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Whole-House
Environmental Logging
By Julian Edgar
In the March 2026 issue, Julian Edgar gave some tips about wiring up a newly built home.
Now we look at the electronic logging and display system he has built to oversee the
thermal behaviour of his house.
Image: the active/passive solar house uses largely conventional current Australian construction. Here it’s shown with AI-added landscaping
– the landscaping won’t be finished for several years. But the house and rainbow are real!
M
any Australian houses are constructed with insufficient regard
to the climate, especially in the use
of low-cost passive solar design
approaches such as orientation, shading and use of internal thermal mass.
After over 45 years of being interested in passive solar house design,
I could finally incorporate as many
energy-efficient aspects as my wife and
I could think of, get planning permission for, and afford!
In addition to obvious aspects such
as insulation in the walls and ceilings and double-glazed thermally broken windows, the house uses a thick,
steel-reinforced concrete slab floor
supported on deep concrete pillars
into the earth.
Don’t many houses have concrete
slab floors? Well, in our case, that floor
acts as an earth-bonded heat stabiliser,
keeping the house cooler in summer (it
acts as a heatsink) and warmer in winter (it acts as a heat source). In passive
solar house design, this temperature-
stabilising function is often called
‘thermal mass’.
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Silicon Chip
To enhance its winter performance,
the house faces north and has extensive window area on this face. Winter
sunshine falls on the slab, warming
it during the daytime and so providing heat at night. To prevent warming
of the slab in summer, the width of
the northern eaves has been carefully
calculated to block the summer sun,
which is higher in the sky, from entering the house.
But it gets a little more complicated
than that, especially in summer.
On a hot summer day, the house is
closed up, with the slab keeping the
interior cool as it acts as a heatsink.
Inevitably, the slab temperature will
rise as heat passes from the house
interior into the slab, so we need a
way of getting rid of that heat. This
is typically done when the temperature drops at night, at which time the
house windows and doors are opened
for cooling breezes.
But what if the night is still – there’s
no wind? That happens occasionally
here, about 100km north of Canberra.
In that case, another aspect of the
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house comes into operation. A large
(600mm diameter) roof ventilator
can be powered by its brushless DC
motor, drawing air out of the roof
space. Connecting the house interior
to this roof space are ceiling vents,
opened by electric actuators. Aided by
the convectional flow (hot air rises),
the house and the slab are cooled by
this airflow.
In winter, there’s another twist.
Software modelling of the house
design showed that, especially during
a cloudy week in winter, the slab
would get too cold to adequately warm
the house. To cater for that, we have
a modern wood stove. In this rural
area, firewood is free, and the stove
has low particulate emissions and
high efficiency.
However, the wood stove is in the
lounge room and so would heat only
that room. To circulate the heat more
widely, a duct connects the lounge to
the other end of the house, with an
automatically controlled fan moving
warm air through the duct. I described
that system, with its custom controller,
siliconchip.com.au
in the August & September 2025 issues
(siliconchip.au/Series/446).
Now, I am sure you’re thinking,
that’s all very nice – but what does
it have to do with electronic logging
and display?
If you think about it, the occupants
must control this scheme. We need to
know when to close the windows and
doors, and when to open them. We
need to know when to open the ceiling vents, and when conventional and
wind-induced airflow through the roof
ventilator is insufficient and the ventilator should be powered up.
Because it is automatic, we don’t
need to know when it would be beneficial to switch on the ducted heat
transfer fan, but we need to adjust
the controller’s temperature difference and hysteresis settings for the
best results.
Many of these ‘house operating’
decisions need to be made in the context of temperatures – temperatures of
the different rooms, of the concrete
slab, of the outside air. Other decisions
need to be made in the context of the
season, the predicted weather over the
next few days, and what weather has
occurred in the previous days.
What the occupants are doing also
matters, eg, cooking over a hot stove,
sitting at a home office typing, or
sleeping.
Initially, I thought of automating all
these decisions – that is, having windows and ceiling vents that opened
themselves, automatically switchingon the roof ventilator, and so on. Then
I realised that such a system would
rapidly become complicated, expensive and hard to maintain over the
life of the house. So, manual control
it is – but with a lot of information at
our fingertips.
That’s where the logging and display system comes in. Showing 25
sensed and calculated parameters,
both numerically and via trend line
graphs, the system allows us to see,
at a glance, what the house is doing,
and what we should do (if anything).
