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MARCH 2026
ISSN 1030-2662
03
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Contents
Vol.39, No.03
March 2026
16 The History of Intel, Part 2
Part two in our three-part series concentrates on Intel’s technological
developments from the early 1990s to now. They were dominant from the
1990s until the 2010s, but have been struggling a little of late.
By Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
Electronics feature
40 Power Electronics, Part 5
In this series of articles, we explore the principles of power electronics.
This month, we cover the active techniques that help with power factor
correction and electromagnetic interference (EMI) filtering.
By Andrew Levido
Electronic design
60 Self-powered Wireless Switches
Also called ‘kinetic’ switches, these wireless switches do not need an
external power supply, and are commonly found in doorbells and remotecontrolled light switches.
By Tim Blythman
Low-cost electronic modules
66 Wiring up a New Home
Here are some helpful tips and tricks for when you’re building your own
house, or are just interested in the process. There’s a lot to consider with
the wiring, from mains, audio-video, internet and even temperature sensing.
By Julian Edgar
Domestic wiring
28 Solar Panel Protector
This simple design reduces the chance of lightning-induced surge damage
to your solar panels, and provides an ‘ideal’ diode function, so that you can
still get power from the panels even when some are shaded.
By Ian Ashford
Solar power project
49 DCC Booster
The capstone piece for our model train system is this functional DCC
Booster, Reverse Loop Controller, and even a simple Base Station all-in-one.
It functions over a standard voltage range of 8-22V and handles up to 10A.
Part 5 by Tim Blythman
Model train project
71 The Internet Radio, Part 2
Sporting a large touchscreen and running Linux, this Internet Radio uses
your choice of media player software to play audio. Because it uses preassembled modules and 3D-printed parts, you can build it in one afternoon.
By Phil Prosser
Audio/radio project
78 Graphing Thermometer
Taking just a temperature reading isn’t always enough; our low-cost
Graphing Thermometer shows you how the temperature changes over time,
and can take samples from once per second to once every 900 seconds.
By Andrew Woodfield
Measurement project
The History of
Intel
Part 2: page 16
Image source: Konstantin Lanzet
https://w.wiki/GVqx
Power
Electronics
Part 5: Page 40
Tips & Tricks for Wiring
New Homes
Page 66
Page 78
Graphing
Thermometer
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
Mailbag
39
Circuit Notebook
59
Subscriptions
84
Serviceman’s Log
90
Online Shop
92
Vintage Radio
100
Ask Silicon Chip
103
Market Centre
104
Advertising Index
104
Notes & Errata
1. Converting a mousetrap into a helping
hand for soldering SMDs
RCA Radiola 17 (AR-927) by Jim Greig
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2
Silicon Chip
Editorial Viewpoint
Expect more Chinese-brand
computer parts
Thanks to the current AI boom (bubble, in my opinion) consuming vast quantities of DRAM and flash
memory, computer memory and solid-state storage
prices have been climbing sharply.
At the same time, China has been pushing hard
to become more globally competitive in higher-end
semiconductors, including flash memory, DRAM and
eventually CPUs and GPUs.
Seeing how the price of DRAM has risen dramatically over the past year
(in some cases several-fold) and with rumours that storage prices were set
to follow suit, which they now appear to be doing, I decided to buy a bigger
SSD to add to my computer.
Adding a 2TB drive to my existing 1TB drive would have been enough
for now, but I suspected I might regret that decision if I needed more space
later and had to pay significantly more to upgrade. So I decided to go with
a 4TB NVMe drive, at the upper end of what’s currently available at prices
that could still be described as reasonable.
Shopping around, I wasn’t particularly impressed. Even budget “mainstream” brand SSDs were around $550 for a 4TB model that wasn’t especially fast. Better-known brands clustered in the $650–700 range; for example, a Samsung 990 EVO Plus at around $640, or a Lexar NM790 coming in
at about $695.
Then I came across a brand I’d never heard of: Fanxiang. They were offering drives with apparently better performance, a five-year warranty, and a
price just over $400.
I ended up paying $424 including delivery for their 4TB S880E PCIe 4.0
model. It uses TLC flash (generally preferable to QLC), promises around
7.3GB/s read and 6.6GB/s write speeds, and has a quoted endurance of about
3000TB written – more than adequate for my needs. Online reviews and
benchmarks suggest it’s a solid and reliable performer, although, as always,
time will tell.
What struck me was that this may be part of a broader trend. Fanxiang is a
brand of Shenzhen IDCEMS Technology Co Ltd, and it appears their drives
use flash memory from Yangtze Memory Technologies Co (YMTC), China’s
first large-scale commercial 3D NAND flash memory manufacturer.
YMTC was established as part of China’s strategic push to build indigenous semiconductor capability. They are positioning themselves as a competitor to established flash manufacturers such as Samsung, SK Hynix, Kioxia,
Micron and Western Digital, with technology that is increasingly competitive in the global marketplace.
As with any SSD, overall reliability depends not just on the flash itself,
but also on the controller, firmware and validation.
I suspect we’ll start seeing something similar with Chinese-made DDR5
DIMMs as Western brands price themselves out of reach for many home users.
It wouldn’t surprise me if we eventually see Chinese motherboards too. It will
probably be some time before Chinese CPUs and GPUs are genuinely competitive with offerings from Intel, AMD and NVIDIA, but I wouldn’t rule it out.
We’re already seeing many Chinese cars on our roads, and Chinese brand
appliances in our stores. I don’t think computers will be any different. That
means more competition and more affordable hardware, so it may not be
a bad thing. Finally, if you need a new SSD, I suggest you get one sooner
rather than later.
by Nicholas Vinen
Cover background: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-blurry-image-of-a-blue-sky-with-clouds-oKfcrzCM9og
Cover solar panel: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-solar-panel-on-the-ground-HEu4G6tJ0Nw
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Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
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Finally got RGB LED Analog clock working
In response to the letter from Paul Philbrook regarding
his problems with the RGB LED Analog clock PIC in the
October issue, I would like to add my tale of woe. I successfully assembled the kit, and the clock worked well to start
with, but mysteriously stopped completely. I blamed myself
and bought another PIC and fitted it, with the same result.
Silicon Chip kindly sent another PIC at no cost, but this
time the result was totally garbled LED operations. Frustrated, I shelved it for a while. The poor copper tracks for
the PIC were getting very tired.
I had arranged for a wood-turning friend to make up a
very nice surround, so I decided to give it another try, and
got yet another PIC, number four. The clock worked properly this time, and continues to do so – a very “cool” addition to my office, according to a friend.
I’m still not sure if I was responsible for the failure of the
previous three PICs, but I am very pleased with the results
of my persistence.
David Coggins, Beachmere, Qld.
Comment: this is baffling; a few constructors have had
similar problems, but in our experience, PICs are generally very robust. It’s unusual for them to be damaged by
soldering or static discharge. Our guess is that one batch
of chips we bought to make kits and programmed micros
was somehow faulty, but not faulty enough to be picked
up by factory testing or us during programming.
SLA Battery Tester works well
I built the SLA Battery Condition Checker (August 2009:
siliconchip.au/Article/1535) that is available from Jaycar as
a kit (KC5482) and it seems to work correctly first go. The
soldering of the components was straightforward.
I found getting the LED to the right height a little tricky;
I didn’t get it perfect but it’s okay. Also, the knobs seem to
have the white markings around the wrong side, so I will
have to paint some white markings on the right side.
I found the final stage, where you have to push 0.71mm
tinned wire through the battery terminal connectors, very
tricky. I got some Anaconda battery alligator clips with leads
for $15 (if you join up as a member for free) and they can
carry 50A: www.anacondastores.com/BP90238475-black
I tested a 12V small SLA battery and my car battery, and
they both hit the blue LED with the decay of lighting all the
LEDs down to the red. I wonder whether the simple small
carbon pile tester I bought from Bunnings (I/N: 0064863)
is better, though, as it puts more of a load on the battery
and would probably be better for a car battery.
It is interesting; I thought with kits, the soldering would
be the hardest part, but with my hand skills, I find the drilling, wire cutting, hooking up cables and attaching heatsinks a lot harder.
Edward Menzies, Kew, Vic.
Move over, Arduino?
Some aspects of the February 2026 editorial, “Will Arduino
survive?”, struck a chord with me. I am perhaps less worried
that Qualcomm will preside over the demise of the Arduino, as I already see highly credible alternatives sitting in the
wings. The cause of such demise, however, is two-pronged.
Firstly, stemming from uncompromising license agreements, which reduce collaboration & sharing, and increase
costs for companies such as Adafruit. The second is more
insidious. Adding functionality such as AI and so on into
an otherwise simple product makes it harder to use.
I have historically been a Microchip ecosystem user. Not
so much because it is the best; more that I have a history
of projects in this ecosystem, and moving from one project
to the next over generations has been easier than ‘jumping
horses’ to another processor family.
David Coggins’
finished RGB LED
Star with a timber
enclosure.
The SLA Battery
Condition Checker,
which was built from
a Jaycar kit.
4
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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I have found that over the last decade or so that the
microcontrollers are bringing ever more functionality and,
as a consequence, the development system and setup has
become correspondingly more complicated. There are
multiple configurations required just to get a PIC to say
“Hello World”.
On the positive side of the ledger, once you have been
through the pain, there is an amazingly rich suite of capabilities that your project can access. This complexity is
quite challenging if you are learning or an occasional user,
which leads to the point that I draw from your editorial.
The Raspberry Pi family is well known for its larger Pi
3, 4 and 5, and its high-level OSes. The new Pico 2, as you
reviewed recently, has been integrated into Visual Studio.
Setting this up is incredibly simple and it just works.
The downside is that it is less obvious how a program can
get into the microcontroller and peripherals at the register
level. The upsides I found recently were truly surprising:
• There are drivers for most things you would want to
do and they just work.
• The environment integration to the Pico 2 is good at
a high level. Connection is via USB with the simplicity
this brings. (You want your Pi-based project to talk to the
PC? It is right there to printf() straight to your serial port!)
• The Visual Studio environment includes a range of AI
agents that can assist with coding and debugging. While
I see downsides with some of these, the positives far outweigh the problems. Just never allow the AI agents free rein
to change slabs of code unless you check first!
The upshot is that adding functions and complexity to
a proven recipe will undermine the foundations of its success. However, the new version of the ‘old kid on the block’
has real potential to step in from left stage. The world is
always changing, of course, and I see this confluence of
development environment and hardware platform changes
being a very positive one.
Phil Prosser, Prospect, SA.
Comment: we think you are right that Raspberry Pi Picos
are the ‘new Arduino’. They are certainly cheap, flexible
and powerful. You can also program them using the Arduino IDE. PICs are complex enough to do a lot of things well
without being so complex they are cumbersome. One thing
they do very well is ease of flashing (eg, no fuse bits to program separately).
Power Electronics series is covering Active PFC
A big thank-you to Andrew Levido. Like Paul Howson
(Mailbag, February 2026, page 6), I too am thoroughly
enjoying his engineering theory articles (the “Power Electronics” series; siliconchip.au/Series/452), with the different ways of looking at switch-mode power supply (SMPS)
circuit operation.
A few years ago, I became determined to repair a computer SMPS, expecting to find a bridge rectifier input circuit with a 220-240V/110-120V AC switch, followed by a
couple of 470μF filter capacitors needed to provide about
340V DC for the main switching circuit.
Instead, there was a bridge rectifier and boost converter
followed by a single 270μF/450V electrolytic cap charged
to a regulated 380V DC for the main switching circuit. The
boost converter seemed to be controlled to provide a steady
load to the mains input (over the full mains cycle), while
at the same time regulating its output to 380V DC.
8
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A 230V/115V switch is no longer needed because of the
now wider input voltage range. I’m guessing this meant
that the design presented a good power factor and neatly
reduced production cost because the same energy could
now be stored in a smaller electrolytic capacitor running at
a fixed 380V DC instead of being limited to approximately
340V DC in the older design by the bridge rectifier output.
Dave McIntosh, Eastwood, NSW.
Comment: this type of active power factor correction
(Active PFC) is covered in Power Electronics part 5, starting on page 40 of this issue.
The end of free to air television?
When digital television first started, we had good reception on our original combination UHF/VHF aerial and
cabling. When it was time to upgrade, I bought a cheap
digital aerial on eBay and installed new cables. That was
alright for several years, but then the reception got worse.
Early last year, I did some research and bought a
good-quality digital aerial that was specifically matched
to the transmission frequencies we have here. At first, we
had good reception on all channels, but with occasional
slight corruption on Channel 7. Still, it was quite watchable.
Late last year, things got a lot worse. ABC went off the
air completely, then Channel 10 went off the air through
the day, but usually came good at night. Then Channel 7
was corrupted through the day, but sometimes came good
at night. SBS was on air sometimes through the day and
sometimes good at night. Just recently, Channel 10, Channel 7 and SBS have gone off the air completely.
Through all this mess, Channel 9 is still on the air almost
all the time, but has occasional slight corruption. This time
last year, we had 40 TV channels, including some duplicates. As of now, we have six TV channels, including one
duplicate. All the channels we can currently get are related
to Channel 9.
On checking the tuner information, Channel 9 has 99%
signal strength and 99% signal quality. The other channels
have 99% signal strength and 0% signal quality.
I don’t know what these TV stations are doing, but clearly,
they have major problems with their transmission. A friend
in a nearby town said that they no longer have any free-toair television reception at all. I have been asking around
the neighbourhood here, and I get the same answer from
everyone: that they only watch TV online and not on air
due to all the reception problems.
It is not only here, either. Recently, I was talking to someone from Melbourne who stayed at a motel in Nambour, and
he said that all the channels were corrupted there. Early
last year, we were at our daughter’s place in Brisbane and
I noticed that Channel 9 was corrupted. She said Channel
7 was often a lot worse.
A friend in town now has no TV reception at all. They
are a little further from the transmitter than we are.
For the last couple of months, we’ve been watching our
regular shows through online catch-up TV streaming. It’s
the only way we get to watch them. I use a Linux laptop
through HDMI to our old TV and it works well.
If Channel 9 can be on the air almost all the time with
infrequent corruption on most days, what are the other
channels doing that they can’t keep up with Channel 9,
and have gone off the air completely?
SC
Bruce Pierson, Dundathu, Qld.
10
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Australia's electronics magazine
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Image source: https://pixabay.com/photos/intel-8008-cpu-old-processor-3259173/
T
o r y of
t
s
i
h
he
intel
Pa
rt 2
b y D r D avid Mad
K3D
V
,
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o
d is
SM
The second in a three-part series on Intel, this article concentrates on its
projects, manufacturing and events from the early 1990s to the present. Last
month’s article gave an overview of the company and its background, plus a
detailed history from its early days to the late 1980s.
T
his article will end with the events
of the last few years from Intel’s
perspective; the third and final
part in this series next month will then
look at the technologies they are currently pursuing and what the future
may hold.
1990s: PC market dominance
In the 1990s, Intel became a household name, partly because of the popularisation of the PC and the “Intel
Inside” marketing campaign that
started in 1991. This led it to become
the most valuable semiconductor company in the world by 1995.
“Intel Inside” brought, for the first
time, brand recognition of computer
components such as CPUs in consumer devices. It also brought billions
of dollars of licensing revenue to Intel;
Intel co-marketed their CPUs with
manufacturers, leading to advantages
for both parties.
This strategy was quite different
from competitors AMD and Cyrix,
whose combined market share was
around 10-15%, while Intel held
The rise and fall of Intel’s value
Intel became the most valuable semiconductor company in the world around
1995, a position it held until around 2011. After that, it experienced a period of
decline, and was surpassed in sales by Samsung by 2017. It has since been
surpassed in market capitalisation by companies like TSMC and NVIDIA. By
2022, AMD surpassed Intel’s market capitalisation.
Presently, Intel has just under half of the desktop CPU market, with the other
half being AMD CPUs. AMD has been gaining significant market share of late
and has made major inroads in the server market, currently capturing around
25% of the highly profitable server CPU market.
So Intel remains dominant for the moment, but AMD is now undoubtedly a
serious competitive threat to them.
16
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
around 90% of the market. Nowadays
Intel doesn’t have as much of a hold
on the market (see the panel below).
The Pentium
The original Pentium processor was
released in 1993 as a successor to the
80486 and remained the brand name
for Intel’s premium processors until
the Core lineup was introduced in
2006. After that, it became the brand
for a more affordable line of processors
than the Core series.
These later Pentiums were discontinued in 2023 and had little commonality with the original except for using
the x86 instruction set.
The original 1993-2001 Pentium
contained 3.1-4.5 million transistors
depending on the variant. It was the
first Intel processor to use a ‘superscalar architecture’, a form of processor
parallelism in which more than one
instruction can be executed per clock
cycle – see Figs.24 & 25. This is done
by simultaneously sending instructions to more than one execution unit
within the processor.
siliconchip.com.au
Intel Pentium Microarchitecture
Branch
Target
Buffer
Prefetch
Address
TLB
Fig.24: the Intel Pentium
architecture. Source: https://w.wiki/
GZY5 (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Code Cache
8 KBytes
Branch Verif.
& Target Addr.
256
64 Bit
Data Bus
32 Bit
Address
Bus
Instruction
Pointer
Control
ROM
Instruction Decode
Control Unit
Address
Generate
(U Pipeline)
Page
Unit
Bus
Unit
Prefetch Buffers
Floating Point Unit
Address
Generate
(Y Pipeline)
Control
Register File
Control
Integer Register File
ALU
(U Pipeline)
64
64 Bit
Data
Bus
Barrel Shifter
32
32 Bit
Address
Bus
Superscalar vs pipelining
Early processors handled instructions one at a time. Each instruction
went through a sequence of steps:
fetch the instruction from memory,
decode it, fetch any required data,
execute the operation and write the
result back to registers or memory.
The CPU could not begin the next
siliconchip.com.au
Divide
32
32
32
32
This is different from the ‘pipelining’ of the 80386 and 80486, which
split instructions up into stages so that
they could be executed sequentially
without interruption.
A later variant of the Pentium added
the MMX (Multimedia eXtensions)
instruction set, which introduced
SIMD (single instruction, multiple
data) operations on packed integers
– see Fig.26.
While not capable of accelerating
floating-point workloads, MMX significantly improved performance in
multimedia and DSP tasks such as
image filtering, video decoding (DCT/
IDCT), audio processing and colour
space conversion.
Add
ALU
(Y Pipeline)
TLB
Data Cache
32
8 KBytes
32
instruction until this entire sequence
finished.
Any delay – for example, waiting
for a value to arrive from memory –
stalled the whole processor.
Pipelining improves this by dividing the instruction cycle into separate stages. Different instructions
can occupy different pipeline stages
at the same time; while one instruction is being decoded, another can be
fetched, another executed and so on. A
non-pipelined CPU must wait for one
stage to finish before the next can start,
so it can’t take advantage of hardware
parallelism like a pipelined CPU can.
Once the pipeline is full, the processor can complete one instruction
per clock cycle, improving throughput dramatically.
A stall in one stage (eg, waiting for
memory) still prevents earlier stages
from progressing, so the pipeline as
a whole does pause. However, stages
ahead of the stall continue to finish
their in-flight instructions, and the
pipeline quickly resumes once the
data arrives.
Australia's electronics magazine
80
80
Multiply
Fig.25: an original Intel Pentium die.
Source: https://w.wiki/GZY3 (CC BYSA 3.0)
Fig.26: a 166MHz Pentium MMX CPU
de-lidded. Source: https://w.wiki/GZY6
March 2026 17
The more advanced ‘superscalar
architecture’ allows multiple instructions (or parts of different instructions)
to be issued and executed in parallel
in the same clock cycle using multiple execution units. A superscalar
CPU usually has multiple ALUs (arithmetic logic units) and FPUs (floating
point units).
In more advanced CPUs with out-oforder execution, independent instructions can continue to execute while
the pipeline waits for data, allowing
multiple kinds of delays to overlap.
Pentium Pro
The Pentium Pro was introduced
in 1995 and discontinued in 1998. It
was the first processor with Intel’s P6
microarchitecture. It had “Dynamic
Execution”, which permitted outof-order execution of instructions to
improve efficiency, and an integrated
L2 cache on a separate die within the
processor module connected via a dedicated 64-bit bus so it could operate at
the same speed as the processor.
L1 cache is the fastest memory available to the process other than registers. It is usually small, integrated
into the die (starting with the 80486)
and mainly holds instruction code for
frequently executed routines and data
that’s frequently accessed.
L2 cache is a slower, larger memory
that’s still significantly faster than
main memory and is used to hold
instructions and data that still need to
be accessed frequently, but will not fit
within the smaller L1 cache. Later processors introduced another layer, L3
cache, again larger and slower (but still
faster than accessing main memory).
The Pentium Pro/P6 also allowed
speculative execution, allowing it to
predict the result of instructions ahead
of time, to keep the processor pipeline full. It was mainly aimed at servers and high-end workstations. It had
5.5 million transistors and was made
on a 500nm process, later reduced to
350nm.
Pentium II
The Pentium II was introduced in
1997. It kept the P6 microarchitecture
introduced on the Pentium Pro but
added the MMX instruction set that
was missing from the Pentium Pro. It
had 7.5 million transistors, except for
the Dixon variant with a large amount
of cache, which had 27.4 million. It
was built on a 350nm process, reduced
to 180nm for later variants.
Its distinguishing features were its
availability in a Slot 1 cartridge format, with L2 cache on a separate circuit board within the cartridge – see
Fig.27. Unlike the Pentium Pro, that
cache only ran at half the speed of
the CPU to reduce cost (and because
the Pentium II was generally clocked
higher than the Pentium Pro).
StrongARM
As mentioned last month, Intel
acquired the rights to DEC’s Strong
ARM processor design as part of a legal
settlement. They produced it from
1997 until 2004. It was the predecessor to Intel’s XScale chip (2002-2006).
Celeron
As with many Intel product names,
Celeron can be confusing. It was originally introduced in 1998 as a lower-
cost Pentium II with no L2 cache (early
variants were famously overclockable as it was usually the L2 cache
that limited the processor speed). It
was discontinued in 2002. After that,
there was a variety of different Celerons, unrelated to the original and ultimately discontinued in 2023.
There are too many versions of Celerons to list. However, throughout their
history, virtually all Celeron-branded
processors have been lower-
c ost,
performance-
reduced derivatives of
existing Core or Pentium chips.
The reduced performance was typically achieved through some combination of smaller caches, disabled cores
or core modules, locked multipliers,
lower clock speeds, missing features
(hyperthreading, Turbo Boost, AVX
instructions), or the use of partially
defective dies that could not meet the
speed of the full-specification parts.
Hyperthreading is a now-common
technique where one CPU core can
execute two different instruction
streams, sharing the same execution
units but with separate pipelines. Its
main benefit is that if one hyperthread
pipeline stalls due to something like a
memory access, the other can continue
running, meaning the execution units
don’t sit idle. It was introduced with
the Pentium 4.
Fig.27: a Pentium II CPU installed on a motherboard. Note how it’s plugged in
vertically to an edge connector, similar to the RAM sticks near it, and how the
heatsink and fan are integrated into the package. Source: https://w.wiki/GZXv
(CC BY 4.0)
Xeon
Xeon processors were introduced
in 1998, intended for high-end non-
consumer workstation, server and
embedded applications. They are
based on the same cores as desktop
CPUs, but have added specialised features such as support for ECC (error
correction code) memory, higher numbers of cores, more PCI Express I/O
lanes, support for larger amounts of
RAM and larger cache memory.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
18
Silicon Chip
They may also have extra RAS (reliability, availability and serviceability)
features, enabling them to continue to
execute code when a normal processor cannot. Xeon motherboards were
also usually available with more sockets than regular desktop CPU boards.
They are not generally suitable for
desktop or consumer use as they have
lower clock rates (due to an emphasis
on parallel tasking); they usually lack
an onboard GPU (graphics processing
unit); and earlier Xeon models lacked
support for overclocking.
Nevertheless, they were used by
some desktop users for some specialised tasks such as video editing. Just as
Celerons are lower-tier versions of standard processors, Xeons are almost the
opposite, being more-or-less higher-tier
versions of the standard processors.
Xeons are still in production using the
latest cores. Like Celerons, there are too
many models to list here.
Fig.28: a Pentium III without its heatsink; this generation of processor came on
a plug-in card with separate cache SRAM chips (on the right of the core die).
Source: https://w.wiki/GZXt (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Pentium III
The Pentium III was introduced in
1999 and discontinued in 2004 – see
Figs.28 & 29. It introduced Streaming SIMD Extensions (SSE), similar to MMX but supporting parallel
floating-point operations, leading to
a major boost in multimedia performance. A controversial feature that was
introduced was a processor serial number, which raised privacy concerns.
There were several Pentium III
variants with significant differences
between them, such as cache size,
manufacturing process and clock
speed. Katmai used a 250nm process
node with 9.5 million transistors; Coppermine, 180nm with 28 million transistors; and Tualatin, 130nm with 47
million transistors.
2000s: Higher clock speeds,
challenges, diversification
During the 2000s, Intel had an obsession with improving performance via
higher and higher clock speeds. This
led to the “NetBurst” microarchitecture, which proved challenging and
was ultimately unsuccessful, giving
way to the entirely new Core microarchitecture.
During the early 2000s, the Pentium
4 dominated in PCs, but there was
strong price and performance competition from the AMD Athlon series.
The Intel Core 2 Duo was introduced in
2006, becoming a performance leader.
However, in 2005, AMD introduced
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.29: a die photo of the Pentium III showing the significantly increased
complexity you’d expect with around 40 million transistors. Source: https://w.
wiki/GZXu
the Athlon 64 X2 dual-core processor,
which provided significant competition. Intel faced several major challenges during the 2000s:
● a series of antitrust actions alleging anti-competitive behaviour toward
Australia's electronics magazine
AMD, including a US lawsuit and fine
(active from 2005 to 2010), and similar cases in Japan (2005), South Korea
(2008) and the EU (2009, which was
partly annulled much later)
● the need to abandon the failing
March 2026 19
Table 4: Intel CEOs over the years
CEO
Years as CEO
Background
Robert Noyce
1968-1975
Co-founder of Intel; one of the pioneers of the IC.
Gordon Moore
1975-1987
Co-founder of Intel and author of “Moore’s Law”; steered Intel during its early growth
and increasing focus on microprocessors.
Andrew Grove
1987-1998
An early employee (3rd at Intel), previously company president; he led Intel through a
transition away from memory (DRAM) toward microprocessors.
Craig R. Barrett 1998-2005
Under his leadership, Intel invested heavily in manufacturing and scaling production,
maintaining its manufacturing lead.
Paul Otellini
2005-2013
First Intel CEO without an engineering background (he held an MBA). Oversaw an era
of diversification, cloud and data-centre growth, and global expansion.
Brian Krzanich
2013-2018
Long-time Intel engineer who rose through the ranks; became CEO to steer Intel
through manufacturing and product-strategy challenges.
Bob Swan
2019-2021
Former CFO (and interim CEO) of Intel. Led the company during a turbulent transitional
period, trying to stabilise finances amid increasing competition and industry shifts.
Pat Gelsinger
2021-2024
Veteran of Intel (early engineer and later CTO), returning to lead an attempted
turnaround. Focused on reviving manufacturing strength, launching new fabs, and
repositioning Intel for cloud, AI, and foundry services.
Lip-Bu Tan
2025-present
BSc in Physics, Master’s in Nuclear Engineering and an MBA. Former CEO of Cadence.
Faces major challenges after Intel has lost significant market share and market cap.
NetBurst architecture (described below)
and replace it with the new Core architecture
● the impact of the 2008 global
financial crisis
Intel made some attempts at diversification during this period, such as
the development of XScale ARM processors and the Atom processor. However, Intel misjudged the mobile market in the 2000s and failed in these
areas. They saw low profit margins on
mobile processors and chose to focus
on x86 processors instead. They also
sold XScale just before the mobile
device boom – a critical error.
Intel even declined Apple’s invitation to manufacture iPhone chips
(around 2005/2006), as then-CEO Paul
Otellini did not believe the iPhone
would be a very high-volume business
(oops!). ARM, which was specifically
designed for low power consumption,
became the dominant architecture for
mobile devices, and Intel missed the
opportunity.
chips available at the time were also
more integrated than XScale.
Intel went on to focus on its own
line of x86-based Atom low-power
processors for mobile applications.
For hardware vendors already partnered with Intel or using its reference
designs, there was no need for another
chip in their ecosystem. Since the sale
of XScale, Intel’s acquisitions have
been mostly in the area of software,
not hardware; they have remained
focused on a more limited ecosystem.
Pentium 4
The Pentium 4, introduced in
November 2000 and discontinued
in August 2008, was based on the
Fig.30: an early (Northwood) Pentium 4 CPU die. Source: https://w.wiki/GZXr
XScale
XScale was a range of ARM-based
processors for mobile and other lower-
power applications developed by Intel
and released in 2002. They sold the
chip division that produced them to
Marvell Technology Group in 2006.
According to a former Intel engineer
commenting on Quora Digest, Intel
saw itself as an x86 company and was
not interested in selling other chips
for the mobile market. Other mobile
20
Silicon Chip
entirely new NetBurst microarchitecture (internal codename P68) – see
Fig.30. NetBurst succeeded the longlived P6 microarchitecture used in the
Pentium Pro, Pentium II, Pentium III
and early Xeon processors.
NetBurst was explicitly designed for
extremely high clock speeds through
a 20-stage (later 31-stage) hyper-pipeline, a double-pumped (running at
twice processor speed) ALU, hyperthreading, an Execution Trace Cache
that stored decoded micro-operations
instead of re-fetching and re-decoding
instructions, and a replay system to
recover from mispredicted branches.
Despite these innovations, Intel
never reached its internal target of
Fig.31: a Pentium 4 (Prescott)
CPU. This is the final version
of the Pentium 4, with x86-64
support, before they were
discontinued in favour of
the Core series of processors.
Source: https://w.wiki/GZX$
(CC BY-SA 4.0)
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
10GHz; the fastest shipping Pentium
4 topped out at 3.8GHz (with a brief
4.0GHz Extreme Edition), limited primarily by power consumption and
heat dissipation.
As a result, Intel abandoned NetBurst in 2006 and introduced the
power-efficient Core microarchitecture, which formed the basis of all
subsequent mainstream Intel CPUs.
Depending on the variant, the Pentium
4 contained between 42 million (Willamette) and 169 million (Prescott-2M)
transistors, and was manufactured on
process nodes ranging from 180nm
down to 65nm – see Fig.31.
Itanium
Itanium was a family of high-end
64-bit processors from Intel using the
IA-64 instruction set, completely unrelated to x86-64. It was aimed at enterprise servers and high-performance
systems. See Figs.32, 33 & 34.
The design originated at HP as a successor to PA-RISC, based on a new paradigm called EPIC (Explicitly Parallel
Instruction Computing). Intel joined
the project, and the first Itanium was
launched in 2001, with the line eventually discontinued in 2020.
Itanium’s defining feature was its
VLIW-inspired execution model.
Instead of relying on complex hardware to discover instruction-level
parallelism at runtime, the compiler
packed multiple instructions into
‘bundles’, indicating which operations
could execute in parallel.
In theory, this simplified the processor and allowed many execution
units to stay busy. In practice, it proved
extremely difficult for compilers to
keep such a wide machine fed, and
performance often collapsed unless
code was tuned for a specific Itanium
generation. This inflexibility earned
the architecture the unfortunate nickname “Itanic”.
Itanium could run x86 applications
through hardware and later software
emulation layers, but performance was
poor. Ultimately, the architecture failed
because of its lack of x86 compatibility,
inconsistent real-world performance,
compiler complexity, high cost, limited
software support and (crucially) the
emergence of AMD’s x86-compatible
64-bit Opteron processors.
Intel eventually adopted AMD’s
AMD64/x86-64 extension, starting
with the Pentium 4 “Prescott” in 2004,
then fully committed to it with the
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.32: an Intel Itanium ES processor module viewed from the pin side. Source:
https://w.wiki/GZXx (CC BY 3.0)
Fig.33: an Intel Itanium 2 CPU module. Source: https://w.wiki/GZXy
Fig.34: an Itanium die shot. Source: der8auer (https://der8auer.com)
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 21
Core 2 series (and every mainstream
processor since), effectively sealing
Itanium’s fate.
Other Pentiums
The Pentium 4 was succeeded by
the Pentium M (“mobile”; 2003-2006)
with 77-140 million transistors on a
130nm-90nm process node, and the
Pentium D (“desktop”; 2005-2010)
with 230-376 million transistors on a
90nm to 65nm process node. The Pentium D was a dual-core design.
The Pentium M did not use the NetBurst microarchitecture, it was based
on a modified version of the Pentium
III’s P6 microarchitecture with optimised power consumption. It formed
the basis of the later Core microachitecture.
The D was a performance-orientated
dual-core model that did use the NetBurst microarchitecture. The D was
Intel’s first mainstream dual-core processor. It was not efficient because the
cores could only communicate with
each other via the motherboard’s relatively slow front-side bus.
To add to the confusion, the Pentium
Dual-Core (2006-2010) was based on
the more efficient Core microarchitecture. It had 376-410 million transistors
and was made with a process node of
65nm or 45nm, depending upon the
variant.
Also, a revision of the Atom design
is used as the “E-cores” in Intel’s
hybrid architecture in their 12th
and 13th generation Core processor,
E-cores are used for task where performance isn’t critical, like handling networking, storage and housekeeping.
Core
Intel Core brand processors were
introduced in January 2006. Yonah
was the code name for the first generation of Core processors that replaced
Atom
the NetBurst microarchitecture. It was
The Atom line of x86 energy- based on an enhanced Pentium M (P6)
efficient mobile processors debuted in microarchitecture and was initially
2008, derived from the Pentium M. It 32-bit only.
was discontinued in 2016 due to loss
The Yonah core was used in the
of competitiveness against ARM-based Core Solo and the Core Duo dual-core
processors. However, embedded and mobile products, with 151 million
industrial versions of Atom processors transistors on a 65nm process. It was
are still available, such as the Atom discontinued in 2008.
x7000E or Processor N-series.
Core 2
Core 2 was released in July 2006 as
the successor to Core. Core 2 used a
brand new Core microarchitecture and
had 64-bit support (x86-64, compatible
with AMD64). Core 2 was released as
Core 2, Core 2 Solo (2007), Core 2 Duo
and Core 2 Quad models depending
upon the number of cores.
There were also Core 2 Extreme
models for enthusiasts, with a higher
clock frequency and an unlocked clock
multiplier.
Fig.36: the modular structure of a Nehalem (1st Gen Core) processor split into
“core” and “uncore” sections. Original Source: https://pcper.com/2008/08/
inside-the-nehalem-intels-new-core-i7-microarchitecture/2/
Core i3/i5/i7/i9 –
new naming conventions
In November 2008, Intel introduced
a new microarchitecture for Core series
called Nehalem (see Fig.35), later discontinued in 2010. It came with a new
naming scheme, with so-called Tiers
representing performance levels. i3
was entry level, i5 mid-range and i7
high-end. i9 was added in 2017 as the
top tier.
Intel also introduced a new term
referring to the Generation of a processor, which corresponds to improvements in performance, power efficiency, features supported and
microarchitecture – see Table 5 and
Fig.37 overleaf. We discuss the various
generations of Intel Core processors in
the next section.
Nehalem processors used a 45nm
process node and had 731-2300 million transistors, depending upon the
model. These were called 1st Generation Core processors. A “die shrink”
improvement to 32nm was made with
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siliconchip.com.au
Fig.35: a die shot of a typical Nehalem (1st Gen Core) processor showing various
functional elements. Source: https://bjorn3d.com/2008/11/intel-core-i7-920nehalem/
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Silicon Chip
Table 5 – Intel Core processor generations
Generation
Brand
Intro Year
Codename
Notable features
Original Core
Core Solo/Duo
2006
Yonah (mobile)
First mobile series, one or two cores
Core 2
Core 2 Solo/
Duo/Quad/
Extreme
2006
Conroe, Kentsfield,
Wolfdale, Yorkfield,
Merom, Penryn
First 64-bit support and up to four cores.
1st Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2008-2010
Lynnfield, Bloomfield,
Clarkdale, Arrandale
Nehalem microarchitecture, integrated
memory controller.
2nd Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2011
Sandy Bridge
Sandy Bridge microarchitecture, new
AVX instructions, integrated GPU.
3rd Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2012
Ivy Bridge
Ivy Bridge microarchitecture, 22nm
process.
4th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2013
Haswell, Broadwell-Y
Haswell microarchitecture, improved
power efficiency.
5th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2014
Broadwell
Broadwell microarchitecture, 14nm
process.
6th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2015
Skylake
Skylake microarchitecture, support for
DDR4 memory.
7th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2016
Kaby Lake
Kaby Lake microarchitecture and first
to abandon tick-tock model. Improved
performance and efficiency.
8th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7
2017
Coffee Lake, Kaby Lake
Refresh, Whiskey Lake,
Amber Lake, Cannon
Lake
Various microarchitectures, increased
core counts.
9th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2018
Coffee Lake Refresh
Coffee Lake refresh.
10th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2020
Comet Lake, Ice Lake,
Amber Lake Refresh
Various microarchitectures.
11th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2021 (desktop), Rocket Lake (desktop)
2020 (mobile)
Tiger Lake (mobile)
Introduced PCIe 4.0 support.
12th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2021
Alder Lake
Hybrid architecture (P-cores + E-cores),
Intel 7 process, DDR5 & PCIe 5.0
support. First widely adopted hybrid big.
LITTLE architecture. Intel 7 node.
13th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2022
Raptor Lake
Raptor Lake microarchitecture (refresh
of Alder Lake). Intel 7 node.
14th Gen
Core i3/i5/i7/i9
2023
Raptor Lake refresh
Last generation to use “Core I” branding.
Intel 7 node.
Series 1
Core 3/5/7, Core
Ultra 5/7/9
2023 (mobile)
Meteor Lake
New naming scheme and process,
launched in 2023 for mobile with NPU
(Neural Processing Unit) for AI. First
mainstream Intel processor with chipletbased design.
