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Contents
Vol.39, No.07
July 2026
12 Soft Robots
Part 1: p28
Soft robots are flexible and adaptable machines that are useful in many
different roles, like performing delicate surgery, squeezing through rubble,
or even just working in crowded environments.
By Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
Robotics feature
38 T50 Robot Mop & Vacuum
The Ecovacs DEEBOT T50 Pro Omni is one of the more advanced cleaning
robots available today. It has some advanced mapping and navigation
features.
Review by Nicholas Vinen
Automated cleaning robot
66 Making Simple Enclosures
Off-the-shelf enclosures for projects can be expensive; they’re also usually
not the exact size you’re looking for. So I came up with a way to make my
own low-cost enclosures in any size.
By Andrew Woodfield, ZL2PD
Enclosures for projects
Adjustable
Ultrasonic Cleaner
DEEBOT T50 Pro Omni
Robot Mop & Vacuum
84 Altium Designer 2026
Each year brings a new major version of Altium Designer, the electronic
design automation software that we use to produce our circuits and PCBs.
This version improves wiring harness support, ActiveBoM & file importing.
Review by Tim Blythman
Software feature
28 Adjustable Ultrasonic Cleaner
Rated at up to 40W, our Ultrasonic Cleaner is fully adjustable for frequency,
power and duration. It can use a variety of baths ranging from 2.5L to 4L in
volume, and it is powered from a 12-15V DC supply.
Part 1 by John Clarke
Cleaning project
50 Phenomenal Pinball Machine
This series explains how to design and build every part of your own Pinball
Machine. This month we cover the multiple PCBs and their respective
circuit diagrams that control the Pinball Machine.
Part 2 by Phil Prosser
Gaming project
70 DCC Accessory Decoders
These two accessory decoders are used to control fixed devices such as
points and signals in a model railway layout. One design is for snap-type &
slow-motion point motors, while the other works with servo-type motors.
Part 8 By Tim Blythman
Model train project
80 I2C Controller
This I2C Controller makes programming our Accessory Decoders above
a breeze. However, this is not its only use; you could connect it to other
devices that need a simple user interface.
Part 9 By Tim Blythman
Model train project
Page 38
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
Mailbag
25
Subscriptions
47
Circuit Notebook
69
Online Shop
88
Serviceman’s Log
94
Vintage Radio
101
Ask Silicon Chip
103
Market Centre
104
Advertising Index
104
Notes & Errata
1. A 15V split-supply from 5V USB
2. 3-digit mini LCD module
3. Randomly-timed model traffic lights
4. Capacitive proximity sensor
National R-72 “Toot-a-Loop” by Ian Batty
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Silicon Chip
Editorial Viewpoint
Looming smartphone obsolescence
We will soon reach the point where hundreds of millions of perfectly usable smartphones are made obsolete
through software rather than hardware failure. Flagship
and midrange phones released around 2019 still have
hardware that is perfectly adequate today, with good cameras, good screens and processors fast enough for everyday use. Yet many of those phones will be abandoned.
Some 2019 Android phones are stuck on Android 10
or 11, with no further updates from the manufacturer.
Increasingly, apps are dropping support for those older versions. That means
people with otherwise usable phones may soon be unable to run important apps,
including banking, authentication, payment and other essential services.
That is not because the hardware has suddenly become useless. There is nothing about a five- or six-year-old smartphone that makes it inherently incapable
of doing its fundamental job. The problem is that the software support chain
has been cut off.
Whether or not this is deliberate in every case, the result is indistinguishable
from planned obsolescence. The industry has created a system where software
support is tied to hardware replacement cycles. When updates stop, app support
gradually disappears, and consumers are pushed toward replacing devices that
may still work perfectly well.
Drivers and firmware may depend on the chip vendor. Testing and certification also take time and money. But those explanations do not change the end
result: usable hardware is being discarded because the software ecosystem has
been designed that way.
Compare this with a laptop or desktop computer, where you can usually install
a newer operating system yourself. That is true even though there is a much
wider variety of hardware in PCs than in smartphones. The operating systems
are designed to cope with that variety.
Smartphones are more locked down than PCs, and that is part of the problem.
It prevents otherwise serviceable hardware from having a longer life. If a phone is
powerful enough to run a newer version of Android, users should not be entirely
dependent on the original manufacturer choosing to provide it.
We do not rely on Dell, Hewlett Packard, Asus or other PC makers to keep our
desktop and laptop computers up to date forever. The operating system vendor
provides updates, and in the case of Linux, you can still install a current operating system on very old hardware. I know because I have done it.
It may be slower or limited in some ways, but you can keep using the computer as long as it remains practical. Five-to-six-year-old hardware should not
be considered obsolete, especially when the advances in smartphone hardware
over that period have been fairly modest for normal use.
Windows 11 has attracted criticism for artificially excluding older PCs that are
still capable of useful work. We should be just as concerned about smartphones.
In fact, the smartphone problem may be worse, because phones are replaced more
often, sold in much larger numbers, and contain batteries, rare metals and other
materials that are costly to produce and recycle. This is going to create a giant
pile of unnecessary e-waste.
This is not just an Android problem either. iPhones have the same basic problem, although they are generally supported for longer. An iPhone can be physically fine, but eventually it stops receiving major iOS updates. Once that happens,
app support gradually drops away as developers raise their minimum supported
iOS version. At the time of writing, Apple’s current iOS compatibility list starts
at the iPhone 11 generation, so anything older than that is already outside the
current major iOS line.
A device that still works and has a usable battery should not become useless
because the software update chain has been cut off. That is wasteful, unnecessary
and one of the more indefensible aspects of the modern smartphone ecosystem.
Cover robot image: UC San Diego Jacobs School of Engineering
www.flickr.com/photos/jsoe/46570014664 (CC-BY-2.0)
Australia's electronics magazine
by Nicholas Vinen
siliconchip.com.au
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your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
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Comments on analog
computers
I was interested to read
the article in the May issue
about Analog Computers
(May & June 2026 issues;
siliconchip.au/Series/459).
In 1982, I designed an analog computer to provide
simulated inertia for model
trains. The voltage at the
output of the analog computer controlled the train
speed via a train speed controller. I’ve attached a scan
of the papers I wrote at the
time (shown opposite).
Len Cox, Forest Hill, Vic.
More on vintage analog
computers
Regarding the Analog
Computers article in the May 2026 issue, many years ago
as a young Army Telecommunication Mechanic, I was
able to examine an obsolete British WWII No.10 Predictor.
I was intrigued by a major component of the Predictor: a large wire-wound logarithmic potentiometer. It was
about 500mm in diameter, with a Bakelite former about
200mm wide. The wiper arm was connected to the optical mechanism.
The Predictor was used by the operators to optically
track aircraft using a telescope. It indicated bearing, computed range and height.
This information was sent to a searchlight or anti-aircraft
gun by a servo-type system, thus predicting the aiming
point for the searchlights and AA guns. I guess this is an
example of an early analog computer.
Peter Johnston, Merimbula, NSW.
The skin effect can be a major efficiency penalty
As a design engineer, I recently had to develop a boost
converter for use in a product. The requirements weren’t
particularly onerous, with a 29V/1.2A output. My first port
of call was the TI Webench design tool. I’ve used this quite
a few times in the past and have had good results from it,
although I mostly use it for buck converters.
I didn’t have a lot of space available on my PCB, so I
selected the “Small Footprint” option with my design
parameters, and after a bit of deliberation, I selected the
LM5155 IC, designed the circuit to match what Webench
4
Silicon Chip
provided and integrated the parts into my board following
the layout recommendations in the data sheet.
When the PCB came back, I ran it up and was pleased with
the results – between Webench giving an accurate design
and KiCad’s netlist checking, it’s fairly hard to go wrong,
at least with the basics. However, load testing revealed it
was running way too hot – on my bench, in the open air, I
measured the inductor at around 100°C!
I tried a bigger inductor with a higher current rating and
found similar results. Obviously, this was not acceptable
and needed to be sorted out before going into production.
Because it was the inductor that was getting so hot, the
first thing I did was look into its specifications. Most importantly, I looked at the current rating; boost converters can
be pretty demanding on inductors, with peak currents way
higher than the output current.
In my case, the current rating of the inductor I was using
was about what Webench had asked for, and it was a good
quality part from Würth.
While I was wondering how I was going to figure this out,
I remembered something I read in a recent issue of Silicon
Chip – it was in the January instalment of the “Power Electronics” series (pages 28 & 29; siliconchip.au/Series/452)
where Andrew Levido mentioned skin depth.
I thought the article had stated not to use switching frequencies above 100kHz unless you have special inductors,
but on re-reading, that’s not what it says. It just shows the
skin depth at 1MHz as being way smaller than at 100kHz.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
For what I was doing, however, with an amp of load or so,
it turns out that a 100kHz maximum switching frequency
is not a bad rule of thumb.
Because I had selected the “Small Footprint” option,
Webench had chosen to run at the highest frequency available for the LM5155 to get the smallest inductor. The resulting operating frequency was around 2.2MHz – no wonder
my inductor was cooking. At this frequency, the current
was travelling in the outer 45μm of the copper, so the effective resistance was much higher.
I looked at the specifications of the inductor I was using,
and it made no mention of an upper frequency limit or any
frequency derating; it didn’t really have any high-frequency
rating at all.
I went back to Webench and looked at some of its other
part recommendations for similar 2MHz converters. One it
recommended was a Coilcraft part that had a nice inductance/frequency graph; however, this graph topped out at
100kHz. I came to the conclusion that Webench doesn’t
make any allowance for high-frequency effects at all.
To confirm I was on the right track, I tried reducing the
frequency of the converter by changing the requisite resistor. It was an 0402 package SMD resistor, and I managed
to graft on a 100kW 0603 size part I had on hand in place.
This took the frequency down to more like 220kHz.
A quick test of this configuration showed the temperature stabilising at more like 75°C, so I was definitely on the
right track. Currently, I’m planning to redesign it to run at
around 100kHz.
There are a few takeaways from this:
• Webench doesn’t take into account frequency effects
in inductors. I realise the difficulty they would have in
doing so, but I still feel this is a bit of a flaw in the tool,
especially when they calculate an efficiency to tenths of a
percent; I doubt mine comes anywhere near the ~95% it
predicted! It selected parts that were completely inappropriate for the job.
• Unless a manufacturer states an inductor is rated for
a particular frequency, assume its maximum is around
100kHz.
• Try to keep the switching frequency somewhere around
100kHz, perhaps a bit higher for lower-current designs and
vice versa.
• It’s good to read magazine articles; it’s surprising what
you pick up even if it’s not the prime focus of the article.
I contacted TI about this, but they didn’t respond. I still
think Webench is a good tool, but watch out regarding the
frequency it chooses for you.
D.T., Sylvania, NSW.
Comment: you make some good points. We have had
success with switchmode converters running well above
100kHz, although in retrospect this may have depended
heavily on choosing suitable inductors.
For example, the April-June 2014 40V Switchmode/
Linear Bench Supply (siliconchip.au/Series/241) used an
LM5118 buck/boost controller running at around 500kHz,
and we found it to be reasonably efficient up to 5A with the
Signal Transformer SCIHP1367 inductor we chose.
Its data sheet specifies performance at 200kHz and mentions operation up to 5MHz, suggesting that it was intended
for relatively high-frequency switchmode use. That may
be due to its winding construction, core material, or other
design features that reduce high-frequency losses.
6
Silicon Chip
So while 100kHz is probably too conservative as a hard
limit, your broader warning is sound: at higher switching
frequencies, the inductor’s DC current rating alone is not
enough. Designers need to check frequency-related losses
and temperature rise, and should be wary of design tools
that optimise mainly for size without fully accounting for
those effects.
Suggestion for an updated ‘comfort indicator’
Once again, many thanks for the June 2026 edition of
Silicon Chip. I really enjoyed Nicholas Vinen’s editorial on
device “presets” that seem to lead to corrupted reality (in
this case, sound). One wonders how often good engineering design is diminished by marketing and other groupthink ideas.
Regarding the Comfort Indicator project in that same issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/20362), for many years I worked in
a professional engineering office. The building was a transformed factory brought up to a very good set of thermal
designs, including quiet and diffuse air circulation (these
looked like large fabric ducts that ‘leaked’ air according to
the diameter and weave).
Unfortunately, my workstation seemed to get above-
average airflow and velocity, so I was always cold, no matter the season. Facilities management was dutiful in using
several instruments to determine if it was me or the HVAC
system at fault.
To me, the fundamental missing component of the test
instruments used was that there was no sensor or measurement that measured the effect of air velocity on skin.
Despite volunteering to attach an array of temperature sensors to my hands, ears, etc to get a true picture, nothing
was achieved.
My final thought on ‘my’ problem was to design a comfort
instrument that uses multiple sets of temperature sensors:
a dry bulb, a wet bulb, plus a second wet bulb sensor in
its own draft-free enclosure, in multiple locations. I didn’t
attempt to construct one before management decided to
move me to another workstation with less air movement.
The daily solution was to use a fan heater under my desk
to keep me warm in the height of Melbourne summers!
Nonetheless, this idea remains fertile in my mind, as
I wonder if there is an opportunity to design and build a
‘comfort sensor’ that is able to include the airflow effect
on skin and predict true skin temperature.
Mark Schijf, Doncaster East, Vic.
Comment: wind speed is certainly taken into account
for “feels like” temperatures given on weather reports. We
may be able to update the Human Comfort Indicator one
day with some kind of draft-sensing facility. An automotive
‘hot wire’ style airflow meter would likely do the job, but it
would probably be too power-hungry for a small battery-
powered device!
Comments on the Airzone 6552A vintage radio
The 6U7 is a ‘triple-grid’ valve, with a separate external
connection for the suppressor (pin 5) that is not shown on
the Airzone 6552A circuit (May 2026, p107; siliconchip.
au/Article/20247). Separate suppressor connections were
common in this generation of octal pentodes, and in their
predecessor UX-based types.
The Airzone circuit’s symbol for the 6A8 is also wrong as
it shows only one of the two internally connected screens;
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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the screen between the second grid/oscillator anode is
missing.
It’s not our job to correct manufacturer’s mistakes, but
it’s worth noting that until at least the 1950s, some manufacturers used their own confusing symbology, with AWA’s
inexplicable insistence on drawing their valve symbols
upside-down and with the connecting pins in order clockwise, and confusing internal routing inside the symbol’s
envelope as the worst, most common examples.
It is much better to draw the electrodes in a logical order,
then distribute the pin numbers to match.
Ian Batty, Malvern East, Vic.
Power Electronics series appreciated
I want to thank Andrew Levido for his article series on
Power Electronics (siliconchip.au/Series/452). He has a way
of making it all seem easier. I always understood electronics through its formulas and their application.
Norm Boundy, Melbourne, Vic.
Amplifiers should have a VAS clamp diode
I really cannot agree with Douglas Self’s opinion not to
use a Baker clamp diode on the voltage amplification stage
(VAS) in his Blameless amplifier design. It makes no logical sense. I think he said something like he was building
linear amplifiers, not fuzz boxes, and dismissed them. But
of course, when a linear amplifier is driven into clipping,
its behaviour in this mode is important.
Most of the time, until approaching clipping, the diode
is significantly reverse-biased and really only represents a
small, slightly non-linear capacitance of a few picofarads,
if that. It is little different, in fact, from the reverse-biased
collector-to-base junction capacitance of the VAS transistor itself.
I doubt that the distortion from that would be anywhere
near as detectable as that caused by the VAS transistor’s storage time, which is easily visible in oscilloscope recordings.
As clipping is approaching, the diode will start to conduct in the forward direction, and one could argue there
would be a trace of non-linearity there. But the thing is,
the collector voltage of the VAS is already falling below its
base voltage and approaching the saturation voltage; the
system is right on clipping then anyway, and the idea of
a perfectly reproduced waveform at that point is far from
logical.
It pays to recall a transistor amplifier’s behaviour at
clipping; it is the higher-frequency harmonics that make
it sound bad. Music has a very wide dynamic range, and
even with the amplifier on half of the maximum listening volume, the peaks will be getting clipped. Multiple
high-frequency harmonics are then introduced into the
sound because of the VAS transistor’s storage time.
It is not just about a distortion test at a level before clipping; it is about what happens with music as the source.
With the diode added, the VAS transistor would never enter
hard saturation, and the storage time concern would not
be there to cause the ‘rail sticking’.
It is the storage time that matters; it is not really about
the cited transistor’s output capacitance, although transistors with low base-collector feedback capacitances and
low-range collector output capacitances, like video output
transistors, do tend to have shorter storage times.
There is another trick to avoid the actually not-so-sinister
8
Silicon Chip
Baker clamp, perhaps not commonly used, and that is if
the single BJT stage is replaced by a Darlington pair. The
Darlington arrangement prevents the output transistor of
the pair from going into hard saturation on overdrive.
This also drastically increases the open-loop gain. However, with the loop closed as it is, the AC gain would remain
about the same. It would be a matter of trying that one out
to see if instability or other issues occurred, but the simple solution is a schottky diode from the base to the collector of the VAS.
Dr Hugo Holden, Buddina, Qld.
Comment: we agree that there is no real disadvantage
in adding the clamp diode. Note that our Ultra-LD Mk.3 &
Mk.4 amplifiers, as well as the SC200, use the Darlington
VAS approach and we found it worked very well, although
we had to go to some effort to ensure stability. The SC200
also includes a BAV21 low-capacitance silicon clamp diode
for good measure.
Nano Pong trouble with HDMI adaptor
I saw the discussion about difficulties running your Nano
Pong project (August 2021; siliconchip.au/Article/14988)
through a composite to HDMI converter in the June 26 issue
(Ask Silicon Chip, page 104).
From the research I have done so far in converting VGA
to HDMI, there are strict synchronisation and pixel clock
requirements. The minimum VGA resolution is 640×480
pixels and a 25.175MHz pixel clock.
I have also found out that the converter has the same
bandwidth limits as a normal TV. That means that a 7MHz
pixel clock is OK, but the double-resolution from an Apple
][ using a 14MHz clock won’t work.
The other requirement for any composite-to-HDMI converter is a clean sync signal. If the sync signal does not
conform to the standard or is too weak, it cannot be locked
onto by the converter and will result in a few possible display problems:
• a rolling or jittering picture
• tearing or skewed lines
• no-signal errors
• a blank screen
From what the reader wrote, I believe the problem may
be related to the sync signal. From reading the Nano Pong
article, I cannot determine whether it complies with the
PAL 625-line, 50Hz standard, nor the voltage levels for
sync and video.