If the house needs to be opened up
for summer night cooling, the time to
do it is when the falling outside temperature graph line crosses the interior temperature line. If, during winter, the slab temperature is getting low,
lighting the wood stove early will help
‘recharge’ it with heat.
The logging and display system will
also show how well the house design
siliconchip.com.au
House passive solar design features
» R5 roof and R2.7 wall insulation; periphery of concrete slab insulated to R2.3
» Thermally broken, double-glazed windows
» 150mm-thick concrete slab floor with two layers of steel mesh reinforcement, multiple deep cast-in pillars
» Rectangular plan-form house with extensive northern glazing, limited eastern
glazing shaded by a 5m deck overhang, very limited western glazing (a door)
shaded by a porch, southern glazing limited in area and illuminated in winter
by a freestanding southern reflector panel (yet to be built)
» Increased interior thermal mass provided by brick feature walls and two
internal 2000L steel water tanks, one at each end of the house, plus a further
375L tank in the home office
» 600mm wind powered roof ventilator working in conjunction with electrically opened ceiling vents
The 2000L water tank in the lounge provides thermal mass, reducing indoor
temperature fluctuations. The main thermal mass is provided by the concrete
floor slab, insulated around its edges. The slab was strengthened to bear the
two-tonne weight of the tank. The tiling wasn’t complete at the time of this
photograph – it was added using AI.
actually works. How hot and cold does
the interior get over a year? How long
does it take for heat to migrate from
the northern, sunshine-exposed side
of the slab to the southern side?
I have many books with descriptions of a home designed with passive-
solar optimisation principles, but
invariably when it comes time to
describe how effective they are, the
analysis gets quite vague! For this
house, I wanted hard data. So, finally,
Australia's electronics magazine
what does the logging and display system comprise?
Logging and display
The logging and display system
comprises the following:
• A wall-mounted, 24-inch (61cm)
LCD touchscreen panel shows realtime data, such as room temperatures
• A logging system records data
and displays it numerically and in
trend graphs
April 2026 57
Two Picolog model 1012 10-bit analog loggers are used. Each logger has 12
single-ended input channels. Off-the-shelf software allows the use of lookup
tables and displayed values calculated from multiple inputs.
The main display is a touchscreen PC in a wall nook located centrally in the
house. The PC allows easy control over the scaling and data
to be displayed. Two USB cables link the PC to the
Picolog loggers in the loft directly above. There is a
repeater display in the home office.
This wall-mounted sensor detects
radiant heat. It uses a thermistor
mounted inside a metal hemisphere.
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The outside sensors for the logging
and display system include wind
speed and UV intensity (bottom
sensors). The top sensors are for a
Davis Vantage Vue weather station
used for calibration and redundancy.
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• Warnings/indicators are shown
when certain actions are suggested
The LCD touchscreen is an HP
24-cr1000a all-in-one desktop computer. This is located in a wall recess
that is easily accessible from all parts
of the house. A repeating LCD screen,
linked by a fibre optic HDMI cable, is
mounted in my home office.
Data is collected and logged by two
Picolog model 1012 10-bit analog loggers. Each logger has 12 input channels
and two digital outputs, giving the system 24 input channels and 4 software-
switchable outputs. The Picolog units
are in a storage loft, directly above the
PC, and are connected to it by two
USB cables. These cables power the
Picologs, and provide data transfer
to the PC.
I selected Picologs because the
UK-based Pico company provides free
logging and display software and has
good technical support. The software
allows quite complex treatments of
input data for calibration (eg, the use
of equations or lookup tables) and has
easily programmable maths functions
to display calculated data.
The lookup tables allow non-linear
or linear sensors to be used, and maths
functions can be used for functions
like averaging the readings from multiple sensors. In addition, data from
each individual input can be averaged over pre-selected time periods,
eg, temperature readings can be averaged over 10-minute periods.
The Picologs use 0-2.5V single-
ended sensor inputs – that is, the
input signal for each channel needs
to be an analog voltage in this range.
A regulated 2.5V output is available
for powering sensors. The amount of
data logged is limited only by the storage available on the PC or, if desired,
the ‘cloud’ – so in practical terms, it
is unlimited.