Series 2
Core 3/5/7, Core
Ultra 5/7/9
2024-2025
Arrow Lake, Lunar Lake
Includes Arrow Lake desktop (2024) and
mobile HX/H/U series (early 2025). First
Intel desktop processor with chipletbased design.
Series 3
Core Ultra 300
Early 2026
series (expected)
Panther Lake (mobile)
Expected to use the 18A process node
the Westmere microarchitecture.
Features of this series include a
modular and scalable design with separate ‘core units’, which were the execution units and L1 and L2 caches, and
‘uncore units’, which were anything
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else. Uncore included the L3 cache,
the integrated memory controller
(IMC) and I/O (USB, PCI Express etc)
– see Fig.36.
The traditional front-side bus was
also replaced with the QuickPath
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Interconnect (QPI) for faster communication between processors in multisocket systems, as well as with the rest
of the system.
Hyperthreading was reintroduced,
and Turbo Mode allowed automatic
March 2026 23
Fig.37: the naming scheme for Intel Core processors. SKU is the “stock-keeping
unit” or the specific model number. Source: www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/
support/articles/000032203/processors/intel-core-processors.html
Fig.38: Nehalem’s (1st Gen Core) processor design showing modular building
block concept. Source: www.techradar.com/news/computing-components/
processors/intel-s-nehalem-is-a-multi-threading-monster-268687
Intel’s tick-tock model
overclocking. Other features included
a new SSE 4.2 supplemental x86
instruction set.
Nehalem’s modular design allowed
Intel to scale the same core building
blocks across a wide variety of market segments, from dual-core mobile
parts to eight-core server Xeons, simply by adding or subtracting tiles on
a die. This modular design should
not be confused with the later hybrid
architecture.
In the Nehalem generation (20082010), all mainstream Core i3/i5/i7
processors were monolithic single-die
designs; only certain rare high-end
desktop and server processors used
a multi-chip module that had a CPU
die with an optional separate graphics chip.
Regardless of whether the final package contained one or two dies, the CPU
itself remained a single monolithic die
built from individual building blocks
(see Fig.38).
The general idea of a modular and
scalable design, whether implemented
on one monolithic die or multiple dies
(later called ‘tiles’ internally and ‘chiplets’ in the broader industry), has been
used on all Intel Core processors since
Nehalem in 2008.
True chiplet (multi-die) consumer
Core processors only appeared with
Meteor Lake (14th Gen, 2023) and
became the standard from Arrow Lake/
Lunar Lake (2024-2025) onward.
2010s: 10nm failures,
competitors catch up
Fig.39: the tick-tock model for all Intel processors of the 2009-2016 era. The
even years bring a new process technology, while the odd years bring a new
microarchitecture.
The 2010s were characterised by
Intel’s repeated delays in moving
beyond the 14nm node (introduced
with Broadwell, 2014), which saw
six generations and six years or more
of Core on the same basic node with
no reduction in feature size. To be
fair, it wasn’t the exact same node
used year after year; they did make
improvements (leading to the famous
14nm++++ process).
Intel failed to reach the 10nm mode
in a timely manner (targeted for 2016)
and suffered from delays, poor process yields and technical flaws that
allowed competitors like AMD, Apple
Silicon and ARM to take market share,
including in the laptop, desktop and
server markets.
The tick-tock model was finally
abandoned (see panel). Intel’s stock
price stagnated, and the decade ended
with Intel no longer the unquestioned
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siliconchip.com.au
Tick-tock was a development model introduced by Intel in 2007 and abandoned
in 2016. It was a model that alternated in two-year cycles between reducing
the process size (the “ticks”) and improving the microarchitecture of the processor (the “tocks”). Both had the objective of performance boosts via lower
power consumption, higher component density and reduced costs.
Fig.39 shows how the tick-tock model progressed during most of its period
of operation. Note the new microarchitecture (tocks) shown in green and the
new process size shown in blue (ticks). The tick-tock model was abandoned
because it was no longer economically feasible to keep shrinking dies, ie,
Moore’s Law ceased to apply around 2016.
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Silicon Chip
performance and technology leader.
Some say Intel’s “10nm disaster”
was the result of a technology roadmap
that was simply too ambitious. Instead
of making a modest shrink from 14nm,
Intel attempted to jump directly to a
very high-density process with multiple cutting-edge features introduced
all at once.
Among these were self-aligned
quadruple patterning (SAQP) for
extremely fine metal pitches, contact-
over-active-gate (COAG), and the use
of cobalt for selected interconnect
layers. Each of these was challenging
on its own; together, they created a
process that was extremely difficult
to manufacture at acceptable yields.
Compounding these difficulties was
Intel’s strategic decision to delay the
adoption of EUV (extreme ultraviolet)
lithography. The company believed
that 193nm immersion lithography,
extended through increasingly complicated multi-patterning steps, would
remain viable.
Meanwhile, competitors such as
TSMC and Samsung embraced EUV
earlier, simplifying several steps in
their 7nm processes. This allowed
them to avoid much of the patterning
complexity Intel was struggling with,
and to achieve usable yields sooner.
Another problem was that Intel set
extremely aggressive density targets
for 10nm: roughly a 2.7× improvement
over 14nm. To reach those figures, Intel
used very dense standard-cell libraries and restrictive design rules, which
caused its design teams to struggle
with routing, variability, and timing
closure.
In essence, the manufacturing process and the design methodology were
both too constrained and not sufficiently co-optimised, making it difficult to produce chips that could hit
Intel’s desired clock speeds.
The result was a multiyear delay in
the intended 10nm rollout. The first
10nm generation, Cannon Lake, finally
surfaced in 2017-18, but in extremely
small quantities, and with key features
disabled (most notably the integrated
GPU) because yields were still poor.
Cannon Lake was essentially a symbolic product launch rather than a viable platform. Real, high-volume 10nm
products did not appear until the Ice
Lake generation in 2019-2020, two to
three years later than planned (and
arguably four to five years behind the
original roadmap trajectory).
siliconchip.com.au
These setbacks not only disrupted
Intel’s product cadence but also contributed to the end of the company’s
historical lead in manufacturing technology – an advantage Intel had held
for roughly three decades.
While Intel’s mass-production of
the 10nm node, intended for 2016,
was delayed until 2019, competing
foundries such as TSMC started shipping 7nm nodes in 2018. Intel’s 7nm
node (branded Intel 4) slipped to 2023
with the release of the Meteor Lake
processor.
TSMC manufactured many of
AMD’s processors using its 7nm
process, allowing AMD to obtain
increased market share and, in many
cases, superior multi-core performance.
Core processors
During the 2010s and subsequently,
Core processors evolved through
multiple generations, but all share a
common lineage. Some things have
changed; others have not. We will not
discuss each generation of Core processors, as they mainly represented
incremental changes, except for the
introduction of the hybrid and then
tile architectures.
Every Intel Core-branded processor
from the 1st Generation (Nehalem/
Westmere, 2008-2010) to the current Core Ultra Series 2 (2024-2025)
belongs to the same architectural
family that began with the 2006 Core
microarchitecture.
They all have x86-64 instruction
compatibility and include integrated
memory controllers, PCIe, and (almost
always) graphics, making the Core
brand the longest continuous
mainstream CPU lineage in the
industry.
Despite 17 years of massive evolution, a 1st-Gen
Core i7-920 and a 2025
Core Ultra 9 285K are still
members of the same processor family.
Every Intel Core-branded processor from 1st Gen (2008) to the present
(2025) has the following aspects in
common (from 1st Generation to Core
Ultra Series 2).
● All are 64-bit x86 processors
using the x86-64 instruction set.
● All descend from the 2006 Core
microarchitecture.
● All have an integrated memory
controller since Nehalem.
● All have an integrated PCIe controller since Nehalem.
● Most have integrated graphics
(except F, KF and X suffix parts).
● Most have Turbo Boost.
● From the Core 2, they all support SSE-SSE3. Nehalem and later
add SSE4.1, and all 2nd Gen (Sandy
Bridge) and newer include SSE4.2,
making the Sandy Bridge family (2011)
the practical cut-off for Windows 11
compatibility.
● Intel 64, VT-x, AES-NI, TXT technologies are all present from 1st Gen
onward (some added mid-generation).
● Core i3/i5/i7/i9 (later Core Ultra
5/7/9) always indicate relative performance tiers within a generation.
The following aspects of Core processors have changed significantly:
● Process nodes (from 45nm to 3nm
and beyond).
● The move to a multi-chip module
design from monolithic.
● Core counts (from 2 to 38+ in
2025).
● The hybrid big.LITTLE design
(from 12th Gen onward).
● The branding shifted to “Core
Ultra” (2023+).
Fig.40: Intel would
normally package
their flagship i9 CPUs
in interesting boxes. For
the 9900K, they used a
dodecahedron. Source: www.
reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/
comments/1hhug73/
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 25
● New instructions (AVX, AVX2,
AVX-512, AMX etc) were added over
time.
● Recent chips have a dedicated
NPU (neural processing unit).
Hardware security problems
Further Intel problems emerged in
the form of major security vulnerabilities discovered in their processors, beginning with Meltdown and
Spectre in 2018. These were not isolated issues, but the first widely publicised examples of a new class of
hardware-level side-channel attacks
exploiting speculative execution; the
very optimisation techniques that had
driven CPU performance for years.
After the initial disclosures, additional vulnerabilities were uncovered throughout 2018-2020. These
included several more Spectre variants
and more Intel-specific weaknesses
such as Foreshadow (also called L1TF,
2018), which compromised Intel’s
SGX secure enclaves, and the ZombieLoad, RIDL, and Fallout attacks (2019),
collectively known as MDS (Microarchitectural Data Sampling).
Later came SwapGS (2019), TSX
Asynchronous Abort (TAA, 2019),
CacheOut (2020), Snoop-assisted L1D
sampling (Snoop MDS, 2019/2020),
and others. Each required microcode
patches and/or operating system mitigations, in some cases reducing CPU
performance significantly.
These vulnerabilities highlighted
fundamental defects in speculative
execution and cache behaviour, and
the need for architectural changes
rather than simple software fixes. Intel
eventually redesigned parts of its cores
(starting with Cascade Lake in 2019,
and more fully in subsequent generations) to mitigate some of these flaws
in hardware.
Earlier processors continue to rely
on a combination of firmware and
operating system patches, many of
which come with performance overheads.
These didn’t affect only Intel – AMD
processors were vulnerable to some
issues too, notably Spectre. However,
the vulnerabilities affecting AMD
chips were generally far less severe
and much easier to mitigate, and the
episode clearly shifted the competitive
advantage toward AMD’s products.
This likely reflects AMD’s more conservative architectural approach to
speculative execution, which avoided
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many of the pitfalls that plagued Intel’s
designs.
What is an Intel Core
Generation?
Intel naming conventions and generations can be very confusing (to say the
least). Again, to be fair, AMD’s processor naming scheme isn’t much better.
The Generation or Series of an Intel
processor is a naming convention that
primarily applies to their Core range of
processors. Other types of Intel processors such as the Xeon, Pentium, Celeron and “Intel Processor” brand also
have generations, but the identification with a specific generation is less
prominent and not a marketing feature.
The Generation of a Core processor refers to the major product family
released roughly every 12-18 months,
which usually (but not always)
involves a new or refined microarchitecture, an updated manufacturing
process, higher core counts, new features, or some combination of these
improvements.
It is indicated by the first number(s)
after the brand in the model name (eg,
Core i7-13700K = 13th Generation,
Core i9-14900K = 14th Generation).
Intel stopped using “Gen” with the
14th Gen and started using Series, eg,
Core Ultra 7 200V = Series 2 / Lunar
Lake generation – see Table 5.
In 2023, Intel introduced a new
naming scheme for laptops with the
Meteor Lake generation, dropping the
old i3/i5/i7/i9 branding and replacing
it with the Core Ultra name and a new
Series-based numbering system (eg,
Core Ultra 7 155H).
Desktop processors, however, continued to use the traditional 14th Gen
style naming for a transitional period.
Core Ultra processors also introduced
a built-in Neural Processing Unit
(NPU) for on-device AI acceleration.
The letters at the end of a traditional
Intel CPU model name indicate specific features, for example:
● K means the processor is unlocked
and suitable for overclocking
● F has no integrated GPU
● S means special edition
● T means power optimised
● H, HK or HX means the processor
is a high-performance type
● P means performance-optimised
for thin and light laptops
● U means power-efficient
● Y means extremely low power
● G1-G7 means integrated graphics
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of different performance capabilities
● E means embedded with various
features (UE, HE etc)
Significant changes in the Core
lineup were the new hybrid core
approach in the 12th Generation
and beyond, ongoing improvements
in energy efficiency and support for
newer features, such as the PCIe 5.0
bus and DDR5 memory.
2020s: hybrid technology,
foundry ambitions
The 2020s to date have been characterised by Intel’s pursuit of hybrid
technology (the use of different processor cores in the one package) and
their foundry ambitions to become the
“TSMC of the West again”, through
their Integrated Device Manufacturing
(IDM 2.0) strategy.
Intel is also fighting to regain manufacturing leadership and relevance
in AI, mobile and beyond-PC markets
in an era where “Intel Inside” no longer automatically means dominance.
Under Gelsinger’s leadership, Intel’s
IDM 2.0 strategy was developed in
2021 as a comprehensive strategy to:
a. develop more advanced and competitive chips
b. expand manufacturing capacity and capability, particularly in the
United States
c. launch Intel Foundry Services
(IFS) to build chips for other companies
d. make strategic use of other foundries such as TSMC when necessary
e. develop its own internal foundry
model to ensure consistent processes
throughout its foundries
Some of Intel’s new US foundry
developments have also been heavily
subsidised by US taxpayers, reflecting a political aim to rebuild domestic
semiconductor manufacturing. Under
the CHIPS and Science Act, Intel has
received billions of dollars in grants,
tax incentives and low-cost loans to
modernise existing fabs and construct
new ones in Arizona, Ohio and other
locations.
Hybrid architecture: E- and P-cores
Intel’s hybrid architecture started
with the 12th Generation in 2021 and
continues today. These chips contain
two kinds of cores: high-performance
“P-cores” (big cores) optimised for
maximum single-thread speed and
heavy workloads, and high-efficiency
“E-cores” (little cores) optimised for
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low power consumption and good
multi-threaded throughput at much
lower clocks and a smaller die area.
The use of the two core types allows
less intensive background tasks to use
the energy-efficient E-cores, while
more intensive high-power tasks, such
as video editing, 3D games or CAD, can
use the faster P-cores.
The main advantage of having the
two types of cores is improved energy
efficiency without a loss of performance, resulting in greatly improved
battery life in mobile devices and less
stringent cooling requirements for
desktop computers.
Windows 11 (and modern Linux)
and the Intel Thread Director hardware
scheduler decides in real time which
threads run on P-cores and which run
on E-cores.
Alder Lake was the first 12th Generation Core, released in 2021 and discontinued in 2025. It used the Gracemont microarchitecture for its E-cores
and the Golden Cove microarchitecture for its P-cores, both fabricated on
a single monolithic chip, not separate
chiplets or tiles – see Fig.41.
Alder Lake used a 14nm or 10nm
(Intel 7) process node, depending on
version, and had up to eight E-cores
and eight P-cores per chip. Intel did
not release a transistor count for any
version of this processor.
Following Alder Lake, the design
focus moved to chiplets (known as
tiles by Intel), which are individual pieces of silicon in one package,
designed with efficiency, cost and
flexibility in mind. The first chiplet
design was Sapphire Rapids, a Xeon
processor, released in 2021. Meteor
Lake was the first Core processor to
use tiles (Core Series 1, 2023).
Next month
We’ve run out of space this month,
but now that we’ve caught up with the
present in terms of Intel’s CPU technology, we’ll shift to look at the current and future technologies they are
using to remain competitive.
That will include tiles, Foveros
Direct 3D interconnections, EMIB,
PowerVia, RibbonFET, AI acceleration
and their work on dedicated GPUs.
We’ll also look into their fabrication
facilities, other technologies they
helped develop (like USB and Thunderbolt) and provide more detail on
their CEOs and other notable people
SC
who worked for Intel.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.41: a die shot of an Alder Lake P with six performance cores, eight efficiency
cores and 96 execution units (EUs). EUs assist in computation and/or graphics.
Source: https://locuza.substack.com/p/die-walkthrough-alder-lake-sp-and
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 27
Solar Panel Protector
and Optimiser
by Ian Ashford
This simple design offers two useful functions for solar installations, whether it be for the
home, the shed or even the caravan. It reduces the chance of damage from lightning while also
providing an ‘ideal’ blocking diode function so you can still get power from the panels when some
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-group-of-buildings-with-red-roofs-VgF9kogcU1U
are shaded.
T
he first function of this board is to
arrest a lightning-induced surge
before damage can occur to the downstream electronics. It also provides a
blocking diode function for up to three
solar panel strings. A blocking diode
allows for the maximum power to be
extracted from parallel strings when
one or more panels are shaded.
The board can be built to provide
either or both functions; the choice
is yours.
Lightning surge protection
Lightning is destructive and difficult to defend against. We use lightning rods for tall buildings, Earth conductors above high voltage transmission lines and there are even rockets
specially developed for launchpad
protection, which will launch themselves into storms trailing an Earthed
wire.
Many of these protection schemes
perform as single-shot devices, but are
still a small cost to pay for the protection provided.
A single bolt of lightning may
release between 200MJ and 7GJ of
energy. For comparison, 5kW of solar
panels on your roof would take around
11 hours to collect just 200MJ and 16
days to collect 7GJ, yet a storm can
28
Silicon Chip
deliver this in a single, instantaneous
pulse. And it can do it again, and again,
and again in a short period.
Lightning can cause significant damage to electrical goods, even if they are
not directly in the path of the impact.
An induced voltage or current wave
can travel in a cable to all your most
valued goods from a nearby lightning
strike.
Complex Earthing routes, including
conductive items like train tracks and
steel framed buildings, all affect the
extent and magnitude of any induced
pulses. Any conductive material
within close proximity to the strike
will likely carry significant currents
as the charge dissipates.
This design offers a solution for
induced pulses. Unfortunately, it can’t
do much to help if 7GJ lands in your
backyard (or worse, on your panels!).
Ultimately, whatever protection you
put in place, there can always be a
bigger event or a direct hit to thwart
your efforts. This surge arrestor is a
good start, but it isn’t guaranteed to
provide protection for all events and
for all causes.
Australian and international design
standards provide guidance for solar
installations and the impact of a lightning induced surge. For example, IEC
Australia's electronics magazine
61643 parts 31 and 32 contain relevant
information. The standards provide
guidance for these effects, and define
a typical waveform so the design team
can then build circuits and simulations to test their designs against.
One of these ‘design’ spikes is a
waveform that rises from 0V to 90%
of the peak within 8µs (microseconds) and then decays to 50% of the
peak within 20µs. This is known as
an 8/20 waveform. It is very fast and
short lived; this latter part is the key
for the success of this design.
The actual magnitude of the peak
depends on many factors, including
the proximity of the protection device
to the source and obviously the intensity of the lightning bolt.
Measurements conducted by people (who may or may not have been
flying kites in a storm) indicate that
a surge induced into a roof mounted
solar array would require the device to
curtail a peak current of up to 20,000
amperes. Even in a low-impedance
wire, this will raise a very high voltage.
This circuit is designed to provide an
alternative path for the surge, instead
of via your panels and connected electronics. It is triggered when the surge
voltage exceeds a design threshold.
siliconchip.com.au
Features & Specifications
My installation has three sets of solar panels, all operating around 100Voc. From
left to right, 3 strings to catch the westerly sunlight, (2.7kW), 2 strings to catch
the sunrise, (1.8kW), and a main bank of 9 pairs of panels facing north, (3.5kW).
Maximum protection occurs if the
threshold is very close to, but just
above, the open-circuit voltage of the
connected solar panels.
For this design, the fault current that
can be absorbed is limited to 20kA
with an 8/20 profile. The circuit does
not activate under normal operating
conditions, and will not affect the normal operation of the solar panels and
collection system.
For numerous reasons, rooftop solar
panels are often installed electrically
floating, with neither power conductor referenced to Earth. This design
maintains that condition at all times,
except during a surge event, when one
or more conductors could be shorted
to Earth as the device activates.
A surge can manifest in one of several ways: it can form between the
supply cables or on both conductors,
raising a voltage spike between both
conductors relative to Earth. The surge
can be a positive or negative trending
spike and would be superimposed
onto the normal operating voltages
within the circuit.
The surge protection in this design
is based on varistors. Until triggered,
they exhibit properties similar to a
back-to-back pair of zener diodes.
Current will flow in either direction
once the voltage threshold has been
reached. Although small, they can
conduct many thousands of amps for
very short periods.
To operate as a surge arrestor, the
siliconchip.com.au
varistor is placed between the source
of the surge and a safe return path,
short-circuiting the surge, while avoiding the downstream hardware.
In this design, varistors are installed
across the string outputs, to address a
surge on one or the other supply line,
and also between Earth and each of the
two conductors, to provide a path for a
surge that raises the potential of both
conductors relative to Earth. It is likely
that multiple varistors will conduct if
a surge propagates through the circuit.
Varistors, like zener diodes, are
available in a range of voltage and
wattage ratings. Ideally, the selection
of the varistor should be specific to a
particular installation to maximise the
protection provided.
Commercial surge arrestors are
designed for a generic installation,
allowing solar string voltages up to
1000V. In this case, the varistor would
only provide protection against surges
of around 1200V, which for most
● PV panel protection for
lightning-induced voltage
spikes for up to three strings
● Surge peak capacity of 20kA
● Maximum total throughput of
60A (20A per string)
● 120V maximum open-circuit
string voltage
● Maximum protection via
selectable surge activation level
to suit the installation
● Up to three blocking diodes to
prevent energy loss into shaded
strings
● Additional units can be
connected in parallel if required
● Blocking diodes utilise ‘ideal
diodes’ to reduce power losses
● Small footprint
● Low cost
installations is already causing damage to your inverters and charge controllers.
We want to keep the activation just
above the maximum, normal voltage of
the system. This may be as low as 25V
for a nominal 12V panel, as commonly
used in caravans and campers. The
varistors must be chosen to prevent
activation under normal conditions.
As a guide, the voltage rating for the
varistor should be above the Voc rating
of one panel, multiplied by the number of panels in series, plus an additional 10% to allow for extremely cold
weather or minor variances within the
components.
In this design, there is provision
for three solar strings to be connected
on one circuit board. Each string has
its own surge arrestor components.
The positive conductors connect to a
common rail, so only one varistor is
required to provide a path to Earth,
allowing for a reduced parts count.
How much energy is in an 8/20 surge?
The datasheet states that a surge protector which uses V25S115P varistors
will clamp the surge at 295V at 100A.
For a peak current of 20kA, and with the varistor clamped at 295V, the peak
power would be 5.9MW (295V × 20kA). The duration of the wave, making some
assumptions for the decay beyond 20µs, would be around 30µs. So the energy
from the lightning surge would equate to the average power level, multiplied
by the duration: 5.9MW × 30µs ÷ 2 = 88J. This is the equivalent energy of a
5kg weight suspended 1.8m above the ground.
The V25S115P is rated for a pulse of 230J, comfortably over the 88J of the
8/20 surge. Not bad for a device that retails for around $2.50 in batches of 10.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 29
Multiple boards can be used if required
by a particular setup.
For maximum protection of downstream appliances, the varistor should have
the lowest trigger voltage rating available while staying above the applied solar
panel string voltage.
For our first example, three identical solar strings are to be connected to the
surge arrestor. Each string is comprised of two series-connected 440W solar
panels with an open-circuit voltage (Voc) of 52.2V. The string Voc is therefore
104.4V (2 × 52.2V). To ensure against a higher than expected Voc due to cold
weather and for component variance, make it 114.8V (10% higher).
Thus, we need to select a varistor with a DC voltage rating in excess of 115V.
The V25S115P is suitable for an 8/20 22kA peak surge waveform. The datasheet states that the device will commence conducting between 162V (minimum) and 198V (maximum), which is above the calculated value.
In our second example, two low-voltage panels are to be connected to the
surge arrestor, one per string. Each panel has a Voc of 22V. Allowing an extra
10%, requires a minimum varistor DC voltage rating of 24.2V.
In this case, no low-voltage 20kA devices were available for selection. For
example, the V20H20P is suitable for an 8/20 5kA peak surge waveform. This
device will commence conducting between 30V (minimum) and 36V (maximum). The lower commencement of conduction will offer better protection
for voltage-sensitive appliances, even with a lower energy surge capacity.
Ultimately, the decision on which varistor to select is something that will
need to be addressed for each installation.
The PCB has extra holes to cover several different varistor footprints, to
account for the different design selections. Datasheets and searchable datasets for these and other varistors are available from major suppliers, including
Mouser (https://au.mouser.com/c/circuit-protection/varistors/?mounting%20
style=Through%20Hole&instock=y).
Due to cost constraints or other
reasons, this is not always the way.
Without blocking diodes, the output
voltages of the two strings would both
be dragged down by the lower illuminated string, resulting in less power
being collected. Some of the energy
harvested by the illuminated string
would also be conducted into the less
illuminated string.
The only time this system could
work optimally is around midday,
when the sun is overhead and the
strings are equally illuminated. Placing a blocking diode in each string
will improve the situation, preventing any losses into the less illuminated panel.
For those who enjoy taking a caravan off grid, charging the battery
should be easy using the panel on the
van roof and an additional plug-in
panel, which is shifted around during
the day to catch those fleeting rays.
Unfortunately, the additional panel
rarely doubles the solar collection
since the default wiring in most caravans has any additional panel wired in
parallel, and they share a single charge
controller. Power from the higher voltage panel is wasted, flowing into the
other panel instead of charging the
batteries.
With a blocking diode inserted after
each panel, the maximum energy
available is sent to the battery, eliminating any waste.
To prevent losses, the blocking
diodes in this design are provided
using ‘ideal diodes’. A standard diode
would dissipate around 10W when
conducting 10A. The ideal diodes
have a voltage drop of around 0.1V and
therefore only dissipate around 1W
for the same function. For the 200W
panel used on a caravan, that saving
represents an appreciable portion of
the energy available for collection.
This part of the circuit is similar to
our Ideal Diode circuits published in
the December 2023 (siliconchip.au/
Article/16043) and September 2024
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/16580).
This version can be simpler because
it’s used in a very specific configuration.
The design includes a small heatsink for each Mosfet to allow for measuring of the short-circuit current rating of the attached array, a measurement that is required to be performed
before completing the commissioning
of a solar installation.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Blocking diodes
The second part of the design is
thankfully less energetic and much
simpler. When two or more solar panels or strings are operated in parallel, even if electrically identical, they
will have minor differences in performance. All other things being otherwise equal, the hotter panel will have a
marginally lower peak operating voltage than the cooler panel and will produce a little less power.
For minor differences, the parallel strings will both provide power at
an average voltage and deliver only
slightly below the peak power levels
expected.
If one panel is heavily shaded,
though, the output from the shaded
string is well below the other. The
higher voltage string will push current
into the other string, wasting power
that could have been delivered to your
appliances.
If three or more strings are connected together, the shaded string
could be damaged by the current from
the unshaded strings, fusing internal
conductors or even the cables and conductors between the panels.
Installation guidelines were recently
amended by regulators and now all
new installations, where more than
two strings are connected, must be
fitted with a blocking diode to prevent this reverse current. This was not
mandated as a correction for existing
installations.
A blocking diode will also allow the
less productive string to be excluded
should its output fall too low. A
high-quality maximum power point
tracker (MPPT) will still perform faultlessly with the diodes in circuit, and
will continue to find the maximum
power point whether it be from one
string in full sun or with two strings
operating at the lower, shaded panel
voltage.
The blocking diodes will ensure that
power always goes to your appliances
and never flows from one string into
another, avoiding losses.
For some households, a north-facing
rooftop is not readily available, and the
panels may be split into two halves.
One string will be on an east-facing
roof, the other west-facing. These
installations should really be using
two solar charge controllers, one to
handle each orientation, to ensure
that the maximum power is collected
throughout the day.
Selecting the varistors
30
Silicon Chip
The surge protection devices must be installed in a suitable enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact. Choose a location
electrically close to the panels, to allow for some additional protection to the downsteam devices due to any additional
cable length and resistance offered by any conductors or isolation devices further along the circuit.
During the test, the two outputs,
labelled Common Positive and Common Negative on this design, may
be shorted together, resulting in 0V
between the two. Current will continue to flow through the Mosfet, but
its driver chip will be unpowered, providing no gate voltage to the Mosfet.
Under these unique conditions, the
Mosfet’s dissipation will be similar
to that of a silicon diode, typically in
the order of 1W per amp of current.
To prevent damage to the Mosfet, this
test should be undertaken only for
short durations, monitoring the temperature of the Mosfet.
The preferred solution is to measure
the short-circuit current by shorting
the inputs to the PCB instead, excluding the Mosfets from the short-circuit
path.
Circuit details
The circuit is shown in Fig.1; it contains three nearly identical circuits,
duplicated to provide the surge arrest
function and blocking diode function
for three strings. The circuit can be
built for one, two or three strings by
omitting the appropriate parts.
siliconchip.com.au
If surge protection is not required,
omit the varistors. If blocking diodes
are not required, the Mosfets and associated parts can be omitted and wire
links added, shorting the source and
drain at each Mosfet location.
Two varistors are installed per solar
panel string, plus one additional varistor from the common positive rail to
Earth. All varistors are identical and
should be selected to provide maximum protection to your solar array, as
per the accompanying panel.
The ideal diodes are based on the
ZXGD3111 chip, an active ORing
Mosfet controller with a 200V upper
limit. This controller requires diodes
in the negative leg, rather than the
more traditional positive supply conductor. The controller will switch on
the Mosfet once the voltage measured
between the source and drain connections exceeds the internal threshold of
around 3mV.
A simple linear power supply based
on transistor Q4 and zener diode D1
provides approximately 18V to each of
the ideal diode drivers. For string voltages less than 20V, all components associated with the voltage regulator can be
Australia's electronics magazine
omitted, with power for the driver chip
being provided directly from the common positive rail by shorting the emitter and collector pads for Q4.
In this case, retain the three bypass
capacitors close to the driver chips. For
intermediate voltages, in the range of
20V to 60V, one of the 47kW resistors
should be replaced with a short length
of wire to ensure sufficient current
flow to the zener diode and to maintain regulation for the base current
flowing into Q4.
The Mosfets are N-channel types,
which outperform P-channel units in
the magnitude of the internal resistance, current capacity and most
importantly their cost. When selecting
a Mosfet, choose a component that will
ensure that the Vds and current rating
comfortably exceeds the maximum
Voc and Isc of the attached strings and
choose a component with an RDSon of
less than 10mW.
This requirement is easily achieved
at lower voltages and lower current
levels. At the time of writing, the
NTP011N15MC costs a little over $3
a piece. It has a 150V drain-to-source
breakdown rating and can conduct
March 2026 31
73A. In this design, it is safe to utilise these for a solar array up to 120V
and 20A.
PCB design
The circuit board configuration is
shown in Fig.2. Termination points
are provided for the solar panel strings
on the left-hand side of the board. For
each string, the positive and negative
terminals straddle a low-impedance
Earth conductor, providing a very
short path for any surge currents.
All terminals to the board are rated
well in excess of the 200V upper limit
for the ideal diode driver chip, and
can handle a continuous current of
80A.
During a surge, it can be expected
that all conductive surfaces on the left
Fig.1: the circuit consists of three virtually identical blocks, with the power
supply components (Q4, ZD1 etc) and VAR1 shared between them. Each block
has one varistor between the inputs, one from the negative input to Earth and
one from the shared positive output to Earth. The ICs make the Mosfets act like
almost ideal diodes.
32
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
hand side of the board, including the
Earth connection, will be operating at
their upper design limits and may even
show signs of charring around component legs where the copper conductor
areas are smallest. Absorbing or redirecting 20kA is not an easy task.
Assembly
The device is built on a double-sided
PCB coded 17112251 that measures
74.5 × 150mm. A mix of throughhole and SMD parts are all mounted
on the top side. All of the SMDs are
large enough to be installed by a competent constructor using a decent soldering iron if a hot air rework station
is not available.
Construction is simple. Start by
inspecting the board for any obvious
defects; there are only a few finer
tracks and these should be an easy
task to confirm that they have continuity. Pay particular attention to the
supply tracks that start from the bottom of the board, running up the middle, to the controller for Q1.
Start by installing the controller
chips first; with seven leads, they are
difficult to get in the wrong orientation. Then fit the parts associated
with the 18V supply along the base of
the board, followed by the capacitors
beside the driver chips.
Clean up any solder bridges and
retouch any connections that may be
incomplete or lack fusion. Then press
the terminals onto the board. They are
a firm fit and should not fall out after
installation. Turn over the board or
solder from the top if you have room.
Solder all four legs, ensuring a good
conductive path for each.
The Mosfets are next; each tab is
tied to the drain. No isolation washer
was used on the prototype boards as
the heatsinks are well spaced and pose
no greater touch risk than the adjacent
lugged terminals.
In each case, secure the heatsink to
the Mosfet using a 3mm washers, nut
and bolt. Press the heatsink onto the
board, aligning the Mosfet leads. After
seating the heatsink, solder the support legs to the board and then solder
the Mosfet leads.
If the blocking diode function is
not required, don’t fit the Mosfets but
remember to solder a shorting wire
between the drain and source at each
Mosfet location.
Carefully unpack the varistors and
place them on the board, as low as they
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: when assembling the PCB, fit the SMDs first and take care with
the orientation of IC1-IC3 and ZD1. The ICs should have a dot, divot
or beveled edge indicating the pin 1 side and they must be orientated
as shown here. ZD1’s cathode stripe goes towards the regulator.
Attach the Mosfets to the heatsinks before soldering the pins.
will go without cracking any of their
rigid coating. Solder the legs from the
underside, trimming the excess away.
Set-up and testing
There are no adjustments to be made
to the board. After completing the construction, check for any shorts or dry
joints, rectifying as required.
Testing is a two-step process. Step
one is to confirm operation of the
power supply. Connect a DC supply
to the output terminals, paying attention to the polarity.
Raise the voltage from zero to
approximately 30V; the 18V rail will
begin to rise, then should be fixed
around 18V as the connected supply continues to rise. Do not proceed
past 20V if the rail is not performing
as expected. The 18V rail can be measured on pin 3 of Q4, with ground
being the negative output terminal.
siliconchip.com.au
Carefully confirm that the 18V rail
is present on the top side of the bypass
capacitors for IC1-IC3. If all is correct,
disconnect the testing power supply
and continue with installation.
The board needs to be housed in
a conductive metal enclosure that is
well Earthed. Drill and/or punch the
enclosure panels to allow for cable
glands and/or MC4 style connectors.
Drill a neat hole and remove any paint
adjacent ready for bolting an Earth
cable to the external face of the enclosure. Use star washers to ensure the
bolt has a good electrical connection
to the box, as shown in Fig.3.
Use a similar connection internally
for the PCB’s Earth connection and
don’t forget to Earth the door if it is
hinged.
Fig.3: how to attach an Earthing bolt
to the interior of the enclosure. Star
washers should be used to ensure a
good electrical connection.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 33
Parts List – Solar Panel Protector (per board)
1 double-sided PCB coded 17112251, 74.5 × 150mm
5-9 4mm screw terminals (CON1-CON9) [Amphenol AMT0440008TH0000G]
5-9 M4 × 6mm panhead machine screws (for CON1-CON9)
3-7 varistors, type depending on PV array details (VAR1-VAR7)
(see panel; V25S115P used in the prototype)
1-3 ZXGD3111N7TC N+1 ORing Controller ICs, SOIC-7 (IC1-IC3)
1-3 NTP011N15MC 150V 74A N-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q1-Q3)
1-3 PCB-mounting TO-220 heatsinks [Wakefield-Vette 657-10ABPE]
1 PZTA42 300V 500mA NPN transistor, SOT-223 (Q4)
1 SMAZ18-13-F 18V 1W or CMZ5931B 18V 1.5W zener diode, DO-214AC
(ZD1)
4 4.7μF 50V X7R M3216/1206 SMD MLCC capacitors
2 47kW ±5% ¼W M3216/1206 SMD resistors
1-3 M3 × 10mm panhead machine screws
1-3 M3 hex nuts
8 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
4 12mm-long M3-tapped Nylon spacers
* wiring is not included in the parts list
Why no fuses?
Would a fuse on the supply cables prevent damage downstream? In this application, any fuses must be able to interrupt the surge from arcing over and
therefore need an interrupt rating of at least 20kA. If not adequately rated, the
fuse will continue to conduct after the wire has evaporated, performing more
like a 0W fluorescent tube than a protection device.
For a typical solar panel, the short circuit current would be around 9A, so a
10A-rated fuse should be sufficient. During a lightning induced surge, the current will rise rapidly toward the peak at 20kA. Intuition and basic maths tells us
that 20kA is much, much bigger than 10A and hence the fuse will blow. Right?
Unfortunately fuses don’t operate instantaneously, they take a finite time to
melt, even at 20kA. A typical 10A fuse with a rated interrupt value of 20kA will
take approximately 50µs to break at 20kA, too long to be of any benefit when
controlling an 8/20 surge. For the protection of electronics, very fast acting
devices are required; fuses just aren’t fast enough.
Another photo showing the
internals of the Solar Panel
Protector.
If you were to
use a fuse,
it would
need a 20kA
rating, like
this SPF001
1000V DC
fuse by
Littlefuse.
34
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
If directly terminating cables to the
PCB, measure twice and cut once,
allowing a little extra length for bends
and for any minor mistakes when
crimping the lug to the cable. It is better to be looking at the cable rather than
looking for it. If using MC4 panel sockets/plugs, use connecting cable of similar cross sectional area; multi-strand,
if possible, to allow for tighter bends.