The HDMI converter may have stricter tolerances compared to an old TV.
The missing colour burst (as the Nano Pong has a monochrome output) should not affect video beyond colour display. The converter should simply revert to monochrome
mode. It also does not care whether it is NTSC or PAL, as
the converters are universal. Example converters are the
Simplecom CM401 for analog composite video and the
CM201 for VGA.
In the Television Engineering Handbook by K. Blair
Benson, Chapter 21 on page 21.75, it states the basic voltage percentages are: sync level 25±2.5%, video 75±2.5%,
blanking level to black level 7.5±2.5%. The black level is
higher than the blanking level. Both NTSC and PAL use
the same voltage levels.
I believe that the Nano Pong sync voltage level probably does not meet the standard. It is about 30.4%, which
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exceeds the 25±2.5% standard. To get it within specification, increase the resistance of the 1kW sync resistor to 1.21.3kW. This should bring it into voltage specifications and
may fix the reader’s problem.
However, this will not fix any frequency-dependent
problems, like sync pulse widths and position etc. They
too need to be within the tolerances of the standard for the
HDMI converter to lock on and convert each frame.
I have found out that some converters do not support
non-interlaced video, expecting the true interlaced composite video signal, including the serrated vertical sync
pulse as per the standard. It will try to de-interlace the
video, but it is not there and fails there.
Of the Simplecom series, the ordinary CM401 apparently
needs it, while the CM461 is specifically intended for old
PCs like the Commodore 64, which produce progressive
scan non-interlaced video. However, the CM461 needs a
special cable and connector to separate power and signal
from the combined connector.
I cannot confirm my conclusions because I do not have
a Nano Pong on hand, but hopefully, some of this information helps.
Wolf-Dieter Kuenne, Bayswater, Vic.
UHF transmitter supplier seems to have changed
I am in the process of assembling the Secure Remote
Mains Switch described in the July & August 2022 issues
(siliconchip.au/Series/383). You mention using a Jaycar
ZW3100 UHF ASK 433.92MHz transmitter. The pinout of
this particular transmitter is not suitable; the GND and Vcc
pins don’t go to the right pads on your PCB.
Additionally, its overall thickness is 6.5mm, compared
to the Altronics Z6900 which, according to the data sheet,
is 5.7mm.
Wayne Favier, Atherton, Qld.
Comment: thanks for your information. Jaycar must have
changed its supplier since the publication of the Secure
Remote Mains Switch articles in 2022. The UHF transmitter module used in the project was a ZW3100 that we purchased from Jaycar, but it looks different from the photos
you sent.
Recent problems with TV reception
Regarding Bruce Pierson’s comments on degraded freeto-air TV reception (March 2026 issue, Mailbag, page 10),
I have similar problems with accessing Channel 7 here in
Melbourne. However, the problems are usually only with
CH7. In our case, the TV fires up with CH7 “not available” but after switching on the set-top box (a Panasonic),
it works again.
I had an “expert” look into it, and the conclusion was that
the high-quality cabling I had installed had water damage.
The cabling was replaced, but the problem returned and
remains, such that the only way to restore on-air reception of CH7 is to reset my set-top box. Given that this does
not happen with my Humax set-top box, it is somewhat
intriguing.
Having been involved in the installation of all major city
transmitters back in the early 1970s and ongoing involvement in the supply of various interface and monitoring systems, all I can think of is that some organisations are trying
to stuff more into the available bandwidth than is possible.
SC
Robert Forbes, Forest Hill, Vic.
10
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SOFT ROBOTS
by Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
Prof. Cecilia Laschi’s robotic octopus
from the National University of Singapore.
Source: Jennie Hills, The Science Museum, London
Imagine a robot navigating through a disaster zone, squeezing through rubble like
a worm to find trapped survivors, or a medical soft gripper handling human tissues
or even squeezing through veins and arteries. This is beyond the capabilities of
traditional robots, but within the emerging field of soft robotics.
S
oft robotics is still mostly confined
to laboratory research, but there
are emerging areas of commercial devices. Soft robotics is a blend
of biology, materials science, engineering and AI to create flexible, adaptable machines that can mimic living
organisms.
Unlike conventional robots with
fixed joints and stiff links, soft robots
are built primarily from compliant,
deformable materials like elastomers
or elastomer-like materials (eg, silicones and hydrogels) that can stretch,
bend, twist and squash.
This flexibility enables safer interaction with humans, adaptability to
unpredictable environments and the
imitation of natural movement, from
12
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the muscular hydrostats of an octopus
tentacle to the crawling of a caterpillar.
Soft robotics might be used for just
part of a traditional robot, such as a
gripper at the end of a conventional
robot arm (an ‘end effector’), to pick
up delicate items like fruits and vegetables, or perhaps for legs, as with the
robot turtle we will discuss.
The emergence of soft robotics is
driven partly by the demand for new
and more versatile robots for applications not suitable for existing robots,
such as delicate surgery; operating in
restricted, unstructured environments
like disaster zones; or crowded environments like factories.
Soft robotics is being made possible
with technologies like:
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• advanced 3D printing techniques
that allow elastomers and other specialised materials to be printed
• artificial intelligence and microfluidic ‘brains’ for control
• novel materials, such as those with
self-healing and stimuli-
responsive
properties
• diverse actuation mechanisms
(pneumatic, hydraulic, electrostatic
and more) to provide powerful yet
gentle motion
• flexible (bendable) sensors and
electronics
This article explores the materials,
mechanisms and biological inspirations behind soft robots, plus examines their growing applications across
medicine, manufacturing, exploration
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and more. We will look at the role of
microfluidics in some designs, and
investigate real-world commercial
products, before addressing remaining
challenges and glimpsing at possible
future applications.
Fluidics is a concept that will come
up throughout this article. We published a detailed article on its principles in August 2019 (siliconchip.au/
Article/11762).
Characteristics of soft robots
Soft robots are constructed primarily from soft, highly deformable and
compliant materials that enable them
to bend, twist, stretch, and conform to
complex shapes. This inherent softness and conformability give their
movements a fluidity far more reminiscent of biological organisms than
traditional rigid robots.
Rather than relying solely on conventional electric motors and geared
joints, as with rigid robots, soft robots
frequently employ pneumatic or
hydraulic actuators (inflating or pressurising fluid-filled chambers) to generate motion. Control can come from
traditional embedded electronics and/
or AI, or in some designs, from microfluidic logic circuits for certain tasks
like locomotion.
While microfluidic logic circuits can
provide basic rhythmic or sequential
locomotion capabilities (eg, alternating leg motion like an insect or simple
oscillating gaits), they cannot perform
the complex, high-speed processing
or adaptive decision-making possible
with traditional CPUs, GPUs, NPUs
and AI algorithms.
Historical evolution and
biological inspiration
The first entirely soft and autonomous robot is generally regarded as
the Octobot (2016), which will be discussed later. It is made of soft silicone
gel and uses pneumatic actuation to
control its limbs from a microfluidic
logic circuit. As implied by its name,
it is inspired by the octopus.
Prior to the Octobot, there were
various foundational developments,
including smart and flexible materials, advanced fabrication techniques
like 3D printing of soft materials, and
new methods of mathematical modelling and control for compliant systems.
Pneumatic actuators, as used in
modern soft robots, trace their origins back to 1957 with the McKibben
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artificial muscle (also known as the
pneumatic artificial muscle or “air
muscle”). These compliant actuators
featured a rubber bladder inside a
braided sleeve that contracted when
pressurised, mimicking biological
muscle contraction.
That was one of the earliest uses of
soft, deformable materials for actuation. The artificial muscle was initially developed for artificial limbs
and orthotic devices to help paralysed
patients grasp objects.
Although industrial robots existed
at the time (eg, Unimate, described in
our May 2017 article; siliconchip.au/
Article/10641), McKibben’s innovation laid the foundation for the compliant pneumatic actuators that power
many present-day soft robots.
In the early 1990s, researchers
including S. Shimachi and M. Matsumoto pioneered the use of silicone
micro-actuators and soft compliant
fingers for robotic manipulation. Their
work modelled deformation, friction
and grasping stability of deformable
silicone fingertips.
This marked one of the earliest systematic investigations into compliant, soft end-effectors, demonstrating improved adaptability, reduced
object damage and enhanced force
control compared to rigid fingers. This
research paved the way for the modern soft robotics era, influencing later
pneumatic soft grippers and compliant actuators.
During the 1990s, robotics research
also saw growing interest in bio-
inspired designs, with projects such
as Joseph Ayers’ lobster-like robots,
which drew on animal locomotion for
inspiration. However, these early systems remained rigid, using hard exoskeletons and conventional motors
rather than compliant materials.
Together, pneumatic artificial muscles, the systematic modelling of soft
silicone actuators and the increasing
emphasis on biological inspiration
laid the conceptual and technical
groundwork that would enable the
emergence of modern soft robotics in
the following decade.
Materials
Many different materials are used
in the fabrication of soft robots. Elastomers and silicones are used for their
high levels of flexibility, stretchability
and formability. Shape memory materials are also used, which change shape
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in response to heat, light and electric
fields. They may be polymers (plastics) or metals.
Electroactive polymers deform
when an electric field is applied.
Hydrogels can be engineered with
many desired properties, such as
responsiveness to environmental
parameters like pH, humidity, light
and magnetic fields. A hydrogel is a
polymer material that can retain large
amounts of water, giving them a soft,
flexible consistency similar to living
tissue or jelly.
Elastomers such as silicone (eg,
PDMS & Ecoflex) and thermoplastic
polyurethane (TPU) are commonly
used in soft robotics, as are hydrogels.
Shape memory polymers and metal
alloys are ‘smart’ materials that can be
deformed into a temporary shape and
then, by the action of some stimulus,
return to their original shape. For polymers, the stimulus may be heat, light
or electricity; for alloys, it can be heat.
Piezoelectric polymers can convert
motion to electricity and vice versa.
Self-healing materials are being
researched for soft robotics, to enable
robots to autonomously repair damage
and extend their operational lifespan
in challenging environments.
These materials, typically based
on polymers like silicones or hydrogels, incorporate reversible chemical
bonds, embedded microcapsules or
vascular networks containing healing agents.
They activate upon crack formation
and release monomers to polymerise or flow to seal breaches, a bit like
self-sealing tanks on military aircraft
or the platelets in our blood.
When damage occurs, such as cuts,
punctures or fatigue, the material can
restore its mechanical properties. In
soft robotics, self-healing enhances
their durability for applications like
medical devices (eg, catheters that can
repair themselves inside the body),
disaster-response robots operating in
harsh conditions, or wearable exosuits
subject to wear.
Fabrication
Soft robotic components are typically either moulded or 3D printed.
Mould casting is a technique where
liquid elastomers are poured into
moulds, then cured and removed.
Channels or chambers can be cast
within the part for pneumatic or
hydraulic actuation. Multiple parts
July 2026 13
Fig.1: two flexible parts can be
moulded, then dipped in adhesive,
glued together and cured.
Fig.2: a dielectric elastomer actuator
changes its dimensions in response
to an electric field. Original source:
www.digikey.com/en/maker/projects/
diy-soft-robotics-dielectric-elastomerdot-actuator/5b77674365634d86b1f97
87fa4501c9b
Fig.3: a dielectric elastomer actuator
configured so the tip bends as the
electric field is cycled. Source: www.
digikey.com/en/maker/projects/diysoft-robotics-dielectric-elastomer-dotactuator/5b77674365634d86b1f9787f
a4501c9b
can be adhered together – see Fig.1.
This technique was used for the Octobot and is commonly used today for
robot grippers and many other components.
Mould casting is used for PneuNets
(pneumatic networks), a very common
type of soft robotic pneumatic actuator, described later.
3D printing includes a variety of
techniques such as FDM/FFF (fused
deposition modelling and fused filament fabrication) and DIW (direct ink
writing) to extrude materials like TPU,
silicones and hydrogels. Vat photopolymerisation (including SLA [stereolithography] and DLP [digital light processing]) is also used to cure liquid
resins with light.
Material jetting can be used to
deposit multiple materials simultaneously, including soft and rigid materials, possibly even embedding electronics.
“4D printing” is an emerging technique in which a material changes
shape after fabrication. Such a
device could be fabricated using the
moulding or 3D printing techniques
described above. Shape change is
brought about under the influence of
heat, light, moisture etc. This technique enables self-folding or self-
assembling robots, often biomedical
or miniature types.
Microfluidic controls for soft robots
are fabricated using a variety of techniques. These include subtractive
manufacturing (where materials are
removed to create microchannels),
moulding, micromachining and 3D
printing.
Actuation mechanisms
As typical motors are usually incompatible with soft robots, actuators to
generate movement typically rely on
methods involving electrical or fluidic activation and sometimes magnetic activation.
Electroactive polymer actuators use
various combinations of electrodes,
insulating polymers, conducting polymers and piezoelectric polymers to
achieve movement. Electroactive polymer actuators include:
Dielectric elastomer actuators
consist of a thin elastomer film
sandwiched between two compliant (stretchable) electrodes. When
a high voltage is applied across the
electrodes, the resulting electric field
compresses the elastomer and causes
it to expand in area, producing shape
change and mechanical work (see
Fig.2).
The elastomer film is typically tens
to hundreds of micrometres (µm)
thick, and operating voltages range
from tens of volts to several kilovolts.
In practical devices, multiple layers
are stacked to achieve greater force and
stroke. A common configuration uses
two elastomer layers with a shared
ground electrode in the middle and
separate high-voltage electrodes on
the outer sides, as in Fig.3.
This arrangement mimics antagonistic muscle pairs: applying a voltage
to one layer causes it to expand (contracting the opposing layer), enabling
bidirectional bending or linear motion.
Examples of dielectric elastomer grippers are shown in Fig.4.
An article on how to make your own
device can be found at siliconchip.au/
link/acao
Liquid crystal elastomer actuators
are advanced stimuli-responsive materials used in soft robotics for their ability to undergo large, reversible shape
changes, often changing dimension
by 50% or more when triggered by
external stimuli such as heat, light or
electric fields.
These materials combine the ordered
molecular alignment of liquid crystals
with the elasticity of polymer networks, allowing programmed molecular orientation during fabrication
Ground
Vchuck
Vactuator
P
Electrode terminals
DEA units
Vchuck = 0
Fig.4: examples of dielectric elastomer grippers and structure. Source: www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/10/2/640
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(eg, via 3D printing or alignment
techniques) to dictate precise deformation patterns like bending, twisting, or contracting. Challenges remain
in response speed, force output and
durability.
Fig.5 shows a variety of liquid crystal polymers and the shape transition
of liquid crystal elastomers. The liquid
crystal main chain polymers (LCP) are
shown, then a liquid crystal polymer
network (LCN), then a liquid crystal
elastomer (LCE). Only LCEs can perform a shape change. The difference
between LCNs and LCEs is that LCNs
have many more cross-links between
the polymer chains (too many to allow
a shape change).
Ionic polymer actuators bend or
deform when a voltage is applied,
mimicking muscles by moving ions
within a polymer membrane, causing
swelling in one area and shrinkage
in another, resulting in motion. Key
types are ionic polymer metal composites and ionic polymer gels. They
work through the application of a low
voltage, causing ions to migrate to
the oppositely charged electrode, as
shown in Fig.6.
Piezoelectric polymers are just like
ceramic piezoelectric crystals, such as
quartz. Motion is converted into electrical energy or vice versa. The main
difference is that a polymer is used
rather than a ceramic. PVDF (polyvinylidene fluoride) is a common piezoelectric polymer. Not only can such
polymers be used for actuators, they
can be used for sensors as well.
A single sheet of polymer will not
generate enough motion, so typically
they are assembled in two layers.
When an electric field is applied, one
layer shrinks and the other expands,
causing motion, as shown in Fig.7.
Conducting polymers (see our
November 2015 article on the topic)
are polymers such as polypyrrole that
are intrinsically electrically conducting and don’t rely on metal or carbon
fillers to render them conductive. Ions
can be moved into and out of them in
an appropriate solution, causing them
to change shape, as in Fig.8.
Hydraulic actuators use water or oil
to inflate a bladder or similar structure.
Magnetic actuators generate motion
via an external magnetic field interacting with magnetic materials inside
the robot.
Photoresponsive actuators react
to light by changing shape, stiffness
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Liquid crystal mainchain polymers (LCPs)
(A)
Liquid crystal polymer
networks (LCNs)
Liquid crystal phase
(B)
Liquid crystal
elastomers (LCEs)
Isotropic phase
Cooling
Heating
Fig.5: liquid crystal polymers. LCEs can change shape upon heating, cooling
or some other stimulus. Source: https://encyclopedia.pub/entry/history/
show/60582
Fig.6: the operation of ionic
polymer actuators. Original
Source: www.mdpi.com/20734360/17/6/746#polymers-17-00746-f002
Fig.7: an activated PVDF bimorph
showing motion from the vertical
position. Source: https://physics.
montana.edu/eam/polymers/
bimorphs.html
Fig.8: a conducting polymer (polypyrrole) actuator with motion as the voltage is
switched.
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July 2026 15
or volume. These include materials
such as:
Liquid-crystal elastomers, which
can change length by up to 50% when
exposed to light (mentioned above)
Polymers containing photosensitive compounds that bend or twist on
light exposure
Photothermal composites, which
contain layers of materials with different properties in which the structure
bends when exposed to light
Hydrogels with photosensitive compounds that change stiffness when
exposed to light
Pneumatic actuators are probably
the most common type of actuators
for soft robots. They use compressed
air, another gas or the decomposition
of a fuel like hydrogen peroxide to
generate gas.
A PneuNet is an example of such
an actuator. It typically has two layers
or areas; one that is extensible with
an internal air chamber, and another
inextensible layer or area. When the
extensible chamber is inflated, the
assembly bends, constrained by the
inextensible layer or area – see Fig.9.
They can be fabricated by casting in
3D-printed moulds.
Thermally responsive actuators
use shape memory alloys, polymers
or thermally responsive hydrogels
that change shape in response to heat.
Sensors
Sensors for soft robots are chosen for
their ability to maintain compliance
and stretchability so they can be integrated into soft, deformable bodies.