In my system, nine different environmental factors are displayed:
• indoor temperatures
• indoor relative humidity
• indoor dew point temperature
• indoor carbon dioxide (CO2) level
• indoor radiant temperature
• outdoor temperatures
• outdoor wind speed
• outdoor UV intensity
• the flow volume through the roof
ventilator
Let’s look at each in turn. Most of
the logger inputs are for temperature
sensors. Temperatures are sensed:
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The flow through
the roof-mounted
ventilator is
measured by a
pitot tube (circled)
and differential
pressure sensor.
The logging
software shows this
flow in m3/min,
calculated from the
velocity and crosssectional area.
Electrically opening
ceiling hatches
allow convectional
or forced air
ventilation through
the house.
• Within the concrete slab
• 1150mm above the floor in multiple rooms
• Near the peaks of the cathedral
ceilings in the two main end rooms
• In the two internal water storage
tanks (more on these later)
• Outside in the shade
• In the roof space near the ventilator
In total, 18 temperatures are currently sensed. Not all are displayed by
trend graphs on the PC screen – sometimes, an average of multiple sensors
is calculated and this average then
shown on the graph.
Temperature sensors
A lot of thought was given to using
temperature sensors that would have a
very long life – this ruled out IC-based
sensors, for example (they would be
more susceptible to lightning damage,
especially on the end of long cables).
Should they fail, the in-slab sensors
are not easily replaceable – although,
unfortunately, that has already happened.
The chosen temperature sensor is
a thermistor, a device that changes
resistance with temperature. I used
the Ametherm ACW-016 precision
thermistor exclusively; this has a 50kW
resistance at 25°C and an accuracy of
±0.5°C. In use, I have found them to
be more accurate than their specification suggests.
This sensor is also provided with
a table of resistance versus temperature readings, and this table, when
converted to voltages, can be input
directly into the Picolog software to
give a readout in °C (the change in
resistance is not linear with respect
to temperature).
To allow the thermistor to give a
variable voltage output, a precision
50kW resistor is used to form half of
a voltage divider, with the thermistor
forming the other half.
The ACW-016 thermistor is tiny –
its body is only 1.8mm in diameter,
and its connecting wires are equally
small – just 0.2mm thick! This means
the sensors and their wiring need to
be connected so that no physical stress
is placed on them.
The slab sensors were soldered
directly across the splayed ends of the
cabling conductors, with the connections and thermistors then wrapped
in electrical tape before being placed
in the flexible plastic conduit (truck
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Before the concrete slab was poured, plastic tubes containing thermistors and
their associated cabling were put into place. One of the orange tubes can be
seen here. Unfortunately, nearly every tube allowed water in, wrecking the
thermistors! It happened twice – I nearly cried.
Australia's electronics magazine
April 2026 59
air brake hose) that was buried within
the slab. As events proved, taking this
approach was a mistake – more on
that soon.
The room thermistors were wired
in the same way, with these assemblies then mounted in small, ventilated enclosures that attach to standard Clipsal Classic wall plates, which
visually match the rest of the wallmounted switches.
The thermistors sensing the temperature of water in the internal heat
storage tanks were attached to the outside of the tanks, then insulated from
the room air with polystyrene blocks
shaped to match the tank corrugations.
All temperature sensing connections were made with 1.5mm2
shielded instrumentation cable –
physically strong, with a very low
resistance. Hundreds of metres of
cable were used, all installed during
the house construction.
The Picologs are optionally provided with plug-in PCBs that have
connecting terminal blocks. However,
these terminal blocks were too small to
take the sensor cable conductors, and
physically not strong enough to resist
the pull of 12 cables on each Picolog.
To cater for these aspects, the Picologs were mounted in a 19-inch rack
mount case with the sensor cable
terminations on heavy-duty terminal strips mounted on standoffs. The
required voltage divider resistors were
easily installed between the sensor
inputs and another terminal strip fed
from the 2.5V reference supply.
Other sensors
Indoor relative humidity is detected
by a commercial sensor that has a
linear analog output. However, after
monitoring the relative humidity for
a while, I found it rather useless in
assessing comfort. This is because, if
the temperature is low, one doesn’t
even notice high relative humidity –
it feels ‘muggy’ only when the temperature is also rather high. I therefore added a calculated dew point to
the display.
Dew point is the temperature at
which condensation would occur at a
given combination of relative humidity and air temperature. Because it
takes into account both of these factors,
it is a very good guide to human comfort. If you live in a temperate climate,
dew points above about 15°C start to
feel uncomfortable. As with all human
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comfort parameters, it also depends on
what you’re used to.