Ensure all connecting cables are
rated for the currents and voltages
being applied. The current rating is
specifically important because the
solar panels will be delivering their
rated current for many hours at a time,
often on hot days.
Ensure all cables are correctly run
and secured using the correct torque
for each terminal (1.1Nm/10lbf.
in). Connections must be made by
an appropriately skilled person for
low-voltage applications and, where
mandated due to higher voltages, you
must use a qualified electrician. If in
doubt, have an electrician skilled in
solar installations perform the work.
Connections to the solar array
should only be undertaken with the
panels isolated. Do not work on live
cables.
Once all terminals are connected,
visually check for the correct polarity
if using colour-coded cable. Close the
cabinet and re-energise. If your charge
controller is showing an input, assuming it is sunny, then all is going well. If
not, double-check the polarity of any
connections and rectify as required.
The voltage drop across each ‘diode’
is difficult to measure. The best way
to do this, is to measure the voltage
from the common negative output
back to the individual negative inputs,
and be very careful around the supply cables. In normal operation, this
should be around 10mV for each amp
of current flowing. If all is OK, that’s
it. Close the lid.
Good practice dictates that the Earth
conductor should be run with the output conductors in the same conduit
and be terminated to the frame of the
inverter or Earthed charge controller.
Ensure that the downstream Earth connection is well grounded and securely
attached.
For isolated applications, like a caravan being used off grid, there will be
no Earth connection tied to the soil
outside. Connect the Earth terminal
to the frame of the inverter or charge
SC
controller.
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Converting a mousetrap into a third hand for soldering SMDs
Small SMDs can be difficult to
manipulate, especially when using
old and shaky hands like mine. Sticky
tweezers and solder flux don’t help
either. This low-tech project can
help. There are many other variations,
but for a very cheap, versatile and
semi-precision component pinning
device, this one’s pretty good.
Once lightly pinned to a PCB, an
SMD can be moved slightly (~5mm), or
the underlying PCB moved, and/or the
SMD rotated to the correct alignment
for that all-important first pin soldering.
A pair of wooden mousetraps (one
for a spare mouse!) will cost around
$5-6 or so from a hardware outlet. Disassemble one down to the basic spring
element as shown and replace the
square-bent wire with the long straight
trigger wire as the internal retaining
shaft for the spring.
Don’t bother trying to straighten the
square-bent wire for the long pinning
arm; the sharp bends strain harden the
metal and it will fracture very easily,
even if pre-heated.
Visit your local hobby shop and
obtain a ‘push-rod’, a tempered
straight wire rod used in the fuselage of model aircraft. They are usually 400mm or more long, and ideally
1.6-1.8mm in diameter. A push-rod of
this diameter has the correct stiffness
siliconchip.com.au
needed in this application as the long
pinning wire.
Cut down the timber baseplate of
the mousetrap and prepare to mount it
on a scrap piece of chipboard approximately 250 × 250 × 20mm, either
with glue or using four countersunk
screws; I used the latter. Chipboard is
preferred to a polished surface as the
texture provides good grip on a bench.
The end of the push-rod needs to
be more or less centred on the board,
around 100mm from the internal
spring shaft. Allow another 20mm for
the L-shaped bend to the pinning point.
Use needle-nosed pliers to bend a
fine loop in one end of the trimmed
push-rod, insert it over the spring
retaining shaft and, when positioned, crimp the loop down firmly.
When remounted, use the other spare
U-shaped pin and locate it close to the
other side of the loop, ie, with one pin
on each side of the loop. Pre-drilling
two locating holes with a 1.5mm drill
bit helps.
All three shaft pins can now be
seated firmly down onto the timberwork surface to create as much stability as possible. Excess metal from
the pins protruding through the timber backing can be trimmed off flush
with the timber surface.
The other end of the trimmed push-
Australia's electronics magazine
rod, the pinning point, needs to be
sharpened on a grinding wheel. This
is best achieved before bending it into
the final L shape. The desired outline
is much like a miniature version of
a new pencil – long and tapered to a
point, with a tiny flat on the end to
avoid impaling or otherwise damaging a fragile component.
Make the job a lot easier by using
the attached mousetrap base as a temporary handle to rotate the push-rod
shaft while sharpening.
In the lateral view of the pinning
push-rod shaft, you will notice a slight
bend just past the point of application
of the spring. This raises the end portion of the shaft parallel to the surface
of the baseplate, but more importantly,
activates the spring permanently at the
same time. The constant spring pressure helps to stabilise the rod in contact with an SMD on a PCB.
The pinning pressure of the spring
on a component is light and harmless
but quite positive.
While nothing fiddly is easy, practice makes perfect (almost). I would
recommend an afternoon’s practice
soldering old SMDs using the third
hand. It gave me the confidence to use
SMD technology.
Colin O’Donnell,
Adelaide, SA. ($75)
March 2026 39
By Andrew Levido
Power
Electronics
Part 5: power factor correction & EMI filtering
In last month’s article, we mentioned the importance of power factor for an efficient
electrical grid. This time, we will look at some active techniques that can help in this
regard. We will also cover EMI filtering, which is related in the sense that it is also
concerned with the mitigation of unwanted current harmonics.
E
lectromagnetic interference (EMI)
is a general term for any disturbance caused by an electromagnetic field that negatively impacts
the performance of electrical or electronic equipment. EMI can be radiated
through space or conducted from one
device to another through signal or
power cables.
While you can (and should) take
steps to make sure your designs are not
susceptible to EMI produced by other
devices, your main focus should be on
making sure your designs are not producing unacceptable levels of EMI that
could affect other equipment.
EMI standards such as EN55032
require radiated emissions in the
30MHz to 1GHz range to be below
certain field strength thresholds when
tested with a standard antenna at a distance of 10m. Mitigating radiated EMI
requires close attention to shielding
of enclosures, grounding, minimising
conductor loop areas, optimising PCB
layout, the use of ground planes and
controlling the slew rate of signals.
Conducted EMI
We will focus on conducted EMI,
specifically signals that are conducted
back into the power source by switching converters. The standards are generally concerned with frequencies
in the 150kHz to 30MHz range, and
require the level of signals within to
fall below specified thresholds over
different parts of the band, typically
measured using a spectrum analyser.
To give you an idea of what is
required, conducted EMI for a Class
A device must be below 79dBµV from
150kHz to 500kHz and below 73dBµV
from 500kHz to 30MHz when measured with a ‘quasi-peak’ detector. The
dBµV units describe the amplitude of
the conducted emissions with respect
to a 1µV reference. 79dBµV is therefore about 9mV RMS and 73dBµV is
about 4.5mV RMS.
Requirements for Class B devices
are considerably lower.
EMI is usually managed by the
addition of filters on the lines. The
switching frequency of many modern
converters is higher than 150kHz, so
the converter’s input filter plays a critical role in meeting conducted EMI
specifications. Fig.1 shows a standard
buck converter with a simple capacitive input filter Cf and with source
impedance Zs.
Our task is to analyse this filter and
ensure that the voltage amplitude of
the switching-frequency ripple (and
its harmonics) is below the required
threshold.
So far in this series, we have used
average value analysis to understand
the converter’s periodic steady-state
(PSS) operation and complex frequency analysis to determine the converter’s dynamic performance. Neither
of these will help us now, so we will
revert to good old AC time-domain
analysis.
This is a technique which, as its
name suggests, ignores the DC component of the signal and focuses on
the AC component. For example, the
PSS model shows us that the input current (ix) of the converter in Fig.1 has
a rectangular shape with a duty cycle
D and an amplitude of Il as shown in
the upper chart there.
If we remove the DC component of
the input current, we get the alternative picture shown in the lower chart.
I have shown the current here with
a duty cycle of 0.5, which gives the
highest AC RMS current. If the duty
cycle moves away from 0.5 in either
direction, the RMS current decreases,
Fig.1: the AC time-domain
analysis equivalent circuit of
this buck converter replaces
everything to the right of the
input filter capacitor with an AC
current source.
40
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
reaching zero at the extremes when D
= 0 or D = 1.
This is a common approximation
because we usually want to design
EMI filters for the worst-case situation. It is also easiest to calculate the
harmonics of the AC waveform if it is
a true square wave.
The lower circuit in Fig.1 shows the
AC analysis model of the buck converter. Everything to the right of the
input filter capacitor is replaced with
an AC current source ix(ac), and the DC
voltage source is eliminated altogether.
In this case, the current source will be
a variable duty cycle rectangular wave
with a peak-to-peak amplitude of Il.
We will use this model to design
a suitable input filter in a moment.
First, we should think about how we
are going to measure the conducted
EMI in this circuit.
The voltage that our spectrum
analyser would see, vs(ac), is obviously highly dependent on the source
impedance, Zs. We can assume this is
quite low at DC, but who knows what
it will look like over the 150kHz to
30MHz band of interest.
Fig.2: to measure conducted EMI
consistently, we need to use a line
impedance stabilisation network (LISN)
like this. The component values are
provided in the relevant EMI standard.
The LISN
To make meaningful and repeatable EMI measurements, we have to
specify a standard source impedance
at the frequency of interest. For this
reason we use a line impedance stabilisation network (LISN) when making
conducted EMI measurements. LISNs
are used with both DC and AC sources.
Fig.2 shows the AC model connected to a voltage source with impedance Zs via a LISN inside the dotted
box. I have reinstated the source voltage to indicate that the converter is
powered through the LISN, which has
a low impedance at DC or mains frequency but presents a load of 50W to
the converter input at the frequencies
of interest.
The LISN’s inductor and capacitor
values are chosen so that Cs is effectively a short circuit and Llisn is effectively open-circuit at the measurement frequencies. The impedance at
the converter’s input is therefore the
50W input impedance of the spectrum
analyser. Clisn blocks any DC or mains-
frequency AC from reaching the analyser, since the converter has to be powered up to make the measurements.
The LISN’s component values are
specified in the relevant EMI standard,
but typical values might be Cs = 1µF,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: we have to be concerned with both differential-mode
and common-mode EMI currents – each of which poses
unique filtering challenges.
Llisn = 50µH and Clisn = 100nF. Most
LISNs use air-cored inductors to keep
stray capacitances low, and there may
be a resistor in series with Cs to damp
resonances (more on this below).
There will probably also be a highvalue resistor (≥1kW) between the measurement terminal and common so
that the measurement terminal does
not float when no spectrum analyser
is connected.
Commercial LISNs may also include
additional filter stage(s) on the source
side to limit the influence that EMI
entering from the source has on the
measurement.
The LISN network shown in Fig.2
is repeated on the positive and negative lines in a DC LISN, and on each
phase and the Neutral conductor of
an AC LISN so that common-mode
and differential-mode measurements
can be made.
Australia's electronics magazine
Common mode versus
differential mode
So far we have been analysing converters and their input filters using a
huge assumption: we have assumed
that all current flowing into one input
terminal flows out of the other one as
per the upper diagram in Fig.3. This
has been a reasonable thing to do for
everything we have done so far, but it
does not stand up when we are looking at higher frequencies.
The lower diagram represents an
alternative high-frequency current
path where there is some parasitic
capacitance to Earth, for example
between the drain tab of a TO-220
Mosfet and an Earthed heatsink. This
current enters via the positive input
terminal but returns to the source via
Earth – there is no corresponding current coming out of the negative input
terminal.
March 2026 41
Fig.4: an LC differential-mode filter like this one may require damping to eliminate oscillations caused by gain
peaking at the LC resonant frequency.
This is just one possible alternative
path for current to flow; there will be
many in a real converter, including
some related to the negative terminal.
In reality, both types of current flow
will be happening at the same time, so
the currents labelled i1 and i2 will be
the sum of the two. The current that
flows into one terminal and out the
other is termed the differential-mode
current (idm), and the current that only
flows into one terminal is the common-
mode current, icm.
The differential-mode current includes the normal operating current
of the converter, including all of its
harmonics, while the common-mode
current is related to leakage paths.
Mathematically, idm is defined to
be ½(i1 – i2) and icm is i1 + i2. Note that
both i1 and i2 flow into the converter
in this model. These definitions give
a clue to the names; differential-mode
current is related to the difference in
currents flowing into the converter,
while common-mode currents are
related to the total current flowing into
both terminals.
It is perhaps more intuitive to look
at these equations from the other direction – in terms of the currents into
the positive terminal and that coming
out of the negative one, ie, i1 and -i2,
respectively.
In this case, i1 = idm + ½icm and -i2 =
idm – ½icm. In other words, differential-
mode current flows into one terminal
and out the other, while common-
mode current flows equally into both
terminals and out somewhere else.
Differential-mode input filter
EMI standards put limits on both
differential-mode and common-mode
interference, so both have to be filtered. These two filtering problems are
different in nature and have different
challenges and solutions. We’ll start
with the differential-mode filter.
To do this, we will go back to the
AC analysis model we created in Fig.1.
The input filter was a simple capacitor,
42
Silicon Chip
and we saw that its effectiveness was
dependent on the source impedance.
For EMI measurements, we can use a
LISN to standardise the source impedance, but for everyday operation, we
are stuck with an unknown impedance.
We can reduce this dependence by
employing an LC filter like that shown
in the AC equivalent circuit of Fig.4.
I have drawn this filter as it appears
in the converter, with its input on the
right and its output on the left. You
might be wondering why, if this is
the case, the inductor is on the output
side of the filter and not on the input
side, as is usual for LC filters. This is
a current-sourced filter, so the source
has a much higher impedance than
the load (Zs).
In a typical voltage-sourced filter,
the source has a lower impedance
than the load. In both cases, the filter
works most effectively if the inductor
is on the low-impedance side, since its
impedance increases with frequency.
The graphs to the right of the schematic show the current transfer function of the filter (ratio of output current
is to input current ix), which looks like
that of any typical LC low-pass filter.
The cutoff frequency is 1 ÷ (2π√Lf Cf),
and the roll-off is -40dB per decade.
To the right of that is the filter’s impedance characteristic.
At frequencies well below fc, the
impedance is dominated by the inductance; at frequencies above fc, it is dominated by the capacitance.
With ideal components, as we
approach the cutoff frequency, the
magnitude of the transfer function
and impedance are theoretically
infinite. With real components, there
will always be some degree of natural
damping, but LC filters often exhibit
significant peaking at the resonant
frequency, as shown dotted in the
diagrams.
LC filters tend to oscillate because
of this peaking, especially if excited
by a harmonic-rich square wave. This
Australia's electronics magazine
problem is compounded in power
electronics because switching converters often have a negative input
resistance. This negative resistance
provides ‘negative damping’ and
increases the likelihood of oscillation.
To understand how a switching
converter can exhibit negative input
resistance, consider a DC-DC converter with a fixed output voltage and
load. Under these circumstances, some
amount of power is being delivered to
the load and consequently drawn from
the input source.
If the input voltage were to rise a little bit, the control loop would adjust
the duty cycle to keep the output
voltage constant. The output power
remains constant, so therefore does
the input power, causing the input
current to drop slightly.
Ohm’s Law dictates that the input
resistance is the change in voltage
(positive in our example) divided by
the change in current (negative), so
the incremental input resistance must
be negative.
Damping
For these reasons, it is quite common to require some form of damping
on the input LC filter of a switching
converter. Fig.5 shows one common
way to do this. The damping capacitor Cd is larger than the filter capacitor, so it appears close to a short circuit at the undamped filter’s resonant
frequency. This puts Rd effectively in
parallel with Cf, providing the necessary damping. This series resistor/
capacitor combination is often referred
to as a ‘snubber’.
Selecting the damping resistor value
is an optimisation problem. If it is too
small, the damping capacitor appears
in parallel with Cf, shifting the cutoff
frequency but not contributing much
damping. If it is too large, it also does
not provide much damping. The optimum resistor value depends on the
ratio of Cd to Cf, which is usually
denoted by the Greek letter xi (ξ).
siliconchip.com.au
Their derivation is a bit complicated, but you can use the expressions
to the right of Fig.5 to calculate the
optimum value of the damping resistor and the resulting maximum impedance of the filter. The latter is important because we need to keep it low to
reduce the impact of the converter’s
negative input impedance.
A realistic example
It is probably easier to follow if we
work through a simple example. Let’s
assume we have a 60W buck converter
with a 12V input and 6V/10A output
operating at a frequency of 500kHz.
The worst-case duty cycle is 0.5, so the
AC input current will be a square wave
with a peak-to-peak amplitude of 10A.
Let us suppose that we want to
design an input filter that reduces this
current ripple by a factor of 100, to no
more than 100mA peak-to-peak.
We first have to work out the cutoff frequency of an undamped LC
filter that will give us the required
attenuation. We do this by initially
assuming that most of the energy in
the square wave occurs at the fundamental frequency. We know a square
wave only has odd harmonics, and that
their amplitude is given by In(pk-pk) =
2I(pk-pk) ÷ nπ, where n is the harmonic
number.
The peak-to-peak amplitude of the
fundamental component of current
will therefore be 6.37A. Just as a check,
the next harmonic (the third) would
have an amplitude 1/3 of that, or 2.12A,
and each subsequent harmonic will
have a proportionally lower amplitude.
The desired attenuation factor of
100 means we require the peak-topeak amplitude of the fundamental
component of the filter’s output to be
63.7mA or lower. We will use a lower
value, say 25mA, to account for the
fact that we have only considered the
fundamental component.
We can now calculate the required
cut-off frequency to achieve this level
of attenuation from the relationship is
÷ ix = fc2 ÷ fsw2. Rearranging and substituting in the switching frequency
and currents gives us a filter cut-off
frequency of 31.3kHz. We can use this
to choose the filter components using
the equation fc = 1 ÷ 2π√Lf Cf.
However, we can’t just chose any
values for L and C, because we also
want to make sure that the filter’s
impedance Zf = √Lf ÷ Cf is significantly
siliconchip.com.au
smaller in magnitude that the converter’s (negative) input impedance to
minimise the probability of unwanted
behaviour.
The converter’s input impedance
is easily calculated by Ohm’s law to
be -2.4W (-12V ÷ 5A). If we therefore
choose Zf to be 0.2W and use both equations, we end up with a value for Lf of
1.01µH and for Cf of 25.4µF. We can
safely round these to 1µH and 25µF,
respectively.
Just out of interest, I simulated the
circuit with these values and without
any damping. I used a simple square
wave current source (no negative
impedance) and set the source impedance to zero, as per Fig.6(a). The result
is shown in Fig.6(b).
The switching frequency is certainly
attenuated significantly (you can’t
really see it), but the filter oscillates
with a peak-to-peak amplitude of 12A
at the resonant frequency. Clearly, we
do need to add the damping capacitor
and resistor.
Given the filter capacitance Cf is
25µF, would be convenient to set ξ to
4, making Cd a nice round 100µF. The
formulae in Fig.5 give us an optimum
value for Rd of 0.14W and a maximum
filter impedance of 0.17W.
This is not a huge amount of damping resistance, so it is possible that
some or all of it can come from the
damping capacitor’s ESR if you were
to use an electrolytic here – for once,
the ESR of a capacitor comes in handy!
I simulated the damped filter, with
the results as shown in Fig.7. Note
the difference in scales between the
damped and undamped responses.
You can see that the switching frequency ripple has been reduced to
about 50mA peak-to-peak, inline with
our design criteria, but there is some
Fig.5: the addition of a
damping resistor and
capacitor, as shown here,
is often necessary to
minimise the oscillation
in an LC filter. The
optimum values can be
determined from the
equations on the right.
Fig.6: the simulation
circuit (left) to check
the oscillation of an LC
filter. Without damping
(Cd and Rd omitted),
the filter oscillates at
its resonant frequency
and with an amplitude
of 12A peak-to-peak
(below).
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 43
residual ripple (200mA peak-to-peak)
at the filter’s resonant frequency.
Fortunately, this is well below the
bottom end of the EMI frequency
range, so it might be something we
could live with.
Common-mode input filters
A differential mode filter like this
will have no effect on common-mode
signals because there is a low impedance path for common-mode signals
through it via the ‘ground’ line. A
common-mode filter therefore has to
be effective on both conductors. This is
often achieved with the use of coupled
inductors, as shown in Fig.8. These
are also often called common-mode
inductors or common-mode chokes.
The windings are arranged such that
the flux produced by differential-mode
current cancels out, as shown at the
left of the figure, while that due to
common-mode currents adds up.
With perfect coupling, the differential-mode current, which includes
the relatively high operating current,
does not produce any flux in the core.
No flux means no differential-mode
inductance and no flux density, so
the core can be much smaller than it
would otherwise have to be.
With perfect coupling, common-
mode inductors present an inductance
to common-mode signals but appear
‘invisible’ to differential-mode signals.
Because the windings on these
inductors are often at high voltages
with respect to each other, they tend
to be wound on opposite sides of a
toroidal core, which means there will
be some leakage inductance, so in
reality there will be some meaningful
level of differential-mode inductance,
although lower than the common-
mode inductance.
You can see the common-mode
inductor with the blue core in Fig.14
towards the top of the picture. The
two windings and the spacing between
them are clearly visible.
Although it only produces a small
amount of flux, the differential-mode
current still flows through the windings, so they must be dimensioned
appropriately. Common-mode chokes
are not restricted to two windings;
three-winding common-mode chokes
are used to build filters for three-phase
systems, for example.
When we designed the differential-
mode filter above, we started with a
clear model of the source current ix
and worked from there. The source of
the common-mode currents is leakage
through circuit parasitics, so developing such a model is not really feasible.
The ‘right’ way to start the design
is to build the circuit without a filter
and measure the raw common-mode
noise across the spectrum of interest.
We could then use the limits in the
appropriate EMI standard to determine the required filter characteristic
and proceed from there.
Most of the time, this is not practical, and there are some practical
limitations on the design of mains
common-mode filters that mean that
many decisions are made for you. You
can usually therefore do a good enough
job by selecting ‘reasonable’ component values and validating through
testing.
Fig.9 shows a typical example of
a single-stage common-mode filter
designed for mains use, with the supply on the left and the converter (the
source of the common-mode noise current) on the right. The common-mode
inductance of L and the two Cy capacitors forms the common-mode filter. The leakage inductance of L and
the capacitor labelled Cx2 form a
differential-mode filter.
Capacitor Cx1 (not always present)
provides some filtering of noise coming into the converter and reduces the
input source impedance at higher frequencies. The resistor is there to discharge the capacitors when the mains
is removed so the mains plug does not
pose a shock hazard.
Class-X & Class-Y capacitors
Fig.7: adding the damping components reduced the ripple to 100mA peak-topeak. The 500kHz switching ripple is attenuated to approximately half of that.
Fig.8: a common-mode inductor has two windings arranged so that the
fluxes produced by differential-mode currents cancel and those due to
common-mode currents add.
44
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
It is no accident that I have labelled
the capacitors X and Y. It is mandatory to use safety-certified “Class X”
capacitors across the mains and “Class
Y” capacitors from Active (or Line) to
Earth. Apart from having appropriate
voltage ratings, these capacitors are
designed to fail safely.
Class Y capacitors have the most
stringent requirements; they are
required to fail open-circuit so that the
mains is never shorted to the device
enclosure, endangering the user. Class
X capacitors, on the other hand, are
often designed to fail short-
circuit.
You can use an appropriately rated
Class Y capacitor across the mains,
but you should never ever use a Class
X capacitor between Active/Live (or
Neutral) and Earth.
Safety-rated capacitors come in various sub-classes that denote the peak
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voltage they can tolerate. Lower subclass numbers mean higher voltage
capability. For our 230V mains voltage in Australia, you should use the
X2 and Y2 subclasses as a minimum.
The higher-rated X1 and Y1 subclasses
are also OK, but not strictly necessary.
Never use lower-subclass components or ones without the proper certification. You can easily recognise
safety-rated capacitors because their
cases are usually smothered in logos
from certification bodies.
The Class Y capacitors in a common-
mode filter provide a leakage path from
Active to Earth, so their maximum
value is dictated by the acceptable
leakage current at mains frequency.
Industrial products can usually have
a leakage current of no more than
0.5mA (at 250V AC), limiting Cy to a
maximum value of about 6nF. This is
why you will often see 2.2nF or 4.7nF
ceramic Class Y caps in these filters.
Class X capacitors can be larger;
220nF, 470nF or even 1µF values are
not unusual. Much larger than this,
and you run into problems discharging them fast enough. You can decrease
the value of the discharge resistor only
so far before its power dissipation
becomes a problem.
The higher Class X capacitance
means that these filters can provide
appreciable differential-mode filtering, even though the differential mode
inductance is lower. Typical filters
use common-mode inductors in the
0.33mH to 10mH range. If more attenuation is required, it is common to add
a second or even third stage in series,
rather than using larger inductors.
Power factor correction (PFC)
EMI filtering is concerned with
high-frequency harmonics, but you
will recall from the last article that
with a sinusoidal voltage source,
only the fundamental component of
the source current contributes usable
power (real power), designated ‹p›,
with units of watts.
The higher harmonic components of
current do however contribute to the
RMS value of current and therefore to
the ‘apparent power’, S, defined as the
product of RMS voltage and RMS current and having units of volt-amperes
(VA). The ratio of real power to apparent power, ‹p› ÷ S, is the definition of
power factor.
For unity power factor, the current
must not only have a purely sinusoidal
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: a typical common-mode
filter includes safety-rated Y-Class
capacitors from
Active to Earth
and X-Class
between Active
and Neutral. It is
really important
to use the correct
parts in these
critical locations.
Fig.10: a power factor correction circuit ‘spreads out’ the spiky current
waveform produced when the capacitor charges at the peak of the mains.
shape; it also has to be in phase with
the voltage. For example, an inductive load such as a motor will not
have unity power factor even though
the current is sinusoidal, because of
the phase shift between voltage and
current.
In this case, correcting the power
factor can be as simple as adding a
capacitor of appropriate value across
the load to bring the phase shift
between voltage and current back to
zero. This is known as passive power
factor correction.
Things are not this simple with
AC-DC converters, as we saw last time.
The most common arrangement of a
full bridge followed by a capacitive
filter results in a current waveform
with narrow spikes near the voltage
peaks, corresponding to the period in
which the capacitor is charged. This
is illustrated in Fig.10.
Active power factor correction aims
to spread these peaks and make the
overall source current waveform more
sinusoidal in shape. Pushing current
into the filter capacitor while the input
voltage (shown dotted in red) is lower
than the DC voltage implies that the
PFC circuit must be capable of producing an output voltage higher than
its input. The obvious candidate is a
boost converter.
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.11 shows the typical circuit of
an active power factor corrector. A
boost converter is interposed between
the rectified mains input and the load
(often another DC-DC converter). The
boost converter is driven by a current-
mode modulator, as shown in the diagram at the bottom of Fig.11. Crucially,
its input reference current is forced
into a ‘rectified sine’ shape.
Thus, the boost converter produces a
steady DC voltage across C1, but draws
a roughly rectified-sinewave-shaped
current through L1, and thus a nearsinewave-shaped current from the
source.
The current-mode modulator monitors the inductor current and controls
the Mosfet’s on-time to make the current track the reference current, which
is the output of the error amplifier/
compensator multiplied by the rectified sine signal. This latter is derived
from the mains so that the input current is in phase with the voltage, resulting in a very good power factor.
The load voltage must be higher
than the peak of the mains, so it is normally set to about 400V. This allows
for a wide range of AC input voltages
– say, from 90V AC to 280V AC.
You don’t have to use a boost converter, although this is by far the most
popular topology due to its simplicity.
March 2026 45
Fig.11: the PFC converter uses a
current-mode boost converter to
generate the output voltage. The
reference current is modulated
to shape the inductor
current into a ‘rectified
sinewave’ shape so
the input current is
sinusoidal.
Fig.12: there are several alternative PFC topologies like these, but
they all work on the same basic principle as that shown in Fig.11.
You obviously can’t use a buck converter because it does not work when
its input voltage is lower than its output, a state that will occur near every
zero-crossing.
PFC variants
There are of course many variations
on this theme, several of which I have
shown in Fig.12. On the left is the
interleaved power factor correction
circuit. You can see that this is really
two parallel boost converters, which
are normally driven 180° out of phase
with each other, feeding a common filter capacitor.
This has the advantage of higher
output power and effectively doubles
the switching frequency as seen at the
input, simplifying the input filtering.
The next variant is described a
“bridgeless” PFC converter, but this is
46
Silicon Chip
a bit of a misnomer since the upper two
diodes plus Mosfets and their body
diodes clearly form a bridge rectifier.
The functions of the rectifier and boost
converter are integrated, providing
better efficiency since several diode
drops are eliminated.
It can also be thought of as two boost
converters in parallel, although this
time each one is operating on alternate half-cycles. In theory, you can get
away with a single inductor in one leg,
but at the cost of increased common-
mode EMI.
An even more efficient variant is the
so-called “totem-pole” architecture.
Here, one Mosfet acts as a synchronous rectifier each half-cycle while the
other is switching. This is more efficient than the bridgeless PFC because
a Mosfet can have a much lower voltage drop than a diode.
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An even more efficient version uses
four Mosfets, eliminating diodes altogether. There is a penalty to pay in
terms of complexity with totem-pole
PFC converters because they require
a high-side driver.
A practical PFC converter
It is a bit beyond the scope of this
article to run through the complete
design of a PFC converter, but we can
do the next best thing and take a look
at a real example from an evaluation
board; in this case, an EVL-4986-350W
from ST Microelectronics (Fig.14).
This is a 350W boost-converter type
PFC based on the L4986 IC, a very
typical example of the type of chip
that is readily available these days.
The circuit, redrawn from the EVL4986-350W data brief, is reproduced
in Fig.13.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.13: this circuit of the EVL4986-350W PFC evaluation board
redrawn from its data brief. See the
text for a full description.
The mains input on the left is fused
by F1 and protected by metal-oxide
varistor (MOV) RV1. It is then fed
through a common-mode filter consisting of two X2 capacitors and common-
mode choke L3. This filter is missing
its Class Y capacitors because this circuit has no mains Earth connection.
There will be some common-mode
rejection due to the voltage divider
formed common-mode impedance of
L3 and the common-mode load impedance (50W during EMI measurement).
Diodes D8 and D9 connect the AC
input to the HV pin on the controller. This pin is capable of withstanding up to 800V AC and serves several
purposes.
Firstly, it is involved in the startup
of the controller. If a voltage exceeding
about 29V is sensed on this pin, the
capacitors on the Vcc pin are charged
from it via an internal current limiter
until it reaches a voltage sufficient for
the control chip to start.
Once the PFC converter is up and
running, the Vcc pin is supplied by the
auxiliary winding on the boost inductor L1, via a 100W series resistor, 100nF
AC-coupling capacitor and diode D7.
Zener diode D6 limits the Vcc voltage
to a maximum of about 18V.
The HV pin is also used to sense
the AC voltage for the undervoltage/
brownout protection circuit and to
provide the modulation required to
shape the input current. The HV pin
can also detect when the mains is
removed and switch in a current sink
to discharge the X-capacitors, obviating the need for a discharge resistor
and its associated power dissipation.
That’s a lot of functions for one pin!
The AC input is rectified by a 15A
600V bridge rectifier (D3) mounted on
one of the two heatsinks. The rectifier is followed by a differential-mode
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filter comprising L2 and a 1μF capacitor, which reduces the fundamental
of the 65kHz switching noise at the
input by a factor of around eight and
the higher harmonics by a proportionally greater factor.
The boost converter consists of the
inductor L1, Mosfet Q1 and diode
D1, with one 470nF and two 100μF
capacitors forming its output filter.
Diode D2 precharges these capacitors
when the mains is first applied so that
the boost converter can start up much
faster than it would if it had to charge
them from zero.
The 1W cold resistance of the NTC
thermistor limits the capacitor inrush
current, but as current flows through
it in operation, the resistance drops
by a couple of orders of magnitude
and it can be more-or-less ignored.
The Mosfet current is sensed
across the three parallel 0.22W
shunt resistors below L2. The
resulting (negative) shunt
voltage is fed via a 51W resistor to the
controller IC, where it is compared to
the current reference to determine the
Mosfet switch-off instant. If the CS pin
voltage falls below -0.49V, an internal
overcurrent comparator overrides the
modulator, limiting the peak current
to about 6.7A.
The Mosfet gate is driven via 3.9W
and 6.8W resistors, plus diode D4. This
network allows for separate control of
the Mosfet’s switch-on and switch-off
times. Q1’s gate is charged (to switch it
on) via just the 6.8W resistor but is discharged via both resistors
in parallel, compensating for the
Fig.14: the PFC evaluation
board described in the text.
The input connector is hidden
behind the large boost inductor,
and the output connector is at the front right.
Australia's electronics magazine
47
Type II compensator, which has
two poles and one zero. For
more details, see the second
article in this series, published
in the December 2025 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/19370).
The compensator poles and
zeroes are positioned to provide
dominant-pole compensation to
the overall open-loop gain.
The red line in Fig.15 shows the
frequency response of the PFC’s
Fig.15: the compensator for the PFC
modulator and output filter. This
converter is similar to that for a
has a single pole at fco, determined
conventional DC-DC converter. The
by the converter’s output capaccrossover frequency must be lower than
itance and its load resistance,
100Hz or the control loop will try to
and a zero formed by the output
eliminate the modulation we need to
capacitance and its ESR. The outshape the input current.
put capacitance is 200µF and the
fact that the STF36N60M6 has a much
minimum load resistance is 457W
slower inherent switch-off time (50ns) (400V2 ÷ 350W), so the pole occurs at
than its switch-on time (15ns).
about 1.74Hz.
Output voltage feedback is proWe don’t need to worry about the
vided to the FB pin on the controller frequency of the zero formed by the
IC (U1) by the divider formed by the output capacitance and its ESR for reathree 2.2MW resistors, together with sons that will become apparent soon.
the series/parallel combination of four
The cyan/blue line shows the
different-
value resistors to ground desired open-loop gain required for
(16kW, 100kW, 30kW & 360kW).
stability, rolling off at a steady -20dB
This feedback voltage is internally per decade from the origin (effectively
compared to a 2.5V reference to cre- DC), then taking a turn down to -40dB
ate the error signal. Like the current per decade at frequency fp.
sense input, an independent comparIn a normal converter, we would
ator shuts the boost converter off if the position this pole to cancel the filfeedback voltage exceeds the reference ter’s ESR zero to maximise the bandby more than about 7%.
width of the control loop. However,
If the voltage at the feedback pin for PFC converters, we have to limit
falls below about 0.5V, the controller the loop bandwidth so the crossover
enters ‘external burst mode’, in which frequency (the frequency where loop
switching is inhibited. This prevents gain falls to 0dB) is below twice the
the output voltage from rising uncon- mains frequency.
trollably in the case that the voltage
We have to do this so the control
sense resistors become open-circuit loop does not respond to the 100Hz
and also allows an external control- ripple on the output and try to counler to switch the converter off via Q4. teract the very modulation we are relyThis feature might be used to reduce
ing on to shape the current.
power when a following converter was
The compensator’s second pole (the
disabled or had a very light load. Dis- first is at the origin) is therefore typiabling and enabling the PFC in this cally placed at some frequency, fp, that
way is fast because the control chip forces the crossover frequency to be
does not go through the whole start-up
Fig.16; the upper
procedure each time.
trace
shows the PFC
The voltage feedback divider douconverter’s input current
bles as an input for the controller’s
at near full load. The
power-good comparator. If the voltage
current is similar in
at the PGIN terminal exceeds 2.375V,
shape to the input
the open collector ‘power good’ (PG)
voltage shown below.
pin is asserted low.
The measured power
Compensation
less than 100Hz. The filter zero caused
by the output capacitance and its ESR
is therefore more-or-less irrelevant
since the control loop is not effective
at this frequency.
The evaluation board’s compensator
has its zero set by the 62kW resistor and
1.5µF capacitor near to 1.71Hz – pretty
much bang on the output capacitance/
load resistance pole. The upper pole
is set to 17.1Hz by the 62kW resistor
and 150nF capacitor, well below the
100Hz ripple frequency.
I have not mentioned transistor Q3
and its associated base drive components yet. The controller chip has a
threshold detector on the COMP pin
that shuts down the PFC converter if
the voltage is below about 0.5V. This
can be used to stop and start the converter, but unlike Burst Mode control,
the converter goes through a full softstart cycle when enabled.
Testing
I tested the PFC evaluation board on
my bench with a 500W load. The current and voltage waveforms are shown
in Fig.16. The current (green trace) is
certainly close to a sinusoid, but has
some visible vestiges of switching ripple. Its shape tracks the input voltage
(yellow trace) almost exactly, including its slightly flat top caused by all
those non-PFC converters on my line.
The RMS current and voltage measurements on the right must each be
scaled by a factor of 10 for 243V and
1.33A respectively, giving an apparent
power of 323W. The average DC voltage and current in the load measured
396.7V and 0.785A, respectively, for
a real power of 311.4W. The resulting
power factor is 0.96, which is about as
good as we could expect.
We have now covered DC-DC converters and AC-DC converters in a fair
bit of depth. Next time, we will dive
into the interesting world of DC-AC
SC
converters.
factor was 0.96.
The internal error amplifier’s compensation is set by the network hanging off its pin 8. This forms a classic
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
By Tim Blythman
Decoder
Base Station
Using DCC
Remote Controller
DCC Booster
So far in this series we have produced a DCC Decoder, Base Station and a Remote Controller unit
for the Base Station. The logical progression is a DCC Booster to supply more current and power
the track in independent sections. We can also use it as an Automatic Reverse Loop Controller and
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-model-train-on-a-track-with-a-bridge-in-the-background-ADYqbbcjsyk
even a Simple Base Station.
DCC Booster
and Reverse Loop Controller
A
DCC Booster allows the expansion of a
DCC system by providing an extra
driver supplying more current
than can be delivered by a single Base
Station. It should have current sensing to allow it to isolate faults such as
short circuits on the track.
Another handy thing to have in a
DCC system is a reverse loop controller. Certain track arrangements can be
prone to short circuits due to the train
bridging the circuits of the two tracks.
If your track has a so-called balloon
loop or three-way Y junction, it will
probably benefit from a reverse loop
controller.
