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2
Silicon Chip
Editorial Viewpoint
Myths about SMD soldering
I often see people recommending that a soldering
iron with a fine tip should be used for soldering
surface-
mount devices (SMDs). While a fine tip
sometimes comes in handy, most of the time it is
not what an experienced technician will use to solder SMDs. The problem is that small tips have poor
heat transfer; you need good heat transfer to solder
SMDs properly.
I think there are a few reasons that this advice persists. To start, it seems
to make sense if you have little experience soldering. To solder small parts,
you need a small tip, don’t you? Another is that I suspect many people are
not using enough flux, or the right flux, when soldering. Using the right flux
is like magic. With it, solder seems to ‘know’ where it should go!
I generally use a medium conical tip (the kind that often comes with the
soldering iron) for most SMD work, as well as most through-hole components. Perhaps that is out of laziness. But it works pretty well, even for finepitch ICs. The only time it doesn’t work is for parts like QFNs where you
have to get in really close to the device, and the larger ball end of the tip has
trouble making contact.
I’ve seen experienced soldering technicians recommend using large chisel
tips because they overcome that problem; you can angle them to get into tight
spaces, but they still have a large tip with a high thermal mass so that they
don’t lose temperature as soon as they touch cold solder. They also have a
large surface area to transfer heat when you need it.
Regardless, you may be doing yourself a disservice if using a fine tip for
general SMD soldering. I’ve tried it and it’s so frustrating trying to get heat
into the joints. Sometimes such a tip isn’t even capable of transferring enough
heat into joints on larger parts to form proper fillets!
The thing is that when you add a proper flux paste or gel (not liquid – that’s
for different applications), enough to coat the pads and pins, all you need to do
is touch molten solder to the pin/pad interface and it’ll be pulled into place.
Do it quickly, with the right technique, and you can perfectly solder a
whole side of an IC, with perhaps 14 pins, in a few seconds. The excess solder will simply stay on the iron tip; only the amount needed flows onto the
part or pad.
I must warn against a technique I’ve seen some people use where they
apply solder paste to a device pin and then touch it with the iron to melt it
and reflow the joint. It sounds like a good option, but the hot iron hitting the
cold solder paste can cause the tiny, invisible solder balls to fly off at high
speed, landing who knows where. They could cause problems later.
Solder paste is best used with a hot air wand or reflow oven, where it can
be melted slowly and in a controlled manner. If you don’t want to deal with
hand-soldering SMDs, those are good options, but I primarily use a hot air
device for removing parts, not soldering them. I’m always worried I will
blow parts away during soldering! Still, obviously it is possible with the
right technique.
Writing this reminds me of a YouTube video where Louis Rossmann (a
major figure in the Right to Repair movement) demonstrates replacing an
SMD display connector on a MacBook that has dozens of small pins. He uses
a large chisel-tip soldering iron with a lot of flux gel, and you can clearly see
what he is doing under the microscope: https://youtu.be/z1EOTP51fz0?t=1116
by Nicholas Vinen
Cover background image: https://unsplash.com/photos/shooting-star-in-night-sky-5LOhydOtTKU
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