The dew point calculation can get
very complex; a simplified equation
is (dew point) = (air temperature) –
(100% – relative humidity) ÷ 5%/°C,
but note that this is more like a ruleof-thumb than a rigorous equation.
For more details on this calculation, including its loss of accuracy at
low relative humidities, refer to “The
relationship between relative humidity and the dew point temperature in
moist air: A simple conversion and
applications” by Mark G. Lawrence in
the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, February 2005 (see
siliconchip.au/link/ac9l).
Carbon dioxide is measured with
a commercial sensor. This parameter is a good proxy for general ventilation flow – CO2 levels should be
kept below about 1000ppm. The normal atmospheric CO2 level is about
400ppm. I found that a correction
was needed – when calibrated with
outside air, the sensor tended to read
too high. This offset was added in the
Picolog software.
Radiant temperature is measured in
one room. Much heat gain in a house
is via radiation through the windows
– direct radiation (sunshine) and indirect radiation (reflected light). Radiant
heat is measured by sensing the temperature inside a small black metal
ball or hemisphere.
I used a Sontay TT-BB radiant heat
sensor, with the assembly disassembled
and the standard thermistor replaced
with an Ametherm ACW-016 thermistor to give directly comparable readings to the other temperature sensors.
The difference between radiant and
normal temperatures can be very small,
so an offset was added to the radiant
thermistor’s output until, in conditions
of no radiant heat gain or loss, it was
precisely the same as air temperature
measured at the same location.
Outside wind speed is detected by
a rotating cup anemometer that has a
0-5V output. This is reduced to 0-2.5V
by a voltage divider. The anemometer
output was calibrated in km/h by comparison with the output of a Davis Vantage Vue weather station anemometer
mounted on the same mast. The table
of wind speed versus output voltage
was then fed into the Picolog software.
UV intensity is detected by a Sonbest SM9568V5 sensor. Sonbest
makes a variety of sunlight sensors,
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including total irradiance and light
level. I decided a UV sensor was the
most practically useful in terms of the
likelihood of getting sunburn; I also
expect this sensor’s output to roughly
correspond with sunlight intensity.
The sensor has a 0-5V output
(converted to 0-2.5V using a voltage
divider); however, the manufacturer’s data sheet doesn’t relate the output voltage to UV Index. The sensor
was calibrated by comparing its output voltage to the Bureau of Meteorology’s locally published UV Index daily
data. This relationship was then converted to a lookup table in the Picolog software.
This conversion probably needs further work – the sensor output doesn’t
seem linear with respect to published
UV levels. In the meantime, I use this
sensor primarily to determine whether
the sun has been out.
The anemometer and UV sensor are
mounted on a 1.4m-tall mast above the
roof at the eastern end of the house.
This end of the house is highest above
the ground, so it is the most exposed
to the wind. The mast is mounted to
the fascia; during construction of the
house frame, this area was strengthened with added pieces of timber.
In addition, the mast carries the sensors for the standalone Davis weather
station, which shows temperature,
wind speed and direction, relative
humidity and rainfall.
The volume of air passing through
the rooftop ventilator is measured by a
pitot tube working with a Dwyer Magnesense II pressure-measuring transmitter. Good-quality aluminium pitot
tubes are now available quite cheaply
from China; these are sold for measuring the airspeed in model aircraft.
The Magnesense transmitter was
bought cheaply in a job lot – an alternative would be to use the pressure-
sensing electronic modules also sold
for model aircraft use.
A pitot tube measures airflow speed
by comparing two pressures sensed by
the pitot. One is the atmospheric pressure, sensed by several tangential ports
around the periphery of the tube. The
other pressure is atmospheric plus the
‘impact’ pressure, sensed at the end
of the pitot that faces into the airflow
direction. The greater the pressure difference between the ports, the higher
the airflow speed.
By measuring airflow speed and
knowing the cross-sectional area of
siliconchip.com.au
House modelling
Many people are unaware that the heating and cooling energy consumption of a house can be modelled before the house
is built. Or, in the case of an existing house, before any improvements are made.
The software, developed under the umbrella of the Australian Government’s NatHERS (Nationwide House Energy Rating Scheme; www.nathers.gov.au) program, provides the energy star ratings that all new houses must meet. However,
rather than being used just to provide an energy rating, the software can also be used to develop a house design to give
reduced energy usage.