In October 2012, we published the
Reverse Loop Controller For DCC
Model Railways (see siliconchip.au/
Features & Specifications
🛤 Compact unit fits in a UB5 Jiffy Box
🛤 Simple LED indications
🛤 Optional detailed OLED display
🛤 DCC Booster mode
🛤 Reverse Loop Controller mode
🛤 Simple Base Station mode
🛤 Trip current adjustable in 100mA steps
up to 9.9A
🛤 Track voltage: standard range of 8-22V
🛤 Track current: up to 10A (5A with DC
jack input)
siliconchip.com.au
Article/494). That design used a relay
to switch the polarity of an existing
DCC track signal.
By adding polarity control to our
DCC Booster, we can combine these
functions into a single unit that can
provide the automatic polarity switching and offer extra current drive for
the track. Thus, the DCC Booster also
becomes the Reverse Loop Controller.
We have chosen to implement these
features with a microcontroller, which
makes it possible to generate a DCC
signal. Rather than adding a complex
user interface, this unit can simply be
connected to a DCC Remote Controller to provide the packets that are to
be sent to the track. So this unit can
also be used as a Simple Base Station.
While it has multiple functions, we
will refer to the subject of this article
as the Booster, or the Simple Base Station when it is working in base station
mode. The earlier project in this series
will continue to be known as the Base
Station.
The completed unit you see in the
photos can operate standalone, but
the bare board is well-suited to being
installed under a control panel or similar. All modes can be configured to
power on automatically, so there is no
need for such boards to be accessible
once they are set up.
We envisage these units might be
used in a layout with multiple Boosters and/or Reverse Loop Controllers.
We’ll focus on building the complete
DCC PROJECT KITS
DCC Decoder, December 2025 (SC7524, $25)
includes everything in the parts list
DCC Base Station, January 2026 (SC7539, $90)
includes everything in the parts list, except for the case, power supply, glue
and the CON4 & CON5 headers
DCC Remote Controller, February 2026 (SC7552, $35)
includes all required parts, except for the UB5 case and wire/cable
DCC Booster & Reverse Loop Controller (SC7579, $45)
includes all required parts, except for the Jiffy box, OLED screen, power
supply and front panel. The OLED screen (SC7484, $7.50) and front panel
(SC7578, $5.00) are available separately.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 49
Fig.1: this circuit has much in common with the Base
Station and serves much the same purpose, since it can
also behave as a Simple Base Station. The CON1 DCC input
allows it to receive and repeat DCC signals.
standalone unit in an enclosure and
allow experienced readers the freedom to utilise the bare board as they
see fit.
Circuit details
The Booster circuit (Fig.1) has much
in common with the DCC Base Station.
IC1 is the PIC16F18146 microcontroller that controls the circuit. Although
it can work with a 5V supply, we have
chosen to use 3.3V to maintain compatibility with the Remote Controller,
which needs a 3.3V supply.
IC1 receives 3.3V power at its pins 1
and 20, with these and pins 4, 18 and
19 also connecting to ICSP (in-circuit
serial programming) header CON6.
IC1’s supply is bypassed by a 100nF
capacitor, while a 10kW resistor pulls
pin 4 (MCLR) up to allow normal
operation unless overridden by a programmer.
Like the Base Station, the main DCC
50
Silicon Chip
output is driven by a pair of BTN8962
half-bridge drivers, IC2 & IC3, which
are controlled from pins 6, 7 & 8 of IC1
via 1kW series resistors. The resistors
are provided to limit the current flowing into the microcontroller if there is
a serious fault. The DCCOUTEN line
is pulled low by a 100kW resistor to
shut down both drivers until driven
by the micro.
The DCC output is available at screw
terminals CON2 and also drives bi-
colour LED1 via its 2.2kW series resistor. The 100nF capacitors provide
local bypassing for IC2 and IC3. The
IS pins of the drivers source current
in proportion to the driver output current, so the IS currents are combined
by dual diode D1 and passed through
a 1kW resistor to convert the current
to a voltage.
This voltage is then smoothed by the
10kW resistor and 100nF capacitor. It
goes to pin 15 of IC1 (ANC1) to allow
Australia's electronics magazine
it to be sensed. Pin 15 is both an ADC
(analog-to-digital converter) input and
an input to a comparator internal to
IC1. The ADC is used to measure this
current and also the supply voltage
noted earlier. We’ll get to the comparator feature shortly.
The incoming DCC signal comes in
at CON1 and connects to pins 3 and
5 on IC1 via 100nF capacitors and
10kW series resistors. The resistors
limit the current that can flow into
the microcontroller, while the capacitors allow the incoming DCC to ‘float’
at a different reference voltage. They
AC-couple the signal, with DC biasing by the protection diodes internal
to the micro.
I/O pins 2, 9 and 10 are connected
to tactile switches S1-S3 and are supplied with internal pullup currents by
IC1. The switches connect to ground,
so they pull those pins low when the
buttons are pressed. Status indicator
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LED2 is driven by IC1’s pin 11 digital
output via its series resistor.
Pins 14 and 16 of IC1 connect to
MOD1, an I2C OLED module, while
pins 12 and 13 connect to CON5, an
RJ45 socket intended to connect to a
Remote Controller. These two pins
also have 2.2kW pullup resistors to
the 3.3V rail.
Pins 12, 13, 14 and 16 go to four
jumper headers on JP1, with the other
pins on JP1 connected to ground.
There are a few different firmware
modes, but the main distinction is
that the OLED module and RJ45 socket
cannot be used at the same time as
JP1, since the pins would conflict.
Basically, JP1 provides some configuration options in the absence of the
OLED screen.
Power supply
The incoming power supply circuitry is much the same as the DCC
Base Station too, with DC jack CON4
in parallel with screw terminals
CON3. The power comes through fuse
F1 to the nominal 15V rail bypassed
by a 1000μF capacitor. Like the Base
Station, the 15V rail can actually be
between 8V and 22V.
Diode D2 is connected in reverse
across the supply rails to blow the fuse
in the event of reverse polarity being
applied. A 10kW:1kW divider with a
1μF capacitor across the lower leg is
used to reduce the supply voltage to a
level that can be measured by a 3.3V
microcontroller at its ANA2 analog
input (pin 17). So far, this is all practically identical to the Base Station.
LED3 is connected across the 15V
rail with a series resistor for power
indication. A simple linear regulator
and its 100μF capacitor provide the
3.3V rail for the microcontroller and
associated circuitry, since this unit
We recommend starting
construction with the
two driver ICs, IC2
and IC3. Note the
fuse located on the
rear of the PCB for
easy access in case
it blows.
does not require as
much current on the
logic-level rail.
If you are using this unit
as a Booster or Reverse Controller, your power supply voltage
should be similar to that of your Base
Station and able to provide enough
current for your purposes. You might
use a 5-10A supply for a Booster.
Above 5A, use the CON3 screw terminals, since CON4 can’t safely handle
more than 5A.
A Reverse Loop Controller might
not need as much current, since it
could be just powering a section of
track big enough to handle a single
train. It might be reasonable to piggyback it off the supply that is powering
the Base Station in this case, but you
would need to take care with the current limits. There’s no harm in picking a bigger supply, since the current
limit can be set lower.
The Booster draws around 25mA on
its 3.3V rail when the OLED is operating. With a 12V supply, you should be
able to add one or two Remote Controllers to a Simple Base Station before the
dissipation is more than the 500mW
that REG1’s TO-92 case can handle.
Internal logic
Newer microcontrollers like the
PIC16F18146 have a vast array of
peripherals; in fact, there are probably
more peripherals available than pins
to route them to! The internal CLC
(configurable logic cell) unit allows
pins and other peripherals to be connected via logic elements. We used
the CLC in the Digital Boost Regulator
from December 2022 (siliconchip.au/
Article/15588).
Once configured, the CLC operates completely independently of the
processor. Fig.2 shows the equivalent logic that is implemented in the
CLC in this project. We have included
the comparator, which is a separate
peripheral to the CLC.
We use three of the four available
CLC instances for this project. The
upper circuit with the comparator is
used in all modes and at all times. Note
that the black labels refer to the lines
marked in Fig.1.
The blue labels are signals internal
to the microcontroller; in effect, they
do not require an external pin, and are
controlled by software or other peripherals. For example, the latch can be set
or cleared (with the SET SIGNAL or
RESET SIGNAL) to manually switch
on or off the DCCOUTEN line and thus
the DCC drivers.
The comparator output is one of 40
internal signals that can be routed to
the CLC input array. It’s even possible to use CLC outputs as inputs to
other instances to create more complex logic.
Fig.2: the black labels refer
to signals in Fig.1, while the
blue signals are internal to the
microcontroller.
This shows the PCB fitted with
all parts except the OLED
module. The LEDs and tactile
switches should be installed
with the front panel in place so
they can be accurately aligned.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 51
The DCC Booster/Reverse Loop
Controller fits in a compact Jiffy box
or can be used as a bare board if needed on a large
layout (with the front panel affixed to a hole in your layout’s control
panel to integrate it). Adding a Remote Controller unit allows it to operate as a
Simple Base Station. Note that the photo shown above is not at actual size.
Table 1 – modes and construction options
Mode
Parts to be omitted
Notes
Booster with no display
OLED and header,
RJ45 socket, S3
Reverse Loop Controller with
no display
OLED and header,
RJ45 socket, S3
Leave off the OLED, RJ45 socket
and S3 if you are only planning to
use the modes without a display.
Booster with display
RJ45 socket, JP1
Reverse Loop Controller with
display
RJ45 socket, JP1
Simple Base Station with
display
CON1 (DCC in), JP1
To allow the option of using any of
the modes with a display, all parts
should be fitted except JP1. At
least one DCC Remote Controller
is needed to use the Simple Base
Station mode.
Depending on how you want to use this project, you can assemble the board
without some of the parts, as indicated here.
Table 2 – jumper settings for modes without an OLED screen
JP1a (REV) JP1b (+1) JP1c (+2) JP1d (+4) Notes
OFF
Booster mode operating; LED2 will flash
once at startup
ON
Reverse Loop Controller mode operating;
LED2 will flash twice at startup
OFF
OFF
OFF
Current limit is 1A
ON
OFF
OFF
Current limit is 2A
OFF
ON
OFF
Current limit is 3A
ON
ON
OFF
Current limit is 4A
OFF
OFF
ON
Current limit is 5A
ON
OFF
ON
Current limit is 6A
OFF
ON
ON
Current limit is 8A
ON
ON
ON
Current limit is 10A
Without the OLED, JP1a sets the mode while the others define the current limit.
52
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
For clarity, the representations in
Fig.2 are simplified versions of the
logic. For example, the DAC voltage is
actually applied to the non-inverting
input of the comparator, and the comparator is configured with an inverted
output to achieve the behaviour shown
in the diagram. The multiplexer is
implemented with an AND-OR gate
arrangement.
The DAC on this chip has an 8-bit
resolution and is configured to use a
2.048V reference, so the DAC OUTPUT
can be set in 8mV steps (2048mV ÷
256). The voltage at DCCOUTI changes
in proportion to the current supplied
by the driver ICs, with 8mV corresponding to steps of around 80mA.
The arrangement shown in Fig.2
means that when the current exceeds
the set point, the comparator output goes high, the latch is reset and
the drivers are disabled much more
quickly than if the checks were done
in software. The software can read the
state of the DCCOUTEN line to report
the fact that a trip has occurred.
The second circuit is used to swap
the polarity of the DCC signal when
the reverse loop controller is active.
If POLARITY is low, DCCINA controls DCCOUTA and DCCINB controls
DCCOUTB. If POLARITY is high, the
two multiplexers swap these, effectively flipping the DCC signal polarity
(relative to the input).
We have briefly touched on the
need for this in previous DCC articles,
but now we have the opportunity to
examine a concrete example. The top
of Fig.3 shows a so-called balloon
loop. The train would typically enter
on the left and pass around the loop
clockwise before exiting at left, but it
could travel in the opposite direction.
The problem is that the wheels
that travel on the outside of the loop
(contacting DCCOUTA) come in contact with DCCINA when entering
and DCCINB when exiting. This may
only be brief, but it is typical that all
wheels along one side of a locomotive
are joined together to improve current
collection from the track. The triangle junction below also shows this
problem.
So the Booster must detect the conflict and toggle the polarity when the
wheels bridge rails that are of opposing
polarities. In practice, if it detects an
overcurrent condition (such as might
be caused by a short circuit), it toggles the polarity; if the fault persists,
siliconchip.com.au
the power trips off momentarily. If
flipping the polarity clears the fault,
all is well.
The multiplexer circuit is also used
to feed the DCC signal from CON1
to CON2 when the circuit is operating in booster mode. In this case, the
polarity is fixed at ‘0’ so that DCCINA
drives DCCOUTA and DCCINB drives
DCCOUTB.
Firmware
There are five distinct operating
modes that the Booster firmware can
run in. When it starts up, the mode is
fixed until the next time the processor
is reset or restarts. Table 1 lists the five
modes and the parts that can be omitted during construction if you intend
to use only that mode. You can refer to
the parts list for other options.
There is no reason that all parts cannot be fitted, but remember that any
jumper shunts that are installed will
conflict with the respective pins on the
OLED display and RJ45 socket. Since
there are Booster and Reverser modes
that can use the display, the most flexible option is to fit the OLED module
and leave off the header for JP1.
Each mode is fixed at startup, so the
firmware is effectively broken down
into five different subprograms. Some
of them share functions; for example,
the two reverse loop controller modes
share a common routine that checks
whether the comparator has been triggered and decides whether to flip the
polarity or shut the power off for the
trip period.
In the modes with no display, JP1 is
used for setting the mode and trip current. We’ll get into more details about
how the modes work once the unit is
assembled. Note that pushbutton S3
need not be fitted in the modes that
do not have a display, since it is used
to escape from these modes.
The first header on JP1 (JP1a) is used
to set whether the booster or reverse
loop controller mode is run; having
the jumper on selects reverse loop
controller mode. After this, the three
remaining jumpers allow eight combinations and thus eight trip-current settings. We have programmed them for
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10 amps. Table 2
summarises these selections.
Holding S1 or S2 during startup
will change the EEPROM setting that
determines whether the DCC output is
started automatically when power is
applied. During operation, S1 and S2
siliconchip.com.au
will switch the output on or off, and
LED2 will reflect this state. During
startup without the OLED module,
LED2 also lights, flashing once for
Booster mode and twice for Reverse
Loop Controller mode.
Display
Since the jumper shunts are not
available if a display is fitted, S3 is
used to access different menus that
can be used to alter the settings. The
normal display screen shows the
mode, supply voltage and DCC output (CON2) current. There is also
a description of the state that can
indicate, amongst other things, if an
over-current trip has occurred.
We will look at these screens later
once construction is complete. Unless
you are building several Boosters or
Reverse Loop Controllers that will
be hidden from sight, such as being
distributed around a large layout, we
recommend that you build the version
with the display.
The display means that more information is available for troubleshooting, and the settings allow the mode
to be easily changed if you do want
to try them out. If you are using the
Booster as a Simple Base Station, you
must have the display fitted.
To accompany a Simple Base Station, you will also need to build at
least one of the DCC Remote Controllers, since these will provide the DCC
packets that are sent to the track. If
no packets are received on the RJ45
socket, idle packets will be sent out
to ensure there is always valid data
on the track.
Construction
We’ll cover assembly of the main
PCB listing the parts that we have fitted
Fig.3: this balloon loop is one example of a track layout that means a reverse
controller is needed. The three-way triangle junction is another common
example; note how a train taking the curve on the left requires a different
relative polarity to a train taking the curve on the right.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 53
Figs.4 & 5: the PCB
for this project has
a mix of SMD and
through-hole parts
on both sides, so pay
attention and watch
the orientations of
the polarised parts.
to our prototype, which is everything
in the Parts List, so skip fitting any
parts that you’ve determined you don’t
need. The main PCB, coded 09111248
and measuring 45 × 79mm, will have
SMD parts fitted to the back, then the
front, followed by most of the throughhole components.
Figs.4 & 5 are the overlay diagrams
for the PCBs that you can use as a
guide during assembly. The LEDs and
switches depend on the front panel for
alignment, so temporarily attach the
panel and use it to align these parts
when you are fitting them. A header
is used for the OLED module to provide extra height, and so that it can be
detached if needed.
For the SMD parts, we suggest having the standard SMD gear on hand,
including flux paste, a fume extractor,
a magnifier, solder wicking braid and
some tweezers. Start by fitting IC2 and
IC3, the driver ICs. You may need to
turn up your iron or apply extra heat
from a hot air tool, since they sit on
large copper areas on the PCB.
Add flux to the pads and rest one of
the driver ICs in place. Tack one of the
smaller leads and adjust it to get the
position right. Then solder the large
tab in place, keeping the iron on the
part until the solder flows freely along
the width of the tab.
Give the solder a moment to harden,
then solder the remaining smaller pins.
Fit the other driver IC after that. Follow
with IC1, the microcontroller, being
sure to align the pin 1 marking with
that on the PCB. Tack one lead, align
the part and then solder the remaining
leads. Solder the BAT54C diode next to
IC1 using the same technique.
Four of the 100nF capacitors are on
this side, along with the only 1μF part.
Solder these next. Ten of the resistors
are also on this side of the PCB. They
will be printed with codes that correspond to their values (eg, 1kW = 102
or 1001).
Flip the PCB over and solder the
other two 100nF capacitors and carefully work through the remaining six
resistors.
Next, mount the fuse holder to the
back of the PCB. This location allows
it to be easily accessed without having
to fully disassemble the unit. It helps
to fit the fuse while soldering, since
this will align the pins and ensure that
the tabs are correctly orientated, too.
Next, solder the through-hole parts
except the OLED and its headers, the
LEDs and the tactile switches. We’ll
fit these later while aligning them to
the enclosure and front panel. Work
upwards in order of height. Fit D2 with
its cathode stripe orientated as shown,
then solder it and trim its leads flush
with the PCB. If you need to fit JP1 or
the CON6 ICSP header, do so next.
Follow with any of CON1, CON2,
CON3 and CON4 that you need, ensuring the terminal block entries face the
outside of the board. Also solder in the
two electrolytic capacitors and REG1,
being careful to observe their polarities. Be sure to bend the leads of the
1000μF part correctly; the longer lead
is positive. Then, snap the RJ45 socket
(CON5) into place and carefully solder its leads.
At this stage, the PCB is complete
enough to allow IC1 to be programmed
Our prototype has all components fitted, but you should refer to Table 1 and the
parts list to check which are able to be left off.
54
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
if required. Microcontrollers bought
from our Online Shop, including in
kits, come pre-programmed. If you
need to program it, power can be supplied from CON3, CON4 (eg, 12V at the
DC jack) or 3.3V from the programmer
via the ICSP header.
If you are only using the modes
that do not require the display, you
are probably not too concerned about
using the panel PCB and you will
probably have specific ideas about fitting the Booster as part of an existing
panel; perhaps running flying leads
to the LEDs and switches. Remember
that you do not need to install S3 if a
display is not fitted.
LEDs through their holes in the panel
and solder them in place. We found
that 17mm tactile switches (which
are about the longest that are easily
available) only just clear the panel if
mounted flat. We were able to get some
extra height by raising them slightly
off the PCB before soldering. Our kits
include 18mm switches so that should
not be necessary.
Take off the panel and attach the
socket header to the OLED module’s
pins and place that onto the PCB. Refit
the panel, secure it and use it to align
the OLED module before soldering its
pins too.
Hardware
Fig.6 shows the cutting and drilling
needed to fit the assembly into a UB5
Jiffy box, while Fig.7 is a 3D render of
the case, so you can check that you are
working on the correct faces of the box.
The round hole for the DC jack can be
made with a drill. We prefer to drill a
small pilot hole with a twist drill and
then enlarge that with a step drill.
The vertical cuts can be made using
a fine saw. Use a sharp blade to score
the horizontal lines, and then the tab
can be carefully snapped off using
wide-nosed pliers. Take care with the
slots for CON1 and CON2 since they
are only separated by a thin tab of
plastic, which can be easily snapped
off accidentally.
If you are mounting the unit in a case
with a display, we suggest fitting the
tapped spacers to position the panel
PCB and align the LEDs and tactile
switches. The relatively long 16mm
tapped spacers are only needed to
achieve clearance for the RJ45 socket.
Fit the spacers on the top side of
the PCB, secured from behind with
machine screws. Thread the switches
and LEDs into their holes and then
attach the panel PCB with the remaining machine screws. Watch the polarity of LED2 and LED3, but note that the
polarity of LED1 does not matter due
to the alternating DCC signal.
Now you can accurately position the
Cutting and drilling
The slots for CON1 and CON2 will
align with the internal bosses for PCB
mounting (which are not used in this
project). So it might take some extra
effort to snap the plastic, since it will
be thicker in these locations.
Finally, fit the PCB and panel assembly into the case and secure it with the
screws that are supplied with the case.
Operation with no display
The initial setting of the Booster and
Reverse Loop Controller is to operate
in the mode that does not require a
display.
Since the jumper shunts are only
checked when the micro starts up,
which will typically be when power
is applied, it’s a good idea to power off
the Booster, change the jumpers and
then reapply power.
Booster mode (with the REV jumper
left off) will cause LED2 to flash once.
When the REV jumper is fitted, LED2
will flash twice at startup and the
Reverse Loop Controller is started.
You can also set whether the CON2
DCC output is enabled at power-on by
holding in S1 (on) or S2 (off) during
startup. S1 and S2 are used to switch
the DCC output on or off during normal operation.
You’ll need a valid DCC signal of
some sort applied to CON1. Otherwise, LED2 will flash at 1Hz. If this
is flashing with a low duty cycle or is
Fig.6: to create a standalone device,
you can cut a UB5 Jiffy box as
shown here and use our 09111249
PCB as a front panel.
Fig.7: you can check the locations of your cuts against this diagram.
If you are building this project as a Simple Base Station, you can omit
CON1 and the corresponding panel cutout.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 55
Screen 1: the screens are simple
and provide a handy amount of
information, including supply voltage
and DCC track current.
Screen 2: the trip current can be
set in steps of 100mA. The figure at
upper right is the raw DAC setting
calculated by the microcontroller.
Screen 3: the current measuring offset
that is applied by the BTN8962 driver
ICs can be manually adjusted on this
page.
Screen 4: the offset can also be
automatically determined on this
screen. Note that this will require
track power to be shut off.
Screen 5: if the AUTOPOWER setting
is enabled, the DCC track output
drivers will be active as soon as
power is applied.
Screen 6: the main operating mode
can be set here. NO OLED refers to the
first two modes listed in Table 1.
Screen 7: since the mode is only
checked at startup, this page can
be used to reset and restart the
microcontroller after a mode change.
Screen 8: in Booster mode, the word
BOOST is shown and ERROR might
be displayed if a valid DCC signal is
not detected.
Screen 9: the Reverse Loop Controller
mode shows REV as the mode, as well
as a symbol to indicate whether the
polarity has been flipped.
fully off, the DCC output at CON2 is
off. Flashing with a high duty cycle
or being fully lit means that the DCC
output is enabled.
LED1 is powered directly from the
DCC signal, so should be lit up both
red and green (appearing yellow) if the
DCC output is on. If only one colour is
showing on LED1, then there may be
a wiring fault or a problem with the
DCC signal.
If LED2 is lit and LED1 is off and
flickering on briefly, there is probably a short circuit caused by the trip
limit being exceeded. With everything
operating normally, both LED1 and
LED2 should be either solidly on or
solidly off.
The current-measuring offset parameter can be automatically calibrated. To
do this, short the lower left pad of S3
to ground or press S3 if it is fitted. The
DCC output will shut off and LED2 will
flicker for two seconds, after which the
calibration runs.
If all is well, LED2 will light up for
a second and switch off. Otherwise,
no changes are made. The offset can
vary with supply voltage, so it’s a good
idea to use your normal operating supply while performing this calibration.
These indications are quite terse;
the messages shown on the OLED are
more helpful, so let’s have a look at
those modes next. Most of the settings
shown on the OLED screen are also
used in the modes that do not use the
OLED, so it is possible to temporarily
fit an OLED for setup purposes and
then remove it later.
followed by an offset value, which
should be around 4A, but could be
anywhere between 1A and 9A. If there
is a problem, try again and check your
construction in case there are any
problems.
This can also be manually configured using a similar process to the
Base Station from Part 2 of this series.
Use Screen 2 to set the TRIP limit to
9A and Screen 3 to set the OFFSET to
0A. Cycle back to Screen 1 and press
S1 to switch on the DCC output. Note
the displayed current and change the
Screen 3 OFFSET to that value.
If you return to Screen 1, the displayed current should now be zero.
Use S2 to switch off the DCC output
and reset the TRIP limit to a suitable
value, such as 5A or lower if the controller is being powered from the DC
jack. If the OFFSET is not between 1A
and 9A, there may be a construction
problem. Screen 5 allows you to set
the DCC output to switch on automatically at startup.
The settings on Screens 3, 4 and
5 are also used in headless mode, so
temporarily fitting an OLED module is
a way of setting up the Booster with
confidence. Let’s have a look at the
individual modes.
56
Silicon Chip
Display modes
Before attempting to use the modes
that use the OLED display, make sure
that no shunts are fitted to JP1. Don’t
connect anything to CON2 (DCC OUT)
yet. To enable the display, power on
the Booster while holding down S3.
LED2 will flash until S3 is released.
The unit should then start in the Simple Base Station mode with the display active.
Once you have activated the display,
you should see something like Screen
1, which is the main operating screen
for the Simple Base Station. Screens
2-7 are the various settings that can be
accessed by pressing S3 (SEL). Press
S3 to get to Screen 6 and select a different mode (BASE STN, BOOSTER
or REVERSER).
Then press S3 to get to Screen 7 and
press S1 to restart the micro. This will
ensure that the new mode is properly configured and will be loaded at
startup. If you need to go back to one
of the ‘headless’ modes, choose NO
OLED on Screen 6 and then perform a
reset on Screen 7. Remember to detach
the OLED after that, so it doesn’t affect
the jumpers.
Settings
Configure the current measuring offset parameter on Screen 4 by pressing
S3. The display will show OK, SET
Australia's electronics magazine
Simple Base station mode
You will need a DCC Remote Controller connected to use the Booster
to provide DCC track data. Screen 1
should show an asterisk (*) at upper
siliconchip.com.au
right when packets are received, and
the Remote Controller should be allocated a host index, as if it were connected to a Pico-2-based DCC Base
Station.
Switch on the DCC output with S1
and switch it off with S2 from the main
screen. LED2 will indicate what the
last action was. The text on the screen
will show ON or OFF, or TRIP if the
current limit has been reached.
You should now be able to control
your DCC locomotives through the
DCC Remote Controller interface. The
commands to control track power (on
the DCC Remote Controller) should
also work.
Booster
With the OLED fitted and enabled,
you will also have access to the
Screen 2-7 menu items, as well as
the Booster features seen in Screen 8.
Screen 8 is very similar to Screen 1.
You might also see the ERROR message, which means that the Booster has
not detected a valid DCC signal at the
CON1 DCC input connector.
In this case, the DCC output shuts
off, since it would otherwise continue
to supply power to the track with no
control signals. If you are operating
without a display, LED2 will flicker on
or off briefly once per second to indicate that the DCC signal has been lost.
Of course, LED1 will not be lit either.
Reverse Loop Controller
Reverse Loop Controller mode
operates in much the same fashion as
Booster mode (see Screen 9). Here, the
symbol on the right shows whether the
polarity is normal or reversed.
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In operation, you will see LED2
flicker off very quickly when the polarity is swapped. If the OLED is not in
use, the indications on the LEDs will
be identical to that noted in the previous section.
Considerations
The Booster and Reverse Loop Controller modes both work by reading
and then recreating the incoming signal using the driver ICs. This can be
contrasted with the earlier Reverse
Loop Controller for DCC Model
Railways, which fed through signal
through directly but used a relay to
flip its polarity when required.
There is an approximately 3μs delay
in the signal propagating through the
BTN8962 driver ICs. The logic in the
PIC microcontroller also adds a small
delay, but this is of the order of tens
of nanoseconds; negligible compared
to the drivers.
This means that using a DCC track
signal to drive the input of the Booster
or Reverse Loop Controller will result
in a noticeable amount of signal skew
between two adjacent track sections,
enough to cause a potential short circuit due to one driver pulling the
track section high while another has
already started pulling the other low,
or vice versa.
One way to avoid this is to use the
logic-level signals from the Pico-2based Base Station instead of the track
signals, before they are delayed by passing through the driver ICs on that board.
That way, the track signals coming from
the Base Station and Booster/Reverse
Loop Controller will have more-or-less
synchronous edges.
Fig.8 shows where you can tap off the
logic level signals from the Base Station to connect to the CON1 DCC signals on the Booster (the blue and green
wires). Note that these are the points
that connect to pin 2 (IN) of the IC2 &
IC3 driver ICs. Thus, any skew caused
by the driver ICs should be the same.
We found that using the logic-level
signals worked better when the circuit
grounds are connected; this may not
Fig.8: we recommend tapping the
logic level DCC signals from the
points on the Base Station shown
here if you are building this
project as a Booster or Reverse
Loop Controller, since it will
better synchronise the DCC
signals that are sent to the
track.
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Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 57
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58
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Parts List – DCC Booster
1 double-sided green PCB coded 09111248 measuring 45 × 79mm
1 black panel PCB coded 09111249 measuring 83 × 53 × 0.8mm
1 UB5 Jiffy box
3 M3 × 16mm tapped spacers
6 M3 × 5-6mm blackened machine screws
2 2-way 5mm/5.08mm pluggable screw terminal blocks (CON1, CON2)
[Altronics P2592 + P2512, Jaycar HM3102 + HM3122,
or Dinkle 2EHDRC-02P + 2ESDV-02P]
1 2-way 5mm/5.08mm screw terminal (CON3; optional in place of CON4)
1 PCB-mounting DC barrel jack (CON4)
1 RJ45 PCB-mount through-hole socket (CON5; optional•)
1 5-way 0.1in (2.54mm) pitch header strip (CON6; optional, for ICSP)
2 M205 fuse clips (F1)
1 M205 fuse to suit PSU; maximum of 5A if CON4 is used,
10A if CON3 is used (F1)
1 2×4-way 0.1in (2.54mm) pin header (JP1; optional•)
4 0.1in (2.54mm) jumper shunts (JP1; optional•)
1 0.91in (23mm) I2C OLED module (MOD1; optional•)
1 4-way 0.1in (2.54mm) socket header strip (optional•, to suit MOD1)
3 through-hole tactile switches with stems 18mm above PCB (S1-S3)
(shorter stems can be used if you do not wish to fit the unit inside an
enclosure)
1 power supply unit (PSU) to suit
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18146-I/SO microcontroller programmed with 0911124D.HEX (IC1)
[Silicon Chip SC7580]
2 BTN8962TA half-bridge drivers, TO-263-7 (IC2, IC3)
1 LP2950ACZ-3.3 3.3V LDO linear regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
1 BAT54C dual common-cathode SMD schottky diode, SOT-23 (D1)
1 1N5404 or 1N5408 3A silicon axial diode, DO-27 (D2)
1 3mm bicolour red/green LED (LED1)
1 3mm green LED (LED2)
1 3mm red LED (LED3)
Capacitors (M3216/1206 X7R 50V unless specified)
1 1000μF 25V radial electrolytic
1 100μF 16V radial electrolytic
1 1μF
6 100nF
Resistors (M3216/1206, ⅛W ±1%)
1 100kW
6 10kW
3 2.2kW
6 1kW
• optional parts depending on intended use; see Table 1
automatically be the case if the Base
Station and Booster are powered from
separate power supplies.
We’ve included an extra GND pad
on the Booster for this purpose. You
could use the unused CON3 or CON4
GND pad on Base Station to make this
connection and use a gauge of wire
that is suitable for your track current.
Summary
The DCC Booster/Reverse Loop Controller provides the drivers and some
logic to implement a DCC Simple Base
Australia's electronics magazine
Station, Booster or Reverse Loop Controller in a compact UB5 case. It has a
fast-acting digitally adjustable current
limit that makes use of the newer features in modern 8-bit PICs.
It can accept a DCC signal at logic
levels, so it could be used as a component of a larger DCC system based
on commercial hardware, or even a
custom base station generating DCC
signals. The interface for the Remote
Controller provides another means for
DCC signals to be provided in the form
SC
of serial data.
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Using Electronic Modules with Tim Blythman
Self-powered
Wireless Switches
These so-called ‘self-powered switches’ do
not need a separate power source. You might
have heard these referred to as kinetic switches, and seen
them in wireless doorbells and remote-controlled light
switches. We’ll investigate how they work and ways to
interface with them.
T
hese are RF transmitters that do
not need a battery or other power
source. The accompanying receivers
do require power, but as they are used
to control the likes of mains-powered
lights and appliances, power is readily available.
They use a form of energy harvesting to send a brief transmission. The
examples we tested use some interesting strategies to make best use of
the limited amount of energy available. All devices mentioned in this
article use the 433MHz LIPD (low
interference potential device) band,
which is actually closer to 434MHz
than 433MHz.
In the April and June 2025 issues,
we presented a series of project articles for building a 433MHz Transmitter and Receiver pair (siliconchip.
au/Series/439). The series includes
an explanation of the LIPD band, its
uses and its limitations. The power
limits mean that its range is typically
quite short, but useful within a typical household.
In this article, we’ll look at a bare
module, as well as a complete unit that
has a matching receiver. We’ll investigate the energy harvesting circuitry
and its operation, since we expect
readers will be interested in that.
We’ll also delve into the RF transmission protocol and how to receive
signals from some of these devices,
including sending and receiving compatible signals using our Transmitter
and Receiver paired with Arduino
code running on a Pico microcontroller module.
The DFRobot TEL0146
Photos 1 & 2: The TEL0146 is a
compact unit that incorporates an
energy harvesting device and RF
transmitter. It doesn’t need a battery.
The rear of the TEL0146 shows the
fixed coil, E-shaped core and moving
pole pieces. The return spring for the
lever is towards the bottom.
60
Silicon Chip
We’ll start with this module since
it is a bare unit with visible workings.
Shown in Photos 1 & 2, it is just under
5cm long. There is a plastic frame that
holds a black PCB and an assortment
of other parts, like springs and coils.
These modules are available from
Mouser and DigiKey for around $16,
excluding shipping.
Information on the module is available from DFRobot at siliconchip.au/
link/ac84
Pressing and releasing the white
lever triggers the transmission, and
an onboard LED flashes briefly. The
Australia's electronics magazine
action is quite firm and has a satisfying
click. Interestingly, the transmission
occurs on the upstroke, as the lever
is released. The lever travel is about
3mm at its outer end.
The page noted above mentions that
the lever should not be pressed more
than three times per second, and that
at least one of the configuration DIP
switches must be selected.
Fig.1 is the circuit diagram for the
electronics on the module. It is based
around U1, a Cmostek CMT2156B,
which is an OOK (on-off keying) RF
transmitter IC with integrated energy
harvesting. Unlike our Transmitter
module, this chip also includes circuitry to modulate the output RF
energy and apply encoding.
In 2021, Cmostek was bought by
HopeRF. Apart from the addition of
the extra voltage regulator circuitry at
upper left, the circuit design closely
matches an application note circuit in
the CMT2156B data sheet.
The regulator allows the module to
be powered by a low-voltage power
source like a battery. We applied 5V to
the DC INPUT connections and found
that this activated the transmitter in
much the same fashion as the lever.
So this module can be used as a conventional RF transmitter, too.
Pins P2N and P2P of U1 connect
to the coil, which is mounted behind
the PCB. The data sheet appears to
show a magnet moving near the coil,
hinting that the energy harvesting is
based on electromagnetic induction.
The snappy action of the lever is
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the CMT2156B includes internal rectifier and
regulator circuitry to harvest energy from the coil
connected to pins 10 & 11. When triggered, it sends
out an RF signal, encoding the value set by DIP
switch SW1.
reminiscent of some piezo devices, but
it is a simple mechanical spring here.
The data sheet for the CMT2156B
shows that the V5N and V5P pins
have an absolute maximum rating of
6.5V. Based on E = ½CV2, the two 47μF
capacitors can store around 2mJ each.
The chip contains dedicated AC-DC
and DC buck (step-down) circuitry
using external inductor L1 to produce
a regulated 2.4V at the Vout pin, and
this is used to provide power for RF
transmissions. This allows the IC to
operate longer, as the higher voltage
generated from the coil isn’t wasted;
effectively, the initial current drawn
from the reservoir cap is reduced until
it partially discharges.
The remainder of the circuit is for
selecting and generating the appropriate RF codes.
The chip supports so-called 527,
1527, 2262 and 2240 data encodings;
it also has an internal EEPROM that
can be programmed. The DFRobot
page indicates that the 1527 encoding
is used by the TEL0146. It also mentions that 600μJ of energy is generated,
which sounds reasonable given that
the 6.5V rating above is an absolute
maximum.
The 1527 encoding includes 20
identity bits, giving just over one million unique transmitter IDs, and four
data bits, which correspond to the four
DIP switch inputs on the TEL0146
Switch Module. There is no checksum
for error detection.
siliconchip.com.au
E1 is a pair of unoccupied solder pads on the PCB. Bridging them
causes the device to transmit on both
strokes of the switch (press & release).
It’s unclear whether there’s any benefit to that configuration, but as that
is not the default, we doubt it. Zener
diode D1 appears to be the part that
clamps the generated voltage to a
safe level.
Note the interesting connection of
crystal Y1, between pin 9 of U1 and
GND, rather than between two pins as
is commonly seen (Pierce oscillators).
We suspect the crystal is being used
in parallel resonance mode.
and effectively has a two-way bistable
action.
Coil voltage
We were curious what kind of voltages were present around the coil
and other parts of the circuit. Scope
1 shows the voltage across the coil
during a lever actuation. As the coil is
connected to the P2P and P2N terminals of U1 on the PCB, the voltages may
be different (and probably higher!)
under open-circuit conditions.