Examples include:
Stretch/strain sensors are thin,
stretchable films or fibres that change
electrical resistance or capacitance
when deformed. Materials include
carbon black in elastomers, or lowmelting-point liquid metal alloys
like EGaIn (liquid eutectic gallium-
indium) in microchannels. Applications may include force estimation
with grippers and soft exosuit strain
monitoring.
Soft pressure/tactile sensors measure contact pressure or distributed
force via changes in resistance, capacitance or optical properties. Techniques
include piezoresistive (conductive
foam/rubber), capacitive (elastomer
layers with flexible electrodes) or optical (light intensity change through
deformable waveguides).
Applications include gentle grasping of fragile objects (eg, fruit, eggs),
human-robot safe interaction and
texture discrimination. A commercial example is the grippers from Soft
Robotics Inc, which have embedded
soft tactile sensors for slip detection.
Embedded optical fibre sensors
detect strain, curvature or temperature by changes in light wavelength
or intensity. Applications include
surgical catheters or soft robot arms/
tentacles, and many other snake-like
soft manipulators for minimally invasive surgery.
Soft magnetic sensors use Hall-effect
Fig.9: a variety
of configurations
of PneuNet type
actuators to give
different shapes or
motions. Source:
https://elveflow.
com/microfluidicreviews/soft-robot/
sensors or magnetometers to detect
changes in magnetic fields from
embedded soft magnets or ferrofluids.
They can be used for curvature/angle
sensing in pneumatic actuators or soft
exosuits for joint angle measurement.
Ionic/electroactive polymer sensors use ionic polymer-metal composites (IPMC) or dielectric elastomers to
generate a voltage/current when bent
or stretched (self-sensing). Applications include self-sensing actuators
(one material acts as both the actuator and sensor).
Emerging/bio-inspired sensors such
as hydrogel-based chemo-sensors to
detect pH, temperature or specific
chemicals (eg, for environmental
monitoring); bio-hybrid sensors such
as living cells (eg, muscle cells) integrated with soft robots for chemical
or biological sensing; stretchable cameras (miniature soft cameras for visual
feedback, eg, in medical or underwater soft robots).
These sensors are often integrated
directly into the soft elastomer
body during fabrication (3D printing, moulding or embedding), making soft robots sensor-filled from the
inside out.
Mathematical modelling
Because of the ability to continually deform with infinite degrees of
freedom, soft robots need different
control and modelling strategies compared to traditional rigid-body robots.
New mathematical models have been
developed based on “Cosserat rod theory” to predict the complex non-linear
behaviour of such robots (see Fig.10).
Traditional and finite element analysis are also used.
Cosserot rod theory is a mathematical framework that applies to soft,
deformable slender structures like
rubbery tubes to accurately model
behaviours like bending, extension,
shear and twisting. Normal structural models cannot account for these
Fig.10: a variety of soft robot elements that are modelled
with Cosserat rod theory. They would be difficult or
impossible to model using other methods. Source: www.
researchgate.net/publication/383153694
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Soft controller
Fuel reservoirs
Reaction
chambers
Actuators
Vent orifices
Fuel
inlets
Upstream
check valves
Pinch Downstream
valves check valves
Outlets
Figs.12 & 13: Octobot, the first fully soft, electronics-free, autonomous robot (left) and the microfluidic device that controls
it (right). Sources: https://wyss.harvard.edu/news/the-first-autonomous-entirely-soft-robot/ | https://newatlas.com/
chemical-power-soft-robot-autnomous-harvard/45073/
properties, have difficulty with it or
requiring excessive computational
resources.
Soft robot control
Soft robots can be controlled by various means, such as embedded traditional control using a CPU, artificial
intelligence (AI) and machine learning
(ML). AI/ML can also be used to process data from sensors to manage the
control of soft robots, enabling autonomous and adaptive behaviours.
Integrated sensing and feedback
loops using soft, stretchable sensors
enable soft robots to perceive their
own shape by detecting pressure and
touch. Microfluidics is also used to
produce simple, repetitive motions,
but not complex decision making
and control as with a CPU and AI.
Traditional control systems are well
known, so we will just discuss microfluidic controls in detail. Here are
some examples:
Conventional computing platforms,
such as Arduinos, can be converted
into stretchable, compliant controllers by embedding them in flexible
carriers with highly stretchable conductors, as demonstrated by researchers at the Yale University Faboratory
(see Fig.11).
The team created stretchable
versions of Arduino Pro Mini boards
that function at over 300% strain,
embedding them directly into soft
robots for locomotion control and
wearables for motion sensing.
The conductors are made from
biphasic gallium-indium alloys, particularly oxidised gallium-indium
(OGaIn), a foam of amorphous gallium
oxide particles mixed with EGaIn. It
was patterned on or within silicone
substrates for high conductivity,
extreme stretchability and reliable
interfaces with rigid components.
For more on this, see the video at
https://youtu.be/VgNwUPpOY9A We
also looked at flexible electronics in
our November 2015 issue.
Microfluidics; the main purpose
of microfluidics in soft robotics is to
enable autonomous, electronics-free
(or minimal-electronics) control of
soft robotic systems, particularly for
untethered and lightweight designs.
Microfluidics involves routing small
volumes of fluids (gases or liquids)
through tiny embedded channels and
valves within the soft robot’s body.
These channels form fluidic logic circuits, analogous to electronic circuits
that can perform basic computation
(eg, AND/OR/NOT gates, oscillators,
timers) using pressure differences
instead of electricity.
Fig.11: an Arduino microcontroller module with the components mounted on a
stretchable substrate with flexible conductors. Source: https://engineering.yale.
edu/news-and-events/news/flexible-electronics-stretching-possibilities-softrobots
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Microfluidic controllers contain
components like pumps, fluid logic
gates analogous to transistors, oscillators, shift registers, multiplexers and
fluidic amplifiers.
Microfluidics is good for generating rhythmic or sequential motion,
reducing weight and complexity. It
also enables some degree of untethered
autonomy because the fluidic controllers can be powered by onboard chemical reactions or stored pressurised
gas, allowing operation in environments where electronics would fail
(eg, underwater, in MRI machines or
explosive areas).
Also, distributed control is possible
as pressure signals propagate through
the body like nerves, enabling coordinated multi-limb movement without
a central processor.
Microfluidic logic excels at simple,
repetitive tasks (eg, walking gaits,
pulsing, or basic sensing feedback)
but not complex tasks. It is therefore
most valuable in minimalist untethered robots or as a low-level controller
complemented by higher-level electronics in hybrid designs.
It serves as the brain and nervous
system for the simplest fully soft,
autonomous robots, trading computational power for lightness, robustness and independence from external
power/control tethers.
An example of a microfluidic controller is the one used in the Octobot
(Fig.12; described in more detail later).
Its controller (Fig.13) is basically an
oscillator circuit.
It was created using soft lithography,
in which PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) is poured into moulds with etched
channels. The polymer was cured and
solidified, with multiple layers being
precisely aligned and bonded to form
July 2026 17
Fig.14: in a Quake valve, the control
air can deform the flexible membrane
and block the flow of the process fluid.
Fig.15: a pneumatic ring oscillator.
Source: https://is.mpg.de/
publications/preston19-scir-oscillator
Fig.16: the Squishy Robotics mobile robot. Source: https://squishy-robotics.com/
research-and-development/
the fluidic valves, channels and oscillator network.
The Quake valve, invented by Stephen Quake and collaborators in 2000,
is a widely used pneumatic microfluidic valve in soft robotics and lab-ona-chip devices. It typically consists of
multi-layer soft elastomer structures
with two crossing channels: a flow
channel (for the main fluid/gas) and
a perpendicular control channel (for
pressurised air) – see Fig.14.
When pressure is applied to the control channel, a thin elastomeric membrane between the channels deflects
and pinches off the flow channel,
closing the valve (acting like a transistor for fluid flow). Releasing pressure
opens it again.
This design can be used to make
fluidic logic gates (AND, OR, NOT,
oscillators etc) by combining multiple
valves, enabling complex control without electronics, a key for untethered
soft robots It is scalable (thousands
can be integrated on one chip), has a
fast response time and is compatible
with pneumatic actuators.
A disadvantage is that it is limited
to low flow rates, so it is often better
for microscale or control signals rather
than high-force actuation.
Microfluidic pumps are used to
pump fluids around the microfluidic
chip and through devices like the
Quake valve shown in Fig.14.
Each tube is activated in sequence
to push fluid along in a peristaltic
fashion.
Microfluidic ring oscillators are
pneumatic (or hydraulic) devices that
offer a clever way to generate periodic
motion in soft robots without any electronic control – see Fig.15.
A ring oscillator consists of an odd
number (typically three or five) of
pneumatic inverters, which are fluidic
valves made from deformable elastomeric membranes that function like
inverting logic gates with hysteresis,
similar to a Schmitt trigger inverter.
When connected in a closed loop,
pressure builds sequentially in each
stage, causing the inverters to switch
between on and off states.
This creates a self-sustaining oscillation that can drive rhythmic movements, such as the coordinated leg
motion in multi-legged crawling
robots.
These fully soft oscillators enable
truly untethered operation, as demonstrated in some autonomous soft
walkers such as the UC San Diego
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soft-legged walking robot described
later and shown in Fig.19.
Advantages of soft robots
The advantages include:
• Superior safety in human-robot
interaction due to compliant, deformable bodies, making them inherently
safe for close collaboration with people (eg, in factories or assistive wearables).
• Adaptability to unstructured
environments, being able to squeeze
through narrow gaps, navigate irregular terrain or handle objects of varying shapes and fragility without precise programming or complex sensors.
• Biomimicry and natural movement; some soft robots replicate biological systems (octopus tentacles,
elephant trunks, worms), enabling
smooth, energy-efficient, and fluid
motion that rigid robots struggle to
achieve.
• Robustness to impacts and overload; compliant materials distribute
forces, allowing them to survive drops,
collisions or compression (eg, Squishy
Robotics’ airdropped platforms).
• They are lightweight and potentially low-cost because many use
inexpensive elastomers and simple
siliconchip.com.au
fabrication methods (3D printing,
moulding), reducing overall system
weight and enabling untethered operation in some cases.
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/17782).
It produced the ReStore Exo-Suit,
designed to promote the redevelopment of correct gait patterns in people
who have suffered a stroke or similar
Disadvantages of soft robots
neurological injury.
The disadvantages include:
It is a lightweight, cable-driven soft
• Limited force and precision; soft robotic device that provides timed
materials generally produce lower assistive forces to a partially paralysed
forces and less precise positioning ankle and is commercially used in
compared to rigid actuators and metal rehabilitation clinics. It uses Bowden
linkages, making them unsuitable for cables (like bicycle brake cables)
heavy lifting or high-accuracy tasks.
pulled by motors in a waist-mounted
• Durability and fatigue; repeated unit. For more details, see the video at
deformation causes material fatigue, https://youtu.be/1pC3fUGOdFw
wear, tearing or degradation over time,
Somnox (https://somnox.com) is
especially under high strains or cyclic a pillow-like robot that simulates
loading.
breathing patterns to help with sleep
• Complex modelling and control; disorders. It is pneumatically opertheir nonlinear, infinite-degree-of- ated. According to the manufacturer,
freedom deformation makes accurate “Somnox detects and matches your
modelling, simulation and precise breathing rate and rhythm; then, the
control difficult.
rhythm gradually slows to a tranquil,
• Power and actuation challenges; sleep-inducing pace”.
many rely on bulky external compressors (for pneumatics/hydraulics) or
Rescue robots
high voltages (for dielectric elastoSquishy Robotics (https://
mers), limiting true untethered perfor- squishy-robotics.com) produces both
mance. Onboard chemical or battery a commercial stationary soft robot and
solutions are still emerging.
a developmental mobile one, shown
• Manufacturing and scalabil- in Fig.16. The stationary robots can be
ity; while prototyping is relatively deployed from aircraft to be dropped
easy, producing durable, repeatable, into disaster areas from 300m and can
high-performance soft robots at scale carry a variety of payloads such as gas
remains challenging and expensive
sensors for CO, H2S, lower explosive
compared to conventional robotics.
limit of gas and O2, cameras for 360°
video, GPS and mesh networking.
Commercial applications
The structural concept is tensegrity
(tension and integrity), which uses a
network of rigid struts in compression and elastic cables in tension to
create compliant, lightweight robots
that are deformable and can absorb
impacts such as being dropped from
an aircraft.
The developmental mobile robot
moves via the concept of paired cable
actuators, where one cable pulls and
the other pushes like pairs of muscles
work in opposition. In these robots,
there are multiple sets of paired actuators acting in a coordinated way to
propel the robot, as shown in the video
at https://youtu.be/oDaLb63iCPI
Soft grippers and food handling
Schmalz Group (www.schmalz.
com) produces the mGrip range of
pneumatically powered soft robotic
grippers for picking up fragile items
like produce, baked goods and poultry without damage (see Fig.17). The
grippers are activated by air channels inside the ‘fingers’. They are an
example of a soft robotic component
attached to a traditional rigid robot.
The Festo HPSX (https://press.festo.
com/en/node/5135) silicone gripper is
a soft robot component for high-speed
picking up of delicate products such
as various foods – see Fig.18. It can
work safely in human-robot collaborative environments with low risk to
humans. It is pneumatically operated.
Soft robots excel where safety,
adaptability and gentle interaction
are priorities, such as in medical
devices, food handling or exploration. Still, they lag behind rigid robots
in strength, precision and long-term
reliability.
Most practical applications today
use hybrid approaches, combining
soft elements for interaction with rigid
frameworks for power and control.
Here are some examples.
Healthcare and emotional support
Moflin from Casio (www.casio.com/
us/moflin) is an AI fluffy companion
for emotional support that develops
personality traits. It is regarded as a
soft robot by some, but while its exterior is soft and fluffy, its interior is
standard mechatronics.
ReWalk Robotics (now Lifeward)
produced the walking assistance exoskeleton described in our article on
prosthetic limbs in the March 2025
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.17: the mGrip soft robotic gripper.
Source: Schmalz – siliconchip.au/
link/acaw
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.18: the Festo HPSX silicone soft
robot gripper.
July 2026 19
iCobots (https://icobots.com) is an
Israeli company providing plug-andplay soft robotic grippers that integrate
seamlessly with existing industrial
robots and cobots. A cobot is a collaborative robot designed to work alongside people rather than replace them.
These grippers combine the speed
of automation with the gentle, adaptive touch of human hands, making
them ideal for handling delicate items
such as eggs, fruit, chocolate and other
fragile produce without damage or the
need for complex vision systems.
Wearable and assistive devices
NEO from 1X Technologies (www.
1x.tech/neo) is a domestic humanoid robot with a soft-bodied design,
launched in late 2025 and now available for pre-order. It is intended for
everyday household tasks and uses
biology-inspired tendon-driven actuation (with high-torque-density motors)
for smooth, compliant and safe interactions with people.
Conceptual soft robots
(experimental)
Apart from commercial soft robots,
many have been designed or are being
researched as in the following:
• In 2016, the Wyss Institute at
Harvard University unveiled the first
entirely soft autonomous robot, called
Octobot. It was electronics-free, mostly
3D printed and used microfluidic logic
oscillator circuits for control. It used
hydrogen peroxide as fuel, which
generated gas to drive the robot – see
Fig.12 and the video at https://vimeo.
com/179510230
• Stanford University has developed an “isoperimetric” soft robot in
the form of an inflatable tube truss
with relocatable joints which enable
it to change shape due to changes in
the length of individual truss members and move or perform other tasks
(siliconchip.au/link/acap). The joints
are moved by roller modules that create new joints by pinching the tube at
different locations. See the video at
https://youtu.be/XqgbLb8m77U
• Researchers at UC San Diego have
developed an electronics-free softlegged walking robot (Fig.19). It is
powered by pressurised air and has no
electronics. Its movement is controlled
by pneumatic ring oscillator fluidic
control circuits to generate rhythmic
movement, similar to animals.
The robot was also equipped with
simple sensors in the form of bubbles
of fluid at the end of the legs which,
when depressed, flip a valve and
cause the robot to change direction
in response to environmental interactions. The biological inspiration for
this machine comes from the African
sideneck turtle. For more, see the video
at https://youtu.be/bnT6BBkDYlc
• Researchers at the University of
California, San Diego, have developed an electronics-free autonomous
walking robot with an embedded
pneumatic oscillating control circuit.
After 3D-printing the six-legged robot,
shown in Figs.20 & 21, is ready to
operate as soon as a gas supply (CO2
cylinder, tube and pressure regulator)
is added.
It uses a 3D-printable four-phase
bistable oscillating valve, capable of
generating coordinated motion of multiple limbs from a steady source of gas.
Each of the six legs has four chambers,
each of which generates one of up,
down, forward or backward motion.
See the videos at https://youtu.be/
f8hTK7AabM8 and https://youtu.be/
PDoiguTdLXs
• SoFi is a soft robotic fish developed by MIT’s CSAIL in 2018. It is a
remote-controlled underwater robot
equipped with a camera to observe
marine life without disturbing it. A
diver directs it from a console (using
acoustic signals) while hydraulic fluidic actuators in the tail mimic natural
fish swimming. See Fig.22 and the videos at https://youtu.be/BSA_zb1ajes
and https://youtu.be/Dy5ZETdaC9k
• In recent years, Chinese researchers have pioneered soft robots for
exploring the Mariana Trench, the
ocean’s deepest point. Unlike traditional submersibles made of expensive
Fig.20: a six-legged walking robot
that needs no electronics; just a CO2
canister. Source: UC San Diego –
siliconchip.au/link/acax
Fig.19: the soft-legged walking robot from UC San Diego. Source: https://
newatlas.com/robotics/air-powered-robot-no-electronics-turtle/
20
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.21: the embedded pneumatic
oscillating control circuit of the robot
shown in Fig.20.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.22: a SoFi robotic fish. Source:
MIT News – siliconchip.au/link/acay
Fig.23: Zhejiang University’s 2021 robot compared to a snailfish. Source: www.
zju.edu.cn/english/2021/0317/c65148a2268191/page.psp
hard metal shells to resist the extreme
pressures at depth, these robots are
soft, and external pressure is distributed evenly throughout them, just as
in the fish they mimic.
A landmark 2021 design from Zhejiang University mimicked the hadal
snailfish, using a silicone body (22cm
long with a 28cm fin span) and dielectric elastomer actuators for a flapping
motion. It reached a depth of 10,900m,
a world record for a soft robot – see
Fig.23.