Different NatHERS software packages are available, including one that is free. I initially had my house design
NatHERS-modelled by an architect, and then when I saw how fascinating the results were, I took the course myself in
one of the software packages. It is not something you could easily pick up just by trial and error.
The software allows house design changes to be made and then the annual energy usage modelled. For example, in
your climate, what difference occurs from fitting R6 rather than R5 ceiling insulation? What about adding more windows
on the south wall? Changing the northern eave width? A different house orientation? And so on.
Not only will the software show the annual energy consumption for heating and cooling, it can also be configured to
show the modelled interior room temperatures for every hour of every day of a typical year, in every room!
This is another reason I wanted a logging system – to see how well the actual house performance matches the modelled performance. At the time of writing, the performance of the house has been close to the software predictions – if
anything, it is doing better than the software predicted.
Finally, the CSIRO has
released predicted climate data that can be
used in the software, so
the house design can
be modelled for future
climates – a good idea
since the life of a house
is likely to be 50+ years.
The modelled
temperature of my
home office (blue) and
the outside temperature
(red) for a year, with
no heating or cooling
systems operating.
The modelled temperatures for each room at 3pm on July 31st in a typical year. The outside temperature is only 11°C but
most rooms are around 20°C. The lower temperatures are in the rooms with exhaust fans – even when closed by dampers,
lots of heat is still lost through these openings. This is with no heating or cooling systems operating. These two images were
made using the software FirstRate5 (www.fr5.com.au).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
April 2026 61
Climate 80km north of Canberra
These values shown in the table below are averages – the extremes are 43°C and -8°C. Note the high diurnal (night/day)
temperature range in summer, allowing a passive solar home to work very effectively in this climate. Initial results indicate the house will likely not need cooling or heating more than 90% of the time.
Mar
Apr
May
Mean max. 27.9°C 26.4°C 24°C
Month Jan
20°C
15.8°C 12.3°C 11.5°C 13.3°C 16.6°C 19.9°C 22.9°C 26°C
Mean min. 14°C
Feb
13.7°C 11.5°C 7.9°C
the ventilator’s throat, airflow volume
can be calculated and displayed by the
logging system. I use units of cubic
metres per minute. I made a lookup
table to display the data in this form,
with a check of the system’s accuracy
made with a handheld flow meter
positioned temporarily in the throat
of the ventilator.
Thermistor problems
Unfortunately, the in-slab thermistors gave a lot of trouble.
As described, the thermistors were
soldered to the cables, then wrapped
in tape and slid into hard plastic
hoses, with the assemblies placed
before the concrete slab was cast. Well
before the house construction was
finished, the logging system was up
4.6°C
Jun
2.6°C
Jul
1.7°C
Aug
2.4°C
and running – and this soon showed
a problem.
One by one, the in-slab sensors
started to give incorrect readings. The
readings progressively worsened until,
typically, they were showing either
extremely high or low temperatures.
Reluctantly, because I didn’t think
they could be replaced, I pulled out
each cable, complete with sensor,
from its plastic tube. This invariably
revealed that the sensor was wet.
Either the plastic hose had been holed
during the concrete pour, water had
entered the ‘house’ end of the plastic
hose (despite it being sealed with tape)
before the roof was on, or condensation was occurring.
Even a small amount of moisture was enough to cause problems.
Sep
4.7°C
Oct
7.2°C
Nov
9.8°C
Dec
12°C
Furthermore, even when the thermistors were dried, they still gave incorrect readings.
Clearly, new sensors needed to
be installed – and they needed to be
waterproofed. A new thermistor was
soldered across each cable’s conductors, as had been done previously. But
this time, rather than wrap the sensor in tape, I slipped a 50mm length
of vinyl tubing over the sensor, with
about 10mm of the tubing then pushed
over the full diameter of the cable,
where it was a tight fit.
I then used Selleys MarineFlex sealant to fill the open end of the tubing,
completely enveloping the sensor and
its wiring, while adding some more of
the sealant around the vinyl tubing/
cable join.
Screen 1: about three weeks of temperature data in November with no heating or cooling. The outside temperature (green)
varied from 2-32°C, while the indoor temperature (blue) varied from 18-24°C. The concrete slab varied in temperature by
only 1.5°C (red). Four of the slab temperatures (right-hand column) show the fault discussed in the article. The gap in the
recording is due to an electrical storm.