As expected, there are two spikes
of opposite polarity, and the voltages appear to be clamped near to the
Coil and mechanism
Fig.2 shows the arrangement of the
coil and mechanism. The fixed coil is
in the centre of an E-shaped core with
many turns of fine enamelled wire.
The moving part has two pole pieces
separated by a magnet.
The magnet causes the pole pieces
to be attracted to the core, so moving
it requires some force. When the lever
moves as shown by the arrows, the
magnetic field in the core reverses,
inducing a current in the coil.
In the TEL0146 module, a spring
is fitted. This returns the pole pieces
to their original positions when the
force is removed. Otherwise, the
magnet causes one or the other of the
pole pieces to remain stuck to the
centre of the core. Later, we’ll look at
another device that lacks the spring
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.2: a moving magnet induces a
current in the windings of the coil.
The TEL0146 unit includes the spring
shown here, and the mechanism
returns to the lower position after
each actuation. The rocker switch
mechanism is bistable and is held in
place by the magnets after operation.
March 2026 61
Scope 1 (left): the voltage across the coil in a TEL0146 module. It appears there are internal clamps in the CMT2156B chip
that keep the voltages within its 6.5V limits (or D1 clamps the voltage; possibly both).
Scope 2 (right): the red trace shows the voltage on C1 and the blue trace on C5 (from Fig.1). The green trace is the RSSI
signal from a nearby Receiver and shows when the chip is actively transmitting. By waiting for the upstroke, the chip
harvests energy from both the down and up actions of the mechanism.
6.5V limits noted earlier. The timing
of the pulses depends on the time
between the lever being pushed and
then released.
Scope 2 shows the voltages on the
two 47μF capacitors relative to circuit ground. The voltage on C1 (red)
rises first, followed by the voltage
on C5 (blue). The green trace is the
RSSI (received signal strength indicator) voltage from a nearby 433MHz
Receiver, from our project series noted
earlier; this trace’s height roughly corresponds to the average RF energy
received.
We can see that the CMT2156B
only starts transmitting when the second coil pulse arrives, and the RF is
sent in packets. The small dips in the
green trace correspond to the changes
in the slope of the capacitor voltages.
About three packets were sent in this
case. Based on our calculations, the
circuit draws around 5mA during
transmission.
The voltage levels out at about
1.8V, after which the resistors slowly
bleed off the remaining charge over
the course of seconds. The data sheet
mentions that the minimum operating voltage of the CMT2156B is 1.8V,
so presumably the chip shuts down
when it detects this low voltage and
stops drawing current.
Other devices
We also found a complete wireless
switch system that appears to be based
on the same principle. It includes a
large rocker-style switch and a 230V
wireless receiver module. The two
units are paired, and when the rocker
is actuated, the output of the receiver
module toggles on or off. As a set, the
switch and module worked quite well
before we disassembled them.
Photo 3 shows the transmitter and
receiver set, while Photos 4-6 show
how the switch unit comes apart.
The main rocker simply pulls off. It
is held only by small clips that also
Photo 3: This wireless kinetic
rocker switch works similarly to
the TEL0146 but includes a simple
enclosure and mains relay unit. The
enclosure (left) measures 8.6 × 8.6cm,
while the relay unit (right) measures
4.8 × 5cm Source: www.ebay.com.au/
itm/405115817334
62
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
allow it to pivot on its axis. There is
an enclosed transmitter unit that clips
onto the rear plate.
There are also versions that incorporate two switch paddles, and the
backplate clearly has room to carry
two transmitters. The transmitters
have two arms. Their internals are a
little different from the other module,
but they appear to use a similar coil
and magnet arrangement. Our investigations also revealed that they use the
same 1527 protocol as the TEL0146
modules.
The set (switch mechanism, relay
and tape) cost $20 from eBay, including delivery. That particular item is
now out of stock, but other items that
appear identical can be found with
a search for “kinetic switch”. That
search brings up some other items that
appear to work in a similar fashion,
but we have not tested them.
There also appear to be different sets
available with dual and triple switch
mechanisms and multiple relays.
These devices are not supplied with
a circuit diagram, although there is a
small instruction booklet including
details of how to pair other transmitters to the relay.
Operation
We thought that the TEL0146 modules took a substantial amount of force
to actuate, while the rocker switches
were easier to toggle. To quantify this,
we placed the switches onto a digital
siliconchip.com.au
Photos 4-6: The front
rocker of the switch
pulls off to reveal
a smaller module
attached to the back
plate. This module is
self-contained and
could be incorporated
into a 3D-printed
enclosure if you
didn’t like the
appearance of
the original. The
smaller module
contains a similar
coil- and magnetbased energy
harvesting
circuit and RF
transmitter.
scale and noted
how much extra
force had to be applied to actuate them.
The TEL0146 modules took around
900gf (grams of force) to actuate, while
the rocker switches required about
240gf. Given that the TEL0146 modules have a return spring, it makes
sense that their operating force is much
higher. As a comparison, miniature
tactile switches, like those we use in
many projects, have an operating force
around 100gf.
We tried the transmitters over different distances and found that they
did not seem to have the same range
as other battery-powered transmitters, although they were still capable
of working from a few rooms away.
Transmission protocol
Scopes 3-5 show the RSSI (red) and
data (green) traces from a 433MHz
Receiver while receiving signals from
various transmitters. Scope 3 shows a
transmission from a TEL0146 module,
Fig.3: the timing of the 1527
encoding is based around a
fixed timer period, with the sync
pulse being one period of RF on
followed by 31 periods with it
off. The longer on-period of the
‘1’ bit could also be viewed as the
RF being on at the half-way point
(after the rising edge) of each bit.
siliconchip.com.au
while Scope 4 shows a
transmission from the rocker-style
switch.
Although it uses a different encoding, we also recorded a waveform
from the transmitter in a Jaycar
MS6148 Remote Controlled Mains
Outlet, shown in Scope 5. The Jaycar
Mini Projects series (siliconchip.au/
Series/417) includes a few projects that
interface with this system, including
the Arduino Clap Light and the RF
Remote Receiver.
With the knowledge that the
TEL0146 uses the 1527 encoding (seen
in Fig.3), we found a couple of Arduino libraries that claimed to be able
to receive and decode that protocol.
However, it did not report any codes
when the module was triggered.
Comparing Scope 5 with Scope 3
and Scope 4 gave us a clue. It turns
out that this version of the protocol is
sent at a much faster rate than other
protocols we had seen previously.
Importantly, the self-powered modules were clocking their data faster
than the libraries were expecting.
By tweaking some of the library timing parameters, we were able to see
results that corresponded with codes
that we found by manually decoding the scope grabs. This was unexpected, but not surprising, given the
strict power requirements. Clearly, a
faster transmission means less energy
is needed!
With this in mind, we noted some
other aspects of the design that are
Scope 3: this waveform is from a TEL0146 module; the green trace is the signal
from a 433MHz Receiver, while the red trace is its RSSI signal. The third packet
is truncated, probably because the capacitors discharged before it was finished.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 63
Scope 4: the output of the rocker switch module shows a much faster
transmission. Six packets have been transmitted, but the first has not been
received correctly, possibly due to the Receiver AGC not settling in time. The
last packet has also been truncated due to the harvested power running out.
useful in a low-power situation. For
example, the 1527 encoding has quite
a large gap after its synchronisation
pulse (compared to the sync pulse
itself). This reduces the duty cycle of
the RF transmitter and thus the average power requirement.
The receivers work by comparing
the instantaneous RF energy to the
average, so a 50% average duty cycle
provides the best contrast between the
RF on (100%) and RF off (0%) states.
The codes we saw favoured ‘0’ bits
over ‘1’ bits, reducing the average to
around 35% duty cycle. For example, the narrow peaks in Scope 3 correspond to ‘0’ bits, which outnumber
the wider ‘1’ bits.
Unfortunately, the libraries we
tested were not able to detect these
signals consistently, so we set about
creating an Arduino sketch that could
receive the codes from these devices.
We also wrote a sketch to transmit
the same codes to further validate the
receiver. Fig.4 shows the wiring diagram for a Pico connected to a Receiver
and a Transmitter, respectively.
Arduino code
Scope 5: a single packet from a typical battery-powered transmitter. This type of
unit will keep transmitting as long as the button is held down. It uses a slower
data rate than the other units, which have to make the best of a limited amount
of energy.
Fig.4: how we wired up Raspberry Pi Pico boards to our 433MHz Receiver (top)
and Transmitter (bottom) to interface with the modules in this article. The pins
used (GP2/GP3 here) can be changed in the software.
64
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The two sketches are named RF_
RX_EV1527 and RF_TX_EV1527 for
reception and transmission, respectively. They include simple header
files with some useful functions and
variables. The pins used are set by
#defines, so can easily be changed.
These examples use the Pico Ticker
library, so they should work with any
RP2xxx board.
The RF_RX_EV1527 sketch looks
for a sync low period of at least 700μs
(adjustable), so it will sometimes confuse noise with a valid signal. It will
record and report (to the serial port or
serial monitor) the timer period (which
is 1/31 of the sync low pulse period),
since the timer period is also needed
for the transmitter sketch.
You can look for consecutive matching packets to filter out noise, since
the transmitters should send multiple packets each time they are activated. Checking the timer period can
also help to filter out invalid packets.
The TEL0146 module resulted in a
timer period of 82μs, while the rocker
switch has a timer period of around
27μs. As you can see from the scope
grabs, the rocker switch sends out
about five packets, compared to three
for the module.
The sketch simply reports the timer
siliconchip.com.au
period and a 24-bit result. These 24 bits
consist of the 20-bit identity value and
four bits that could be changed by toggling the DIP switches on the TEL0146
module. The rocker switch does not
have DIP switches, but it appears that
there are four sets of jumper pads that
can be set using 0W resistors.
The RF_TX_EV1527 sketch requires
the RF_TX_TIMER_PERIOD to be set.
We were able to trigger the relay of the
rocker switch to activate by copying
the code and timer period from the
output of the RF_RX_EV1527 sketch.
We could also get the RF_RX_
EV1527 sketch to produce the same
code and, as expected, the scope grabs
of the module and RF_TX_EV1527
sketch match quite well.
In our research, we found some
reports that devices like the rocker
switch emitted different codes depending on whether they were being
switched ‘up’ or ‘down’. This seems
reasonable, since the IC would see different pulse polarities from the coil
depending on which way the mechanism was moving.
But we did not find that to be the
case, with our unit reporting the same
code every time it was toggled. The
toggle action makes sense if the relay
was paired with multiple transmitters,
which appears to be possible.
Summary
These are interesting devices, and it
is handy that they work without batteries. The TEL0146 is just a bare module and takes an unexpected amount
of force to operate. It could be useful if
incorporated into a suitable enclosure,
possibly including an ergonomic lever
mechanism that reduces the amount of
force needed for its operation.
The rocker switch unit is complete
and works well, and if you need a
simple switch for a mains appliance
or light, as it comes with a matching wireless relay unit. The switch is
unobtrusive and needs much less force
to operate. Subjectively, we also found
that we were able to receive its transmissions more reliably, since it usually sent more code cycles per press.
Both units appear to produce only
a single code each, and we were able
to interface to the RF signals for both
transmitter types, so it will be straightforward to create custom projects
using either. Our demo software can
be downloaded from siliconchip.au/
SC
Shop/6/3316
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March 2026 65
Feature by Julian Edgar
Tips & Tricks for wiring
new homes
If you are building a house, or might do so one day, we have some helpful ideas that will help you get
the most out of it. If you think of these things after it has been constructed, it’s usually too late!
I
am about 80% through building our
new home. As an owner-builder,
there’s been a lot to learn – and a few
surprises along the way. One of the
surprises is the amount of wiring. Not
just mains wiring, but data cabling,
for security cameras, HDMI cables,
speaker cables... so many wires!
So, if you’re building – or thinking
of building – a new home, you need to
know what wiring aspects to keep in
mind. We’ll start with mains wiring.
Mains wiring
First, note that in Australia, you will
need an accredited electrician to do
the wiring. Of course, you can discuss
your requirements or plans with them
first. In more free countries like New
Zealand, you can do some of the work
yourself. If you do, it’s a good idea to
get an electrician to check over your
work and to provide advice.
In many respects, mains wiring has
changed little over a long time – but the
way we use mains power has changed.
One example is power points. Once,
power points tended to be used for just
high current devices – floor heaters,
vacuum cleaners, the kitchen kettle
and the like.
Sure, there were lower-current uses
like radios, TVs and hifi systems, but
there wasn’t the plethora of low current plugpack-powered devices and
USB chargers that now exist. So the
number of power points fitted to old
homes – perhaps a couple per main
room – is now quite inadequate.
66
Silicon Chip
In our new home, we have 63 double power points, and through contact
with other owner-builders, I’ve found
this is often regarded as a low number!
Power points located outside are
often overlooked – we have ten,
including one for the legally required
(NSW) rainwater tank pump, and
another for a pool pump.
Each bedroom typically has four
– one on each side of the bed (for a
light, clock or phone charger), another
easily accessible (for a standing lamp
or vacuum cleaner) and one inside
each built-in wardrobe (for plugpack-
powered low-voltage LED lights).
One bedroom, where the double
bed can be orientated in two different
ways, has four bedside power points,
so there will be one on each side of
the bed irrespective of the two different bed orientations.
Sourcing parts
If your electrician is happy for you to
source the mains cable and parts,
do so! There are several Australian suppliers selling cable, power
points, lights, switches and so on
at excellent prices – often half the
retail price. This isn’t for no-name
brands, but for quality brands like
Clipsal.
You can save many thousands
of dollars by taking this approach
– but ensure you work closely with
the electrician so that he or she gets
exactly the parts they want.
Australia's electronics magazine
My home office has eight power
points, with six located behind the
L-shaped desk.
It is cheaper to mount two double power points side-by-side than to
use a quad (four-outlet) power point.
Quad power points are expensive, and
their mounting plates/boxes are also
expensive.
Of course, you can use power distribution boards rather than multiple
power points positioned next to each
other – the choice usually depends on
whether they will be hidden or able to
be seen, and on the total power draw
of the devices (limited to a total of 10A
or 2300W per outlet).
Other power points installed
include eight spaced apart in the loft.
This large area may be used for all
sorts of purposes in the future, possibly including a model train layout;
many power points will make any
use easy. There’s also a high-mounted
power point for the wall-hung TV and
high-mounted 15A power points in the
bathrooms for infrared heaters.
Remotely switched power
points
Importantly, there are also multiple
power points that are switched on and
off by normal wall switches.
For example, wall switches are used
to control two power points located
inside the kitchen pantry. These
each have plugpacks to power local
low voltage LED lighting – one for a
lighting strip under the wall-mounted
siliconchip.com.au
If the
electrician is
happy for you
to source the
parts that he
or she will
use, do so, as
you’ll save
plenty. Here I
am picking up
conduit for the
underground
supply cable.
The ute’s
tray is also
full of cable,
power points,
switches and
many other
electrical
parts.
Seven outside floodlights will be controlled from this
six-way switch. Cable is cheap, and when the house
is still being built, easy to run.
kitchen cupboards, and another that
illuminates display shelves in high
glass-fronted kitchen cupboards.
Another remotely switched power
point in the kitchen is for a booster
fan for the range hood. Another two
remote switched power points are
located in the loft, allowing wall
switches in the lounge to turn the
sound system amplifiers on and off.
Wall plate switches for remotely
switched power points should include
a pilot light to show the remote device
is powered. The exception is where it
is obvious that the remote power point
is on; for example, it controls lighting.
Neon pilot lights are available that slot
straight into normal wall plates; for
example, replacing one of the switches
on a two-gang plate.
On the advice of our electrician, the
kitchen fridge is on a separate circuit.
There are two reasons for this:
1. He suggested that the most common Earth leakage problem is caused
by the fridge, and so isolating the
problem is easy if that’s all that is on
that circuit.
2. When people go away on holiday, they often switch off everything
but the fridge – this is easily achieved
if the fridge is on a separate breaker.
Another two power feeds that are on
separate circuits are for the pool water
pump and the waste treatment system
(the modern name for what was once
a septic tank). The reason for running
these on separate circuits is that, by
fitting appropriate controllers at the
siliconchip.com.au
switchboard, it will be easy to operate these on excess solar power or offpeak tariffs.
EV charging
A major cable that we installed was
for an outside charging point for an
electric vehicle (EV). Single-phase AC
chargers for EVs are typically rated at
up to 7kW (about 30A at 230V). This
high current requires its own circuit
and, depending on the length of cable
required, may need cable with quite a
large cross-section of copper.
The calculator at siliconchip.au/link/
ac69 is a useful tool to double-check
the cable being used by the electrician.
In our case, because of the length, he
used 10mm2 cable. Mains cable usually
comprises Active, Neutral and Earth
wires in a flat white cable. This is called
TPS (thermoplastic-sheathed) cable.
A shut-off switch is needed at the
EV charger – killing two birds with one
stone, he used a 32A three-pin weatherproof external power outlet that has
an inbuilt switch. The charger plugs
into this power outlet.
Many EVs now also have V2L (vehicle to load) functionality, where the
car can act as a mains source. I own an
MG4 EV that can provide up to 3kW
– expect EVs in the future to be able
to deliver more.
So, rather than firing up a generator
when we have a (not infrequent) blackout, another cable was laid to the EV
charging point to allow the house to
be powered by the EV.
To protect anyone working on the
external mains power lines when this
occurs, the connection with mains
must be broken by a switch – ie, the
house is switched to back-up power
The electrician will
ask for your desired
location and spacing
of the various wall
switches and fittings,
so work this out
ahead of time. From
left to right, these
mounting plates are
for a light switch,
isolation switch for
a remote-controlled
ceiling fan, space
for the fan remote
and the room
temperature sensor
mounting plate.
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March 2026 67
Where to locate the electronics
Early in our house planning, I was thinking of making my home office the electronic ‘centre of things’. I envisaged a wall-mounted cabinet with terminations
for Cat 6 cabling, cabling from the outside shed (for the security cameras) and
speaker cabling for a whole-of-house audio system.
Then I realised the cabinet would need to be huge because it would also
contain the audio amplifiers, the digital video recorder (DVR) for the security
system, the network switch/router and so on.
So instead, I nominated some shelves in the loft space for all these functions. In a house without a loft, or where you want ground level access, you
could use the equivalent of a linen cupboard. When designing a house, incorporating such an extra space is straightforward.
Deciding on the location for the information centre is very important because
it determines the route of many of the cable runs – especially the Cat 6 cables.
If you choose to remote mount audio amplifier(s), it will also determine the location of speaker cables, line level (RCA) signal cables and possibly HDMI cables.
and in doing so, disconnected from
the mains.
Note that this is not V2H (vehicle to house), where the EV’s battery
seamlessly becomes part of the house
system, charging and discharging in
a two-way process. Unfortunately,
because of power company regulations and the lack of suitable cars in
Australia, V2H is still on the horizon.
Heavy loads and dimmers
Another pair of cables that surprised
me because of their size were those for
the stove and cooktop. Our electrician
used 6mm2 for the cooktop and 4mm2
for the oven – this took into account
any size or type for these two appliances, now or in the future.
Another mains power aspect to keep
in mind is lighting dimmers. The benefit of dimmers is that the current consumption falls proportionally as you
dim the lights, so you can have plenty
of lighting brightness available when
required, but typically use little power
at normal brightness levels.
Modern smart dimmers have memory and slow-dimming functions,
and the dimmer knob can be used as
a normal on/off switch just by pressing it. These dimmers can also be
easily wired to operate in two, three
and even four way switching circuits,
giving a lot of versatility in how you
control lights.
Nearly every internal light in our
new house is operated by a dimmer,
and the hallway lighting is controlled
by three-way switching – one switch
at each end and one in the middle.
If using dimmers, ensure that you
select LED lights that are dimmable.
Some aren’t.
The switchboard
Consider where you want the
switchboard to be located. It doesn’t
need to be in the meter box; a location
nearer to the area of maximum current
draw (eg, the kitchen) will reduce the
required lengths of expensive heavyduty cable.
Standard 1.5mm2 cabling – typically for lighting – and 2.5mm2 for
power points are both quite cheap
because they are used in vast quantities. Thicker TPS cable is disproportionately much more expensive – it’s
cheaper to make the main power feed,
that doesn’t use TPS cable, longer.
I chose to mount the switchboard
centrally in the house loft. The advantages include proximity to the hot
water system, kitchen & laundry, and
plenty of space to mount the switchboard and later
expansions (solar
diversion relays
etc). The disadvantage is that
access to the
switchboard
is via dropdown loft
steps.
Modern smart lighting dimmers are
energy efficient, remember their last
setting and can be programmed for
maximum and minimum light output.
They are also easy to wire for two, three or
even four way switching.
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Australia's electronics magazine
Run any cables that might be needed
in the future while the house is being
built. This outside box contains a
power feed for an air conditioner,
should one be needed.
When considering mains wiring,
don’t forget outside lighting. Two-way
switching of lighting in an outside
shed is useful (you can operate the
shed lights from both the house and
shed), and house-mounted floodlights
can provide excellent yard illumination, especially in dark rural areas.
Many people also use decorative lighting along the side of driveways.
Finally, on mains wiring, it costs little to run extra cables at the time the
house is being built – regular thickness TPS cable is cheap, and access
for the electrician through a half-built
house is quick and easy. Therefore, if
you can foresee any potential future
requirement for power in a location,
get the electrician to run that cable at
construction time.
For example, we do not plan on having air-conditioning since our energy
modelling suggests we shouldn’t need
it. But what if that modelling is wrong?
In case it is, 15A cables have been run
to each end of the house, terminating
in outside weatherproof boxes.
If air conditioners do need to be
later installed, accessing power will
take only moments, with isolation
switches replacing the blank front
faces of the boxes.
Audio-visual cabling
Cabling for audio-visual purposes
can be bigger than Ben Hur – but let’s
start with speaker wiring.
While the current fashion is for
Bluetooth speakers (eg, the rear speakers in a home theatre system), I much
prefer hard wiring. If it’s done when
the house is being built, it is quick,
simple and easy – and of course, you
can do it yourself.
siliconchip.com.au
Note that depending on the type
of home theatre system you are running, you may need to wire in a lot of
speakers!
Speaker cable can be expensive, but
there is a solution. If instead of speaker
cable you select low-voltage garden
lighting cable, you’ll find a 100m roll
costs about $200 – and that’s for cable
with a 3.4mm2 cross-section! This is
about the equivalent of AWG 12, but
it is much cheaper than similar-size
cable sold as speaker wire.
This cable is sufficiently thick for
any length of speaker runs in a normal house – for short runs, you can
of course use thinner cable. It will
work just as well as speaker cable.
Audio guru Douglas Self agrees that
the type of cable used for speakers
doesn’t really matter. In his book “The
Design of Active Crossovers” (Elsevier,
2011), he writes,
“The main factors in speaker cable
selection are therefore series resistance
and inductance. If these parameters
are less than 100mW for the roundtrip resistance and less than 3μH for
the total inductance, any effects will
be imperceptible.”
So speaker cable doesn't need to be
anything special, as long as its resistance is low enough. You will need to
decide how to terminate each end of
the speaker cables. Normally, termination at the speaker end is via a wall
plate with binding posts or jacks. However, this adds considerable expense
and requires further cables to connect
the wall plates to the speakers.
An alternative is to use a brushed
plate. With this approach, the cable
simply passes through the wall plate
brushes to the speaker or amplifier.
When cabling for speakers, don’t
forget any outside areas like a patio
or deck.
Depending on where the various
amplifiers and signal sources are, you
may also need to use HDMI and/or
RCA (line level) connections between
them.
For example, in my house, the subwoofer amplifier is remote-mounted
in the loft and is connected via long
line level cables to the sub-out connection of the home theatre amplifier
(near the TV) and a short line level
cable to a Bluetooth audio input. It
connects to both sources via a custom
mixing cable, as described in an article from March 2025 (siliconchip.au/
Article/17787).
siliconchip.com.au
Low-voltage garden lighting cable is
one of the cheapest ways of getting
heavy-duty cable suitable for long
runs. It’s usually much cheaper than
similar size speaker cable.
Cable for a speaker in an outside
deck area. I chose not to use a wall
plate with sockets but to simply feed
the cable through a sealed hole in the
wall cladding to the speaker.
We didn’t have a home theatre system in our previous house. Because
I was a little uncertain how all the
cabling would play out, we set up
the entire system in the unfinished
house so that all cable runs could be
checked before plasterboard closed
off access.
RJ45 plugs to Cat 6 cable and finding it very difficult (especially with
thicker 23AWG cable), I decided to
buy pre-terminated cables. Because
these cables are available in a wide
variety, it was easy to select cables of
the right length.
Wall plates are also available with
female/female Cat 6 connectors, so
running the Cat 6 cabling is as easy as
just plugging the cables into the back
of the wall plates.
Cat 6 cabling
Cat 6 is the most universal cable you
can run in your house. It can be used
to network computers, printers, security cameras, security systems, games
consoles, smart TVs and VoIP phones.
It can even network one switch to
another switch and connect a wireless
access point to the network.
Additionally, it can be used as
low-voltage power cabling, eg, for
operating remote relays or intercoms,
or for sensing environmental factors
like temperature or wind speed or for
powering a wireless internet dongle.
Via adaptors, HDMI and USB signals
can be sent down long runs of Cat
6. In short, think of Cat 6 cabling as
the communications backbone of the
house.
In our house, I have run Cat 6
cabling from the information centre
in the loft to:
• my home office
• my wife’s work desk
• the two main bedrooms
• the kitchen
• the TV in the lounge
• the shed
• each external security camera
location
After fiddling with fitting my own
Australia's electronics magazine
Security cameras
Security camera systems are available in three types: wireless (no
cabling), analog (using coaxial cable
for the signal and a pair of wires for
power) and digital IP cameras (using
Cat 6 cabling and POE [power over
Ethernet]).
In our house, built on a five-hectare
rural block, we use wireless for
long-distance monitoring, and IP cameras for the house and shed. A major
advantage of IP cameras in our application is that the shed is connected
to the house via Cat 6 cable, and by
Optic-fibre based cables can be used
for long HDMI runs. For example,
these can be used to connect a
security camera digital video
recorder (DVR) to the
main TV, allowing
review of footage
on a large
monitor.
March 2026 69
using a network switch in the shed,
multiple security camera feeds can be
fed via this single cable to the DVR in
the house.
Depending on the location of the
DVR, you may need to use a long
HDMI cable to connect it to a viewing monitor.
Many people use their main TV as
the security monitor (it’s likely to be
the largest display in the house), so
either the DVR needs to be located
near the TV (and thus all the camera
cables also need to come to this spot),
or a long HDMI cable needs to connect
the DVR to the TV. We chose the latter approach.
Conventional HDMI cables are limited to about 15m. However, longer
active fibre-optic HDMI cables are
available in lengths up to 30m. Note
that these must be connected the
right way around; they have a transmitter (labelled ‘source’) and receiver
(labelled ‘display’) built into the
respective plugs – something I initially
didn’t realise!
Fibre-optic HDMI cables are also
subject to less RF interference than
conventional HDMI cables (and produce less interference) but they have
a downside. Should the electronics
in the transmitter and receiver (integrated into the plugs) fail, they will
be difficult to replace. A more reliable
alternative is to use RG-6 coaxial cable
with SDI (Serial Digital Interface) converters at each end.
However, there is a further subtlety
with a remote-mounted DVR. To operate the DVR (eg, to play back security
footage) requires a mouse connection
to the DVR, and that mouse needs to
be operable from where you can see
the TV.
Conventional USB cables are limited to about 5m (for a longer cable you
need an amplified ‘repeater’ cable),
but a Bluetooth mouse will usually
work over the required distance.
Selecting a Bluetooth one-handed
finger trackball mouse means you
don’t have to rest the mouse on a
surface when using it, and the mouse
can easily be stored near the TV when
not being used.
Other stuff
If you are building a house – or having one built for you – don’t forget you
can do whatever idiosyncratic things
you want with the non-mains wiring.
For example, in our solar passive
house, I want to be able to display
and log temperatures throughout the
house, including temperatures in
every room, in the concrete slab (that
stores heat and can act as a heatsink)
and near the ceiling in two rooms
with raked ceilings. This sensing is
achieved using thermistors, including some buried in plastic tubes
inside the concrete when the slab
was poured.
Signals are fed to two Picolog 1012
analog loggers with data displayed on
a touchscreen PC located in the hall,
with an HDMI-fed repeater screen in
my office. Several hundred metres of
cables are used.
Home automation
I decided against using full home
automation because its advantages
(automatic control of door locks, light
dimming, air conditioners, opening
and closing of vents etc) seemed to
me to be outweighed by its complexity and the likely life of such specific
hardware.
A finger
trackball
mouse is a
convenient
way of
operating a
remote security
camera DVR
when the main
TV is being used as
the monitor. It overcomes the
need for a long, active USB cable.
Of course, you might decide otherwise, in which case you’d definitely
want to run as much of the wiring as
possible during construction of the
home. Many home automation devices
will work over Cat 6, so make use of
that where possible.
Conclusion
The wiring decisions that you make
have the potential to greatly alter the
liveability, energy efficiency and cost
of a new home. Think through the different systems very carefully, as it is
easy and cheap to install wiring when
the house is being built, but expensive
and difficult to do so afterwards.
Where possible, test the wiring as
it is being installed. If it can be done,
temporarily set up whole systems (eg,
security cameras) to ensure you’ve not
forgotten any required cables. Finally,
by working closely with an electrician
for the mains wiring, and doing the
other cabling yourself, it’s also possiSC
ble to save a lot of money.
What about wireless?
A brush plate on an internal brick feature wall. Brush plates allow cables to
pass straight through, so pre-terminated cables (eg, HDMI) can be easily used.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
A good rule of thumb to use is: when
connecting to a portable device,
use wireless. When connecting to
a device that stays in one location,
use Cat 6. Cables are more reliable
and have higher bandwidths than
wireless. They are also far less subject to interference. For example,
we have experienced WiFi dropouts
near the kitchen when a microwave
is running!
siliconchip.com.au
Internet Radio
Part 2: by Phil Prosser
This new Internet Radio, introduced last month, is very capable; it runs
your choice of media player on Linux with a large touchscreen. It’s built
using pre-assembled modules and 3D-printed pieces, so once the parts are
ready, you can put it together in an afternoon.
T
he first article last month
described our goals, its resulting
capabilities, the 3D-printed case
construction and how the modules
connect together. If you’ve decided to
build it, by now you should have the
case pieces ready and the modules in
hand. You should also have the operating system installed on the Raspberry
Pi. That means we’re ready to put it
all together!
Mechanical and electrical
assembly
First, check the fit of the Raspberry
Pi into the case. If any dags need to be
cleaned up from the slots for the Pi, do
this now. The Raspberry Pi installs by
inserting the corner next to the USB-C
connector and then rolling the Pi in,
so the corner at the far end from the
USB faces up to its matching slot. After
that, jiggle the front slot in. It is somewhat tight, but it fits – refer to Photo 4.
Leave the Pi loose until the HDMI
and USB-C connectors are in, to make
it easier to jiggle those into place.
We have included screw holes on
the fourth standoff for the Pi. If yours
is loose, you can use a Jiffy box screw
to hold it still, but we did not need to
add this screw.
Next, install the DC-to-DC converter
using 9mm Jiffy box screws and flat
washers to the screw holes printed
under the handle. Mount it with the
wires facing the rear of the case – see
Photo 5.
Wiring
1. Solder 150mm extensions to the
power input pigtails using red and
black light-duty hookup wire. We want
sufficient length in these to allow easy
assembly. Use 10mm lengths of 3mm
heatshrink tubing to cover where the
wires are joined.
2. Run the USB cable under the Pi
Photo 4 (left): when installing the Raspberry Pi, start with the back corner and
roll it into the slot. In this picture, the Raspberry Pi is half installed.
Photo 5 (below): the power supply (highlighted in yellow) screws into holes
printed into the top of the case, underneath the handle attachment location.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 71
Photos 6 & 7: the input wires & switch connection on the amp module; the
middle input pin (ground) is not connected. The two black wires go to a switch
that allows us to select between Bluetooth and the Raspberry Pi input. Connect
the amplifier’s audio input ground pin directly to the power supply V− output.
to keep things neat and plug it into
the power connector. This is a snug
fit but it goes in.
3. Prepare to install the amplifier.
There are two sets of wires that need
to be soldered to the amplifier board,
for the input selector and audio input:
4. Solder 300mm lengths of red and
black light duty hookup wire to the
audio input connector “IN” left and
right pins; these are the outside ones
(Photo 6).
5. Connect a 300mm length of green
light-duty wire to the power V− pin.
This means that the middle “GND”
pin on the input connector is not used,
and the green ground pin goes to the
amplifier module V− connection – see
Photo 7. Put a 30mm length of 5mm
heatshrink tubing over these, snug up
against the PCB to keep them tidy.
6. Now terminate these three wires
to a 3.5mm stereo jack plug (see Photo
8 & Fig.7). We also need to include
a 400mm length of light-duty green
wire, which will extend from this plug
through to the power supply ground
point on the rear panel.
7. Put a piece of 5mm heatshrink
over the wires, making sure that the
green wire goes to the outermost
connection, and also that nothing
shorts. Be sure to put the backshell
on the wires before you solder it
all together. Use a pair of pliers to
gently crimp the strain relief over the
heatshrink, securing the wires, then
screw the backshell on.
8. We now need to connect to
the “SW” connection on the amplifier PCB. This connection switches
between the Bluetooth module and
the “IN” connector. Use two 250mm
lengths of light-duty hookup wire;
these can be any colours as they only
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Silicon Chip
go to a switch. Solder these to the
two “SW” pins and then put a 15mm
length of 3mm heatshrink over these
at the PCB to keep things tidy.
9. Use a zip tie to secure these wire
bundles to the rear mounting hole of
the amplifier board. This will stop the
wires from bending and causing shorts
and breaks at the solder connections.
10. Solder these two wires to an SPDT
toggle switch and insulate with heatshrink. Make sure you insulate the
connections at the switch
using 3mm heatshrink.
The final arrangement is shown
in Photo 10.
Photo 8: the wiring to the 3.5mm
plug that goes into the Raspberry Pi.
This includes an extra ground wire
soldered to the ground tab that runs
to the power input connector. Keep
this tight, and it will still fit in the
backshell.
11. Use light-duty hookup wire for
the power and speaker connections, all
340mm long. We used red and green
for the speaker connections. You only
need to connect to the V+ input on the
power input as the ground goes via
the 3.5mm jack. These wires are connected via pluggable two-way headers.
If you don’t have the right crimping
tool, simply use sharp pliers to secure
the wire in the crimp, then add a small
amount of solder. Make sure you get
the power connection correct; the
positive is closest to the corner of the amplifier
board (as shown
in Photo 9).
Photo 9: the power wiring for
the amplifier.
Photo 10: the amplifier module, wired up
and ready to install in the case.
Fig.7: the wiring for the 3.5mm jack plug. Note the two ground wires of different
lengths; in practice, it’s easier to solder one to the top and one to the bottom.
Make sure it will still fit in the shell despite the extra wire.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
12. The speaker connectors terminate
at the speaker terminals; use 30mm of
heatshrink over these as it assists with
strain relief and keeps things tidy.
Now install the amplifier PCB in the
case. It is held in by its volume control shaft bush and two ridges printed
into the inside of the case to keep it
aligned properly. Make sure the board
is aligned with the ridges and tighten
the pot nut well. We have also printed
an indent in the case to accommodate
the locating lug on the volume control,
so everything should sit neatly.
Next, plug the 3.5mm jack into the
Raspberry Pi audio output connector.
Mount the input switch to the case,
making sure to put a shakeproof washer
on the outside. Tighten this well.
Plug in the power connection and
the speaker connectors, making sure
not to mix these up. We labelled our
cables so it is less likely we will make
a mistake. Use a 100mm zip tie to
secure the input wiring to the DC-DC
converter. We will come back to the
flying leads for the power and ground
connection when we wire up the rear
panel.
Photo 11: the LCD screen has an onboard on/off switch that needs to be left on.
Mounting the handle
We used four 16mm-long M4
machine screws, washers and nuts
to do this. Use shakeproof washers to
ensure these bolts remain tight with
movement and vibration. After that,
you can install the LCD screen.
We built two Internet Radios to
check the design & instructions and
found that the LCD alignment between
the top and bottom was asymmetrical
on one of our units, while it was perfectly centred on the other. This really
affects the mounting hole locations.
We worked around this, but on visiting
Altronics the next day, we checked a
few other samples and found that they
were all well centred.
The staff offered to swap the crooked
unit, but we had a fix, and it seemed
wasteful to scrap an otherwise perfectly functional unit. If you experience this crookedness, we drilled
new 2mm holes in the back of the
front panel and used them to attach
the screen with 6mm-long self-tappers.
Now check that the screen’s “On/
Off” switch is set to on, as shown in
Photo 11.
Present the LCD to the internal
front panel; the connectors face the
wide section. Install self-tapping Jiffy
box screws in the three holes you can
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 12: the connections for HDMI and USB to the LCD screen; this is tight, but
it does fit. The USB socket is for power and touch sensing.
Photo 13: the Raspberry Pi in the case and plugged in. The cable at the bottom
supplies power to the LCD screen; it pokes out of the USB hole in the rear of the
case a bit.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 73
Photo 14: the wiring from the power
input to the switch and bypass
capacitor. We use the leads of the
capacitor as connection points for the
amplifier and Raspberry Pi power
converter wiring.
Photo 15: the finished rear panel wiring. The top four new connections are both
for the speakers.
access. The Raspberry Pi obstructs
one, although you may be able to get
a screw in if you take the Raspberry Pi
out. Three is enough, though.
The next bit is one of those jobs
where having three hands and needle-
nosed pliers for fingers would be really
helpful. Go steady, as it does all fit.