Building on this, a 2025 robot from
Beihang University (inspired by batfish locomotion) reached 10,666m,
enduring 1100 bar. This larger version
(50cm long and weighing 2.7 kg) uses
shape-memory alloy actuators that
oscillate with periodic heating for multimodal movement of swimming, gliding and crawling across the seafloor.
• The DARPA ChemBot (Chemical
Robots) program was a research initiative launched around 2007-2008 to
develop soft, flexible, shape-shifting
robots capable of squeezing through
tiny openings (smaller than their normal size), reconstituting their shape
and regaining function on the other
side, to perform tasks like reconnaissance or payload delivery in denied/
hostile environments.
The research program finished in
2011-2012 with no further announcements.
• The Amphibious Robotic Turtle (ART), developed by Yale University researchers (Figs.24 & 25) is
a bio-
inspired soft robotic platform
with a solid body but soft robotic legs
that employs ‘adaptive morphogenesis’ to dynamically adapt its limbs for
multi-environment locomotion.
Its cylindrical legs can morph into
flattened flippers for efficient swimming in water, mimicking sea turtles
while reverting to load-bearing legs for
land travel like tortoises. This transformation takes 1-2 minutes and is
achieved using a thermally responsive
polymer composite that softens when
heated (via embedded heaters) and stiffens when cooled to hold the new shape.
An internal soft pneumatic ‘muscle’ (balloon-like structure) inflates
or deflates to drive the shape change
during the malleable phase, enabling
seamless transitions between terrestrial gaits (creep/crawl) and aquatic
propulsion (flapping/paddling).
• A survivable amputation of a
body part to escape danger is a survival
strategy used by certain lower animals
like lizards, starfish and crabs. A soft
robot has been developed at Yale University to do the same thing. For example, if the leg of a search and rescue
robot gets trapped by falling debris, a
built-in heating element can melt it
away. See the video at https://youtu.
be/qPd9x9-bALo
• Harvard University’s Whitesides
Research Group has developed the
“arthrobot”, with an exoskeleton constructed from thin polymeric tubes. It
also has pneumatic joints modelled
after the hydrostatic joints of spiders
to provide actuation and mechanical compliance to external forces. An
inflatable elastomeric tube extends a
Figs.24 & 25: an amphibious robotic turtle. Source: https://yaledailynews.com/blog/2022/10/25/yale-led-team-developsshape-shifting-turtle-robot/
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 21
Fig.26: Harvard University’s
Whitesides Research Group arthrobot.
Source: www.gmwgroup.harvard.
edu/soft-robotics
limb while an opposing elastic tendon
retracts it – see Fig.26.
Experimental grippers
• The Festo Bionic Learning Network Octopus Gripper uses pneumatic
tentacles and vacuum suction to hold
objects of any shape. It is currently
not a commercial product, but aspects
of its technology have been incorporated into other Festo products. See
Fig.27 and the video at https://youtu.
be/w1zU7FNKm_w
• The University of California,
San Diego (UCSD) has developed a
3D-printed (in one print) gripper that
has an embedded microfluidic controller and needs no electronics to
operate. When the gripper is moved
horizontally, it drops the object. See
Fig.28: the UCSD no-electronics
gripper. Source: Iguana Robot –
siliconchip.au/link/acaz
22
Silicon Chip
Fig.27: the Festo Octopus Gripper, also known as the TentacleGripper. Source:
www.festo.com/gb/en/e/about-festo/research-and-development/bioniclearning-network/bionic-grippers-and-soft-robots/tentaclegripper-id_33321/
Fig.28 and the video at https://youtu.
be/A5mpy3X1dcc
• A granular jammer is a soft robotics gripper concept where grains or
grain-like materials are placed inside
a membrane, such as a balloon. It is
placed around an irregularly shaped
object and then a vacuum is applied
to tighten the grip. The object can then
be moved – see Fig.29.
• The Jamming Donut is a universal
soft-robotics gripper designed by Australia’s CSIRO. This doughnut-shaped
gripper can grab round objects like
doorknobs.
• A team at the University of North
Carolina at Chapel Hill has developed
soft robots made of two layers, one simulating skin and the other muscle, that
can autonomously detect and respond
to different physiological stimuli.
The robot’s base layer is made from
a thermally responsive hydrogel that
can contract and relax like muscle,
allowing the robot to bend. The other
layer is an electronic ‘skin’ made of
another soft polymer, which can host
a variety of sensors or stimulators.
Such sensors can detect acidity,
electrical activity, mechanical strain
and temperature; mini electrodes
could stimulate tissue, while electrical heaters could trigger the robot’s
hydrogel ‘muscle’ layer to contract –
see Fig.30. Onboard electronics allow
for wireless power and data transmission.
Fig.29: a granular jammer or
“jamming gripper”. Source: www.
creativemachineslab.com/jamminggripper.html
Fig.30: sensors from an experimental
soft robot. Source: www.nibib.nih.gov/
news-events/newsroom/taking-cuesnature-medical-soft-robots-get-smart
Experimental medical
applications
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
(A)
(B)
(C)
Fig.33: the concept of Vine Robot’s
movement. It lengthens and doesn’t
slide, thus it has no problem getting
through small openings.
Fig.34: the principle of steering and extension of a vine robot. (a) Air pressure is
applied to the core. (b) the pressure causes extension. (c) differential pressure is
used for steering. Source: www.researchgate.net/publication/368389948
• Harvard University’s Wyss Institute has developed a soft-robotic
sleeve that uses pneumatic actuators
and wraps around a human heart to
assist its beating. As there is no direct
contact with blood, the patient does
not have to take blood thinners, as
with conventional artificial hearts or
ventricular assist devices. The device
is currently in advanced preclinical
testing stages – see Fig.31.
• Fig.32 shows a soft prosthetic
robotic hand for amputees or service
robots. It has the advantage of feeling
more like a normal human hand. It
was developed by Rob Scharff from
the Delft University of Technology.
• Researchers at AMOLF, a leading Dutch institute for fundamental
physics and soft matter, have developed a remarkable soft robotic artificial heart prototype that demonstrates
autonomous beating with minimal
electronics. Driven entirely by pneumatic pressure from an external pump,
the device uses advanced soft biomaterials and clever fluidic logic to produce a repetitive heartbeat.
A key innovation is a passive soft
valve inspired by the sputtering effect
when squeezing an almost-empty plastic sauce bottle. As pressure builds, a
soft tube buckles and rapidly opens/
closes, creating self-oscillating flow
that drives rhythmic contraction of the
heart without electronic controllers.
• The DARPA Soft Exosuit is a
wearable soft robot developed at the
Wyss Institute at Harvard University.
It works with the body’s muscles to
reduce fatigue and assist movement.
Cables and motors are used to apply
forces to hips and ankles, mimicking
tendons and muscles. It can be used in
applications such as assisting stroke
patients or soldiers. See the video at
https://youtu.be/aeDm5yFYt10
Experimental soft robots that
mimic plant tendrils
These robots grow and navigate by
extruding material or inflating tubes.
Examples include Vine Robots and
the FiloRobot.
Vine Robots from Stanford University and UCSB, Dr Elliot Hawkes
(www.vinerobots.org/about/) use soft
pressurised polyethylene tubes that
evert (turn inside out) to form a body
that can navigate numerous types of
obstacles, even a field of pointed nails
or glued-together boards – see Figs.33,
34, 35 & 36.
It does not slide; the body extends
and lengthens from the tip. That
means there is no friction between
Fig.31: the Harvard cardiac assistance device. It’s a sleeve
that wraps around the heart. Source: https://seas.
harvard.edu/news/2017/01/soft-robot-helpsheart-beat
Fig.32: a soft robotic
prosthetic had for
amputees or service robots.
Source: https://elveflow.com/
microfluidic-reviews/soft-robot/
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 23
– see Fig.38 and the video at https://
youtu.be/e1mOac3wRsw
Experimental photoresponsive soft robots
Fig.35. Vine Robot navigates through
a hole. Source: ExtremeTech –
siliconchip.au/link/acb0
Fig.36: Vine Robot navigates a maze.
Source: www.science.org/doi/10.1126/
scirobotics.aan3028
the external body of the robot and the
surfaces it contacts. It can reach up to
72m from its base.
Fig.34 shows the principle of
extending and steering a Vine Robot.
In (a), air pressure is applied to the
core. In (b), the air pressure causes
extension due to eversion of the tube.
The outside of the tube doesn’t move
with respect to the surface it contacts.
In (c), the end is steered by varying the
air pressure by applying air pressure
to one or two of the serial pneumatic
actuator muscles (sPAM) mounted
around the robot’s circumference at
the tip of the robot.
Guidance is through the use of an
inertial measurement unit (IMU) at the
tip and a shaft encoder at the base to
sense the amount of extension. There
is also a camera at the tip. For more
information, see the video at https://
youtu.be/q2Q-taHAo7Q
The Vine Robot is not commercially
available, but has inspired spinoffs
using the eversion technology and a
robotic gripper for industrial and elder
care used to assist in lifting objects or
people from beds; see Fig.37. Systems
are also being tested for the inspection
of commercial pipe networks.
There are instructions to build your
own Vine Robot at www.vinerobots.
org/build-one
Miniaturised 1.8mm-diameter versions are also being developed for
non-invasive surgeries and intubation – see https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.
gov/articles/PMC12370164/
Filobot from the Istituto Italiano di
Tecnologia (IIT) is an experimental
robot and is not strictly a soft robot,
but it bears some resemblance to the
Vine Robot.
It prints its own stem by 3D-printing
its own body from the tip as it ‘grows’
Fig.37: a Vine Robot inspired gripper from MIT. Source: https://news.mit.
edu/2025/vine-inspired-robotic-gripper-gently-lifts-heavy-and-fragileobjects-1210
24
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The Max Planck Institute in Germany has developed untethered soft
micro-robots that walk or roll toward/
away from light sources (phototaxis).
The Chinese Academy of Sciences
has developed near-infrared-driven
soft grippers for remote manipulation
in confined spaces.
Conclusion
Soft robots represent a shift toward
more organic, resilient machines,
with the potential to revolutionise
fields from healthcare to exploration,
although challenges remain.
More videos
If you’re interested in seeing more
about soft robots, then check out these
videos below:
“DIY a Food-Grade Soft Gripper for
Your Delta X S Robot for Just... $10”:
https://youtu.be/Eo3y-UqJ100
“DIY Soft Robotic Tentacle”:
https://youtu.be/gPYjo-W2ctU
“Can You 3D Print a Robot’s Brain
Out of Air?”:
https://youtu.be/Cn7jC6YamGE
“I Printed a Microchip That Runs on
Air — A Nervous System for Squishy
Robots!’:
https://youtu.be/QJdBp5dGrww SC
Fig.38: FiloBot climbs a tree. Credit:
Del Dottore et al., Sci. Robot. 9,
eadi5908 (2024)
siliconchip.com.au
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Prices shown in $AUD and correct at time of publication but are subject to change.
Jaycar reserves the right to change prices if and when required.
Part 1 by John Clarke
Background source: https://unsplash.com/photos/a-person-in-yellowgloves-and-blue-gloves-cleaning-a-floor--dc38HdQR1M
Ultrasonic Cleaner
adjustable
This 40W Ultrasonic Cleaner is fully adjustable for frequency, power and duration.
You can also select the shape and size of the cleaning container you use. It’s
powered from a 12-15V DC supply.
Ultrasonic Cleaner Controller is ideal reach the small apertures that are usuFor more delicate parts, the power
Tlery,hisforornaments,
cleaning items such as jewel- ally the most important areas to clean. can be reduced to prevent damage to
mechanical parts and
An ultrasonic cleaner makes this the items being cleaned.
small areas of delicate fabrics.
Cleaning fuel injectors, a carburettor, or any other intricate parts is
a messy and time-consuming task,
requiring soaking them in harsh solvents such as petrol, kerosene, or
degreaser and then scrubbing them
with various brushes. It is a difficult
and tedious task and often does not
task so much easier. Just place the
components in a solvent bath, press
a button, then come back later to
remove the parts in sparkling clean
condition. It will even clean internal
areas! It uses a high-power piezoelectric transducer and an ultrasonic
driver to release the dirt and grime
with ultrasonic energy.
Fig.1: in the ultrasonic transducer we’re using, two
piezoelectric (ceramic) discs are sandwiched between the
two halves of the body, with electrodes to allow a voltage
to be applied across the piezo elements. The compression
of the piezoceramics due to the tension from the bolt
holding the whole thing together is critical to prevent
early failure from the ultrasonic vibrations.
28
Silicon Chip
Our previous High Power Ultrasonic
Cleaner in September and October
2020 (siliconchip.au/Series/350) was
an automatic unit that found the transducer resonance itself.
Manual operation was possible, but
it wasn’t as easy as this latest offering.
Because this one has adjustable power
and doesn’t rely on automatically
Fig.2: the frequency vs power curve for the transducer.
Most transducers with a nominal 40kHz resonance
should be similar, but the exact frequency of the peak
will vary, as will the steepness of the slopes. Hence, our
Cleaner allows you to adjust the frequency to find the
peak, from 33.683kHz to 46.859kHz.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Features
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Background source: https://unsplash.com/photos/frostedwater-with-bubbles-_LHf-WzBYpo
Ultrasonic cleaning at up to 40W
Screen shows frequency, span, timer, voltage and wattage
Manual frequency control
Timer from seven seconds to 30 minutes
Operates from 12-15V DC at up to 4A
Reverse supply polarity protection
Over current protection
Ultrasonic standing wave minimisation
Can use a variety of cleaning bowl sizes and shapes from 2.5L to 4L
Specifications
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Frequency reading: 1Hz resolution, ±3% at 25°C
Frequency adjustment: 16 spans from 33.683kHz to 46.859kHz (see Table 1)
Fine frequency adjustment in 128 steps of about 37Hz (for Span 0) to 44.5Hz (for Span F)
Voltage supplied to T1’s primary: from 1.23V to 1.4V below the input supply, displayed with
a 100mV resolution
Power readings: 1W resolution
Current power limiting: 3.3A (40W with 12V at the transformer primary)
Power delivery to 2L of water: 32W with a 12V supply, 39W with a 13.8V supply
Timer: seven seconds to 30 minutes in approximately seven second steps
Standing wave reduction: ultrasonic drive is switched off every 14s for about 1ms with
variation to ensure a near 180° phase change each time.
finding the resonant frequency, it’s less
fiddly to get up and running.
As a bonus, this latest Ultrasonic
Cleaner Controller provides much
more information than the previous version by having a two-line,
16-
c olumn liquid crystal display
(LCD) screen to convey useful readings, allowing for an easy setup.
How does it work?
A metal container is filled with a solvent, de-ionised water, or normal hot
water with a detergent or wetting agent.
The ultrasonic transducer agitates the
contents of the bath. At higher power
levels, the ultrasonic wavefront causes
cavitation, creating bubbles which
then collapse, as shown in Fig.3.
As the wavefront passes, normal
pressure is restored and the bubble collapses to produce a shockwave. This
shockwave helps to loosen particles
from the item being cleaned (Fig.4).
The size of the bubbles depends on the
ultrasonic frequency; they are smaller
with higher frequencies.
We are using the commonly available bolt-clamped Langevin ultrasonic
transducer, depicted in Fig.1. It comprises piezoelectric discs sandwiched
between metal electrodes.
siliconchip.com.au
The central bolt not only holds the
assembly together, but is critical in
ensuring the piezo elements are not
damaged when being driven. The bolt
is torqued to a predetermined tension
and locked (thread glued) in place to
prevent it loosening.
The bolt tension ensures the piezo
discs always remain in compression
even while they are operating, preventing the discs from breaking apart.
When a voltage is applied to the piezoelectric discs, forces are generated by
the piezo elements that move the two
metal ends closer together and then
further apart at the ultrasonic drive
rate.
Our Ultrasonic Cleaner drives the
piezo transducer at close to its nominal 40kHz resonant frequency. Fig.2
shows the power applied versus frequency for the particular ultrasonic
transducer we are using. It claims to
have a resonant frequency of 40kHz
±1kHz. When under load, resonance
is lower; we found that resonance
dropped by a couple of kilohertz.
The transducer drive frequency
needs to be adjusted to produce the
required power level. A small change
in frequency from the resonant point
will reduce the power quite markedly.
Australia's electronics magazine
Figs.3 & 4: the sound waves produced
by the Ultrasonic Cleaner rapidly
create and destroy bubbles in the
liquid. When they collapse, they
generate localised shockwaves. This
‘cavitation’ stirs up the solvent layer
that’s in contact with the dirt, grease
and grime, helping to break it up
and more rapidly dissolve it away.
You can do this by hand – it’s called
scrubbing – but it’s a tedious job, and
it’s hard to get into nooks, crannies
and internal spaces in the parts being
cleaned!
July 2026 29
The Adjustable
Ultrasonic
Cleaner is built
using two PCBs;
the Main Board
shown at left, and
the Control Panel
Board below.
Switches S1-S3 have a
coloured marker near
their cathode pin.
Image Source: Jaycar
Additionally, the transducer
impedance varies depending on
the load. So when operating in
free air, the impedance is much
lower compared to when the
transducer is driving a bath full
of cleaning fluid.
Another factor affecting the
power delivered is the voltage applied
to the ultrasonic transducer’s driver
transformer. Higher voltages produce
a higher power output.
Presentation
The Ultrasonic Cleaner controller
fits in a diecast aluminium enclosure
with three knobs, three pushbutton
switches, a power switch and the
LCD screen.
Two knobs are for the timer setting
and the frequency adjustment. Pushbutton switches are for changing the
frequency span selection up and down
to select between 16 options, and the
start/stop of ultrasonic drive.
The 16 spans allow the frequency
to be adjusted between 36.140kHz
to 46.859kHz. The frequency knob
allows for finer frequency adjustment
within the range of each span. Below
one minute, the timeout is shown in
seconds, while above one minute, the
timeout is shown in minutes and decimal minutes in 0.1m steps.
The third adjustment knob is for
the voltage applied to the transformer
that drives the ultrasonic transducer. It
can be adjusted from 1.23V to around
11-12V depending on the input voltage. This allows the ultrasonic power
delivery to be adjusted. This control is
labelled as ‘Power’ since that’s what
it affects.
The transformer voltage and delivered power are shown on the LCD
30
Silicon Chip
screen, along with the frequency, span
and timeout.