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
With some effort, each sensor could
then be pushed into the plastic hose
sufficiently far that the sensors were
returned to the original positions, deep
inside the concrete slab and in about
the middle of the respective rooms.
Incredibly, this did not fix the
problem! Months later, when the
house walls were complete and so
access to the cables and thermistors
was near-impossible, one by one, the
thermistors began to give the same
trouble. I can only assume that again
water was the culprit – and that it
could infiltrate through the cable
insulation.
Luckily, a single thermistor cable
could still be accessed – it was behind
the plasterboard wall inside a linen
cupboard. I was able to cut a hole in the
plasterboard and fish out the cable. I
then drilled a hole in the concrete slab
inside the cupboard and put in a new
sensor. I covered the wiring junction
with a wall blanking plate.
Should further problems occur, this
sensor is easily replaceable. While it
is not as good as having multiple slab
sensors in different parts of the house,
the sensor is at least located centrally
and so provides a good average slab
temperature.
At the time of writing, three of the
eight original slab sensors remain
working – but I am not hopeful that
will continue!
Trend graphs
The most useful aspect of the logging
and display system is the trend graphs.
Three different vertical axes can be
shown on the one screen, and typically the following approach is used:
• Top axis: inside temperature,
concrete slab temperature, outside
temperature
• Middle axis: wind speed and roof
ventilator flow
• Bottom axis: UV index
Using the touchscreen, the number
of axes shown (one, two or all three)
can be changed, with the graphs automatically resizing to fill the screen.
The horizontal and vertical axes of
each graph are also easily rescaled by
two-finger pinching and expanding
on the touchscreen. This approach
allows many parameters to be shown
in a way that allows understanding at
just a glance.
It’s easy to use the touchscreen to
draw horizontal lines that show the
maximum and minimum of each
graph. The system then calculates and
displays the numerical difference. For
example, seeing the range over which
the slab temperature has varied in the
past month is quick and easy. Screens
1-5 show some of the logged data.
Conclusion
Apart from those darned slab thermistors, the system has worked flawlessly. The ability of the system to
work with any analog sensor with an
output range of at least 0-2.5V means
that sensors for most environmental
parameters are readily available and
can be easily connected.
The touchscreen PC and Picolog
software give intuitive and quick
interaction – selecting data, changing
scales and allowing measurements to
be made. Hard-wiring of the sensors
avoids the need for periodic sensor battery replacement, and is more immune
to interference.
The system wasn’t cheap, but my
major goals of ease of use, accuracy and
clarity have been achieved. Plus, my
wife and I find the results fascinating
– while many of the measurements are
as we expected, significantly, some are
not. So it’s been a great learning experience – on a scale the size of a house!
SC
See overleaf for Screens 3-5
Screen 2: all three axes are visible: the top graph of temperature, middle graph of outside wind speed and roof ventilator
flow, and bottom graph of sunshine intensity. The abrupt dips in the sunshine graph indicate passing clouds.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
April 2026 63
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Screen 3: the red line shows the temperature at shoulder height, and the green
line the temperature at about 5m, near the ceiling. Note how the temperature
at height is greater than normal room temperature during the day, but this
reverses at night due to heat loss into the roof space through the upper walls
and ceiling.
Screen 4: logging over two days shows how slowly the internal temperature of
the concrete slab (red) varies. Here, its greatest rate of change is about 0.5°C per
day. The black line is the temperature of one of the 2000L internal water tanks
that provides quicker-response thermal mass. The tank changes in temperature
a little more rapidly than the concrete slab and is about 1°C warmer.
EACH BLOCK OF ISSUES COSTS $100
NOVEMBER 1987 – DECEMBER 1994
JANUARY 1995 – DECEMBER 1999
JANUARY 2000 – DECEMBER 2004
JANUARY 2005 – DECEMBER 2009
JANUARY 2010 – DECEMBER 2014
JANUARY 2015 – DECEMBER 2019
OUR NEWEST BLOCK COSTS $150
JANUARY 2020 – DECEMBER 2024
OR PAY $650 FOR THEM ALL (+ POST)
WWW.SILICONCHIP.COM.
AU/SHOP/DIGITAL_PDFS
64
Silicon Chip
Screen 5: the air temperature of different rooms in the house over two days.
Even with all the internal doors open, the northern rooms, exposed to spring
sunshine, are 1-3°C warmer than the southern rooms.
siliconchip.com.au
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