First install the 90° HDMI connector to
the HDMI input on the LCD screen. We
then used the provided short HDMI to
HDMI cable and connected it to the
Raspberry Pi’s micro HDMI connector via a right-angled HDMI adaptor
and a micro HDMI to HDMI adaptor.
You may find alternative parts and
approaches, but this fitted well for us.
Again, everything is very snug, so gentle persuasion is the order of the day.
Now install the micro Type-B USB
to Type-A USB cable, which is in the
LCD box. This goes from the “TOUCH”
connector on the LCD to a USB Type-A
port on the Pi. Secure this to the HDMI
cable with a couple of cable ties. Photos 12 & 13 show where things go on
the LCD and Raspberry Pi.
Now turn your attention to the
Radio’s rear panel and mount the barrel power input connector and power
switch. Photo 14 shows how this
should look. The middle pin of the
power jack is normally positive; this
comes out in the middle of the socket.
However, do check that your power
supply’s centre pin is positive first.
Start by installing the 2.1mm barrel
connector and a SPDT switch in the
rear panel, then add the supply bypass
capacitor. This needs to be rated at
35V (or more) and at least 1000μF. We
used a 2200μF, 50V capacitor. We have
printed a holder on the rear panel that
suits an 18mm diameter capacitor.
Insert the capacitor in the holder
and bend the leads as shown to connect to the power input connector. The
negative pin of the capacitor goes to the
barrel connector on the socket. This
is at the top in Photo 14. The positive
pin of the capacitor goes to the switch;
this might need to be extended with a
short length of wire.
You should not need to glue the
capacitor as, with the snug fit of the
holder and the leads being bent and
soldered to the barrel connector, the
capacitor will be secure.
Next, solder a 75mm length of red
light-duty hookup wire to the outer
terminal of the switch; this goes to the
positive pin of the barrel connector.
Insulate these joints with two 15mm
lengths of 3mm diameter heatshrink
tubing. Make sure that you leave
5-10mm of the capacitor leads free, as
these form your positive and negative
power supply connections.
At this point, you should have two
positive and two ground wires waiting to be connected, one pair from the
DC-DC converter and the second from
the amplifier power connections. Solder the power wires from the DC-DC
converter and amplifier to their respective connections on the capacitor.
Now connect the amplifier output
wires. These are 340mm long in red
and green, with pluggable headers for
the amplifier end. Solder these to the
speaker terminals and insulate with
15mm of heatshrink tubing. Refer to
Photo 15 for how this should look.
At this time, you can plug in the
74
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
amplifier output wires and zip-tie
them together. The final looming
should protect the solder junctions
from being flexed and make things
quite tidy.
Now install the speaker terminals.
We have printed holes to accommodate combined screw terminal/banana
sockets. Mount these and connect to
the wires coming from the amplifier
board.
We have included printed feet in the
case design, but it’s ideal to stick four
rubber feet to the bottom of the case.
At this point, all the internal wiring should be finished, with a few zip
ties added to keep everything neat and
tidy, like in Photo 16.
Clip the rear panel on. This will
require you to fit the LCD USB cable
through the hole in the rear panel. It
should all go together very neatly; the
inbuilt clips hold the rear panel in
place. There are four screw holes into
which you can insert 9mm Jiffy box
screws to hold it together. You should
be able to power up the central unit
and get to the Raspberry Pi desktop.
Optional speakers
We used fairly low-cost Altronics C0635 100mm drivers. We tried
cheaper ones, but preferred these.
Because the boxes are built to the size
available, we have made them sealed,
which tends to roll the bass response
off early, avoiding nasty peaks that
can occur with poorly designed bass
reflex alignments.
We then use the equaliser in VLC
media player to correct this early rolloff, which works surprisingly well.
siliconchip.com.au
The underlying hint here is that unless
you really do some homework, spending too much on the drivers is probably a poor investment.
Building the speakers is straightforward. Use four 9mm 4GA Jiffy box
screws and 3mm washers to attach the
drivers to the case. We have included
pilot holes in the 3D print, so you
should have an easy time locating the
screws and drivers.
Install the speaker connectors in
the holes in the rear panel and solder
light-duty hookup wire to the speaker
terminals – see Photo 17.
Get some fibre fill; sheep’s wool or
anything that is likely to absorb energy
from resonances, and stuff the speaker
loosely full. In our case, it was about a
150mm square piece of fibre wadding
that we found in the sewing cupboard.
Pretty much anything like that will do.
Now secure the rear of the case with
four more 9mm Jiffy box screws. We
have printed feet on the unit, but if
you’ve stuck rubber feet on the main
unit, it’s best to do the same on the
matching speakers.
Note that if you want to bolt the
speakers to the central unit boombox
style, you should do this using M4
machine screws prior to installing the
Raspberry Pi (or temporarily take it out
to attach the speakers).
At this point, you should be able to
wire the speakers to the terminals on
the main unit and power the system up.
Getting it up and running
We can now connect everything
together and set it to work. Power
the system up and open VLC Media
Player. We went to the main menu,
right-clicked on VLC and added it to
the taskbar.
Out of the box, the Pi drives the
7-inch LCD screen well, but if this is
to be a dedicated media player, you
probably want a simplified display and
much larger fonts and buttons. Setting
up the display to use large icons and
text is not hard.
1. Click the Raspberry icon and
scroll down to Preferences.
2. Select the “Appearance Settings”
tab.
3. Go across to Defaults. Click
“Defaults” against the line “For Large
Screens”.
4. Click OK.
If you have another monitor, a micro
HDMI cable can plug into the second video port and run through the
rectangular cutout in the rear panel.
The Raspbian system deals with this
pretty much exactly like a Windows or
macOS system. We won’t go into detail
here, but encourage you to explore
some of the extensive documentation
online and learn the subtle differences
that exist.
Setting up media streams
This bit is probably as fiddly as it
will get. The aim is to create some
desktop icons for your favourite radio
stations that you can simply double-
click on to launch VLC Media Player
and listen to them.
Not every station has an internet
stream, but it seems that most do, and
worldwide there are thousands. There
are websites that list the addresses for
radio stations; this one worked well
Photo 16: the fully assembled unit, with the wiring
zip-tied together. The final product should be
pretty tidy.
Photo 17: assembly of the speakers
involves little more than installing the
drivers and some sound-dampening
material.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2026 75
Table 2 – Station name Link
3D Radio http://sounds.threedradio.com:8000/stream
ABC National https://mediaserviceslive.akamaized.net/hls/live/2038318/rnnsw/index.m3u8
ABC News http://live-radio01.mediahubaustralia.com/PBW/mp3
Triple J unearthed https://mediaserviceslive.akamaized.net/hls/live/2038305/triplejunearthed/masterhq.m3u8
MMM Adelaide http://legacy.scahw.com.au/5mmm_32
The Bone FM San Francisco https://playerservices.streamtheworld.com/api/livestream-redirect/KSANFM.mp3
Triple R http://realtime.rrr.org.au/p1h
for us: https://fmstream.org/index.
php?c=AUS
This site has a massive list. If you
select “Links”, you can copy the web
links below. Put the text into a file with
the extension “.m3u”. Some example links to internet radio stations are
shown in Table 2.
Our approach to this Internet Radio
is more about making a really simple
way for you to get going with the Linux
environment, avoiding unnecessary
complexity. Once you are happy with
what we have set up, we are sure you
will seek more complexity and move
on from this minimum but sufficient
capability. To create some desktop
icons, you can:
1. Click on the Raspberry symbol in
the top-left corner of the screen.
2. Scroll down to “Accessories”,
then choose “Mousepad” from this
Screen 5: opening the mousepad program in Raspberry Pi OS.
menu (see Screen 5). This will open
an editor screen.
3. Type http://sounds.threedradio.
com:8000/stream
4. Click “File” in the top menu.
5. Select “Save As”.
6. Double-click on “Desktop” to save
this to the desktop.
7. This will open a screen with
“Name” at the top.
8. Type “Three D Radio.m3u” (see
Screen 6).
9. Click Save in the bottom-right of
this window.
10. Close all the windows you have
opened.
You will now see an icon on the
desktop named: “Three D Radio.m3u”
(Screen 7). The m3u extension indicates that this is a stream, and VLC
should open it. Double-clicking this
icon will open VLC Media Player and
start streaming the station.
You can do exactly the same for any
station with an internet stream that
you choose. If you only have a few stations you want to play, which is true
for most of us, this will be a good way
to start. Similarly, if you have a folder
with a load of music files, you can use
VLC to play them.
Setting up VLC
Screen 6: using mousepad to save the file “Three D Radio m3u”.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Why do we recommend VLC for this
project? VLC media player is baked
into the full Raspbian install, and it
‘just works’. Even in 2001, when we
first saw VLC, it was famous for playing anything. Over the intervening
years, development has continued,
and it remains a very stable player that
many people will be at home with.
Now let’s apply some equalisation to
the speakers. The ones we’ve designed
are not hifi, but with the power of the
Raspberry Pi and VLC Media Player,
we can add equalisation to get the most
out of them. Open VLC Media Player,
select “Effects and Filters” (Screen 8)
and you will find a 10-band equaliser
(see Screen 9).
siliconchip.com.au
We needed to change the sliders on
each band, then click Enable a couple
of times to update the EQ. If you add
a lot of gain to the bass, you will find
the system clips, so you will need to
reduce the gain on the leftmost slider,
“preamp”. We recommend that you
fiddle with these until you are happy
with the sound from the speakers you
have chosen to use.
If you are running the Internet Radio
from a 24V plugpack, you will have
oodles of power that can be used to
get some bass boost, but be aware that
you will probably run out of physical
capacity in the speakers (principally
cone excursion) before the amplifier
runs out of power.
The speakers specified needed some
bass boost, with the midrange attenuated and treble boosted, in a typical
‘loudness’ curve (see Screen 9). This
counteracts the roll-off these speakers
exhibit in such a small box, and the
final result sounded way better than
we expected.
The 7-inch screen we’re using is
more than enough to drive VLC, but
for anything beyond that, it is not large
enough. If you want to use the Internet
Radio for anything more than playing
music, plug a micro HDMI to HDMI
adaptor into the second HDMI port
on the Pi. Assemble it with the HDMI
socket outside the case; the cable will
fit through the hole we have for the
USB connectors.
You can then plug in a decent external monitor. That will give you plenty
of real estate to work with.
If you want to use this computer for
more than just music, we recommend
that you get yourself a Raspberry Pi 5
with 8GB of memory (16GB is available, but there is a big step in cost). The
Raspberry Pi 5 does not have a 3.5mm
audio socket, so you will need to add
an audio output.
You can do this by adding an audio
DAC Hat, such as the Raspberry Pi
DAC+, or you can plug in a USB
audio adaptor. To set these up, click
the audio icon on the top right of the
screen, and select your audio interface.
Screen 7: internet radio links on the Pi desktop. Double-clicking these will
launch VLC Media Player and open the stream.
Screen 8: VLC’s Tools menu lets you open the Effects and Filters dialog.
Conclusion
Wow, you’ve built a Linux-powered
Internet Radio boombox and computer. We trust that you got this working, and for those with little Linux
experience, that it went well. We look
forward to hearing how you modify
SC
and tailor this to your needs.
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 9: click on the “Equaliser” tab on the left and adjust the EQ until it
sounds good with the speakers you have selected.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 77
Sometimes measuring the temperature is just not enough; you need to see how the
temperature changes over time. This simple, compact and
inexpensive thermometer provides a low-cost solution.
Graphing
Thermometer
Andrew Woodfield’s
O
ver the past year or so, I’ve found
myself designing an increasing
number of circuits with surface-mount
devices (SMD). That required a set
of tools for building prototype SMD
printed circuit boards (PCBs) in my
workshop.
One of those tools is a hot plate
reflow soldering system, made from a
500W electrically heated metal plate
measuring about 100 × 200mm. The
controller adjusts the heating of the
plate so it matches the recommended
temperature profile for reflow soldering of SMD components.
To design the controller and build
the reflow plate system, I needed a
way to measure temperatures as high
as 300°C. As Lord Kelvin once said:
When you can measure what you
are speaking about, and express it in
numbers, you know something about
it. When you
cannot express
it in numbers,
your knowledge
is of a meager
and unsatisfactory kind; it may
be the beginning of
knowledge, but you
have scarcely, in your
thoughts, advanced to
the stage of science.
This certainly applies
to SMD reflow soldering. Without careful and
accurate temperature
Photo 1: a typical
low-cost non-contact
infrared temperature
measurement ‘gun’.
78
Silicon Chip
low-cost
measurement directly on the PCB, ideally as close as possible to the solder
paste and components, and a method
to observe the temperature variations
as changes are made to the reflow hot
plate hardware and controller software, it is very difficult to understand
what is going on.
Temperature measurement
devices
Initially, I purchased an inexpensive
infrared (IR) ‘gun’ for these measurements, shown in Photo 1. It displays
the average temperature of 3-10cm
diameter sections of the hot plate.
This is the approximate area that the
gun’s sensor measures. The measured
area also depended on the distance
between the gun and the hot plate. It
was challenging to get consistent temperature measurements.
The reflow controller I was designing measured the hot plate temperature with a thermocouple mounted
inside the hotplate. This temperature
was shown on the controller’s LCD
screen.
Thermocouples are made from two
dissimilar metal alloy conductors
welded together at one end. The measurement point looks like a tiny metallic ball. This sensor generates a tiny
voltage that is proportional to the temperature of that ball. Commonly available low-cost K-type thermocouples
can be used to measure temperatures
from about -200 to +1370°C.
However, results sometimes differed between the infrared gun and the
hotplate thermocouple. Which value
was correct? Given that they were
Australia's electronics magazine
measured at slightly different locations, they could both be correct. As
the saying goes, “A person with two
clocks never knows the right time”.
I needed another thermometer, ideally using a small, low-mass temperature sensor to precisely measure the
temperature at the desired location.
Thermocouples come in many
forms. Some are enclosed in a protective cover or are physically large.
These can have a significant ‘thermal
inertia’, taking some time to report
the temperature, so I wanted to avoid
using those. Also, I wanted a thermometer that was small enough to be
shifted easily around the workbench
to measure temperatures at different
locations in the reflow equipment.
I also recognised that it was essential
to graph the measured temperatures
during the entire reflow process. These
‘temperature profiles’ (the temperature
variation over time) can vary dramatically with each change in configuration, equipment, control software
and reflow materials. That made it all
the more important to view the overall result for each four to five-minute
reflow test run.
It is possible to buy a low-cost thermocouple-based thermometer interface for use with a laptop or tablet.
However, such arrangements are quite
unwieldy in many situations. All the
required power cables add to the muddle on my already untidy bench.
I tried to find a ready-made graphing thermometer, ideally a compact,
portable, battery-powered device.
You might think there are many such
devices for sale. But surprisingly, at
siliconchip.com.au
least when I searched, I could not
find anything suitable aside from several rather expensive meters from US
retailers. This led me to design this
simple and very low-cost thermocouple graphing thermometer.
Design objectives
As I mentioned, I need to measure
temperatures up to 300°C. A measurement accuracy of ±10°C is acceptable
in this case, provided the results are
repeatable. When reading 300°C, that
equates to a ±3% error. This appears
to be in line with many commercial
thermometers.
Since there are other applications for this type of thermometer,
I felt other ranges would be useful.
The Thermometer’s design therefore
allows for maximum temperatures on
the LCD screen vertical axis ranging
from 50°C to 600°C.
While some K-type thermocouples
can handle temperatures up to 1300°C,
the materials used in the least expensive sensors appear only suitable for
temperatures up to about 600°C. However, health and safety risks (and my
anxiety) substantially increase above
600°C, so that sets the upper limit.
Temperature samples taken at rates
from once per second to, say, once
every 5-10 seconds seemed suitable.
Looking at a number of potential
LCD screens, and allowing for graph
axes and labels, 100 samples plotted
along the horizontal axis of each graph
appeared to be the practical limit.
That gave an equivalent horizontal time axis span of between 100 and
1000 seconds (less than 2 minutes to
a little over 15 minutes) per screen.
Most reflow profiles run for 3-6 minutes (180 to 360 seconds), so this was
well within this measurement range.
To allow for other uses, I extended the
sampling rate range further. The final
range of 1-900 seconds per sample (up
to 15 minutes) provides a maximum
screen x-axis span of up to 25 hours
or just over one day.
Hardware considerations
The typical approach for temperature measurements is to use a lowcost K-type thermocouple, an Analog
Devices (originally Maxim) MAX6675
or MAX31855 8-pin IC as the interface
device, and a microcontroller. The
display, whether a 7-segment LED
display, LCD screen or OLED screen,
is also driven by the microcontroller.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Graphing Thermometer
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 04102261, 70 × 56mm
1 ATtiny85-20PU 8-pin, 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 0410226A.
HEX, DIP-8 (IC1)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 1.7-inch 128×64-pixel LCD screen with 3.3V UC1701X controller (LCD1)
[AliExpress 32215047945]
1 0.9-3.3V to 3.3V boost regulator module (REG1)
[AliExpress 4000252822321]
3 4-pin PCB-mounting tactile switches (S1-S3)
[Altronics S1122, Jaycar SP0603]
1 DPDT slide switch (S4) [Altronics S2010, Jaycar SS0852]
1 AA or AAA cell holder (BAT1)
[Altronics S5026/S5054 or Jaycar PH9203/PH9261]
1 AA or AAA cell (BAT1)
1 2-way barrier screw-type terminal block connector (CON1)
[RS 144-8151, AliExpress 4000170287617]
1 8-pin header socket and matching header strip (CON2)
1 2-pin header socket and matching header strip (CON3)
Capacitors
1 47μF 16V electrolytic
2 100nF 50V ceramic
Resistors (all axial ¼W ±5% or better)
3 10kW
2 4.7kW
1 150-1000W (depending on desired backlight brightness; see text)
I was keen to minimise the component count, along with the overall size
and cost of the device.
I wrote some software a few years
ago for a soldering iron temperature
controller. Originally designed for
cheap thermistor-monitored soldering
iron handpieces, some builders had
encouraged me to try to modify it for
the less common thermocouple-based
handpieces (see www.zl2pd.com/
SolderingStation.html).
It proved possible to do this with
the 8-pin ATtiny85 that I’d used for
the original controller. I didn’t develop
that option any further – I already had
the thermistor-type soldering station
I’d designed.
That software used an unusual
analog-to-digital converter (ADC) feature available on a few members of the
ATtiny microcontroller family. This is
a two-input balanced ADC interface
that also includes an optional integrated 20× gain stage. There is also a
1.1V internal ADC reference available.
Those features make these ATtiny
microcontrollers suitable for thermocouple sensors. The ATtiny85 was the
smallest in this family, coming in an
8-pin package. Would it be possible to
connect everything else that would be
necessary for a graphing thermometer
within that 8-pin package limit?
Australia's electronics magazine
To answer this question, I turned
to the display. I wanted to graph the
results on a small graphics-
capable
display. One set of possibilities was
the compatible and well-known
128×64 pixel 0.96in (24mm) or 1.3in
(33mm) OLED screens.
While the text on these is perfectly
readable, my eyesight is no longer
‘fighter pilot’ quality. Tests confirmed
that the individual graphed pixels
were just a bit small. I did not want to
be trying to peer at a display located in
close proximity to something at 300°C.
I value my eyebrows!
Another option was one of the
larger legacy KS0108B or T6963Ctype 128×64 pixel LCD screens. While
low in cost, these demand a cluster of
processor pins for data and control. A
1.8in (46mm) colour TFT LCD screen
also looked possible, but the software
necessary to drive its larger 160×128pixel display looked likely to exceed
the limited 8kiB firmware space in
the ATtiny85.
I found the solution in a low-cost
UC1701X-based 128×64 pixel 1.7in
(43mm) LCD. It’s large enough to be
readable, includes an excellent integrated LED backlight, and is controlled
over a simple three-wire SPI serial
peripheral interface, along with chip
select (CS) and reset inputs.
March 2026 79
Fig.1: the Graphing
Thermometer is
based on ATtiny85
microcontroller
IC1. Its eight
pins are just
sufficient to handle
thermocouple
sensing, LCD
updates and
pushbutton
sensing.
Three pushbuttons would also be
required for the Up, Down, and Next
user control pushbuttons. When I
added all this up, it would require ten
I/O pins. The ATtiny85 only has six.
However, with a little software and
hardware effort, it proved possible to
squeeze everything onto that device.
The LCD screen also determined the
power supply design, as it requires a
3.3V supply. Tests during development showed that this voltage is surprisingly critical. If the LCD supply
voltage falls below 2.7V, it starts to
misbehave, reversing and inverting
text and graphics in quite disconcerting ways. So, in case you are tempted,
this is not a design to power from a
pair of 1.5V cells.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the graphing thermocouple thermometer. You
will see there’s very little hardware
in this meter! The Microchip (Atmel)
ATtiny85 microcontroller handles the
measurements, drives the LCD screen
and senses button presses. It’s clocked
from the ATtiny85’s internal 8MHz RC
oscillator divided down to 4MHz to
reduce current consumption.
A tiny boost regulator module
increases the AAA cell’s 1.5V output to
a reliable 3.3V supply, as required for
the LCD screen. Most of these modules
at the time of writing use the very efficient ME2108A switching regulator.
However, the prototype’s module used
a TPS61201. These operate similarly.
These regulators are rated up to 1A,
but the current drawn by this meter is
a miserly 6mA at 3.3V. The 80% regulator efficiency results in about 15mA
being drawn from the 1.5V battery.
This gives a reasonable battery life for
typical intermittent use.
Since omitting the typical MAX6675
thermocouple interface chip results in
the need to use one of the balanced
analog-to-digital converters in the
ATtiny85, two input pins are required
on the ATtiny85 for the thermocouple.
These are both internally configured
as ADC inputs. One of these pins (pin
2) is then tied to ground.
This may seem to be a significant
waste of I/O resources, but that’s the
only option when using the balanced
ADC mode.
The user pushbuttons connect to a
single pin on the ATtiny85 via four
resistors. Each pushbutton produces
a different DC voltage on pin 1 of the
ATtiny85. This voltage is read by the
internal 10-bit analog-to-digital converter, allowing the pushbutton status to be determined by the software.
Unusually, this pin is also used as
an output. It drives the active-low chip
select line for the LCD’s UC1701X
on-glass controller. The UC1701X
controller inside the LCD only sees a
voltage that falls below 0.7V as a valid
CS low signal. The pushbutton resistors are therefore selected to avoid this
voltage range.
The prototype
Graphing
Thermometer (shown
at actual size here)
was built on a singlesided PCB. The AA or
AAA-cell holder on
the back props it up at
a useful viewing angle
for the LCD. I used a
1kW backlight resistor.
80
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Even if a pushbutton is pressed
during a display update, the selection
is (briefly) ignored. The resistor values ensure that the LCD only sees the
processor’s commands. Once the display is updated, the processor can go
back to detecting the pushbutton status. This novel arrangement ensures
there is no disturbance to the operation
of the display, yet key presses can be
detected as needed.
The LCD’s SPI connections use
the three remaining pins. The LCD’s
remaining pin, the reset input, is
only toggled when the LCD’s power
is applied. It’s not otherwise used. A
resistor and capacitor are used to generate this power-on-reset signal. This
avoids using another processor pin.
The LCD has an integrated LED
backlight. A 150-1000W resistor supplies 2-10mA current for this from
the 3.3V rail. Higher values provide
extended battery life – with a 1kW
resistor, the backlight current is just
2mA.
Alternatively, the backlight supply resistor may be removed (using
reflected light only to see the screen).
Another option is to connect an external toggle switch connected in series
with it to save power when making use
of the longer sampling intervals that
are possible, while still being able to
use the backlight when required.
A 1kW backlight resistor gives a relatively modest light level. If brighter
light levels are required, this can be
changed, for example, to 560W (moderate brightness) or 150W (high brightness).
voltage and calculates the temperature from this. This value is reported
on the LCD screen, in the lower lefthand corner, and the value is plotted
on the graph. After 100 samples are
plotted, the screen is erased and a new
plot begins automatically.
Accurate thermocouple measurements require cold-junction compensation. This method measures
the temperature at the thermocouple
meter terminals (the ‘cold junction’)
using another thermometer and corrects the thermocouple measurement
accordingly.
The ATtiny85 has an internal temperature sensor, but I am not using it.
Instead, a simple ‘thermocouple offset’
value is entered in the meter, a method
suggested by Horowitz and Hall in the
reference textbook “The Art of Electronics”. As the authors suggest, it
works well when measuring over these
temperatures (see below).
Construction
The graphic thermometer is built
on a single-sided 70 × 56mm PCB
that’s coded 04102261 (see Fig.2). All
the components are mounted on this,
including the AAA cell holder. No
additional wiring is necessary, which
makes for a fast and easy build.
Start by soldering the resistors and
capacitors. Then, using some of the
cut-off leads of those resistors, install
the three PCB links located at the
top-centre of the board (if you’re using
a commercially made board, it might
not need links fitted).
Next, gently bend the leads of the
47μF capacitor at right angles and then
mount it as shown in Fig.2. This polarised component must be mounted so
that the shorter negative lead is closest
to the edge of the PCB.
The three standard tactile 6×6mm
pushbuttons can be fitted next. The
pushbuttons come in a variety of shaft
Cold-junction compensation for thermocouples
The meter software is written in
Bascom, the Basic-like compiler for
the AVR processor family. This allows
for relatively quick software development. The compiler generates surprisingly efficient code, and the resulting
software occupies about 90% of the
available program space.
After initialisation and user selection of settings, the device spends
most of the time waiting for the current sampling period to expire. During
this time, the pushbuttons are checked
for a user ‘Next’ command. That will
result in the meter exiting the display
mode and returning for new user settings and a new graph plot.
After each sampling period has
passed, the ATtiny’s analog-to-digital
converter samples the thermocouple
A conductor generates a voltage proportional to the temperature difference
across it (Fig.a). This is called the Seebeck effect. We described this in detail on
page 51 of the November 2023 issue (siliconchip.au/Article/16013). This tiny
voltage cannot be measured directly because it is cancelled out by the voltage
generated as a result of the connections required by the measurement circuit.
However, by joining two conductors, each made from a different material,
the difference between the voltages generated by this pair of conductors can
be measured. These wires are welded together at one end to form the ‘thermocouple’ (Fig.b).
K-type thermocouples made from Chromel and Alumel are the most common. These produce about 41µV/°C. This value varies slightly due to slight
manufacturing and materials differences. They are typically used to measure temperatures from -200°C to
+1350°C.
However, the thermocouple’s
voltage is proportional to the temperature difference between the hot
Fig.a: a temperature
junction (the measurement point)
difference across a conductor
and the cold junction (the connecgenerates a small voltage.
tions to the measurement circuit).
The temperature at the cold junction must therefore also be known
to calculate the actual temperature
at the hot junction.
The best way to do this is to integrate another type of temperature
sensor into the measurement chip.
However, since an instrument like
Fig.b: a thermocouple temp sensor.
this is normally used over a relatively narrow range of ambient temperatures (eg, the indoor temperature may
normally only vary between 20°C and 30°C), and the required accuracy may
not be high, a simpler cold-junction calibration method may be employed.
By measuring the thermocouple’s output voltage at a known temperature
with another sensor, it is possible to determine the hot junction temperature.
If calibrated this way, as long as the ambient temperature doesn’t vary much,
the readings will still be reasonably accurate.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Software
March 2026 81
Fig.2: the single-sided PCB
holds all the parts required
for the meter, including its
power supply. If a doublesided PCB is used, the wire
links are not required. The
2-way socket above S1
provides a solid mounting
for the LCD.
lengths but, in this case, any length
will work just fine. Next, mount the
8-pin DIL socket for the ATtiny85
IC and install the 12-way and 2-way
socket strips for the LCD connections.
In the prototype, I only installed
eight of the 12 pins (LCD pins 5-12),
since pins 1-4 are not actually used
by the display.
The matching pin-strip connectors
should then be fitted to the LCD. The
pins on the prototype had a conical
taper and a flat pin face (see Fig.3).
These were soldered with the flat pin
face mounted against the LCD. This
ensured the longer pin shafts are free
to mate with the matching pin-socket
strip.
Do not plug in the LCD screen yet.
This will be done after completing
some initial tests.
Next, solder the DPDT slide switch
and the two-way 7.62mm spacing
screw connector for the thermocouple.
Don’t connect the thermocouple itself
just yet. It tends to get in the way of
the remainder of the assembly.
The boost regulator module can
now be mounted on the PCB. It should
be installed close and parallel to the
board, to allow the LCD screen to be
plugged into place.
Mount the AA or AAA cell holder
on the solder side of the PCB. If you
have a commercially made PCB, you
can solder this in place easily from
the component side of the PCB, since
the pads are almost always throughplated.
If you have made the PCB at home,
you will need to leave a 3-5mm space
between the base of the battery holder
and the PCB so you can carefully solder these pads with the tip of your
soldering iron.
You’ll find that when the thermocouple thermometer is operating, the
battery holder gives the user a convenient viewing angle for looking at the
LCD screen.
Initial testing
Do not plug in the ATtiny85 IC or
LCD screen yet. Insert a fresh AA or
AAA 1.5V cell. Zinc-carbon or alkaline types may both be used. Connect
a DC voltmeter between pin 8 (positive meter lead) and pin 4 (negative
meter lead) of IC1’s socket. Switch on
the power and confirm that the meter
reads between 3.0 and 3.3V.
Next, making sure no buttons are
pressed, check that the voltage on pin
1 of IC1’s socket is also 3.0-3.3V.
Press the Up button only, then the
Down button only, and finally the Next
button only. The voltmeter should
read 2.1V, 1.5V and 1.0V (±0.1V) for
these tests, respectively. If these are
not correct, check that the resistors
are fitted in the correct locations, soldered correctly, and that there are no
solder bridges.
Programming the ATtiny85
Fig.3: the pin-strip connector should
ideally be fitted as shown.
82
Silicon Chip
You may have purchased a preprogrammed ATtiny85. In this case, you
may ignore this section. If not, you will
need to program your ATtiny85’s flash
program memory with the project’s
HEX file, then program the ATtiny85’s
fuse settings. These configure some
internal ATtiny85 settings.
The complete details are shown in
Australia's electronics magazine
the panel titled “Programming the
ATtiny85”.
Final assembly
Carefully insert the programmed
ATtiny85 into its socket, then plug
the LCD screen into its sockets. You
may wish to add a couple of small
self-adhesive rubber feet to the lower
underside edge of the PCB, to avoid
scratching your test bench. The battery holder provides the upper edge
footing and allows the meter to rest
on the bench or table at a useful viewing angle.
If you wish, the meter may also be
mounted in an enclosure, but this is
not essential.
Finally, connect your K-type thermocouple to the screw connectors
(CON1). Thermocouples are polarised.
It must be connected correctly or the
meter will not operate properly, so
if you get strange measurements, try
swapping the leads.
Operation
After switching on the power, a
‘splash screen’ graphic will briefly
appear on the LCD. This is cleared,
then a prompt asks the user to select
the maximum temperature for the vertical axis graph display. Use the Up
and Down keys to change the value
(in 50°C steps), or press the Next key
to continue with the default value of
300°C.
The second and final prompt asks
the user to select the required sampling
rate. There are various possible values
for this period, from 1 to 900 seconds.
Use the Up and Down keys to change
the period, or press the ‘Next’ key to
use the default period of three seconds.
100 temperature measurements
are then taken and plotted on each
screen. The value of each measurement is also briefly written in the LCD’s
siliconchip.com.au
Programming the ATtiny85
Unless you purchase a programmed ATtiny85, it is necessary to program your
blank ATtiny85 before using it. A programmer like the USBasp (www.fischl.
de/usbasp) is required. It can be purchased online from many suppliers often
for less than $10.
Such programmers are used with a PC or laptop. Suitable software is available for Windows, Linux and macOS online. This description will focus on the
Windows platform.
You will also need an adaptor to connect the appropriate DIL IC pins to the
programmer. My 8-pin adaptor was published in the September 2020 issue
(on page 47; siliconchip.au/Article/14563) and the PCB is still available (from
siliconchip.au/Shop/8/5642).
The drivers for the chosen programmer must be installed prior to using it.
The drivers for the USBasp can also be obtained from the link above.
Programming software is required to actually program the ATtiny85 from Windows, Linux or macOS. Suitable free software for Windows includes eXtreme
Burner (siliconchip.au/link/ab3m), AVRDUDESS (siliconchip.au/link/ab3n)
and Khazama (siliconchip.au/link/ac9e).
There are a number of websites and YouTube videos describing the setup
and use of these programs. Here is a summary of the procedure required to
program the ATtiny85 for this project:
O Load the USBasp drivers onto the Windows PC
O Plug in and complete the installation of the USBasp programmer. If the
option is present on the USBasp programmer, and some boards support this
feature, select 5V operation rather than 3.3V for programming the ATtiny85.
O Download the programming software and install it. Once running, select
“ATtiny85” as the target device.
O Download the HEX file for this project (siliconchip.au/Shop/6/3578) and
select it as the file to be used to program the ATtiny85.
Note: Some versions of the Extreme software require the replacement of
the chips.xml and fuselayout.xml device files to program the ATtiny85. These
two files are found (in a typical Windows install of Extreme) under C:\Program
Files\Extreme Programmer AVR\Data.
Rename the original file called chips.xml to oldchips.xml and fuselayout.
xml to oldfuselayout.xml. Then unzip the new files from the file extremeXML
update.zip into that directory. Restarting Extreme will allow the programming
of this and several other AVR devices.
lower left-hand corner. When the
graph reaches the right-hand side, the
ATtiny85 clears the display, redraws
the graph axes, then proceeds to plot
another 100 measurements.
Holding the Next key down for a
second at any time during the graph
display will cause the meter to exit
the measurement and display process
and then prompts the user for new settings again.
Calibration
Holding the Next key down when
the meter is switched on enters a special routine to calibrate the meter with
its low cost K-type thermocouple.
These thermocouples vary slightly
due to materials and manufacturing.
This routine allows an offset to be
entered to better match the display to
the actual temperature, particularly in
the 0-200°C range.
siliconchip.com.au
Connect the thermocouple to the
meter and check the current room
temperature from another thermometer. Let’s say it reads 18°C.
Switch on the meter while holding
the Next button down. After the splash
screen, it will then report the temperature as seen by the thermocouple, and
prompt the user to adjust this to match
the correct value.
Use the Up and Down keys to do
this. Then press the Next key again.
The meter will then save the required
offset in the ATtiny’s internal EEPROM
for future use.
With a 10-bit ADC, the temperature resolution is around 4°C. Thus,
you may not be able to get the calibration exact; within about ±2°C is
good enough.
This usually only needs to be done
once. From this point onward, the
meter will use these settings. They
Australia's electronics magazine
Screen 1: one of the graphs produced
by my Thermometer from my reflow
hotplate. The thermocouple was
placed on top of a PCB, and the
temperature was sampled once every
three seconds. The latest measurement
is reported in the lower-left corner of
the screen.
Screen 2: a domestic oven was set to
170°C and the internal temperature
was monitored with the thermocouple
mounted centrally above a wire tray.
The graph shows the oven reaching
temperature after about eight minutes,
rising and falling slightly as the oven
holds that temperature.
remain set at these values until you
decide to reprogram them. Powering
down does not alter them.
Final comments
I found that this meter met practically all of my requirements. I’ve used
it extensively to plot numerous runs of
my reflow hot-plate system. I’ve also
used it, for example, to check the operation of our oven.
A feature I would have liked to
include in the design was a method
to save the results shown on the LCD
screen for long-term documentation.
Sadly, there were no free pins available to support that function. Taking
a photo of the LCD screen is probably
the easiest solution.
In the meantime, it’s proving very
handy. No doubt, other uses will come
to mind now it is in my workshop. I
hope you find it equally useful! SC
March 2026 83
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Doing the dirty work
When a kitchen appliance fails,
among the most dreaded must be
the dishwasher. When it stops midcycle and refuses to proceed, you
can’t troubleshoot without first
removing the dirty dishes and bailing out
the greasy, soupy water in the sump. It is tedious
and unpleasant, to say the least.
The second, more physically demanding chore, is to
extract the beast from its cavity under the kitchen bench.
At some 50kg, our failed dishwasher is no lightweight, and
its German designers never thought to equip it with roller
wheels (for some reason).
Despite putting up stiff resistance, with a combination
of tugging while simultaneously rocking it side to side, it
gradually emerged, exposing 10 years’ worth of grime and
dust. Now at last I could remove the metal side panels and
get to the inner workings.
This unit had performed faultlessly for 10 years and had
always delivered great results. Its sudden and unexpected
failure suggested a problem that might be simple or obvious. At least that’s what I hoped. I decided to run a short
cycle to better observe its behaviour leading up to the point
where it would stop.
It began normally. The drain pump cleared the residual water, then it refilled and began the pre-wash cycle.
However, after a few minutes, it just stopped with the time
remaining indicator showing zero. It had failed to progress
to the main wash, which was baffling.
The water was getting to where it should be, the circulation motor was running and the water was pumping
out during the initial drain. All conditions necessary to
proceed seemed to have been satisfied, so why did it stop
prematurely?
84
Silicon Chip
I hoped that a Google search might help me locate some
service information or a schematic, but the corporate world
protects its secrets. However, I found an abundance of YouTube videos pointing toward the usual suspects being blockages, pump failures, or a failed heating element. These all
checked out OK on our machine.
The heating element is part of the main pump unit. Being
connected to the control unit by heavy-duty wiring makes it
easy to identify for the purpose of checking the resistance.
This was as it should be, at around 20W.
Having eliminated the prime suspects, the remaining possibilities seemed to be that the control module
itself may have failed, or perhaps a malfunctioning sensor could have confused the control module, leading
to a shutdown. I removed the control module for close
inspection, but it looked pristine with no components
damaged or burnt.
From past experience, I knew that a sensor that failed
to return the expected signal could cause a dishwasher
to stop mid-cycle. Years ago, many dishwashers (and
washing machines for that matter) had a motor-driven
switching mechanism. The motor advanced the mechanism, and a large knob on the front of the dishwasher
rotated accordingly to indicate the progress through the
program.