Circuit details
The Ultrasonic Cleaner circuit is
shown in Fig.5. It is based around
a PIC16F1459 microcontroller (IC1)
that controls the two Mosfets (Q1 &
Q2) driving the primary windings of
transformer T1 in an alternating fashion. T1 produces a stepped-up voltage
of around 150V AC (RMS) to drive the
ultrasonic transducer.
IC1 also drives the LCD screen, monitors the Timer potentiometer (VR2),
Frequency potentiometer (VR3) and
switches S1-S3. At the same time, it
measures the current flowing through
Mosfets Q1 and Q2 at its AN3 analog
input (pin 3) via amplifier IC2b and
the voltage applied to the transformer
(T1) at its pin 8 analog input (AN8) via
a voltage divider.
IC1 is powered from REG1, a 5V regulator that is supplied input voltage
via diode D1, which provides reverse
polarity protection.
Adjustable transformer
supply
REG2 is an LM2576 adjustable regulator. It is supplied with 12-15V from
CON1 via power switch S4 and 4A fuse
F1. Diode D3 provides reverse polarity
protection by conducting if the supply
voltage goes negative. The fuse then
blows, preventing damage to REG2.
Australia's electronics magazine
The LM2576 is a switch-mode stepdown regulator. It has an internal transistor that switches on to charge inductor L1 via the load and output capacitors. When it switches off, diode D2
provides a path for the inductor current to continue to flow to the load.
The duty cycle of the internal transistor being on compared to being off
determines the output voltage.
Feedback is applied to pin 4 of
REG2, and the duty cycle is adjusted
by the regulator to maintain 1.23V at
this pin. The output voltage can thus
be adjusted by varying the resistance
of the top divider resistance, which
includes 100kW potentiometer VR1.
Ideally, a 50kW potentiometer should
be used, but 100kW potentiometers are
more common, so we shunt it with a
100kW fixed resistor.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the complete Cleaner circuit diagram. Microcontroller
IC1 drives Mosfets Q1 & Q2 alternately, causing an AC
current to flow in T1’s primary. T1 steps up the voltage in the
primary to around 150V AC in the secondary for driving the transducer at
40W. REG2 allows the primary voltage to be adjusted, controlling the output
power, while op amp IC2b helps to provide current monitoring feedback and
IC2a allows IC1 to reduce REG2’s output to prevent overload.
That fixed resistor should be omitted if a 50kW potentiometer is used.
A 22kW resistor connects to the
divider from IC2a’s output; this op amp
buffers the analog output from pin 7
of IC1. This allows IC1 to control the
output voltage to some extent, limiting power to the ultrasonic transducer.
More on this later.
REG2’s output provides voltage to
transformer T1’s primary winding.
Two 1000μF 25V low-ESR capacitors
are used to provide storage of voltage
from the switch-mode supply and
maintain a low source output for the
siliconchip.com.au
transformer. These capacitors also
smooth the supply ripple from REG2.
REG2’s output can’t go as high as
its input; there is a voltage drop of
about 1.4V. So a 12V output cannot be
produced if the input voltage is 12V.
Typically, the maximum output voltage with a 12V input is 10.6V at 3A.
Similarly, with a 13.8V input, a maximum of 12.4V can be produced at 3A.
Transformer driving
A complementary waveform generator within IC1 is used to drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2 in push-pull mode. The
Australia's electronics magazine
transformer (T1) is centre-tapped to
allow this type of drive, with the supply from REG2 applied to the centre
tap. IC1’s pulse-width modulation
(PWM) generator includes an adjustable dead time, allowing time for one
Mosfet to switch off before the other
Mosfet switches on.
IC1’s RC5 and RC4 digital outputs
provide the complementary gate drive
signals for Mosfets Q1 & Q2. Since
these outputs only swing from 0V to
5V, we are using logic-level Mosfets.
Standard Mosfets require gate signals
of at least 10V for full conduction, but
July 2026 31
logic-level Mosfets will typically conduct fully at 4.5V, or sometimes at even
lower voltages.
With the IPP80N06S4L-07 Mosfets
we are using, the typical on-resistance
(between drain and source) is 7.9mW at
40A with a 4.5V gate voltage. They are
rated at 80A continuous and include
over-voltage transient protection that
clamps the drain-to-source voltage
at 60V.
Mosfets Q1 & Q2 are driven alternately and these drive the separate
halves of the transformer primary of
T1, which has its centre tap connected
to the adjustable supply.
When Mosfet Q1 is switched on,
its drain goes low (to 0V and current
flows in its section of the transformer
primary winding. Q1 remains on for
less than 12.5μs (assuming a 40kHz
operating frequency) and is then
switched off.
Both Mosfets are off for two microseconds before Q2 is switched on. Q2
then draws current through its section of the T1 primary winding and
remains on for the same duration
as for Q1. Both Mosfets remain off
again for 2μs before Q1 is switched
on again.
The gap when both Mosfets are
off is the dead time, which allows
for the fact that they don’t switch off
immediately when their gates reach
0V (discharging the gate capacitance
also takes time).
Scope 1 shows the gate drives to Q1
(top yellow trace) and Q2 at the lower
cyan trace when running at 40kHz. The
two Mosfets are each off during the 2μs
dead time period and switched on for
around 10.2μs. The vertical cursors
indicate the dead time.
Without dead time, the two Mosfets
would both be on together for a short
duration. This would cause massive
short-circuit current spikes, overheating the Mosfets and also drawing
large current spikes from the supply
filter capacitor and DC power supply. The inductance and resistance of
the transformer primary would limit
this to some extent, but it’s still best
to avoid it.
The alternate switching action of
the Mosfets generates an AC square
wave in the secondary winding of
transformer T1. With a turns ratio of
12.8:1 (assuming a 90-turn secondary
and 7-turn primary) and 12V DC at
the primary, the secondary winding
delivers about 150V to the ultrasonic
transducer.
The waveform applied to the ultrasonic transducer is shown in Scope 2,
with 12V at the transformer primary
and 35W delivered to the transducer,
both values shown on the LCD screen.
The voltage applied to the ultrasonic
transducer shown in the yellow trace
is around 150V peak (on average; it
varies a bit).
The cyan trace is the measured current scaled by 1.4V/A. So the 4.07V
current reading value equates to 2.9A.
Table 1: Typical frequency range adjustment within each span
Span #
Centre frequency
Minimum
Maximum
0
36.140kHz
33.683kHz
38.409kHz
1
36.580kHz
34.123kHz
38.665kHz
2
37.040kHz
34.520kHz
39.177kHz
3
37.500kHz
34.980kHz
39.689kHz
4
37.970kHz
35.387kHz
40.458kHz
5
38.460kHz
35.877kHz
40.970kHz
6
38.960kHz
36.314kHz
41.482kHz
7
39.470kHz
36.761kHz
41.994kHz
8
40.000kHz
37.291kHz
42.506kHz
9
40.500kHz
37.728kHz
43.018kHz
A
41.138kHz
38.366kHz
43.530kHz
B
41.660kHz
38.825kHz
44.299kHz
C
42.250kHz
39.415kHz
45.067kHz
D
42.860kHz
39.962kHz
45.579kHz
E
43.418kHz
40.520kHz
46.091kHz
F
44.117kHz
41.156kHz
46.859kHz
32
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
With 12V at the primary of the transformer, the power is 34.9W (2.9A ×
12V).
Standing waves
Running the Ultrasonic Cleaner at a
constant frequency near resonance is
efficient, since the impedance of the
transducer is almost purely resistive
under those conditions. However, this
is not ideal for minimising standing
waves within the cleaning bath. Standing waves can build in strength while
the frequency remains constant.
These waves are caused by reflections from the parts being cleaned
and the tank walls being in phase.
This can damage delicate parts. To
avoid standing waves, the drive is
stopped every 14s for about 1ms with
variation to ensure a near-180° phase
change each time. This out-of-phase
change attempts to calm the standing waves.
Additionally, our Ultrasonic Cleaner
Controller can reduce the power so it
can be used with delicate parts and
parts that have delicate sections within
them, especially thin-walled cavities. The power is reduced by lowering the voltage applied to the driver
transformer.
Over-current protection
Overcurrent protection for the Mosfets is provided in two ways. Both rely
on current detection via the voltage
across the 0.1W resistors between the
sources of Q1 and Q2 and ground. The
first method uses NPN transistors Q3
and Q4. These have their base-emitter
junctions connected across those 0.1W
current-sense resistors.
The protection starts when the voltage across the 0.1W resistor exceeds
about 0.5V, ie, more than 5A through
either Q1 or Q2. The associated transistor Q3 or Q4 then begins to conduct.
The current flowing from its collector
to its emitter reduces the gate voltage
of the associated Mosfet, effectively
increasing its on-resistance, which
then reduces the current.
This protection is a fast-acting,
cycle-by-cycle measure.
At the same time, the voltages across
the two 0.1W current-sense resistors
are averaged by a pair of 10kW resistors and filtered by a 100nF capacitor.
This averaged voltage is then applied
to the non-inverting pin 5 input of op
amp IC2, which amplifies the signal
28 times (27kW ÷ 1kW + 1).
siliconchip.com.au
The averaging effectively halves
the sensed voltage, so this results in
an overall amplification of 14 times,
meaning that pin 7 of IC2b produces
1.4V per amp. This is measured by
the AN3 analog input of IC1 (pin 3)
and is converted to a digital value and
processed by IC1. Should this voltage
reach 4.9V or more, the drive to the
transducer is switched off.
4.9V represents a 3.5A average current flow (4.9V ÷ 1.4V/A). This voltage
can also be measured at the TP CURRENT test point.
An overcurrent error is indicated
as “OVR” on the LCD screen. When
this happens, OVR will momentarily
be displayed and the voltage reading
will drop to reduce the current. With
reduced current, the overload indication will cease as the voltage returns
to its original setting.
However, if the overload still exists,
OVR will show again and the drop in
voltage will be repeated. The OVR
display will occur around once per
second. To prevent this, the voltage/
power pot will need to be rotated
anti-clockwise, and the frequency will
then need to be adjusted to be closer
to resonance.
There is also a warning displayed
if there is no voltage supply to transformer T1. This could be due to a
blown fuse (F1). The display shows
“FUSE NO V”, although there could
be other reasons for the lack of voltage, such as an incorrectly wound
transformer, a short circuit, or a supply break.
Power limit control
The current measured at the AN3
input is also used for controlling
the maximum power applied to the
ultrasonic transducer. The maximum
power rating of the transducer is 50W,
but this is not a continuous rating; the
recommended continuous power is
43W. We limit power by reducing the
voltage applied to T1 when the current
reaches 3.3A.
This equates to almost 40W (39.6W)
when there is 12V applied to the transformer.
The analog DAC output from pin 7 of
IC1 is normally set to the same 1.23V as
is at the pin 4 feedback input of REG2.
With that voltage, the 22kW resistor
from IC2a’s output has no effect on
the regulator voltage as it has the same
voltage at each end of the resistor, so
no current flows.
siliconchip.com.au
Scope 1: the
yellow trace
shows the gate
drives to Q1, while
the cyan trace
shows Q2, both
being driven at
40kHz.
Scope 2: the
yellow trace
shows the
voltage applied
to the ultrasonic
transducer, while
the cyan trace
is the measured
current scaled at
1.4V/A.
However, if IC1 detects that the
transducer current rises above 3.3A,
IC1 increases the analog output from
pin 7 of IC1, causing current to flow
through the 22kW resistor, raising the
voltage across the 5.1kW resistor. The
regulator compensates for this extra
voltage at the 5.1kW resistor by reducing its output voltage to maintain the
1.23V at its pin 4 feedback input.
Frequency adjustment
VR3 is used for fine frequency
adjustment, while S1 and S2 move
the span down or up, respectively.
There are 16 spans labelled from Span
0 through to 9, then A to F.
For the fine frequency adjustment,
the voltage at VR3’s wiper is converted
to a digital value in IC1 via its AN4
input pin. Since the voltage across the
potentiometer is the same as the microcontroller’s supply voltage, this maps
to the full ADC range. A 100nF capacitor from that pin to ground lowers
the pin source impedance during the
analog-to-digital conversion process.
Australia's electronics magazine
The internal oscillator for IC1 runs
at 48MHz and can be adjusted in small
steps using the OSCTUNE register.
This can vary the internal oscillator
frequency over about a 15% range in
128 steps. For Span 8, with a 40kHz
centre frequency in driving the ultrasonic transducer, this allows a 5.2kHz
control range in 37.5Hz steps.
The cleaning timer also depends on
the oscillator for accuracy. We compensate for any variance from the
nominal 48MHz due to this fine frequency adjustment to maintain timer
accuracy.
The 37.5Hz step resolution in frequency change is sufficiently small
to drive the ultrasonic transducer
at its resonant point. However, the
OSCTUNE register does not have sufficient range to ensure we can drive
an ultrasonic transducer that is resonant outside the range of 37.291kHz
to 42.506kHz that can be obtained by
simply changing OSCTUNE.
Thus, a coarser adjustment is
used to widen the operating range.
July 2026 33
Parts List – Adjustable Ultrasonic Cleaner
1 111 × 159mm double-sided plated-through PCB, 04105261
1 98 × 60mm double-sided plated-through PCB, 04105262
1 110 × 159mm front panel label
1 50W 40kHz ultrasonic transducer
1 compact 16×2 character alphanumeric LCD screen
[Altronics Z7013]
1 M205 4A fuse (F1)
1 100μH 5A toroidal inductor (L1)
[Altronics L6622, Jaycar LF1270]
1 ETD29 transformer assembly: 1 former, 2 N87 ferrite cores & 2
clips (T1) [Silicon Chip SC3888]
Switches/potentiometers
3 tactile illuminated pushbutton momentary switches (blue,
green or red LEDs) [Altronics S1174/5/7, Jaycar SP0612-4]
1 SPST 250V 6A rocker switch (S4)
[Altronics S3210, Jaycar SK0984]
1 100kW linear 9mm vertical PCB-mount potentiometer with
6mm, 7mm-long spline shaft (VR1) [Altronics R1978]
2 10kW linear 9mm vertical PCB-mount potentiometer with
6mm, 17.4mm-long spline shaft (VR2, VR3) [Altronics R1946]
1 10kW miniature top-adjust trimpot, 3386F style or similar
(VR4)
1 push-on D-shape knob for ¼-inch shafts
[Altronics H6024, Jaycar HK7709]
2 18t spline 6mm knobs [Altronics H6109, Jaycar HK7733]
Connectors
1 16-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (for LCD screen)
1 20-pin DIL IC socket
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
2 M205 PCB mount fuse clips
2 2-way 20A 5/5.08mm-pitch screw terminals (CON1, CON2)
1 3-way 20A 5/5.08mm-pitch screw terminal (CON3)
2 14-way IDC crimp connectors [Altronics P5314]
2 14-pin keyed box headers (CON4, CON5) [Altronics P5014]
Hardware
1 171 × 121 × 55mm IP66 diecast aluminium enclosure
[Jaycar HB5046]
1 2-4L (stainless) steel, aluminium round or
square cross-section baking tray, 75mm tall or higher
1 65mm diameter DWV (drain, waste and vent) end cap
[eg, Holman DWVF0194]
1 35mm-long 65mm DWV pipe or 65mm to 45mm pipe reducer
[eg, Holman DWVF0382]
2 MG12 or PG7 cable glands (for the transducer cable)
1 mains Earth connector for attaching VR1’s shaft extension
(6mm ID wire entry) [Altronics P2125A]
4 TO-220 insulating kits [Altronics H7210, Jaycar HP1140]
1 MG16 or PG11 cable gland (for the power supply cable)
1 200mm length of electrical insulation tape
4 100mm-long cable ties
Screws etc
2 solder lug eyelets, M4 × 6mm screws, nuts and star washers
(for transducer connection)
2 M3.5 × 6mm screws for mounting PCB to enclosure
(in addition to the two supplied with the enclosure)
9 M3 × 12mm panhead machine screws
8 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 × 12mm tapped spacers
34
Silicon Chip
2 M3 × 6.3mm tapped nylon spacers
4 3mm inner diameter nylon washers
7 M3 hex nuts
1 M3 × 25mm panhead machine screw + M3 × (15mm, 12mm,
6.3mm) tapped nylon spacers + 3mm ID nylon washer OR
1 35mm length of 6mm timber dowel (for VR1 shaft extension)
Wire & cable
1 800mm length of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire
(for T1’s primary)
1 6.2m length of 0.5mm diameter enamelled copper wire
(for T1’s secondary)
1 1m length of 7.5A sheathed figure-8 mains rated wire
(for connecting the transducer)
1 400mm length of 10A hookup wire (for S4)
1 120mm length of 14-way 1.27mm pitch ribbon cable
1 50mm length of 5mm heatshrink tubing
(for transducer terminals)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F1459-I/P microcontroller programmed with 0410526A,
DIP-20 (IC1)
1 MCP6272E/P or LMC6482AIN dual rail-to-rail CMOS op amp,
DIP-8 (IC2)
1 7805 5V 1A regulator, TO-220 (REG1)
1 LM2576T-ADJ 3A adjustable regulator, TO-220-5 (REG2)
2 IPP80N06S4L-07 or equivalent high-current N-channel
Mosfets, TO-220 (Q1,Q2) [Silicon Chip SC6184]
2 BC547 NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q3,Q4)
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D1)
1 STPS1545F 45V 15A schottky diode (D2) [Altronics Z0065]
1 1N5404 400V 3A diode (D3)
Capacitors
3 1000μF 25V low-ESR electrolytic
3 100μF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF MKT polyester
6 100nF MKT polyester
1 1.5nF MKT polyester
Resistors (all ¼W, ±1% axial unless noted)
2 100kW
1 27kW
1 22kW
1 20kW
9 10kW
1 5.1kW
1 1kW
3 560W
1 68W
2 47W
2 100mW 1W SMD M6331/2512 resistors
[ERJM1W, RS Cat 566989 or similar]
Miscellaneous amounts of:
Solder, JB Weld epoxy resin, neutral-cure silicone sealant and
electrical tape
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fine-tuning is then done via OSCTUNE. The wider frequency range
allows a variety of different transducers to be used, as the resonance range
can be adjusted to suit.
This coarser calibration is performed using the PR2 register within
IC1. This sets the period and thus the
frequency of the PWM drive waveform
for the ultrasonic transducer. For our
circuit, the PR2 adjustment provides
steps of approximately 530Hz. We
restrict this coarse adjustment to the
range 33.683kHz to 46.859kHz. This
caters to transducers that have a nominal 40kHz resonance.
The value of the PR2 register
is stored in flash memory, so it is
recalled when power is applied. The
PR2 value sets the Span setting (0-F)
displayed on the LCD. The OSCTUNE
value is effectively ‘stored’ in the position of VR3.
There is the option to lock the Frequency setting and the Span so that
they remain fixed at their last settings
even when the power is switched off.
Each setting can be independently
locked or unlocked. When locked, the
related control has no effect.
Switches S1, S2 and S3 connect to
the RA1, RA3 and RA0 inputs of IC1,
respectively. The inputs are each held
high (at 5V) by 10kW pull-up resistors.
A closed switch is detected when it is
pressed, as the input is pulled to 0V.
Power supply
12-15V DC power for the circuit is
fed in via CON1. The supply needs to
be rated to deliver 4A or more. If using
a 12V battery, it should have a capacity of 10Ah or more.
More power can be produced with
a higher voltage supply, such as a
13.8V 4A supply or a universal laptop
power supply like Jaycar’s MP-3476.
This supplies 12V at 6A or 14V/15V at
5A. Do not use a 16V or higher supply
since the input capacitor for REG1 is
only rated at 16V.
If your supply has a power plug,
remove it and strip the wires to connect to the screw connector at CON1.
Power is switched by S4, which is
wired back to the PCB via the CON2
screw terminal.
LCD screen driving
The LCD is driven in 4-bit mode,
with the most-significant data bits
D4-D7 of the LCD connected to IC1’s
RB4-RB7 outputs. D0-D3, the least-
significant data input bits of the LCD,
are tied to ground. The enable and register select (EN and RS) also connect
to IC1 pins RC2 and RA5.
The contrast potentiometer (VR4)
provides a voltage to the contrast input
of the LCD and is adjusted for best display clarity. Display backlighting is via
the BLA (backlight anode) connection
to 5V and the BLK (backlight cathode) of the LED backlight connected
to ground via a 68W current-limiting
resistor.
Switches S1-S3 are also lit while
the unit is powered with their internal
LEDs via 560W current-limiting resistors across the 5V supply.
Next month
The second half of this article next
month will mainly cover the construction, setup and usage of the Adjustable
Ultrasonic Cleaner.
Assembling it is mostly straightforward, just requiring a bit of trickery so that all the controls (including
those on the main and control boards)
project through the front panel neatly.
We’ll have all the details in the secSC
ond part.
For the enclosure (left), we have used a IP66-rated aluminium case measuring 171 × 121 × 55mm, this is the smallest
size that will fit the Main Board. Next to it is the underside of the baking tray which we’ve fitted a 50W 40kHz ultrasonic
transducer to, functioning as our ultrasonic bath.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 35
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Ecovacs DEEBOT T50 Pro Omni
Robot Mop & Vacuum
It wasn’t that long ago that the
original iRobot Roomba robot vacuum
bumbled around picking up a few
odd hairs but mostly just got in the
way. Today there are many new robots
from Chinese manufacturers that
can also mop, with advanced
navigation and mapping, at increasingly
reasonable prices.
Review by Nicholas Vinen
S
ome of the more prominent robot
vacuum/mop brands now include
Dreame, Ecovacs, Roborock, Dyson,
Samsung, LG and Xiaomi. Most of
those are Korean or Chinese companies.
Recently, we were in the market for a
new vacuum cleaner because we were
sick of our Dyson vacuum, which was
very noisy and had a relatively short
battery life. We also don’t have a lot of
time for manual vacuuming, and even
less if you consider that we mostly
have hard floors that really could use
frequent mopping.
Those factors, and the fact that an
increasing number of our acquaintances use robot vacuums/mops, led
us to consider going down that route.
are so efficient at dirtying the floor with
food, grass, sand, confetti and so on.
Having a robot would mean that, as
long as we could keep the floor clear
of larger items, we could clean it as
often as needed.
Installing and setting up the robot
was easier than I expected. Unpacking the box, I quickly found the large
base station, the smaller robot, plus a
few accessories like a spinning brush
and power cord. I had to partly disassemble the base station to remove
all the bits of tape they put on it for
transport, but it only took a couple of
minutes and the parts snapped back
in place easily.
After that, all I had to do to set up
the base station was find a location for
it, install the ramp (it also clicks into
place), fill up the water reservoir and
then put the detergent in the internal
bottle. Then I plugged it into mains
power. It came with a vacuum bag
pre-installed.
Annoyingly, the box (which costs
$1500 at full retail price!) didn’t come
with any detergent, and you have to
use a special one – you can’t just use
whatever you have on hand. So I had
to run out and buy some before I could
finish setting it up.
The robot itself came almost fully
pre-assembled. I just had to remove a
bit of tape and snap the spinning brush
into place on the bottom of the unit. I
My robot
After looking at numerous brands
and models, we ended up purchasing the Ecovacs T50 Pro Omni “Deebot” robot vacuum because it had all
the features we wanted at a price we
could afford. It can vacuum and mop,
frequently cleaning the mops with hot
water and detergent back at its base
station. That’s ideal for keeping our
timber and tile floors clean.
After last Christmas, it was on sale
at half price, for $750. I’ve since discovered that these robot vacuums are
frequently on sale (it went on sale
again in late January). So we took the
plunge, especially since our children
38
Silicon Chip
Photo 1: the mops are attached magnetically so they’re easy to replace and one
can extend outward to clean edges, as shown here (there’s also an extended
brush at the front to pick up fluff and dust).
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
You can see the camera/lidar
system on the front of the
T50. The hatch at the top
gives access to the
power slide switch,
pairing button
and QR code to
connect the
app.
On the
underside,
you can
see the cliff
edge sensor
& drive wheels
(which have
a suspension
system). The mop
pads and brush are
held on by magnets, so
if they get caught, they’ll
fall off and you can pop them
back on.
then set it on the floor and switched it
on. The next step was to connect it to
my WiFi network and set up the app.
Not another app
I’ve previously written about how
I don’t like devices that rely on apps
and I intend to avoid them as much
as possible (eg, in the February 2022
Editorial Viewpoint; siliconchip.au/
Article/15192). However, I have to be
realistic in this case and accept that a
robot vacuum is going to need an app
to control it.
I’ve accepted that it may well be
that this app stops functioning before
the robot does. That will be very frustrating, especially given what it cost,
but I think it would be received very
poorly if Ecovacs or any of the other
manufacturers pulled support prematurely, so hopefully that keeps them
from doing anything too stupid in the
near future.
Connecting to WiFi was pretty easy.
First, the app connects to the robot’s
WiFi network. Then you select the
network for it to connect to and enter
your password. It then connects to
your network and you’re ready to control it via the app. The robot automatically returns to its base station and
begins charging.
The battery came more than half
charged, so I could have immediately
initiated cleaning, but I let it charge
first.
siliconchip.com.au
Options
While the battery charged, I went
through the options in the app. Some
of them are shown in Screen 1 (there
are more). You can choose whether
it just vacuums, just mops, vacuums
and mops at the same time, or vacuums first and then mops.
You can also control things like the
vacuum power (higher power will lift
dust better but make more noise and
discharge the battery quicker), how
much water it uses for mopping, how
quickly it goes about its business, and
whether it makes one pass or two. Having set those, and with the battery,
water and detergent all full, I told it
to go ahead and clean.
The first thing it does is drive around
your home to build a map using its
camera and lidar. That only takes a few
minutes. Once it has built a map, you
have the opportunity to name rooms.
You can also divide large rooms into
smaller ones (eg, in case it accidentally
considered two separate rooms as one),
merge rooms and make other changes
to the map – see Screen 2.
I then set it to work. By default, it
picks a room, then drives around its
perimeter while vacuuming and mopping. It mops using two microfibre
disc mops at the back, one of which
can extend outwards to reach edges
and corners (Photo 1). The vacuum
is in the middle and the mops at the
back of the robot (see above), so it will
Australia's electronics magazine
Screen 1: these are the standard
options that you would be most likely
to change. The Cleaning Modes are
vacuum only, mop only, vacuum+mop
in one pass, or vacuum then mop.
Screen 2: it only takes a few minutes
for the robot to build a lidar map of
your home. You can name the rooms,
split them, join them, specify which
areas have carpet or hard floor etc.
The white lines and lighter shaded
areas show its cleaning progress, the
base station is shown in dark grey and
obstacles are shown as darker areas.
July 2026 39
normally pick up dust, dirt and hair
before mopping that area.
After it has driven all around the
perimeter of the room, it starts making linear passes, going back and forth
until it has cleaned all the areas it can
reach. It automatically drives around
obstacles like furniture, pets or people,
even if they’re in a different location
each time. You can track its progress in
the app, as shown in Screen 2. Because
it’s low, it can get under couches, beds,
tables and some doors (Photo 3).
Once it has finished one whole
room, it will move onto the next and
repeat until all rooms are clean.
I found it surprisingly quiet, especially if you set it to the lowest vacuum power, which seems to be adequate for hard floors. You can hear it
moving around and doing its thing,
but it isn’t that annoying – much less
bothersome than a person vacuuming.
Thoroughness
Its mops certainly do a good job of
cleaning our timber floors. The two
rotating microfibre mops constantly
have water added from an internal
tank as it drives around.
By default, after every 15 minutes of
cleaning, it returns to the base station
to empty its dustbin into the main bag
and wash its mops with hot water and
detergent. Then it goes back to where
it was and carries on. You can change
that interval (eg, to 10 or 20 minutes),
or ask it to go back to the station after
cleaning each room.
Since this model uses hot water
and detergent to clean the mops in
the base station, they stay relatively
fresh throughout the process. You keep
the clean water tank on the base station full (it holds several litres) and
it dumps dirty water in another tank.
That water certainly comes out black
(see Photo 4)!
Even after several passes, the water
still came out black, even though we
regularly mopped the floors before getting this robot. Part of that is because
it cleans areas we can’t easily reach
– under couches, cabinets and beds –
and the rotating mops do a good job
of working grime out of cracks in the
timber.
After we ran it once or twice a week
for a few weeks (probably 6-8 total
passes), the water stopped coming out
so black and turns grey instead. That
suggests it has picked up most of the
remaining grime.
After running the robot the first
time, the floors looked, felt and
smelled cleaner than they had done
for years. Our whole home smells
better now.
I can tell from all the dust, hair and
detritus that has accumulated in the
bag in the base station that the vacuum function works too. And similarly, because it goes under things we
can’t easily vacuum under, it picks
up dust and dirt that has been sitting
there a long time.
Living with it
While the robot is very convenient,
it isn’t completely hands-off. If you
want it to do a good job, you need to
go around picking things up off the
floor before you start it (otherwise it’ll
clean around them). For example, if
you have a table surrounded by chairs,
you’ll want to move at least a couple
to let it get under the table.
Most of the time, the only maintenance you need to do is refill the clean
water tank if it’s getting low and periodically empty the dirty water tank.
Every couple of months you’ll also
need to empty or replace the vacuum
bag (maybe more frequently if you
have pets that drop a lot of fur). The
mop pads and vacuum filter will need
to be replaced eventually (perhaps
every 6-12 months).
A year’s worth of ‘consumables’
comes in at roughly $100, depending
on whether you buy genuine or thirdparty parts, and how often you use it.
It’s actually quite clever the way
the robot announces what it is doing:
“Starting cleaning!”
“Washing the mop with hot water!”
“Drying the mop!”
You can track its progress on the
map; it shows where the robot is, which
way it’s facing, what areas have already
been cleaned, and in what order it will
clean the rooms. With the T50 Pro
Omni model, you can even watch its
view from its onboard video camera,
although I haven’t tested that feature.
Apparently there are comprehensive security features to prevent others
from accessing that camera, but I’m not
sure how much I trust them.
Its coverage is pretty good; with the
central vacuum, roller brush, spinning
side brush and two mops (one of which
can extend to clean edges, or retract so
Photo 2: you can see the sheen from the wet areas of the floor it has already
mopped. It’s cleaning the middle of the room in a racetrack pattern.
Photo 3: it can fit under furniture to clean where you can’t easily, including
under this Majestic loudspeaker!
40
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
it doesn’t get caught), it cleans pretty
much 100% of the floor area it can
reach. The only places it won’t clean
are where it can’t fit through gaps.
It can detect the difference between
carpet/rugs and hard floors, deploying
the mops for hard floors or retracting
them, and increasing the vacuum suction power, for carpeted areas or rugs.
You can also specify which areas have
which flooring types, but it seems to
get it right.
While it’s very good at avoiding
obstacles, if it bumps one, it does so
gently with a spring-loaded bumper.
A switch in the bumper lets it know
when that happens and it will make
its way around the obstacle. Once it
knows where it is, it will avoid it for
the rest of the cleaning run.
By the way, you don’t have to use the
app once it’s set up. You can just press
the button on the top of the unit and it
will start a standard cleaning pass (it
also supports voice commands). The
same button can also be used to pause
it (or you can pause it via the app). It
will just sit there until you ask it to
resume. That’s quite handy if it’s getting in your way.
Cleaning multi-level houses
You can carry the robot up and down
stairs to clean another level. I think if
you have carpet and just need to vacuum, that would be OK. You’d ensure
the battery was 100% charged, carry
it up/down and let it clean that level.
Then you’d bring it back and let it
dock and charge when it was finished.
When you pause it, bring it to a new
level and unpause it, it realises it is
not in an area it knows and generates
a new map.
However, since we’re mopping hard
floors, it needs to return to the dock
roughly every 15 minutes to refill with
water and clean the mop. That means,
for a full clean upstairs, I had to carry
it up and down at least four times to
do the whole job. While it was easier than doing the cleaning myself, it
wasn’t exactly “set and forget”.
Annoyingly, you can’t buy a new
base station to put on another level
for your existing robot. If you want
two base stations, you have to buy
two robots. That does at least mean
you don’t need to carry them up and
down the stairs.
I therefore considered buying a second unit. The one we bought for $750
was back up to its full $1500 price,
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 4: you can tell the mops do
their job by how dirty the wastewater
is (the water used to clean the mops
periodically). Even after multiple
passes, it’s still picking up grime.
Photo 5: the T50 Omni base station is
the same size as the T50 Pro Omni’s.
It takes up room but not too much. It’s
slightly deeper than the nightstand it’s
next to but only about 2/3 as wide.
which I was not going to pay on top of
what we had already paid. However,
Ecovacs gives existing customers discounts, and the slightly cheaper T50
Omni model was on sale for $650 (no
“Pro” in the model name; full price is
around $1300).
I got an additional $60 discount for
already owning one of their robots.
So I decided that for $590, it was
worthwhile to get a second robot for
the convenience. Luckily there was a
space upstairs that was unused and
perfect for the base station, right next
to a power point. We ended up getting a white one this time (Photo 5),
making it obvious which robot we’re
dealing with.
The main differences I’ve noticed
are:
• The non-Pro model doesn’t have a
detergent dispenser in the station, so it
seems you can’t use detergent with it.
• The non-Pro model has a smaller
battery capacity.
• The non-Pro model apparently
has less advanced mapping, although
I haven’t noticed any differences. They
seem to work equally well in terms of
navigation.
• The non-Pro model doesn’t let
you look at the camera feed.
I think the processor on the non-Pro
model is overall less powerful, so it
lacks some AI-type features (detecting
stains etc) but in our usage, I haven’t
found that it makes any difference.
One advantage of having a robot for
each floor is that you can run them at
the same time if you want. And the
upstairs robot seems to detect our
stairs just fine and keeps itself from
falling down. I’ve heard the ‘cliff edge’
sensors can get dirty and fail, though; I
hope we don’t hear an expensive robot
tumbling down the stairs one day!
Australia's electronics magazine
Conclusion
It’s nice to finally see a truly useful
application of fairly advanced robotics in the home! I think these robots
are worth getting at their sale price.
July 2026 41
Silicon Chip
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42
Silicon Chip
If you’re wealthy, perhaps you could
consider paying full price, but it’s better to wait for a sale if you can. The
bottom line is that they work very well,
if not quite perfectly.
If they’re both on sale, I suggest
you pay the extra $100 and get the
T50 Pro Omni model. The detergent
reservoir (Photo 6) is nice to have,
although I think the non-Pro model
does a fine job of mopping without it
(the hot water cleaning makes a bigger
difference). The extra battery capacity is nice to have, mainly because it
will offset some of the ageing effect of
Li-ion batteries.
The non-Pro model does not support detergent use at all; there is no
detergent dispenser in the base station
(just a space where the T50 Pro Omni
has it), and Ecovacs specifies wateronly operation for both the robot and
base station. Oddly, the detergent they
sell is listed as being compatible with
the T50 Omni, but it’s unclear how
you’re supposed to add it. Mentioning it could be a mistake.
It appears that the battery packs for
the T50 Omni (5200mAh) and T50 Pro
Omni (6700mAh) share the same voltage, physical dimensions and connector. If that proves to be the case, it may
be possible to replace the smaller pack
with the higher-capacity one when the
battery eventually fails, although that
would be unofficial and unsupported.
Pros
☑ Thorough cleaning of hard floors
(likely good at vacuuming carpet too,
but we don’t have any)
Pushbutton convenience
Relatively quiet
Easy setup, both hardware-wise
and software-wise
Many cleaning options
Self-cleaning mops
Minimal day-to-day maintenance
Avoids obstacles even if they
move run-to-run (toys, chairs etc)
Can be run while people are
around or when you’re out (avoids
people and pets)
Can clean under furniture and
right up to edges
Announces progress audibly and
can be tracked via the app, including
an end-of-cleaning report
Won’t fall down stairs (unless it
malfunctions...)
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
☑
Cons
❎ Relatively expensive
Australia's electronics magazine
Photo 6: the T50 Pro Omni base
station with the door opened,
revealing the vacuum bag on the right
and the detergent dispenser on the
left. In the T50 Omni base station,
there’s just an empty space on the left.
❎ App & camera privacy concerns
❎ Premature obsolescence concerns
❎ The moderately large base sta-
tion permanently takes up space in
your home
Finite rechargeable battery life
(although the battery is user-replaceable)
Presence of people and pets can
reduce cleaning effectiveness
Can sometimes get stuck and
require manual intervention, making
it less convenient to run unattended
Limited support for multi-level
dwellings without multiple robots
You can’t buy an extra base station for an existing robot
❎
❎
❎
❎
❎
Videos
You can see a few short videos of the
T50 Pro Omni in action at these links.