I had a dishwasher like that; it had both cold and a hot
tap connections. The main wash cycle used only hot water.
When the hot water solenoid went open-circuit, the motorised switch would be paused, waiting for a signal from
the water level sensor. With a failed solenoid, the required
water level would not be reached and, in the absence of a
signal, the motor would not be powered on.
At that point, the program would be abruptly halted.
The result was not unlike what I was experiencing with
the current unit.
Motorised switches have long been replaced with microprocessor electronics, enabling more advanced functions,
including the reporting of error codes. Unfortunately, I
had no error codes for guidance and no service information that might have given a clue about how many sensors
there were or what functions they performed.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I was on the verge of giving up. Judging by the wiring
that snaked throughout the machine, most of the sensors
appeared to be well buried in the bowels of the device.
However, there was one sensor that stood out.
Most of the space on one side of the dishwasher is taken
up with a large, translucent plastic box containing an intricate labyrinth of water galleries. I’m guessing that its purpose is to store and regulate the inflow of water, and it may
also save energy by warming the stored water using heat
released during the wash cycle.
Mounted in a recess on the plastic box is one very obvious sensor that is easily accessible, shown in the accompanying photo. I decided it was worthy of closer examination as a last resort.
It appears to be a flow meter, which lives in the water
inlet path. A small, bladed impeller with an embedded magnet rotates with the flow of incoming water. With a torch,
I could faintly see it spin inside its translucent housing.
Sitting outside in a recess was a reed switch, a glass capsule with metallic contacts that should close each time the
impeller magnet passes.
I can only speculate about the purpose of this sensor. It is
obviously able to inform the controller about the flow rate
and volume of water entering. Maybe it’s a safety device.
Perhaps a runaway count might signal an overflow of water,
prompting a shutdown.
Alternatively, if the impeller seized or the reed switch
failed to register, the controller might be programmed to
halt the process due to failure of the device for safety reasons or because insufficient water had been received.
The reed switch was mounted on a small circuit board
and was easily removed for testing using a simple magnet
and multimeter. The contacts inside the glass envelope
would close as they should when the magnet came near. I
could not fault it, but decided to reinstall it anyway.
I ran the short cycle again. This time, the cycle progressed
properly, and the machine ran for the full duration of the
main wash but then stopped, showing an E14 error code
for the first time. It had failed to perform the final, critical
drain. It wasn’t a complete cure, but it was pleasing progress nevertheless.
siliconchip.com.au
A quick consultation with the internet confirmed that E14
was indeed associated with a flow meter fault or a problem
with the water intake. Could it be that the reed switch had
aged and become unreliable?
I have had some previous experience with reed switch
faults. In the 1980s, new telephone exchange equipment
was installed that employed reed switches. Error reports
showed that some reeds mounted on circuit cards were
prone to sticking. To prove the fault, the cards needed to
be very gently removed and the suspect reeds checked
with a multimeter.
Sure enough, certain reeds on the board were sticking
with contacts closed. The gentlest tap on the card was
enough to cause the contacts to open with an audible click.
A quick trip to Jaycar and I obtained a visually identical reed switch for less than the cost of a cup of coffee. I
soldered the new one in place of the old one on its circuit
board and reinstalled it. I pressed Start.
Success! The dishwasher ran perfectly, advancing
through every stage, including the final drain. Incredibly,
an expensive dishwasher had been brought to its knees by
quite possibly the cheapest component in the entire device.
Alan Preacher, Briar Hill, Vic.
The red arrow points to the recessed sensor located in a
plastic housing. This sensor is likely a flow meter.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 85
Dredge boat radio repair
In the distant past, I was married to a Sydney girl, but
we lived in Newcastle. One weekend, we were visiting the
relos in Sydney when the brother-in-law, an electrician,
stated he was on call for the port of Botany Bay for the
weekend, and had a call out for the dredge that had twoway radio problems.
He said, you know more about electronics than I do; can
you come with me?
We went to the dock, and a tug was waiting to take us
to the dredge. When onboard and taken to the radio room,
we found that the radio was relaying all calls received and
making an echo on the network.
I picked up the mic and asked the harbour master for a
radio check. He told me that the problem was still there.
I then realised that I had not heard the clunk of the relay
switching to transmit mode. We opened the box (about half
a meter square) and found the relay. It was plugged into
the circuit board.
The points were fused together. We managed to separate
them with a screwdriver. We found the onboard chippy and
got some sandpaper from him to smooth them out. That
got it working again, for the time being. We also asked the
chippy to tell the electrician, on return from his break, to
order a new relay.
They fed us dinner and gave us some beer. As my brother-
in-law was on call, he was not allowed to drink, but I was,
so that was my pay for doing the job! We had to wait about
two hours for the tug to come back.
Mick Toomey, Newcastle, NSW.
Breville microwave repair
My wife told me that there was something wrong with
our microwave, as it sounded different from usual. I could
tell from how it sounded that the cooling fan had stopped
working. I was hoping that it was just the fan motor, as
that would be an easy fix as long as I could find a replacement part.
We found this microwave at one of the local tip shops
about four years ago. It was in almost-new condition but
needed a good clean as it had obviously been stored for
an extended period. Until now, it had been very reliable.
I took the microwave to my workshop and removed the
six screws that hold the cover on. The fan is located in
the back right-hand corner. I disconnected the two wires
going to it and got out my multimeter to check the resistance of the winding. The winding was open-circuit, so
that explained why the fan no longer worked.
The next question was whether I could find a replacement fan motor. I started by unscrewing the circuit board
on top of the fan housing, then I removed the screw from
the back of the microwave that was holding the fan motor
housing in place. To remove the fan motor housing from
the microwave, I had to first remove the magnetron, as it
was stopping the fan motor housing from tilting forward
enough to remove it.
An eBay search for a fan motor to suit this model of the
microwave was not successful, although I did see one or
two listings. I changed my search to the part number of
the motor, and I found a couple more listings from China,
but when I switched from default to Australia only, there
were none.
I changed my search to worldwide and set the search to
price plus postage, lowest first. This showed many listings
for this part, and it also showed that this exact fan motor is
used in a multitude of different brand microwaves. I was
able to purchase a replacement fan motor for $15.27 with
free postage, but I would now have to wait for it to arrive
from China, which could take up to four weeks.
In the meantime, my wife found another microwave at
the local tip shop for $10 and it was still in very good condition. It had been tested before she purchased it to make
sure that it worked.
Amazingly, the new fan motor arrived in just 11 days
from China. It was obviously an after-market replacement,
as it did not have the part number on the side like the
original motor. The next problem was that I was unable
to remove the fan from the old motor. However, I was able
to change the rotor, with the fan blade attached to it, into
the new stator.
The two motors were almost exactly identical, enabling
me to swap the parts, and the rebuilt motor worked as
expected. I reassembled the microwave and tested it by
putting a cup of water in it and running it. I could hear
that the fan was running, and the microwave sounded the
same as it did before the fan failed.
Good-sized new microwaves cost around $150-300,
so being able to repair this one for less than $20 was
well worthwhile. The spare microwave for just $10 was
a bonus.
The interior of the Breville microwave (left), fan motor
(above) and the repaired device (right).
86
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
WARNING: Microwave ovens contain very high voltages that are extremely dangerous. A microwave can retain
these high voltages even after it has been turned off and
unplugged, and even a dead microwave can kill you, as
this high voltage may not dissipate for a long time in some
circumstances. So if you are not experienced in repairing
microwave ovens, do not remove the cover.
Bruce Pierson, Dundathu, Qld.
Turntable inverter repair
This story has a lesson about buying semiconductors from
online vendors. I recently built the turntable inverter from
the May 2016 issue (siliconchip.au/Article/9930). Everything went well with the assembly, and I decided to benchtest it before fitting it into its diecast box. This meant that
the Mosfets were not yet heatsinked.
I connected a 12V car test lamp, drawing approximately
180mA at 12V, across the transformer terminals on the circuit board, with an oscilloscope probe connected as well. I
connected a linear power supply set at 14V DC. To my disappointment, the test lamp flickered randomly, and within
about 10 seconds, there was a burning smell.
I quickly switched it off and found that the IRF9540
Mosfets were stinking hot. Surprisingly, the IRF540 Mosfets were at about room temperature.
Troubleshooting was going to be difficult as I had to connect scope probes to the circuit, switch it on, quickly make
measurements, then switch off. I tried tracing waveforms
using this tedious procedure. It was getting ridiculous, so
I removed IC3 from its socket, then bent pins 1 and 7 horizontally so they would be disconnected when I plugged
IC3 back in.
I was now able to trace all the waveforms up to the inputs
of IC3. They were all correct 50Hz sinewaves (I had set the
inverter to 50Hz mode). The output pins of IC3 (1 and 7)
were putting out square waves, but they were not driving
the transistor section, so I desoldered all four Mosfets, bent
the pins of IC3 back to their original positions and powered it up again.
I could detect sinewaves at the bases of Q5, Q6, Q7 and
Q8. I powered it down and performed continuity checks
to verify that each component in the circuit was connected
correctly. I couldn’t find any faults; all components tested
OK and were in the correct places.
To make troubleshooting easier, I soldered header sockets
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
• A prematurely stopping dishwasher
• Dredging up a boat radio
• Breville microwave repair
• Finding the culprit in a turntable inverter
• Following the breadcrumb trail
• Repairing a NAD 701 stereo receiver
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like
to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so,
why not send those stories in to us? It doesn’t matter what
the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the
electronics or electrical industries, to computers or even to
cars and similar.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your
material must be original. Send your contribution by email to:
editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
in the Mosfet positions so I could easily swap them over. I
put in all new Mosfets and powered it up. The same fault
appeared; the Mosfets got hot again quickly.
I then tried bypassing IC3 by removing it from its socket
and using tinned copper wire. I bridged IC3b pins 5 to 7
and IC3a pins 3 to 1. This produced a square wave at the
transformer terminals, and the Mosfets ran cool.
I suspected that IC3 could be faulty and replaced it with
the one spare I had on hand, with no improvement. As the
pinout of IC3 is the same as an LM358, I tried that again
with no success.
I then noticed that the output waveform to the transformer terminals was a half sinewave, but it had oscillations superimposed on it at about 15kHz.
If I powered the circuit off and then on again, the circuit would start up without oscillations, and the Mosfets
would run cool with a clean sinewave at the transformer
terminals. As soon as I put a scope probe on the output or
anywhere in the circuit, the oscillations would start and
the Mosfets would again overheat.
Everything checked out up to IC3, the Mosfets had been
replaced and I could find no faults in the driver circuit, so
I purchased a couple of LMC6482AIN op amps from Jaycar (to replace IC3) and that was it. The inverter sprang to
life, and I could not get it to oscillate anymore.
I have purchased lots of components online over the
years and had good luck with only one dodgy purchase
(previous to this one) in that time.
I have noticed that there are a lot of YouTube videos
online regarding testing for dud op amps, Mosfets etc.
Online bargains could be duds, so you should put the
device through its paces and ensure that the test results
agree with the device datasheet specifications before installing it. This is time-consuming but can save you a lot of
work and time later.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 87
In spite of all the frustration, I did learn a lot about this
circuit, and it was very satisfying to be able to finally nail
the culprit.
Geoff Coppa, Toormina, NSW.
Russell Hobbs toaster repair
We have had a Russell Hobbs four-slice toaster for some
years. While a little bulky for the benchtop, its saving grace
is its capacity to toast all four slices evenly on both sides at
the same time. Previous toasters had achieved only various
patterns of brown and tan, sometimes black, so when the
Russell Hobbs ceased to function, it was a sad day indeed.
While one side of the toaster still functioned, the other,
much more frequently used side (the one closest to reach!)
refused to light up. It had started to work erratically a few
days leading up to the final failure. There is a history in
the house of repairing white goods and appliances instead
of replacing them, so the toaster duly made its way to the
workbench.
Taking the top cover off, the workbench and the technician was quickly covered in crumbs – quite an amazing
amount, really. The internals of the plastic chassis included
the toasting chamber with the heater elements and components of the two bread carriages, including springs and
bread racks.
In front of the chamber, a set of contacts for each of the
carriages is connected to the mains supply. These close
when the bread carriage lever is depressed. Beside the
contacts, a release solenoid, visible at the top of the photo
(shown below), holds the carriage down when energised
until the desired level of toastiness has been achieved, then
releases the carriage.
On each side of the chamber, a small circuit board
receives mains from the carriage contacts. It has various
components, including an DPST relay that energises the
carriage solenoid. This board also supplies 12V DC to, and
is controlled by, a timing circuit board mounted in the top
cover. The timing board has various functions, such as
defrost and warming, and energises the relay.
At the top centre of this photo, you can see just a bit of the
release solenoid, while below it is the 12V DC DPST relay.
88
Silicon Chip
Once all the breadcrumbs were cleaned up, the diagnosis of the fault was quick. On the side that wasn’t working, the DPST relay had lost a large portion of its plastic
cover due to contact arcing, judging by the look of the
relay contacts. As with most appliances these days, they
are not made to be repaired, and extracting the circuit
board without breaking all the plastic fastening tabs was
a mission in itself.
Once removed, further examination revealed that the
board had got rather hot underneath the bridge rectifier,
which was mounted flush on the board. The rectifier failed
testing and was replaced but elevated off the board. The
electrolytic cap also tested bad and was replaced. All other
components tested OK.
The DPST relay was not so easy to replace due to its size
and pin layout. A replacement was found from one of the
major component suppliers, but with a rather eye-watering
cost once postage was included. The parts cost less than a
new toaster, but not by much!
After testing the other circuit board, replacing the bridge
rectifier and capacitor, two replacement relays were ordered
– might as well replace both. Delivery was prompt, and the
new relays were installed. The opportunity to check the
mechanical operation of the toaster was also taken, cleaning
the carriage contacts, straightening some bent components
of the bread carriage, and general de-crumbing.
After reassembly and testing, both sides were found to
be working correctly. All up, the time to repair the toaster
was around two hours. Still, there is the satisfaction of
keeping an appliance in service and not going into the
hard waste collection.
Richard Dilena, Ocean Grove, Vic.
NAD 701 stereo receiver repair
The ad stated, “NAD 701 parts only untested with the
display not working”. For $50, it had to be worth a try. In
the worst case, replacement displays are available, and
swapping them can’t be that hard.
So I bought it, opened up the case and looked at the
display PCB. The display is backlit, and one of the incandescent lights had failed. The power to the lamp was 12V
DC, so I replaced the 4.7W current-limiting resistor with
a 560W value and inserted a high-intensity green LED in
place of the incandescents (see the photo opposite). That
got the display working.
The power amplifier voltages are regulated (along with
most supply rails in this amplifier) and they were all
within tolerance. I checked out the amplifier by playing
a CD, and the amplifier was working with no apparent
distortion. I also tested the phono preamp, which was
also functional.
Next, I tested the tuner. It is built around three ICs and
an FM tuner front-end from Mitsui. I could change the
AM & FM tuning frequency on the display, but there was
no change in the sound. It was like the oscillator was not
working. In this receiver, AM and FM are tuned with varactor diodes powered from an LM7000 IC through a Darlington transistor pair amplifier.
The LM7000 has an onboard oscillator with an external
7.2MHz crystal followed by a frequency divider of 145 times
for AM and 1007 times for FM. There is a second divider
programmed from the display output that is fed by the AM
or FM voltage-controlled oscillator (VCO).
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Shown above is the circuit diagram for the tuner and the replacement I made for the backlight, using a high-intensity
green LED and 560W series resistor. Below is the front panel of the NAD 701 stereo receiver and a close-up of the tuner
section of the board showing some of the adjustment points.
The frequency and phase difference between the two
divider outputs is compared and converted to a voltage
proportional to the phase and frequency difference. The
amplified voltage determines the VCO frequency; as the
comparator ramps the voltage up (or down), the AM (or
FM) oscillator frequency changes until they match.
Test point 1 (TP1) is the voltage applied to the VCO (AM
or FM) and it was stuck at 40V. Pin 17 of the IC (charge
pump output) was also fixed, so the transistors were likely
alright. An oscilloscope on pin 20 of the IC showed no
oscillator output. Adjusting the small variable capacitor
in the crystal circuitry made no difference, so I replaced
the LM7000.
Once the decision to remove an IC is made, avoiding
siliconchip.com.au
damage to the PCB is the highest priority. So I cut every leg
of the IC near the chip and desoldered them individually.
I then soldered a socket in place and inserted a replacement IC. Adjusting the trimmer capacitor brought the circuit into oscillation.
The AM tuner then worked well, but there was no
change in the FM behaviour. The supply to the FM frontend module is 12V through an inductor/capacitor RF filter.
There was 12V on the supply side of the 2.2μH inductor
but not the tuner side. Replacing it brought the FM tuner
to life as well.
The story could have ended very differently, but in this
case, it was $50 well spent.
SC
Jim Greig, Mount Helen, Vic.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 89
SILICON
CHIP
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/9
$10 MICROS
$15 MICROS
ATmega328P
ATtiny45-20PU
ATtiny85-20PU
PIC12F617-I/P
110dB RF Attenuator (Jul22), Basic RF Signal Generator (Jun23)
2m VHF CW/FM Test Generator (Oct23)
Graphing Thermometer (Mar26)
Active Mains Soft Starter (Feb23), Model Railway Uncoupler (Jul23)
Battery-Powered Model Railway Transmitter (Jan25)
PIC12F675-I/SN
Tiny LED Xmas Tree (Nov19)
PIC16F1455-I/P
Battery-Powered Model Railway TH Receiver (Jan25)
Dual Train Controller (Transmitter / TH Receiver, Oct25)
PIC16F1455-I/SL Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), USB-C Serial Adaptor (Jun24)
Battery-Powered Model Railway SMD Receiver (Jan25)
USB Programmable Frequency Divider (Feb25)
Dual Train Controller (SMD Receiver, Oct25)
PIC16LF1455-I/P New GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock (Sep22)
PIC16F1459-I/P
K-Type Thermostat (Nov23), Secure Remote Switch (RX, Dec23)
Mains Power-Up Sequencer (Feb24 | repurposed firmware Jul24)
8CH Learning IR Remote (Oct24), Heat Transfer Controller (Aug25)
Vacuum Controller (Oct25)
PIC16F15214-I/SN Silicon Chirp Cricket (Apr23), Mic The Mouse (Aug25)
PIC16F15214-I/P Filament Dryer (Oct24), Tool Safety Timer (May25)
PIC16F15224-I/SL Multi-Channel Volume Control (OLED Module; Dec23)
NFC IR Keyfob Transmitter (Feb25), Rotating Light (Apr25)
PIC16F18126-I/SL DCC Decoder (Dec25), RGB LED Star (Dec25)
PIC16F18146-I/SO Versatile Battery Checker (May25), RGB LED ‘Analog’ Clock (May25)
USB-C Power Monitor (Aug25), DCC Remote Controller (Feb26)
DCC Booster & Reverse Loop Controller (Mar26)
PIC16LF15323-I/SL Remote Mains Switch (TX, Jul22), Secure Remote Switch (TX, Dec23)
STM32G030K6T6 Variable Speed Drive Mk2 (Nov24)
PIC16F1847-I/P
PIC16F18877-I/PT
Digital Capacitance Meter (Jan25)
Dual-Channel Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor (Dec22)
Wideband Fuel Mixture Display (WFMD; Apr23)
PIC16F88-I/P
Battery Charge Controller (Jun22), Railway Semaphore (Apr22)
PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS
Ohmmeter (Aug22), Advanced SMD Test Tweezers (Feb23)
ESR Test Tweezers (Jun24)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sep19)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite LCD BackPack V1-V3 (Feb16 / May17 / Aug19)
Advanced GPS Computer (Jun21), Touchscreen Digital Preamp (Sep21)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB M&K Adaptor (Feb19)
STM32L031F6P6
SmartProbe (Jul25)
$20 MICROS
ATmega32U4
ATmega644PA-AU
PIC32MK0128MCA048
PIC32MX270F256D-50I/PT
Wii Nunchuk RGB Light Driver (Mar24)
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
Power LCR Meter (Mar25)
Digital Preamplifier (Oct25)
$25 MICROS
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SO + PIC16F1455-I/SL
Micromite Explore-40 (SC5157, Oct24)
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
$30 MICROS
PIC32MX695F512H-80I/PT Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
DCC BOOSTER / REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER KIT (SC7579)
Includes all required parts, except for the Jiffy box, OLED screen (see below),
power supply and front panel (see p58, Mar26)
- 0.91-inch OLED screen (SC7484)
DCC REMOTE CONTROLLER KIT (SC7552)
(FEB 26)
MAINS HUM NOTCH FILTER (SC7598)
(FEB 26)
DCC BASE STATION KIT (SC7539)
(JAN 26)
(DEC 25)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/
RP2350B DEVELOPMENT BOARD
(MAR 26)
$45.00
$7.50
(AUG 25)
Assembled Board: a pre-assembled PCB with all mandatory parts fitted,
optional components are sold separately below (SC7514; see p49, Aug25)
- 40-pin header (two are required, SC3189)
- 8MiB APS6404L-3SQR-SN PSRAM SOIC-8 IC (SC7530)
MIC THE MOUSE KIT (SC7508)
(AUG 25)
USB-C POWER MONITOR KIT (SC7489)
(AUG 25)
Includes everything but the plastic case, power supply and some optional parts.
The Pico 2 is supplied but not programmed (see p39, Jan26)
$90.00
433MHz RECEIVER KIT (SC7447)
(JUN 25)
RGB LED STAR KIT (SC7535)
VERSATILE BATTERY CHECKER KIT (SC7465)
(MAY 25)
RGB LED ‘ANALOG’ CLOCK KIT (SC7416)
(MAY 25)
USB POWER ADAPTOR COMPLETE KIT (SC7433)
(MAY 25)
PICO/2/COMPUTER (SC7468)
(APR 25)
433MHz TRANSMITTER KIT (SC7430)
(APR 25)
ROTATING LIGHT FOR MODELS KIT
(APR 25)
PICO 2 AUDIO ANALYSER SHORT-FORM KIT (SC6772)
(MAR 25)
Includes all required parts, except for the case and wire/cable (see p63, Feb26) $35.00
Includes everything except for the case and power supply (see p53, Feb26)
Includes the mostly-assembled board and all non-optional components
except the power supply (see p43, Dec25)
EARTH RADIO KIT (SC7582)
Includes everything to build the radio itself except the case and battery,
plus the plug for the antenna (see p65, Dec25)
$80.00
(DEC 25)
$55.00
DCC DECODER KIT (SC7524)
(DEC 25)
RP2350B COMPUTER
(NOV 25)
Includes everything in the parts list (see p73, Dec25)
Assembled Board: a fully-assembled PCB with all non-optional components,
front and rear panels are sold separately below (SC7531; see p28, Nov25)
- front & rear panels (SC7532)
- 8MiB APS6404L-3SQR-SN PSRAM SOIC-8 IC (SC7530)
DUAL TRAIN CONTROLLER MICROCONTROLLERS
(OCT 25)
- PIC16F1455-I/P programmed with 0911024D.HEX (Transmitter)
- PIC16F1455-I/P programmed with 0911024S(or T).HEX (Receiver, TH)
- PIC16F1455-I/SL programmed with 0911024S(or T).HEX (Receiver, SMD)
firmware ending with “S.HEX” is for train 1, while “T.HEX” is for train 2
PICKIT BASIC POWER BREAKOUT KIT (SC7512)
Includes all parts except the jumper wire and glue (see p39, Sep25)
$50.00
(SEP 25)
$25.00
$90.00
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$20.00
Includes all parts except a CR2032 cell (see p64, Aug25)
Includes all non-optional parts except the case, cell & glue (see p39, Aug25)
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts (see p66, Jun25)
Includes everything in the parts list (including the case), except the optional
components, batteries and glue (see p30, May25)
$30.00
$1.00ea
$5.00
$37.50
$60.00
$20.00
$65.00
Includes all the parts except the power supply. When buying the kit select either a BZ-121
GPS module or Pico W (unprogrammed) for the time source (see p66, May25)
$65.00
Includes everything in the parts list and a choice of one USB socket: USB-C power only;
USB-C power+data; Type-B mini; or Type-B micro (see p80, May25)
$10.00
Includes an assembled PCB, separate Raspberry Pi Pico 2 and front/rear panels $120.00
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts (see p75, Apr25)
$20.00
Complete kit which includes the PCB and all onboard components (see p60, Apr25):
- SMD LEDs (SC7462)
$20.00
- Through-hole LEDs (SC7463)
$20.00
The Pico Audio Analyser kit from Nov23, but with an unprogrammed Pico 2
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # Overseas? Place an order on our website for a quote.
$50.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
PI PICO-BASED THERMAL CAMERA
MODEL RAILWAY UNCOUPLER
MOSFET VIBRATOR REPLACEMENT
ARDUINO ESR METER (STANDALONE VERSION)
↳ COMBINED VERSION WITH LC METER
WATERING SYSTEM CONTROLLER
CALIBRATED MEASUREMENT MICROPHONE (SMD)
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
SALAD BOWL SPEAKER CROSSOVER
PIC PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
REVISED 30V 2A BENCH SUPPLY MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL PCB
↳ VOLTAGE INVERTER / DOUBLER
2M VHF CW/FM TEST GENERATOR
TQFP-32 PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
↳ TQFP-44
↳ TQFP-48
↳ TQFP-64
K-TYPE THERMOMETER / THERMOSTAT (SET; RED)
MODEM / ROUTER WATCHDOG (BLUE)
DISCRETE MICROAMP LED FLASHER
MAGNETIC LEVITATION DEMONSTRATION
MULTI-CHANNEL VOLUME CONTROL: VOLUME PCB
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ OLED PCB
SECURE REMOTE SWITCH RECEIVER
↳ TRANSMITTER (MODULE VERSION)
↳ TRANSMITTER (DISCRETE VERSION
COIN CELL EMULATOR (BLACK)
IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER, 28mm SQUARE SPADE
↳ 21mm SQUARE PIN
↳ 5mm PITCH SIL
↳ MINI SOT-23
↳ STANDALONE D2PAK SMD
↳ STANDALONE TO-220 (70μm COPPER)
RASPBERRY PI CLOCK RADIO MAIN PCB
↳ DISPLAY PCB
KEYBOARD ADAPTOR (VGA PICOMITE)
↳ PS2X2PICO VERSION
MICROPHONE PREAMPLIFIER
↳ EMBEDDED VERSION
RAILWAY POINTS CONTROLLER TRANSMITTER
↳ RECEIVER
LASER COMMUNICATOR TRANSMITTER
↳ RECEIVER
PICO DIGITAL VIDEO TERMINAL
↳ FRONT PANEL FOR ALTRONICS H0190 (BLACK)
↳ FRONT PANEL FOR ALTRONICS H0191 (BLACK)
ARDUINO FOR ARDUINIANS (PACK OF SIX PCBS)
↳ PROJECT 27 PCB
WII NUNCHUK RGB LIGHT DRIVER (BLACK)
SKILL TESTER 9000
PICO GAMER
ESP32-CAM BACKPACK
WIFI DDS FUNCTION GENERATOR
10MHz to 1MHz / 1Hz FREQUENCY DIVIDER (BLUE)
FAN SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
ESR TEST TWEEZERS (SET OF FOUR, WHITE)
DC SUPPLY PROTECTOR (ADJUSTABLE SMD)
↳ ADJUSTABLE THROUGH-HOLE
↳ FIXED THROUGH-HOLE
USB-C SERIAL ADAPTOR (BLACK)
AUTOMATIC LQ METER MAIN
AUTOMATIC LQ METER FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
180-230V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
STYLOCLONE (CASE VERSION)
↳ STANDALONE VERSION
DUAL MINI LED DICE (THROUGH-HOLE LEDs)
↳ SMD LEDs
GUITAR PICKGUARD (FENDER JAZZ BASS)
↳ J&D T-STYLE BASS
↳ MUSIC MAN STINGRAY BASS
↳ FENDER TELECASTER
DATE
JUL23
JUL23
JUL23
AUG23
AUG23
AUG23
AUG23
AUG23
SEP23
SEP23
SEP23
OCT22
SEP23
OCT23
OCT23
OCT23
OCT23
OCT23
NOV23
NOV23
NOV23
NOV23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
JAN24
JAN24
JAN24
JAN24
FEB24
FEB24
FEB24
FEB24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
MAR24
APR24
APR24
APR24
MAY24
MAY24
MAY24
JUN24
JUN24
JUN24
JUN24
JUN24
JUL24
JUL24
JUL24
AUG24
AUG24
AUG24
AUG24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
PCB CODE
04105231
09105231
18106231
04106181
04106182
15110231
01108231
01108232
01109231
24105231
04105223
04105222
04107222
06107231
24108231
24108232
24108233
24108234
04108231/2
10111231
SC6868
SC6866
01111221
01111222
01111223
10109231
10109232
10109233
18101231
18101241
18101242
18101243
18101244
18101245
18101246
19101241
19101242
07111231
07111232
01110231
01110232
09101241
09101242
16102241
16102242
07112231
07112232
07112233
SC6903
SC6904
16103241
08101241
08104241
07102241
04104241
04112231
10104241
SC6963
08106241
08106242
08106243
24106241
CSE240203A
CSE240204A
11104241
23106241
23106242
08103241
08103242
23109241
23109242
23109243
23109244
Price
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$7.50
$12.50
$2.50
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$3.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.00
$2.00
$2.00
$1.00
$3.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$20.00
$7.50
$20.00
$15.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$10.00
$12.50
$2.50
$2.50
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
COMPACT OLED CLOCK & TIMER
USB MIXED-SIGNAL LOGIC ANALYSER (PicoMSA)
DISCRETE IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER (TH)
↳ SMD VERSION
MICROMITE EXPLORE-40 (BLUE)
PICO BACKPACK AUDIO BREAKOUT (with conns.)
8-CHANNEL LEARNING IR REMOTE (BLUE)
3D PRINTER FILAMENT DRYER
DUAL-RAIL LOAD PROTECTOR
VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE Mk2 (BLACK)
FLEXIDICE (RED, PAIR OF PCBs)
SURF SOUND SIMULATOR (BLUE)
COMPACT HIFI HEADPHONE AMP (BLUE)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGER
PICO COMPUTER
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
↳ PWM AUDIO MODULE
DIGITAL CAPACITANCE METER
5MHZ 40A CURRENT PROBE (BLACK)
BATTERY MODEL RAILWAY TRANSMITTER
↳ THROUGH-HOLE (TH) RECEIVER
↳ SMD RECEIVER
↳ CHARGER
USB PROGRAMMABLE FREQUENCY DIVIDER
HIGH-BANDWIDTH DIFFERENTIAL PROBE
NFC IR KEYFOB TRANSMITTER
POWER LCR METER
WAVEFORM GENERATOR
PICO 2 AUDIO ANALYSER (BLACK)
PICO/2/COMPUTER
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
ROTATING LIGHT (BLACK)
433MHZ TRANSMITTER
VERSATILE BATTERY CHECKER
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK, 0.8mm)
TOOL SAFETY TIMER
RGB LED ANALOG CLOCK (BLACK)
USB POWER ADAPTOR (BLACK, 1mm)
HWS SOLAR DIVERTER PCB & INSULATING PANELS
SSB SHORTWAVE RECEIVER PCB SET
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
433MHz RECEIVER
SMARTPROBE
↳ SWD PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
DUCTED HEAT TRANSFER CONTROLLER
↳ TEMPERATURE SENSOR ADAPTOR
↳ CONTROL PANEL
MIC THE MOUSE (PCB SET, WHITE)
USB-C POWER MONITOR (PCB SET, INCLUDES FFC)
HOME AUTOMATION SATELLITE
PICKIT BASIC POWER BREAKOUT
DUAL TRAIN CONTROLLER TRANSMITTER
DIGITAL PREAMPLIFIER MAIN PCB (4 LAYERS)
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL
↳ POWER SUPPLY
VACUUM CONTROLLER MAIN PCB
↳ BLAST GATE ADAPTOR
POWER RAIL PROBE
RGB LED STAR
EARTH RADIO
DCC DECODER
DCC BASE STATION MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
REMOTE SPEAKER SWITCH
↳ CONTROL PANEL
DCC REMOTE CONTROLLER
MAINS HUM NOTCH FILTER
MAINS LED INDICATOR
DATE
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
NOV24
NOV24
NOV24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
FEB25
FEB25
FEB25
MAR25
MAR25
MAR25
APR25
APR25
APR25
APR25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
JUN25
JUN25
JUN25
JUN25
JUL25
JUL25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
SEP25
SEP25
OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
NOV25
DEC25
DEC25
DEC25
JAN26
JAN26
JAN26
JAN26
FEB26
FEB26
FEB26
PCB CODE
Price
19101231
$5.00
04109241
$7.50
18108241
$5.00
18108242
$2.50
07106241
$2.50
07101222
$2.50
15108241
$7.50
28110241
$7.50
18109241
$5.00
11111241
$15.00
08107241/2 $5.00
01111241
$10.00
01103241
$7.50
9047-01
$5.00
07112234
$5.00
07112235
$2.50
07112238
$2.50
04111241
$5.00
9049-01
$5.00
09110241
$2.50
09110242
$2.50
09110243
$2.50
09110244
$2.50
04108241
$5.00
9015-D
$5.00
15109231
$2.50
04103251
$10.00
04104251
$5.00
04107231
$5.00
07104251
$5.00
07104252/3 $10.00
09101251
$2.50
15103251
$2.50
11104251
$5.00
11104252
$7.50
10104251
$5.00
19101251
$15.00
18101251
$2.50
18110241
$20.00
CSE250202-3 $15.00
CSE250204 $7.50
15103252
$2.50
P9054-04
$5.00
P9045-A
$2.50
17101251
$10.00
17101252
$2.50
17101253
$2.50
SC7528
$7.50
SC7527
$7.50
15104251
$3.50
18106251
$2.00
09110245
$3.00
01107251
$30.00
01107252
$2.50
01107253
$7.50
10109251
$10.00
10109252
$2.50
P9058-1-C
$5.00
16112251
$12.50
06110251
$5.00
09111241
$2.50
09111243
$5.00
09111244
$5.00
01106251
$5.00
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We also sell the Silicon Chip PDFs on USB, RTV&H USB, Vintage Radio USB and more at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
Vintage Radio
RCA Radiola 17 (AR-927) radio
from 1927
The Radiola 17
is an interesting
seven-valve ACpowered tuned
radio frequency
(TRF) set from 1927.
By Jim Greig
T
he Radiola 17’s price on release
was US$157.50 with valves, equivalent to around US$2900 or $4450
today.
A TRF radio comprises one or more
tuned RF amplifier stages in series.
Each stage includes a bandpass filter
tuned to the same frequency, which
amplifies the desired signal while
attenuating others. After several
stages, the selected signal is significantly amplified, while out-of-band
signals are progressively filtered out.
The earliest such sets had individual
tuning capacitors for each stage, making tuning to a station an art. By 1927,
the use of a ganged tuning capacitor
meant that only a single tuning knob
was required.
Radios were operated almost exclusively from batteries until around
1925. Early battery sets used directly
heated valves, where the filament also
served as the cathode. Later designs
introduced indirectly heated valves
with separate filaments and cathodes,
solving several technical problems.
One minor problem was uneven
voltage distribution, both along the
length of the filament in a single valve,
and between the filaments of different
valves. A more serious problem arose
when sets began using mains power:
if the filament also acted as the cathode, powering it with AC introduced
92
Silicon Chip
significant hum. Various methods were
developed to minimise this, including:
1. Using DC for the filament supply.
This often meant using a battery in the
1920s, as high-current, low-
voltage
rectifiers were not yet available.
2. Centre-tapped hum-balancing
potentiometers. A pot across the filament with its centre tap grounded
made the ends of the filament equal
and opposite in phase, helping to cancel the hum.
3. Special filament coatings. These
may have reduced temperature variation along the filament over the AC
cycle.
4. Lower filament voltages. Any AC
ripple imposed on the signal would
be less than it would be with a higher
voltage.
5. Separating the cathode and filament. The filament then acted purely
as a heater, with the cathode isolated
electrically, eliminating the main
source of hum.
The first AC-powered set may have
been the Rogers Batteryless from Canada. Rogers designed and produced
their own AC valves (type 32) with a
separate cathode. Powering the radio
from AC saved the costs of batteries,
making radio accessible to many more
people.
In 1927, RCA introduced a new tube,
the UX-226 (also known as the type 226
Australia's electronics magazine
or type 26), a
triode that could be
used for any stage of a receiver except
the detector (unless the designer was
willing to accept inferior performance).
It had a low-voltage (1.5V) coated filament that was optimised to produce
very little hum when run on AC power.
The same year, RCA announced the
UY-227. The type 27 had the same
shape as the type 26, but its filament
was arranged to heat an oxide-plated
cathode connected to a fifth pin in the
base. Its filament was isolated from
the electron path, and the new tube
made an excellent detector (or audio
amplifier).
The RCA 17 was RCA’s first AC-
powered receiver, and it uses the following valve types: UX226 (first RF),
UX226 (second RF), UX226 (third
RF), UY227 (detector), UX226 (audio
preamp), UX171 (audio output) and
UX280 (mains rectifier).
Circuit details
Much of the following information
was derived from the RCA Service
Notes and Service Data.
The main part of the circuit, shown
in Fig.1, is deceptively simple. The
first RF stage is untuned, with the
antenna connected to the grid through
the volume control. Unlike in early
battery sets, where the volume was
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: at first glance, the RCA Radiola 17 circuit seems to be little more than seven valves connected in series with coupling transformers, some with tuning.
often controlled by varying filament
voltage, AC-powered sets required a
different method.
In this case, the volume control is
simple but effective: a potentiometer
in series with the antenna provides
adjustable attenuation of the incoming RF signal before it reaches the first
RF amplifier.