Leaving the dock: siliconchip.au/
Videos/Deebot+start
Cleaning the floor: siliconchip.au/
Videos/Deebot+clean
Avoiding a table: siliconchip.au/
Videos/Deebot+avoid
Returning to the dock: siliconchip.
SC
au/Videos/Deebot+dock
siliconchip.com.au
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Generating ±15V from USB 5V with a common-mode choke
The circuit generates clean, regulated ±15V rails at up to 50mA (to
run circuitry like op amps) from a
USB power bank, phone charger etc.
It uses the sort of parts that are frequently recovered from junk circuit
boards and is pretty handy to have in
the toolbox.
It’s based on the venerable MC
34063A IC (REG1) in boost configuration to generate +24V from the 5V
supply. Instead of a regular inductor,
it uses a coupled inductor (sometimes
called a common-mode choke [CMC]),
so the second winding can be used to
generate the negative rail.
When REG1 pulls its pin 1 low
using its internal transistor, current
builds up in the lower winding of L1.
When the drive to that internal transistor is cut, the energy stored in L1’s
magnetic field causes pin 1’s voltage
to shoot up, forward-biasing diode D2
and charging the output capacitor up
to 24V (regulated using feedback to
REG1’s pin 5).
The same magnetic field also drives
current through the upper winding of
L1, with D1 conducting at the same
time as D2. As D1’s cathode ultimately
connects to ground, its anode goes negative, charging the other capacitor to
around -18V. This is not directly regulated, but it remains close to -18V as
a consequence of the positive output
being regulated to +24V.
7815 & 7915 linear post-regulators
are used to clean up the outputs of the
switch-mode chip. You can download
the PCB design and simulation from
https://github.com/lightbox-eng/pm15
The PCB is designed to fit in a small
Hammond 1551L plastic case.
The 1W resistor in series with the
input shown is not on the PCB, but it
is a good idea to add it if you ever plan
to plug this device into a computer’s
USB port. Otherwise, the high surge
current drawn by the 100μF input
capacitor charging could cause the
USB port to be disabled or possibly
even damage it.
Matthew Curlis, Lightbox Solar,
Leonards Hill, Vic. ($100)
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Got an interesting original circuit that you have cleverly devised? We will pay good money to feature it in Circuit Notebook.
We can pay you by electronic funds transfer, credit or direct to your PayPal account. Or you can use the funds to purchase
anything from the Silicon Chip Online Store. Email your circuit and descriptive text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 47
Driving a mini 3-digit low-power LCD module
Digital displays are useful for
showing voltage, current, power,
duty cycle ratio etc. This minimalist design uses a very small and lowcost 3-digit LCD screen, which lacks
an onboard controller, available from
AliExpress: 1005003745628043
It is driven by an STM32C011F6P6,
an entry-level 20-pin microcontroller based on a 32-bit ARM CortexM0+ core.
Since the supply voltage of the
LCD screen has a maximum limit
of 3.0V, a micropower low-dropout
(LDO) voltage regulator (MCP17023002) is used to power the microcontroller, which drives the LCD screen
directly from its outputs.
The 200kW resistors bias the LCD
common pins 7-10 at 1.5V (3.0V ÷ 2)
when the microcontroller GPIO pins
PA0 to PA3 are configured in input
mode, while the other LCD pins are
directly driven by the GPIO outputs
PA5 to PA12. The table opposite
shows which pin pairs need to be
driven to darken a particular segment, where A-G correspond to the
standard seven segments and 1-3
are the digits.
The wires between the microcontroller and LCD screen should be
kept as short as possible to minimise
DC bias artefacts and prevent ghosting or image retention on the LCD
screen. Higher-value resistors can be
used, since the LCD draws negligible
current. The microcontroller consumes only about 3.4mA at 48MHz
and only 85µA in sleep mode.
For testing purposes, I used
a mini development core board
programmed using the Arduino
IDE. The development board only
costs less than $2! (AliExpress
1005009677670000). The development board circuit can be downloaded from siliconchip.au/link/
acan
The microcontroller code is written in C++. You can download it from
siliconchip.au/Shop/6/3610
The test consists only of driving
the LCD screen as a decimal counter,
incrementing once per second. You
can see the prototype counting up in
the video at siliconchip.au/Videos/
minLCD+demo
Once you get that working, you
can modify the code to perform
other jobs.
Djouad Saada,
Oran, Algeria. ($75)
Randomly timed model traffic lights
A friend of mine bought a set
of model traffic lights, which he
expected to operate randomly. However, he found that they followed an
all-too-predictable pattern. Could I
change them to something slightly
more erratic? This circuit is the
result.
IC1 provides a random 3-bit input
to IC2, a BCD-to-decimal converter.
With a 3-bit input, eight out of ten
decimal outputs are used. These
48
Silicon Chip
are fed via diodes D2-D9 to three
coloured LEDs. As shown, these
LEDs are weighted green/amber/red
with a 3:1:4 ratio. IC2’s A3 input pin
is tied low to prevent any uncertain
logic state.
In practice, the circuit illuminates the LEDs for a few seconds
each on average. There is some room
for experimentation. For instance,
the values of the capacitors may
be altered, or the number of diodes
Australia's electronics magazine
feeding each LED can be rearranged.
As a joke, I included a “New South
Wales” switch S2, which introduces
random power outages.
A supply voltage of 9-12V is
recommended (3V minimum and
15V maximum). The circuit draws
roughly 20mA, so a plugpack power
supply is recommended for longterm use.
Thomas O. Scarborough,
Cape Town, South Africa. ($70)
siliconchip.com.au
LCD segment to pin mapping
Pin
1
2
COM1
–
3D –
3
COM2
3C 3E
COM3
3B
COM4
3A 3F
4
5
6
2D –
1D
2C 2E
3G 2B
1C 1E
2G 1B
2A 2F
1G
1A 1F
Diode-biased capacitive proximity sensor
This is a proximity sensor which,
with a large square tin foil sensor, will
reliably detect two hands at a distance
of one metre. It has exceptional stability and low current consumption.
Capacitive proximity sensors pick
up a minuscule charge on the human
body, equivalent to about 100pF. Thus,
a human hand will usually be detected
on contact with a sensor, or within a
few centimetres.
Proximity sensors commonly have
two types of front end: sensitive transistor preamplifiers or RC oscillators
with a very small capacitance value.
However, there is another way – arguably, a better way – based on a diodic
divider, a concept I introduced in the
Circuit Notebook section of the February 2024 issue (page 47).
siliconchip.com.au
A CMOS TL072 dual op-amp has
input impedances of around 1TW.
These inputs may be regarded as floating. In this circuit, the non-inverting
input of IC1a is biased with a fixed but
adjustable voltage using 1MW potentiometer VR1 and, for fine adjustment,
a 100kW potentiometer (VR2).
The inverting input uses two
reverse-biased 1N4148 diodes to provide a roughly mid-rail bias voltage
with an extremely high source impedance of a few GW (gigohms). It is then
possible to present a human charge
directly to this input.
Power consumption is just 2mA
on standby, while drift is virtually
non-existent. This means that sensitivity can be greatly increased. However,
on switch-on, allow a few minutes for
everything to settle before adjusting
the trimpots for maximum sensitivity
without false triggering.
Various sensors may be used, and
these need not only be metal. A timber
tabletop served well in experiments.
Note that ambient EMF has some influence on the charge on a human body,
so the performance of the circuit may
be influenced by nearby mains wiring.
The supply voltage for the circuit
is 7V to 36V, although 9-12V is ideal.
A small 9V PP3 zinc-carbon battery
should last about a week.
A friend suggested that, by inserting
a meter at the output of IC1a, one could
turn this circuit into a joke ‘lie detector’.
The sensor could be a small metal pad.
Thomas O. Scarborough,
Cape Town, South Africa. ($75)
July 2026 49
Part 2: electronics
Phil Prosser’s Phenomenal
Pinball
L
ast month, we showed the
overall configuration of the pinball machine and introduced pretty
much all the modules that make it up.
Besides the cabinet, controller, score
display and deck, pretty much everything else is modular. Those modules
fall into two broad categories: electronic and electromechanical.
It helps to have the electronic parts
working as you build the electromechanical parts, so that you can test and
actuate them properly. Therefore, we
will present the electronics first, starting with the circuitry and then the
PCBs and assembly instructions (we
published the parts list last month).
Some parts are required, like
the Control Board and Power Supply. Most of the others are optional,
although you’ll almost certainly want
to build most of them. In some cases,
like the bumpers, targets and kickers,
most good machines will have several.
With pinball, more is more!
Our Control Board has been designed
to have enough inputs and outputs for
what most constructors will need.
Later, we will eventually present an
expansion board, in case someone
wants to build a monster pinball game!
While not strictly necessary, it’s
very helpful to have a computer with
a USB port for testing. You also need a
serial terminal program such as PuTTY
to access the debugging information.
Now let’s get stuck into the electronic side of the game.
Circuit details
Machine
The full circuit of the Control Board
is shown in Fig.4 overleaf. The sections in dashed boxes are repeated
multiple times, as described in the
notes at the top of those boxes.
We use 74HC595 serial-to-parallel
shift registers to drive all the outputs
and 74HC165 parallel-to-serial shift
registers for monitoring all inputs.
This allows us to have hundreds of
I/Os with just a few pins used on the
Pico 2. These chips are relatively inexpensive, so the board doesn’t cost a
huge amount to build despite its size.
All this I/O could have been handled
in a single very-high-pin-count FPGA
or microcontroller, but this would
probably cost about the same as the
discrete solution and would definitely
need to be a surface-mount device. We
thought it was best to make this easy to
work on. There is also a level of nostalgia in using old-school devices.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
This customisable pinball machine has everything you’d
expect: a ball launcher, flippers, bumpers, ramps, targets,
rollovers, sound effects, flashing lights – the works. You can
build it just like ours or design your own using the electronic
and mechanical modules we’ve designed and tested.
50
Silicon Chip
Adding to the number of parts on
the Control Board, there is substantial input and output protection. The
inputs can be expected to be subject
to some pretty serious EMI. Given that
this is a large device and very mechanical, it is also likely that during construction and servicing, the inputs will
be subject to abuse.
All inputs have 1kW series resistors and clamp diodes limiting the
74HC165 input voltages to safe levels. We also have 1kW pullup resistors
to 3.3V on all inputs, making it easy
to connect switches between these
pins and GND. This means that if you
choose not to use a particular input or
sensor, it defaults to an inactive state.
The 1kW pull-ups provide a relatively low impedance, which makes
coupled noise less likely to be a problem. We run a ground line along with
each input group from the controller to the pinball deck, which should
minimise ground-related noise problems that can occur when switching
high currents.
There are four 74HC165 devices
on the board, providing 32 discrete
inputs. This is just enough to make a
decent pinball machine.
We considered using resistor arrays
on the inputs and outputs, but the
cost from reputable suppliers was far
more than individual parts. We felt the
trade-off between parts count and cost
to constructors fell well on the side of
individual resistors.
LED outputs
We need a lot of lights to make the
machine pretty, meaning we also need
a lot of controllable outputs. We chose
to use LEDs for most outputs, though
you could connect incandescent bulbs with some modifications. The supply
current draw could
get out of hand
unless you
are careful,
though.
There are
thirteen 74HC595
chips on the board,
providing a total of
104 outputs. 40 of these
are dedicated to the score
and player number displays.
The remainder is buffered with
open-collector transistors. This allows
us to drive LEDs at much higher currents than the 74HC595 supports,
siliconchip.com.au
which is 50mA total per chip.
We run the white LEDs at 25mA,
although the transistors will happily
sink much more current than that with
lower-value current-limiting resistors.
The LED outputs use 64 transistors,
but these are cheap and any pin-compatible NPN device will do (BC337/8,
BC546/7/8/9 etc). If you need to handle more current, that is quite possible;
just watch the 5V supply total limit.
All the 74HC595 shift register
inputs are driven in parallel with the
SER (serial data) and SRCLK (serial
clock) signals, so data is clocked into
all shift registers simultaneously.
However, this has no effect on the outputs of any chips until one of the individually driven RCLK pins is driven,
allowing us to clock eight bits of data
to any of these chips at any time.
Every time eight bits (one byte)
of data is clocked to a register and
latched, the states of the eight connected outputs are updated simultaneously. We are driving these devices
way below their maximum rate and
can still update all the outputs in a
couple of hundred microseconds.
From a modern data communications perspective, this is terrible. But
since we are interacting with human
beings, this allows a solid 1kHz update
rate for everything on the pinball table,
which is more than fast enough.
One concern we had was driving
SRCLK and SER to so many devices
across such a large board. We have
included a 100W
series resistor
at the driving end.
The signal measured across the board
is quite clean, showing very safe setup
and hold times without undue ringing.
Power outputs
Pinball machines need to be able
to drive solenoids at relatively high
voltages and current, as well as things
like bells and lamps. This is a job for
a power Mosfet. Having only 3.3V to
drive the Mosfet gates from the Pico 2
demands the use of logic-level devices.
In our machine, we use 12V 1.5/2A
solenoids but drive them at 24V. The
flippers use two in parallel, which
amounts to a short-term demand of 6A,
although only for 100ms or so. This is
why we have 10,000μF of supply bulk
storage on the 24V rail (split between
the Control Board and the Power Supply Board).
For these Mosfets, we have specified IRLZ44NPBF devices, which are
about $1 each if you buy 12. These
are rated at 55V and 47A with a maximum 1.8V Vgs (gate-source voltage)
threshold. This means we can drive
them straight from the 74HC595 outputs, given that the chip is running
from a 3.3V supply, for compatibility
with the Pico 2.
Make sure you use logic-level
devices (ideally the ones we’ve specified) or they won’t work properly. Be
careful as not all ‘logic-level’ Mosfets
are equal; for example, we cheekily
used some MTP3055VL devices in
development, but these are only “on”
enough to allow testing, and should
not be used in a permanent installation.
Each power output has a normally
reverse-biased 1N4004 diode across
it to absorb the significant inductive spikes from the solenoids.
These are included on
the controller as ‘belts
and braces’; you will
see that we also
specify diodes
across the
solenoids
themselves
under the pinball
deck. Once you see the
machine in operation, you
will understand our conservative approach here.
...continued on page 54
Photo 6: the Control Board for the Pinball
Machine will take a while to build. But
since it’s split up into sections, you can tackle
it one bit at a time.
July 2026 51
Fig.4: the Control Board is large but it’s made of lots of repeated sections, so we’re only showing each one once. There
are four instances of the input section inside the dashed red box, giving 32 total inputs. The tables show their default
functions. There are five low-current output sections (green box) to drive the Player and Score 7-segment displays and
eight medium-current outputs (cyan box) to drive up to 64 LEDs (note the use of different resistor values in some sections).
The 12 high-current outputs are inside the purple dashed box, with the default functions of each listed.
52
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 53
Sound interface
We used a ‘1-bit PWM DAC’ library
for sound, which uses the onboard
PWM modulator and an interrupt
service routine (ISR) to generate an
analog 8-bit output at a sampling rate
of 11kHz. This is not hifi, but it does
the job.
The output is from a single digital
I/O line at pin 7 (digital output GP5).
It goes through a low-pass RC filter
before being amplified by an LM384
power amplifier, producing sound
from the small connected loudspeaker.
Future expansion
We’ve considered what might happen if someone more ambitious than us
runs out of inputs or outputs, so we’ve
provided a four-pin header (CON20)
and three two-pin headers (CON35CON37) for future expansion. In a
pinch, CON35-CON37 can be used as
three extra switch inputs.
We plan to describe a board in a
future issue that can be connected to
these four headers to provide even
more inputs and outputs. In theory,
we (or you) could add any number of
both, but most likely we will add one
bank of 8 inputs, two to four banks
of 8 LED outputs and one bank of 4-8
high-current Mosfet-based outputs.
That should be enough for a very complex Pinball Machine indeed!
Keep in mind that the existing
Photo 7: the Power Supply Board
provides 3.3V and 5V DC rails to
power the Pico 2, LEDs and so on
from the 24V supply. It also passes
the 24V supply through to
power the solenoids and audio
amplifier.
design already has several
spare inputs and outputs,
so it’s possible to build a
somewhat more complex machine than
ours without needing any expansion. It depends
on how ambitious you are!
The software will need to
be modified to handle the extra
I/Os but that should not be difficult.
Power Supply Board
Old-school pinball machines ran
their solenoids at quite high voltages, in many cases exceeding what
are currently considered ‘safe’ levels.
We want to make our pinball machine
something that anyone can fiddle with,
without fear of a significant shock. So
the whole thing operates from a 24V
DC 5A plugpack or power brick. A rating higher than 5A won’t hurt.
We have used several different supplies while working on this project,
including a 20V 6A laptop docking
station supply. This is a touch short
of our target of
24V, but works
well enough and
it was free.
We succeeded in achieving excellent performance from the flippers
with a 24V rail, but had to use dual
solenoids per flipper and overdrive the
12V DC rated solenoids at 24V. This
gives us the oomph we need without
the use of hazardous voltages.
To ensure the power supply rail
handles the high current pulses, we
have 6600μF of storage on the Power
Supply Board and another 4400μF on
the Control Board.
Our lighting in the game is all
LED-based, so the power supply has
Fig.5: the power supply is mercifully simple. The incoming 24V DC (or thereabouts) is fed straight through with some
capacitors to help handle current spikes. That supply is also converted efficiently to 3.3V and 5V rails to power digital
logic and LEDs by a pair of integrated buck (step-down) regulators, REG1 & REG2.
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high-efficiency buck (step-down) conversion of the 24V DC to 3.3V DC and
5V DC rails for logic and lighting. The
current draw on these rails can exceed
1A, so linear regulators are not a sensible option.
The Power Supply circuit is shown
in Fig.5. It’s intended to be mounted
reasonably close to the Control Board,
as there are some quite high current
spikes that will be drawn when solenoids are actuated. We won’t linger
on the power supply design, as it is
quite conventional, with the two stepdown converter sections basically
being lifted straight from the LM2576
data sheet.
The only difference between the
two buck regulator sections is in the
feedback divider resistor ratios. The
LM2576T-ADJ uses negative feedback
to regulate its feedback pin to 1.23V. So
with a feedback ratio of 2.6 (1 + 1kW
÷ 1.6kW), that results in an output of
3.198V (1.23V × 2.6; close enough to
3.3V). Similarly, 1 + 3kW ÷ 1kW = 4
and 1.23V × 4 = 4.92V.