The second and third stages are
tuned RF triodes. The triode has significant anode-to-grid capacitance,
and this, multiplied by the gain (Miller
Effect), results in capacitances of tens
of picofarads. A triode RF amplifier
with high-Q tuned circuits at the grid
and anode is especially susceptible to
parasitic oscillation. Something must
be done to ensure stability.
This may be:
1. Neutralisation. Feed back an outof-phase signal from the anode circuit
through a carefully selected capacitor
to the grid. This was subject to a patent
by the Hazeltine Company.
2. Including a resistor, often in the
tuned circuits, to reduce the Q. However, Don Sutherland argues it is the
phasing of transformers and the layout
that have the most effect.
In this radio, the coils are all at
right-angles to reduce mutual coupling
and improve stability. There is also a
resistance (800W in the circuit, but my
resistors were actually 1kW) added in
series with the grids. There is a section
in the Service Notes on “Uncontrolled
Oscillation”, with a number of possible remedies, including dropping the
filament voltage (and therefore gain)
of the type 26 valves.
The third stage is coupled to the
grid-leak detector through a mica
capacitor of around 150pF. A gridleak resistor bleeds off any charge
that might accumulate on the grid
from rectification of the incoming RF
signal, preventing charge build-up
and allowing the grid to operate at a
slightly negative voltage.
In a grid leak detector, the grid/
cathode of the tube acts as a rectifier,
albeit an inefficient one. While the grid
voltage to plate current transfer relationship may not be perfectly linear,
non-linearity is not required for detection, unlike in an anode bend detector.
The RF is filtered off at the plate, and
only the average voltage remains; the
audio interstage transformer does this
from its limited bandwidth and any
residual RF is filtered out by the capacitor in parallel with the transformer
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 93
Fig.2: the power supply circuit is similarly quite simple. The connector strip on the left corresponds to the one on the right in Fig.1. That’s how they are
physically connected in the radio.
94
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
output. If no audio interstage transformer is used, the RF can be removed
by a capacitor in combination with
the valve’s anode resistor and its plate
resistance.
The rectified signal is fed via an
audio transformer to the first AF stage.
Its output is transformer-coupled to the
output stage, which has a 1:1 transformer to the speaker.
AF transformers were used in early
radio for coupling as the valves had
little gain, and the (typically) 1:3 voltage ratio offered by a transformer was
basically free (sometimes capacitive
coupling was used too). The amplification factor of the type 26 is around
eight times; the two audio transformers
add another nine times, or as much as
an additional 26 valve.
Today, the amplification factor of
a 12AX7 (for example) is around 100
times, and the losses from RC-coupling
a 12AX7 are easily covered. The transformers are just two windings with
no interleaving and minimal iron,
resulting in high leakage inductance
and limited bandwidth, limiting this
radio’s audio frequency range.
The expected loudspeaker response
at the time was also limited, so this
was not a concern.
Audio transformer properties
Audio interstage transformers in
vintage radios are special parts; they
cannot be analysed with the usual
equations for a transformer because no
power is transferred. The grid of the
following stage (operating in Class-A)
draws no significant current. The analysis that applies to them is that of a
damped, coupled resonant circuit.
The damping is provided by the
anode resistance of the valve driving the transformer. The resonant
frequency is defined mainly by the
self-capacitance of the secondary
winding, with contributions from the
primary. The mutual inductance (and
therefore leakage inductance) is very
important in the balance of factors
that result in a flat frequency response.
When the manufacturer gets the
balance of factors just right, the transformer behaves as an astonishingly
effective bandpass filter in the audio
spectrum, with a flat response. They
should always be preserved where
possible. Their band-pass response
typically extends from as low as
100Hz, up to around 7-10kHz.
They provide improved dynamic
siliconchip.com.au
range compared to anode resistor loads
as they hold the anode voltage closer
to the B+ voltage. They can provide
passive voltage amplification up to
around three times, or at high as five
times; the higher the gain, the more
difficult it is to attain a flat response.
A block of five wax/paper capacitors is included to bypass the type 226
filaments (both sides) to the chassis,
bypass the 135V line to the chassis,
and bypass the ‘ground’ to the 135V
and -9V rails.
There are some unexpected connections in both this and the main filter
block in the power supply. I expect the
engineers were minimising the component count and making the best use
of the space available.
The three RF and first audio stage
valves (type 26) have a grid bias of
-9V. While it is easy today to generate
any DC voltage, in 1927, ingenuity
was required to keep the design simple. Cost and the availability of skilled
repair people required that these early
mass market sets were straightforward.
Power Supply
The AC is rectified with the UX280
valve, new for 1927. It was followed by
a choke input filter, with the inductors
in the 0V path, probably to minimise
flash-over to the frame and electrolysis of the wires. A resistive divider and
wax paper filter capacitors provide the
four supply voltages and the ‘cathode
bypass’ for the output.
The connections to the series dropping resistors in the power supply
were arranged so that the chassis is at
-9V with respect to the filaments of the
type 26 valves. Their grids connect to
the chassis through transformer primary windings and the volume control
to provide the required -9V grid bias.
The detector has zero bias, and
the output valve is self-biased with a
1690W cathode-bias resistor from the
tap on the balancing pot across the
UX171 filaments to the -9V rail.
The power supply, shown in Fig.2,
generates DC voltages of -9V, 45V, 135V
and around 170V for the output stage,
as well as 1.5V AC, 2.5V AC and 5V
AC for the filaments. These DC voltages are measured from the ‘ground’
tap on the resistor chain, not the chassis, which is at -9V.
Restoration
At around 17kg, the radio is heavy. It
was in good condition when I received
it, with no major rust visible, and the
cabinet had no major damage. The circuitry is in two parts: a power supply,
with the radio linked to it via a multicore cable and secured with metal
screws through the cabinet.
I was able to remove these sections
easily, separating them by undoing
the screws connecting the cable to a
tag strip on the radio.
I have worked on many transistor
and valve radios, but this was the dirtiest job so far. 100 years of dust and
fine dirt on the surface with wax and
pitch to be encountered later.
I first checked the mains transformer. If it was damaged, I felt it
would be best to preserve the radio
as-is. I replaced the mains cabling with
a three-core cotton-covered cable, with
a small fuse added in the Active line,
and the Earth connected to the chassis.
I applied 50V AC from a variac to the
mains input and left it for several hours.
The 220V/240V switch was set to 240.
I measured 62V a side for the HT, 1-2V
for the filaments and the transformer
The original waxed-paper capacitors
were all packed into a small metal
box. Not surprisingly, 100 years later,
they have become leaky.
did not heat up. It was left to run for
a while on 120V AC, then 240V AC.
I estimated the HT current requirement as being 15mA for the output
valve and 5mA for the others, giving
40mA in total. To emulate this, I connected an 18kW across the HT windings. With 230V AC at the input, the
outputs were 586V AC across the
whole HT winding (~293-0-293V AC
centre-tapped), 1.49V AC, 2.21V AC,
and 5.05V AC, and the transformer
stayed cool.
So, the mains transformer was functional, and the restoration could continue.
The two chokes (reactors) were next.
One measured around 11H, the other
0.6W, a likely short circuit as the insulation on the wires to it was crumbling.
They were encapsulated in pitch. Two
removal procedures are suggested:
warming with a heat gun, or dissolving with paint thinners.
I used paint thinner; the heat gun
approach would probably have been
less messy. With both inductors out,
The rear of the Radiola 17 with the back taken off. The power supply circuitry is contained in the enclosure on
the far left of the interior and its circuit is shown in Fig.2 opposite.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 95
Table 1: replacement resistors
Original
resistance
Nominal New resistor
voltage
410W
135V
390W 5W
3750W
45V
3.9kW 5W
2140W
45V
2.2kW 5W
205W
-9V
200W 5W
1690W
30V
3.3kW 1W ||
3.3kW 1W
they looked alright, so I checked them
with a bridge. The second one measured 18H; my simple RLC transistor
checker gives up at 15H, so it read as
a resistor.
The wires were in poor condition
and heavily oxidised. I cut them near
the choke and cleaned them with
many passes over the ends with folded
emery paper. I then applied flux paste
and soldered new wiring to both, then
insulated the joints with heatshrink
tubing.
More of the original wiring was in
poor condition, so I replaced it with
segments from a length of HRSA seven-
conductor battery cable. The cabling
was laced to keep it tidy and preserve
some of the original appearance.
All filter capacitors showed significant leakage, so I replaced them. They
are housed in a large metal case and
held in with extra wax. It’s a beautiful
design that filters six different voltages
within a limited space. Unfortunately,
heating the wax did not release them,
so I had to cut a few out so the remainder could be extracted.
I replaced them with multiple 1μF
200V Mylar capacitors. As there is
plenty of room, I doubled the value of
each capacitor to provide additional
filtering.
The multi-tap wire-wound resistor
The volume control had degraded over
time and needed a delicate repair.
showed signs of overheating; most segments were open, and the rest intermittent. Ideally, new wire would be
wound on the ceramic former and
tapped, but I am not that skilled.
Using the voltages and other data
from the service notes, I calculated
the power for each segment. Assuming the original values would be accurate to within 10% at best, I selected a
combination of standard resistors, as
shown in Table 1.
The remaining working segments on
the original resistor were permanently
broken and new resistors placed under
the tags and connected to them. If a
future owner wishes to restore the original resistor, it is still there.
Seized tuning capacitor
The tuning capacitor would not
move. I oiled the shaft near the tuning wheel and left it for days. Eventually, it could be moved slightly, but it
was still very stiff. The tuning wheel
is made of pot metal (a brittle zincbased alloy), which was cracking, so
I had to treat it carefully.
The only way to free the movement was to remove the wheel. This
required knocking out the pin on the
shaft and, given the state of the wheel,
it may have disintegrated. I took measurements and photos so a new wheel
could be created if needed. Once the
pin was out, the tuning wheel slid off,
and the shaft rotated easily.
The pot metal had expanded and
was binding to the screw locating the
shaft. I filed the binding end to allow
the shaft to move sideways, to centre
the variable plates within the fixed
portion.
The wheel had to be stabilised, or
it would break in future. A local company suggested using epoxy glue, so
I purchased some E-143 metal epoxy
from Technicqll in Poland. I washed
the wheel to remove grease and oil,
then forced the glue into the cracks,
small sections at a time. I blocked the
shaft and tension screw holes with
Blu-Tack so I wouldn’t accidentally
get glue in them.
Once the wheel was repaired, I
refitted it with thin stainless washers
added to ease its movement where
the shaft was binding. I connected the
dial wire to the tuning shaft, stretched
it over the grooves in the wheel and
tightened it with the screw and clamp.
The radio had resistor/capacitor
coupling added between the first audio
valve and the output type 171, suggesting the coupling transformer was
broken. Resistance checks showed the
primary was open circuit. The transformers are located in a metal shell
clipped to the chassis, so I unsoldered
the wires from both transformers and
unclipped the transformer case.
It was filled with wax – better than
pitch, I suppose; I used a heat gun to
melt it. Both transformers are roughly
made, with no clamping of the laminations; they are ‘glued’ together
with wax. A suitable transformer
(very small, with a 3:1 turns ratio)
was donated by an HRSA collector.
I connected the wires from the failed
The tuning
capacitor wheel
had seized. Care
was required in
dismantling and
fixing it as it was
made of pot metal
that had become
brittle.
The series
wirewound
resistors (encased
in black, at top)
were bad so I
bypassed them
with a string of
modern resistors.
96
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
transformer to it and refitted both in
the case.
Ideally, they would be installed
at right-angles to each other, but the
new unit was slightly larger, so I had
to make them parallel.
The antenna volume control was
another casualty of time; the resistive
element was corroded in places, and
the resistance wire had broken. Advice
from another HRSA member was to
bridge the broken sections by finding the ends, gently scraping off the
insulation with fine emery paper and
twisting them together. The resistive
wire does not solder, so the twisted
section was covered in conductive
silver paint.
There will be tiny (1-2 wire) sections
of the control that are missing, but for
its use as a volume control, it will not
matter. This repair worked perfectly.
The grid stopper resistors are wire
wound and tested alright. The grid
leak resistor is supposed to be 4MW but
measured as 3MW. I replaced it with a
3.9MW ½W resistor hidden under the
original red 4MW resistor.
The bypass capacitors are held in
metal cases clipped to the chassis. I
tagged and desoldered the connecting wires, then removed the assembly.
I then heated the cases and removed
the capacitors. The cases were washed
with vegetable oil (to dissolve the wax)
and detergent, glued together and the
capacitors replaced with 1μF and
2.2μF 250V polyester types.
I emission tested the valves and
replaced any that failed. With everything tested, I figured the radio should
work. The output transformer is a 1:1
type and the recommended anode load
for the UX171 (type 71) is 4.8kW at
180V. For initial testing, I used a 5kW
to 3.5W transformer and 4W speaker.
Fig.3: the frequency response of the set, either injecting a signal directly
into the detector output transformer (cyan) or directly to the antenna (red).
Expectations were lower in those days!
Having attached the multi-core
cable from the power supply to the
radio, I powered it slowly through a
variac with the UX280 out of circuit.
All valve heaters were operational.
Plugging in the rectifier gave the voltages shown in Table 2. All were a bit
high, so I needed to swap in a ‘worse’
type 80.
For further testing, I employed the
HRSA mini transmitter and a 1m wire
antenna. The signal was tuned in easily, and the volume control had to be
wound down to minimise distortion.
With no signal, there was some 100Hz
buzz from the medium-fidelity test
speaker. Examining the output with
an oscilloscope, there are noise spikes
of around 1V peak-to-peak at 100Hz.
Tracing back through the circuit,
they were present on the detector anode but not on the grid. The
+45V rail (and other voltages) had
some ripple, but no noise. I suspect
it is coupling between the two audio
transformers causing the problem.
50Hz hum was also visible, the minimum residual after adjusting the three
filament potentiometers.
I tested the receiver audio bandwidth but there is no specification for
this in the original documents. Removing the type 27 detector, I connected a
signal generator to the detector audio
coupling transformer through 10kW to
simulate the anode resistance.
Audio bandwidth is often specified
between -3dB points on the amplifier
response curve, but today’s amplifiers
have broad flat responses, and I feel
applying -3dB to this radio is not fair.
-10dB, or half the perceived loudness,
would be easily detectable but not prevent the signal from being heard. Here,
the -10dB bandwidth is around 4507500Hz (see the cyan curve in Fig.3).
The frequency response from the
antenna to the output is a similar
shape, with a more useful -10dB bandwidth of 200-4500Hz (the red curve in
The transformer between the audio preamp and
audio output stages had gone open-circuit.
Table 2: voltages on initial power-up
The tuning
capacitor wheel after
filling the cracks with glue.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Rail
Reading
Raw HT
175V
135V
151.3V
45V
52.8V
9V
9.1V
UX171 filament (5V)
5.1V
UX226 filament (1.5V)
1.5V
UY227 filament (2.5V)
2.2V
Bias on UX171 filament
(-30V)
-26.8V
March 2026 97
A better look at the chassis of the Radiola 17.
Fig.3). The RF bandwidth of the TRF
is generally much wider than a superheterodyne set, but in this set, it tapers
off from about 1kHz.
A possible cause is that there are no
trimmer capacitors on the tuning gang,
and it is quite likely the three sections
are not aligned, leading to unpredictable bandwidth of the tuned signal.
The lack of trimmer capacitors made
factory alignment critical and limited
user retuning.
The audio from a music CD played
over the mini transmitter was quite
intelligible on the bench test speaker
and not (to my tin ears) greatly distorted.
Cabinet restoration
The timber cabinet for this radio
is in very good condition for its age.
There are scratches and a probable
burn mark on the top, but the other surfaces are reasonably clear. It is missing
the hood over the dial light, a common
problem with these radios.
I considered refinishing the cabinet,
but it is 100 years old and you can’t
expect it to be in mint condition. So I
simply cleaned the timber and rubbed
it down many times inside and out
with a mixture of 50/50 white spirits and linseed oil. The appearance
remains consistent with its age.
Over time, the brass escutcheons
have oxidised and discoloured. I
washed them but didn’t polish them,
so that they and the cabinet look right
with each other.
RCA Speaker Model 100A
The RCA 100A speaker was sold
with this radio, and this one was
bought at an HRSA auction. The case
is made of pot metal and it is breaking
up in parts; small sections have flaked
off. I will clean it up and repaint it in
the future.
The speaker is a high-impedance
device, as were the horn speakers and
headphones of the time. When connected to a (late model) radio through
◀ Fig.4: the unusual
construction of the
RCA Model 100A
loudspeaker.
98
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
a step-up transformer, it works with no
grating or scratching noises.
It is a moving armature design
(sometimes called ‘balanced armature’). Fig.4, from the RCA Model 100A
Service Notes, shows the mechanism.
Not shown is the armature sitting close
to the pole pieces of a horseshoe magnet. Changes in the magnetism of the
armature from the coils will cause it
to move to one or other pole piece at
one end and move the drive pin at
the other.
The motor is small, at 40 × 25 ×
40mm, and sits within the magnet.
There is a low-pass π filter between
the input and the drive coils; possibly the speaker mechanism rattles if
driven with high-frequency signals,
so they are filtered out. At the low-
frequency end, the cone is very stiff,
which would limit the low-frequency
response.
I checked the speaker frequency
response with the PC-based AUDio
MEasurement System (AUDMES).
The RCA 100A
loudspeaker is
housed in this
early Art déco
style pot
metal and
fabric case.
siliconchip.com.au
Table 3: model 100A speaker
Frequency
Input impedance
100Hz
4.36kW
525Hz
11.82kW
2730Hz
2.0kW
4700Hz
8.7kW
A good-quality line transformer was
connected between the PC to the
speaker for impedance matching and
to increase the drive voltage. The
-10dB response is around 200-3500Hz
– see Fig.5.
The speaker resistance is reflected
back to the output valve, so I thought it
would be interesting to see how close
it was to the desired 4.8kW load specified for the type 71 valve.
I estimated the speaker resistance
by connecting it to a signal generator through a variable resistance.
When the voltage across the speaker
equalled the drop across the resistor, the resistances would be equal,
and the variable resistor could be
measured. With the π filter and the
speaker coils, a complex impedance
was likely.
I took measurements from 100Hz
to 8kHz and recorded the highs and
lows in Table 3. The input impedance
drops below the desired 4.8kW over
the range of 2-3kHz, but generally it
is well above it.
Listening to a CD received from the
mini transmitter via the radio and RCA
speaker, it is not HiFi, but the music
was clear. I expect at the time it was
released, people would have been very
impressed.
Fig.5: the frequency response of the RCA Model 100A loudspeaker.
Screen 1: the repaired radio set picked up some mains hum and buzz. Partly
this could be due to its unshielded TRF construction, but my replacement
audio coupling transformer having to be reoriented might have also negatively
impacted its EMI rejection.
References
• Deeth Williams Wall: siliconchip.
au/link/ac7v
• RCA Victor Service Notes: 1923
to 1928
• RCA Service Data: 1923-1932
Vol. A
• RCA Loudspeaker Model 100A
Service Notes, June 1927
• Don Sutherland NZVRS Bulletin,
Vol 5 Number 2, August 1984
• RCA Radiola 17, Eric L. Santanen,
Bucknell University
• https://sourceforge.net/projects/
SC
audmes/
siliconchip.com.au
A close-up of the loudspeaker moving armature motor.
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 99
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Synchronising two RGB
LED Stars
The RGB LED Star in the December
2025 issue was impressive, especially
the programming (siliconchip.au/
Article/19372). It exceeded my expectations frankly, and they were not low.
I bought a second kit and have two
out the front of my flat, which look
really good. They start off with similar
displays, but after a few hours, timing
differences make them produce very
different displays in the sequence.
How would you make two stars (or
more) display identically?
I have no knowledge of WS2812 programming or protocols, and saw two
ways of possibly achieving this. One
way was to have a ‘master’ Star driving second (and possibly subsequent)
units. The master would have the PIC
fitted, but the slave units would not.
Instead, pin 11 on all the stars would
be connected together, effectively all
in parallel.
Alternatively, could the final 6.8kW
loading resistor be omitted from all but
the last Star, and they be daisy-chained
from LED80 pin 2 to pin 4 of LED1 on
the next (and subsequent) Stars, effectively putting them in series? What
is the limit to how many LEDs may
be driven by the PIC? There surely is
one? Is the number of LEDs defined/
controlled within the software?
Or might there be a third way involving the retention of all the PICs and
syncing them some other way? Any
help you could give would be appreciated, as next year I would like to
expand this display. Seeing a large
group of these performing identically
could look fantastic. (B. C., Gympie,
Qld)
● You’re right; even a tiny timing
difference will cascade and result in
them producing different patterns after
a while because the pseudo-random
number generators will not remain
synchronised.
You can’t daisy-chain them without
modifying the software because of the
way the serial data works. Essentially,
100
Silicon Chip
each LED ‘knows’ its position in the
chain, so any beyond #80 will ignore
the data. You could make the software
duplicate the 80 LEDs of data before
sending the reset pulse, and then it
would work with daisy-chaining,
although that would slow down the
update rate since twice as much data
needs to be sent each time.
Connecting them in parallel should
work, as long as the grounds are joined
(otherwise, keep the power supplies
separate). It’d be best to power them
up simultaneously.
You could synchronise the PICs, but
it’d require changes to the code. You
could do it using serial data on a single
pin. At the end of each cycle, unit #1
would send its RNG seed and the number of ticks that have elapsed to unit
#2 over that serial connection. Unit
#2 would wait to get the seed before
updating the LEDs using the same tick
count. That way, they should remain
synchronised.
We think it’d be easier to simply fit
one PIC and have it drive both sets
of LEDs. We don’t know how many
strings one PIC could drive in parallel, but it would surely handle at
least a few.
GPS Speedometer
questions
I have questions related to the “Miniaturised GPS Speedometer” item in
Circuit Notebook, November 2025
(siliconchip.au/Article/19229).
1. In that small confinement of the
Australia's electronics magazine
47mm diameter pipe, where is the GPS
module located?
2. How is the GPS module exposed
to the GPS satellites, which is essential for the speed measurements? (S.
Bera, Kolkata, India)
● The designer, Glenn Percy,
responds: Since the “case” for the
project is plastic pipe, I have noticed
no problems with GPS reception. The
module I used is a V.KEL model, but
most of them with inbuilt antennas
seem to be a similar size. The GPS
module sits at the rear so that the
antenna faces upwards.
There’s not a lot of space there, so
being confined, it tends to stay that
way (see the photo below). You could
use some fastening like double-sided
tape or a tie wrap, perhaps, if worried
about it moving.
Implementing filters
with Digital Preamp
I am thinking of building Phil Prosser’s Digital Preamp (October to December 2025; siliconchip.au/Series/449)
to use it as a preamp/three-way crossover and follow the recommendations
from the Linkwitz articles in Wireless
World and Speaker Builder from the
1970s, as well as Douglas Self’s book
on active filters. The ability to do some
truly amazing things with shelving
filters and equalisation is, for me, a
standout.
I’ve been looking at Analog Device’s
SigmaStudio with a view to using it
with your preamp. The documentation
siliconchip.com.au
is terrible, and even a simple configuration gets into interesting territory.
Even getting the darned thing takes
a bit of not so interesting navigation
around the Analog Devices website.
They don’t even explain well how to
interface it with the chip.
Working out how to implement
Linkwitz-Riley 24dB filters took a
while. Figuring out how to do transitional LR/Bessel/Thomson filters may
be just as interesting. Do you have any
advice on how to do this?
By the way, Douglas Self advises
that the NE5532 and NE5534 are on
the way to obsolescence in favour of
devices with lower distortion. (K. J.,
Cleveland, Qld)
● Phil Prosser responds: The code
already has the calculations for shelving filter coefficients in it. All that is
needed is to add the filter type and
user interface to set frequencies and
shelf offsets. In the scheme of things,
that isn’t too hard. There are some
really useful and simple documents
that assist with calculating the IIR
coefficients.
Douglas Self has written a lot of
really great material. His general audio
texts are the best I have read. His great
strength is a relentless analysis of
things he gets into, but this also leads
some of his stuff to get quite obsessive.
At times, he sets aside ‘what is good’
and the question of ‘does it make a difference’ for a pursuit of a goal such as
the lowest distortion. On the surface,
a laudable goal, but in the real world,
what is the difference between 0.001%
and 0.0001% distortion? Although it
would take a supreme effort to get an
NE5532 to generate that much distortion.
Given a choice of course, you would
choose 0.0001%, but it is important to
keep in mind this is borderline philosophical. There are sometimes consequences too. Then you connect a
loudspeaker, which renders the above
meaningless by three or four orders of
magnitude.
Where to get DSP board
for Digital Preamp
I note on page 32 of the October 2025
issue, in the article on the Digital Preamplifier (siliconchip.au/Series/449),
the enclosed box headed “Soldering
the LFCSP-88 ADAU1467 chip” mentions ordering a carrier board with the
chip already mounted.
siliconchip.com.au
Ethernet-based Watering System Controller wanted
A question about the Watering System Controller project by Geoff Graham from
August 2023 (siliconchip.au/Article/15899): could this be made to work in a nonWiFi environment using an Ethernet connection? There are various ways suggested
online for adding Ethernet to a Raspberry Pi Pico.
I was wondering what Geoff Graham thought about the practicality of doing this.
I guess there could be problems with electrical isolation from the rest of the LAN
in case of thunderstorms, lightning etc. (P. H., Warwick, Qld)
● Geoff Graham responds: an Ethernet connection for the Watering System
Controller is not possible due to several factors, the main one being that the
software environment (WebMite/MMBasic) does not support Ethernet; only WiFi.
Other difficulties are that running an Ethernet cable to the controller would be
difficult for most installations, and most home systems have WiFi, so the audience
for an Ethernet-only solution would be small.
I’m guessing that your installation point for the Watering System Controller
would be a long way from your main network (hence your asking about Ethernet
cabling). You could still run the cable, but terminate it with a WiFi/Ethernet bridge
that can communicate with the Controller design as published.
I can’t find the carrier board in your
Online Shop. Are there still plans to
sell the carrier board?
Thanks for a wonderful magazine.
(G. M., Blue Mountain Heights, Qld)
● The ADAU1467 carrier board is
a commercial product that’s available
from AliExpress: www.aliexpress.
com/item/1005001448154711.html
Increasing DCC Power
Shield current
A couple of years ago, I built the
Arduino DCC Power Shield from
your January 2020 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/12220). I’m using the DCC
booster with the optical connection as
a standalone unit; the Arduino supervisor sketch provides current/DCC signal lost trip protection.
It works perfectly, but I would like
to reprogram the default trip limit of
120 to a higher setting and I would
like to know what this value equates
to in terms of real current level seen
by the booster.
I calculated the 120 trip limit to be
equal to 0.5865V at the Arduino analog
sense pin, A0. I read the BTN8962TA
datasheet, and it is not clear or easy to
calculate the current out of the output
sense voltage of the H-bridge. There is
an extra 20kW resistor on the power
shield board that is not shown in the
datasheet.
Do you know mV/A value at the
sense pin or a way to calculate that
value for the Arduino shield? (D. G.,
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada)
● The provided value worked well
with our prototype, but unfortunately,
the BTN8962’s sense current output
Australia's electronics magazine
can vary over a wide range, so we’ve
had to perform some tests.
There is a variable offset (ie, a nonzero sense current when the load current is zero and the drivers are on) and
the ratio of the currents can also vary.
Also, it appears that the offset varies
with supply voltage.
The 20kW resistor and 100nF capacitor simply filter the signal; it is only
the 1kW resistor that is critical to the
current/voltage conversion.
The offset current of 50-440μA
mentioned in the BTN8962 datasheet
maps to 50-440mV across the 1kW
resistor. There are two devices (sourcing current via the diodes), so this is
doubled. In other words, a zero load
current could create a voltage from
0.10V to 0.88V (ADC reading of 20 to
180). All the BTN8962s we’ve tested
were between 0.40V and 0.55V (about
80-112 on the ADC).
The range of ratios means that a 10A
change in load current will result in a
change of 0.72V to 1.28V in the output
(meaning a 1A load step increases the
output by 7-12 ADC steps). A value
of 10 ADC steps per amp seems common here.
The easy way to check the offset
is to measure the ISENSE ADC value
when the output is on but there is no
load. That is your base level. You can
add something like “Serial.println(p);
to loop() after p=analogRead(ISENSEPIN);” in the Supervisor sketch to
allow this to be monitored.
For every 1A you want at the output, add 10 ADC steps to your baseline
reading. You could also apply a known
load (eg, a power resistor) and see what
the difference in the reading is.
March 2026 101
Since you have it working with
the value of 120, you could also try
increasing this by 10 steps to get an
extra amp of trip current. For example,
if it is tripping at 2A and you want it
to trip at 4A, increase the value to 140.
You could also use some load resistors of known values to verify that it
is behaving as expected.
Why are Majestic
speakers two-way?
I built your two-way Majestic speakers (April 2014 issue; siliconchip.au/
Article/7897) in 2015. Now I plan to
convert it to become three-way by
adding separately additional midrange box speakers above the existing
speaker boxes. I want to use an active
crossover because I heard the sound
from it much better than conventional
RC crossover. What is the power distribution between the three speakers?
I plan to use a 10W small amplifier
for its woofer (3W is already loud),
5W for the midrange and 5W for the
tweeter. Each of the amplifiers has volume control. What do you reckon? (J.
N., St Albans, Vic)
● The designer, Allan Linton-Smith,
responds: well done for you to build up
a Majestic pair of speakers to enjoy the
excellent response! I’m not sure why
you would want to re-engineer them
to a three-way design – is there something wrong with their sound quality?
The two-way design we settled on
took a lot of engineering effort to get
the crossover balance correct between
the woofer and tweeter, even with
high-end B&K microphones plus Agilent and Audio Precision instruments.
The result is a system that is economical, has great sound quality and
uses a cost-effective (and low phase
shift) crossover, in a nice-looking cabinet at a fraction of the price of similar
high-end speakers. Importantly, the
drivers were selected so that a third
was not needed, allowing a passive
crossover to be used, with a low phase
shift and natural crossover effect to
keep the sound clean.
Power distribution is needed for a
three-way system because each and
every driver has a different sensitivity, and they can vary a lot.
You might like to check out my article on a “High Performance Dipole
Speaker” in the November 2017 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/10865), which
is a three-way setup with an electronic
102
Silicon Chip
crossover. It needs 30dB more to feed
the woofer than goes to the tweeter.
Sure, this is a different setup, but you
are going to need something better than
a 3W bass amplifier to get a smooth
response.
Your 3W amplifier may also be a
problem because it will probably clip
at its full power output and the sound
will be distorted (and sound louder),
so I recommend that you experiment
with a better-quality, more powerful
amplifier. Why drive a high-quality
speaker with a tiny amplifier? Would
you run a Ferrari with a lawnmower
engine?
Once you get clipping, square waves
will be going into the drivers and can
be very damaging; especially to tweeters, but to a lesser extent also to midrange drivers and woofers. I have had
tweeters go open-circuit with only a
few hundred milliwatts of poor quality sound input!
You mentioned active crossovers;
generally, they are very good, but
need careful management so as not to
push too much low frequency-sound
into a tweeter, which will most likely
destroy it.
Without a frequency response measurement system, you will find that
you may never be happy with the
sound from a three-way setup even if
you fiddle around with the crossover
control for hours. So you will need
to test your setup with an audio frequency generator and adjust things
from there.
Cheap solar charger is
badly designed
I built a few of the solar controllers (“Battery charger regulator”)
from Circuit Notebook, January 2004
(siliconchip.au/Article/3334). These
worked well on my boat until the salt
air caused some corrosion and one of
them failed. I am trying to fix it now.
In the meantime, I bought a very cheap
($16) solar controller through Amazon.
There was probably a fault in
the unit delivered – it did not stop
charging after reaching the set voltage limit (14.2V) and went on until I
had to shut it off at 16V! I contacted
the vendor, “Atcdlmu”, and they said
the unit must be faulty and quickly
sent me a replacement controller, but
it exhibited the same behaviour!
They suggested that testing the unit
with a constant voltage power supply
Australia's electronics magazine
might not work and suggested a constant current power supply (which I
have), but I doubt that information is
correct.
I have a 100W solar panel at home,
so I hooked that up, but it made no
difference; it still keeps charging after
the cutoff is reached, and I had to shut
it down at 16V.
There is a saying, “pay peanuts –
get monkeys”, which seems to be the
case here. Do you think the vendor’s
comments regarding constant current
vs constant voltage may be correct? (J.
K., Freshwater, NSW)
● The fact that you used it with
a solar panel and it didn’t shut off
shows that the unit is definitely faulty.
We suspect that all these units have
a design fault. The voltage shut-off
should occur regardless of whether it is
a constant-voltage or constant-current
supply. We have a similar charger from
Jaycar, and it works as expected, shutting off charge at the 14.2V limit.
AI answer on
crossovers is wrong
I submitted the following question
to the AI in a web browser: “If you
have an 8 ohm woofer and a 4 ohm
tweeter, both rated for a sensitivity of
89dB (2.83V at 1m), does this mean
that neither should be attenuated to
blend with a flat response?” I got this
response:
No, the drivers will not have the
same output level in a typical amplifier setup and the tweeter will likely
need attenuation. The sensitivity rating of 89dB at 2.83V is measured at a
constant voltage, which results in different power levels due to the different
impedances.
Here is a breakdown of the power
delivered:
• 8 ohm woofer: At 2.83V, the power
is 1W.
• 4 ohm tweeter: At the same 2.83V,
the power is 2W.
Since the 4 ohm tweeter receives
twice the power (+3dB) for the same
input voltage, it will be approximately
3dB louder than the 8 ohm woofer
at the specified sensitivity rating. In
practice, tweeters often have higher
inherent sensitivity than woofers, and
most crossover designs incorporate a
resistor network (L-pad) to attenuate
the tweeter and achieve a balanced
frequency response.
continued on page 104
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
March 2026 103
Therefore, you will likely need to
attenuate the tweeter to blend properly with the woofer and achieve a
flat response. This adjustment is usually handled within the design of the
speaker’s passive crossover network.
I believe this response is incorrect
since it assumes that both drivers have
the same efficiency. I think the AI is
correct that the 4W tweeter will pass
twice the current and hence twice the
power, but this does not in itself mean
that the tweeter will produce 3dB more
sound. This would only be true if both
had the same efficiency.
The fact that both are rated to produce the identical sound pressure
level of 89dB established during actual
tests must show that the tweeter is half
as efficient as the woofer. In my opinion, the AI is ignoring this information
and assuming that if the tweeter draws
twice the power, then it must produce
twice the sound pressure level. (P. T.,
Casula, NSW)
● Your question states that, fed with
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Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 103
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104
Silicon Chip
the same voltage, both drivers will
produce the same sound level. But
since you stated one has an 8W impedance and one has a 4W impedance, at
a fixed voltage level, the 4W speaker
is running at 2W and the 8W speaker
is running at 1W. That means the 4W
speaker is 3dB less efficient than the
8W speaker.
However, because their sensitivity
rating is being given relative to a voltage, if you connected them in parallel
and drove them from a voltage source,
they would give roughly the same
sound output level. The lower efficiency of the 4W driver is cancelled
out by the fact that it will draw more
power when driven with the same
voltage as the 8W driver.
Still, this is an odd way to specify
efficiency; it’s more commonly specified as a decibel level at a specific
power level (typically 1W).
You might be surprised to find that
if you test this in the real world, the
speaker output levels may not be
well-matched if connected in parallel.
Whether the tweeter will need attenuation depends on the actual measured
on-baffle responses and the crossover.
Toroidal core spec for
electric fence
I’m going to build the “New High
Power Electric Fence” project from
the April 1999 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/4577). I’m having trouble
understanding which E30 ferrite cores
I should use. I found several sizes
available, for example: NEE30/15/14,
NEE30/15/11, NEE30/15/7 and
NEE30/11/11. The numbers between
the slashes indicate the width and
thickness of the core.
These measurements substantially
alter the Ae and Le parameters of these
cores. The article doesn’t include the
Jaycar store code, so I don’t know
which one to use. Can you help me
by providing this information? (N. B.
E., Sao Paulo, Brazil)
● The 30/15/14 cores you mentioned are suitable. Jaycar doesn’t sell
this size of core, so there wasn’t a catalog code to provide.
HV supply wanted for
testing capacitors
Are you going to design a high-
voltage power supply, say 50-300V
DC at up to 3mA? I want to charge
capacitors to test them. (R. M., Melville, WA)
● The Insulation Tester circuit (May
1996; siliconchip.au/Article/5007) has
a high-voltage generator that could be
easily modified to provide a 50-300V
DC supply.
By removing (shorting out) one of
the 4.7MW resistors in the feedback
divider, you can get output voltages of
500V, 300V, 250V, 125V or 50V (switch
positions 1 to 5) at the cathode of diode
D3. Everything after diode D3, including the lower half of the circuit, is not
required.
Alternatively, use the circuit we
designed specifically for testing capacitors, the Electrolytic Reformer & Tester from August & September 2010
(siliconchip.au/Series/10). The circuit
board and programmed PIC microcontroller are still available.
Substituting tantalum
for aluminium caps
I am currently building the Audio
Signal Injector & Tracer from June 2015
(siliconchip.au/Article/8603) and am
having difficulty finding electrolytic
capacitors short enough to fit in the
case. Is it feasible to use tantalum
capacitors instead (100μF 16V and 1μF
16V)? (J. A., Townsville, Qld)
● Yes, you can use tantalum caps
instead of aluminium electrolytics for
SC
the Signal Injector and Tracer.
Errata and on-sale date for the next issue
Ultrasonic Cleaner part 2, October 2020: in the winding instructions in Fig.9,
the reference to pin 19 should say pin 8 instead.
Scale Speed Checker for model railway, January 2026: the 120Ω resistors
should be in series with pin 2 of the connectors for the IR sensors (and
the photodiodes), not pin 1 (the collectors). Also, the IR LED anodes and
cathodes should be swapped.
Next Issue: the April 2026 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Monday, March
30th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between March
27th and April 13th.
Australia's electronics magazine
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