All rails are fused, as we have a
creeping suspicion that there will be
quite some ‘poking around under the
deck’ for a machine that is well used.
The 3.3V and 5V converters are pretty
efficient (typically about 80%), so their
normal draw from the 24V rail will be
a couple of hundred milliamperes in
the worst case.
For example, a 1A draw from the
5V rail is a load power of 5W. At 80%
efficiency, that’s 6.25W drawn from
the input, which is just over 250mA
for a 24V supply.
We have used rather chunky pluggable terminal connectors for the outputs on this board, and in many other
places in this project, such as for solenoids. The current will see 3A pulses
when each flipper is operated, with
brief pulses to 6A. So we cannot use
lightweight plugs and wiring. These
connectors are rated at 10A and allow
you to unplug parts of the machine
during construction and service.
Photo 8: the
finished Pinball
Machine (legs
not shown).
Note that the
backboard
has a strip of
white LEDs
run around the
inside of the
bezel that flash
when certain
events are
triggered.
Remaining circuits
The Control Board and Power Supply contain about 95% of the electronics in the Pinball Machine, but there
are another 10 simple circuits/boards
used, mostly to keep the wiring manageable:
1. Player Number Board: this is a
simple 7-segment display on a small
carrier board wired to a 10-pin IDC
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Fig.6: these helper circuits (starting with the Player Number Board) mostly serve
to simplify wiring the various LEDs, switches, sensors and solenoids up to the
Control Board without the wiring becoming a mess. They all connect back to
the Control Board with some combination of 10-way ribbon cables and figure-8
cables for the solenoids.
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July 2026 55
Fig.7: the circuit
diagram and PCB
overlay for the Score
Board, which uses
six 7-segment LED
displays. These displays
must have commonanode wiring. Don’t
trick yourself and
accidentally install
common-cathode parts,
they look identical but
don’t work.
header (Fig.6). Connecting it to one
of the low-current output headers on
the Control Board allows the current
player number to be displayed.
2. Score Board: this board has six
7-segment displays, four 10-pin IDC
headers and a small amount of drive
circuitry (Fig.7). It’s driven by four
low-current output sets to show the
score as four digits plus two zeroonly digits (so the score is always a
multiple of 100). That means you can
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get a score approaching one million
– much more impressive than mere
thousands!
The onboard resistors and transistors allow the zero digits to be switched
on or off using pin 8 of CON101, meaning there’s no connection to the decimal point segment of DISP1.
3. General LED Board: this connects
up to eight separate LEDs to a 10-way
ribbon cable (Fig.8). The LEDs connect
to this board via two-pin polarised
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headers. It’s driven from one of the
medium-power outputs on the Control
Board and is used for general lighting
and effects.
4. Bumper LED Board: this has
eight LEDs in a circle and fits around
the outside of bumpers (Fig.9). Like
the General LED Board, it connects
to a medium-power output set on the
Control Board.
The Bumper LEDs use one 8-bit output port each from the Controller and
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Fig.8: the General LED Board, which
connects up to eight separate LEDs.
generate patterns triggered by time and
when the ball hits the bumper hard
enough. We used the brightest reasonably-priced LEDs we could find. The
resistors on the Control PCB set their
drive current to 20mA.
Our deck had drilled holes into
which we inserted 3D-printed clear
LED bezels, to be described in a future
article. The PCB is mounted with the
LEDs pushed into the bezels, and we
glue a couple of the LEDs to the bezels
to secure the assembly. As shown in
Photo 4 last month (and reproduced
on page 62), this board is sized to
fit around the bumper mechanisms.
5. Cascade LED Board: this has 15
LEDs in a triangle pattern (Fig.10).
The extra LEDs let us flash some
interesting patterns. It’s typically
placed in the middle of the deck
and is driven by two medium-
power output sets on the Control Board. Note that there is
no LED16 due to the triangular layout.
6. Switch Input Board: this
connects up to six regular
switches and two inductive
sensors to an 8-way input port
on the Control Board (Fig.14).
The inductive sensors differ by
needing a 24V supply voltage, hence
the 3-way connectors for them. These
should connect to CON2-CON4 on the
Control Board as those are the input
headers with a connection to 24V
(CON1 supplies 3.3V).
7. General Input Board: this connects up to eight regular switches to
an 8-way input port on the Control
Board (Fig.15).
8. High-Current Interface: this adds
four back-EMF clamp diodes across
the wires to up to four solenoids
(Fig.11). It’s important that these are
close to the solenoids. It can also simplify the wiring by keeping the four
figure-8 cables from the Control Board
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Fig.9: the circuit diagram and PCB overlay for
the Bumper LED Board is shown above and
to the left. Depending on how you plan
your Pinball Machine, you might need
several of these.
Fig.10(a): the PCB overlay
for the Cascade LED Board.
The circuit diagram
for this board is shown
overleaf.
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July 2026 57
Fig.11: the HighCurrent Interface
Board. This board
should be kept close
to the solenoids.
Fig.10(b): the circuit overlay for the Cascade LED Board. Note that it
only has 15 LEDs instead of 16 due to the layout.
together up to this board. This board
is used for the flippers and reload
mechanisms or other things you want
to control.
9. Rollover Board: this connects
up to eight inductive sensors to an
8-way input port on the Control Board
(Fig.12).
10. Bumper Driver Board: this is
like a combination of the General Input
Board and High-Current Interface
(Fig.13). Having them together means
one less board to mount, as they are
both required for bumpers and kickers.
It also provides one extra high-
current channel, allowing for the
three bumpers and two kickers to be
connected via a single board, plus
three extra headers and current-
limiting resistors for high-power LEDs
(mounted on top of the bumpers) to
be wired in parallel with the bumper
solenoids.
Control Board assembly
First, make sure you have a good
couple of hours spare and are armed
with a cup of your favourite beverage.
Construction is not hard, but it is a
proper task. Get all the parts together
and ready. Follow the plan, and if
you stop, make sure you stop somewhere sensible so you can pick up in
an orderly manner.
The Control Board PCB overlay is
shown in Fig.16 (at actual size, but
split across two pages). Start by fitting
all the resistors. There are only a few
values, which is a mercy, but there
are a lot of the 1kW, 220W, 150W and
82W parts (plus just a few of the 100W,
2.2W and 2.7W). We mounted them all
in the marked sections on the PCB, one
value at a time.
An old trick when loading a lot of
parts is to get a sheet of packing foam
or similar. Once you have bent the
leads of the parts and inserted them
through the pads, put this on top of
the board, then holding the foam to
the PCB, you can flip it over knowing
all your parts won’t fall out.
Another cheeky trick if you find
yourself stuck is to solder some parts
from the top of the board.
Next, install the diodes. Start with
the 1N4148s, which are the most
numerous (64), and watch their polarities as they don’t all face the same way.
After that, solder the larger 1N4004s,
again paying attention to their orientation (don’t forget D1, all by itself next
to the Pico mounting position).
Fig.14: the Switch Input Board. This
connects up to six regular switches
and two inductive sensors.
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Fig.12: the
Rollover
Board (left
and below)
connects
up to eight
inductive
sensors.
Fig.13: the Bumper Driver Board PCB overlay is shown
directly above, and its respective circuit diagram directly
below. It provides an extra high-current channel allowing
for three bumpers and two kickers to be connected via a
single board.
Now is a good time to solder all
the ICs to the board. There are a few
things to watch out for here. First,
don’t get the 74HC165 and 74HC595
chips mixed up, as they come in
the same package but have different
functions.
Second, double-check the orientation of each part before soldering it!
It’s really annoying to fix a rotated chip
and usually involves destroying it to
get it off the board safely.
Third, we suggest you solder chips
directly to the board rather than use
sockets, as sockets can oxidise and
become a source of unreliability. Also,
since these are fairly sturdy logic
chips with lots of protection, they are
unlikely to fail, and sockets are an
additional cost. Still, if you want to
use sockets, you certainly can.
Fig.15: the General Input Board
connects up to eight switches to the
Control Board.
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July 2026 59
Next, load all the 100nF capacitors.
We used (and suggest you use) ceramic
capacitors as they are better for bypassing digital ICs. However, if you have a
box full of 100nF greencaps or MKTs,
you certainly could use them.
Now mount all the terminal block
sockets and headers, including the
box headers. All connectors are
keyed; be careful to get them in the
right way around, as we rely on the
ribbon cables to simplify a lot of wiring and you don’t want them back
to front. The notch is marked on the
silkscreen.
We have specified boxed connectors
for the 10-way cables so that as long as
you mount the headers the right way
around, it should be almost impossible to break anything no matter where
you plug things in.
Loading the transistors is easiest if
you mount them close to the board
and solder all the outside legs from
the top of the board. This gives you
plenty of room to get your soldering
iron in, then flip the board, solder the
outside pins on the bottom, then snip
off the outside legs before soldering
the middle pin.
Now you can install the pushbutton
switch and LED next to it, followed by
all remaining capacitors. Mount all the
Mosfets, making sure you do not short
any of the tabs together; heatsinks are
not required. Follow with the volume
potentiometer.
Now fit two SIL header strips to the
Raspberry Pi Pico 2. These can be cut
or snapped from a longer header (eg,
snap a 40-pin header in half to get two
20-pin headers).
While you could solder the Pico
2 directly to the board for reliability
(making sure you get it the right way
around!), we recommend that you
instead solder header sockets to the
board, allowing it to be unplugged if
necessary.
Phew, you are finished. Sit back and
behold that Control Board, straight
from the 1970s, except for the Raspberry Pi board, of course! You will
need a power supply before you can
test it, though...
Power Supply
The locations of all the components on the Power Supply Board are
shown in Fig.17 overleaf. Fit the resistors, then the diodes (watch the orientations), followed by the fuse clips
and fuses, then the capacitors. Next,
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solder the output socket in place, double checking that you have it the right
way around.
The regulators do not need heatsinks the way we use them. If yours
came with five pins side-by-side, use
fine-nose pliers to crank them out
to match the PCB pad pattern, then
solder them in place with the tabs
orientated as shown in the overlay
diagram.
Power supply testing
Check that all the components are
on the Power Supply Board, including the fuses; then you are ready for
testing.
Your power supply doesn’t need to
be rated at exactly 24V DC, but lower
voltages will result in less ‘oomph’ for
the electromechanical parts. It does
need to be able to deliver at least 5A.
We have not tried voltages above
24V, but it should work up to about
30V, with 19V being about the lowest
we would bother with. We encourage
you to look in your drawer of outdated
laptop and docking station power supplies, as these are usually 19-21V at a
very high current.
To test the board, apply 24V DC
or thereabouts to either of the input
connectors. There is no reverse polarity protection, so take care with your
wiring!
Check the 3.3V output; it should
be between 3.1V and 3.4V. Similarly,
check the 5V DC output; it should be
between 4.7V and 5.1V.
If either voltage is too high, our prototypes regulated fine with no load, but
it’s possible yours needs a load on it,
so add a 100W resistor across that output and check again.
If it’s still too high (or too low),
there’s something wrong with the
board, so switch off the power and
check it carefully for dry joints, short
circuits, incorrectly orientated or
wrong-value components. Check the
orientations of the diodes and verify
that the LM2576s are -ADJ versions.
Also check that your power supply
is working properly and that the input
voltage is as expected with the board
powered up.
Fig.16: the Control Board is
substantial, in part because it
completely avoids the use of surfacemount parts. A lot of the work is
simply in fitting the many resistors
and diodes, but once you’ve done that,
the rest is not too bad.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2026 61
At this point, you should have
a functional power supply and are
almost ready to test the Control Board.
However, it will be much easier to test
it once you’ve built some of the various LED and breakout boards.
Remaining board construction
Photo 4: this photo (from last month) gives an idea of what the wiring is like on
the underside of the Pinball Machine.
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These boards are all pretty simple to
build, so we will just give some brief
notes for each. Use the overlay and circuit diagrams, Figs.6 to 15, as a guide
to assemble them. Importantly, it will
also help to have an idea at this stage of
how many of each board you will need,
which depends on your intended deck
layout (if it’s similar to ours, you can
stick to our suggestions).
Even if you don’t know, it’s pretty
safe to build one of each for now. You
will almost certainly need more than
one Bumper LED Board, as bumpers
are a staple of a good pinball game.
Most of the smaller boards have
all the components on one side. The
exceptions are the Bumper and Cascade LED Boards, which have the connectors on the back, and the Player and
Score LED Boards, which have the displays on the front and everything else
on the back.
When building the High-Current
Interface Board, watch the orientations
of the pluggable headers. These need
to accommodate the screw terminals,
as shown on the overlay, and be in
the same orientation as on the Control Board, or the diode will short out
the controller output and most likely
blow a fuse.
For the Player and Score Boards,
make sure you use common-anode
7-segment displays; common-cathode
types will not work. Also, get the
header the right way around.
For those boards with LEDs or transistors, be careful to orientate them as
shown in the diagrams. That also goes
for all the connectors, including the
pluggable terminal blocks.
For those boards with LEDs, you
may need to solder them on extended
leads to fit the deck; if you’re unsure,
solder them with maximum lead
length. Once these are installed under
the deck, some extra lead length is
not a problem, and makes installation easier. Keep the heights consistent regardless.
Also consider that you may want
to use different colour LEDs in some
places. We used a mix of red and
white; there’s nothing stopping you
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.17: the power supply layout. You will note that the output connectors are in
a different position than shown in the photos, so that a 6-way connector can be
used to match the Control Board.
from using other colours if it suits
your build, just make sure they are
high-brightness LEDs.
The parts lists last month includes
everything you need to build the
boards, but nothing to mount them.
We’ll get to that later when we start
assembling the Machine. You’ll probably need big bags of M3 machine
screws and tapped spacers, although
we will also describe the 3D-printed
mounts we used in our build.
Controller testing
The first step is to load the software
onto the Pico 2; you can download it
from siliconchip.au/Shop/6/3628
Once you have the ZIP, locate the
UF2 file within and extract it. With
the Pico 2 unplugged from the Control
Board, hold the BOOTSEL button on
it while plugging the cable into your
computer using a USB data cable.
BOOTSEL is the small-surface mount
button on the Pico 2.
It will appear as a removable drive
on your computer. Drag-and-drop the
UF2 file onto that drive. It will copy
and, after a few seconds, the drive
should disappear and the Pico 2 will
reboot.
Before plugging the Pico 2 into the
Control Board, make sure the Power
Supply Board is producing the right
voltages. Wire up the two 6-way pluggable terminal blocks to each other,
ensuring the correct voltage is applied
to each input on the Control Board
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with the right polarity. Double-check
this before applying power!
Apply power and check that all
three supply rails are still delivering
the correct voltages. If not, check that
the electrolytic capacitors on the Control Board are the right way around,
and poke around for anything getting
hot. Without the Pico 2 plugged in, not
much should be happening.
Now remove the power, wait a few
seconds, plug in the programmed
Raspberry Pi (the right way around!)
and apply power again. Check that
the heartbeat LED next to the Pico 2 is
blinking. If it is not, the Pico 2 is either
not programmed or is very unhappy.
Check the 3.3V and 5V rails; if they
are OK and the LED is not blinking,
unplug the Pico 2 from the controller
board and power it using a USB cable.
The LED on the Pico 2 should blink.
If not, the Pico 2 is not programmed.
If it does not blink, there is a fault on
the Control Board (could the LED be
reversed?).
Assuming it’s ‘alive’, now it’s time
to make a few 10-pin ribbon cables
with IDC plugs on each end. Make
them long enough to be reused in the
machine as you build it later. Check
that the triangle on each connector
indicating pin 1 aligns with the redstriped part of the cable, or at least that
it points to the same side of the cable
at each end – see Fig.18.
It’s important when crimping the
IDC connectors that you use enough
force to compress the connector so the
blades slice fully through the insulation and contact the wires within, but
not so much that you break the plastic.
It’s a tricky balancing act, but it helps
to apply force evenly across the top of
the connector during crimping.
Now, using five such cables, join the
Score and Player displays to the Control Board. Connect CON107 on the
Player display to CON5 and CON101104 on the Score Board to CON6CON9, respectively.
Apply power and you should see
“SC Pin Ball” scroll across the four
display segments on the left a couple
of times. If that does not happen at all,
check the data and control lines, especially SER and SRCLK. These lines
run to most of the ICs on the Control
Board, so a failure anywhere (like a
short circuit) could stop the whole
thing from working. Look for solder
bridges on the Pico 2 connections.
Also check your cables, which are
easily overlooked culprits. Check
pins 9 and 10 especially carefully if
no LEDs work.
If only some displays or segments
are working, look for the control lines
having a problem, including those
that go to pin 12 on IC5 through IC9
(L_PLAYER & L_DIGITS0-3). The most
likely cause would be in the soldering or an improperly crimped ribbon
cable.
We use the score display in the SelfTest mode, so you will need to get it
working before proceeding.
Fig.18: here’s how to crimp the ribbon cables. Most IDC connectors come with
strain reliefs like this and are in three pieces. If yours lack that, only having two
pieces, the cable can just pass straight through. Pin 1 (red stripe) is usually also
marked with a moulded triangle on each connector
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 63
Screen 1:
while we used
PuTTY, you
could use any
serial terminal
program to
monitor the
Control Board’s
output in SelfTest mode.
You will see
a scrolling
status list in the
window. Your
COM port will
differ; check in
Device Manager
to see which port
you should use.
Screen 2: any input that is active (pulled low) is reported by name in this
mode. Normally, you make a single input active at a time and check that it was
correctly detected. Here, we have intentionally pulled Bumper 1 and Kicker 1 to
ground.
Assuming the display works, hold
the Self-Test button (S1) on the Control
Board while powering the system up.
This puts the controller into test mode.
It provides serial data via a USB serial
port regarding its status and relevant
data for a series of tests for the inputs,
LED outputs and power outputs. You
really should use this for all testing
and debugging.
In Self-Test mode, data is also written to the score display, but considering we have four display digits to
work with, the output is pretty brief.
The controller emulates a serial connection, so all you need to do is plug
it into a computer and run a terminal
like PuTTY or Tera Term Pro to display what the controller is sending.
On a Windows PC, you can go into
Device Manager and look at which
serial port your computer has assigned
to the Pico 2. This varies – search for
and open Device Manager, then look at
Ports (COM & LPT), which will show
you the serial port number. Tera Term
also shows the available ports and
their names when you launch it.
We ran PuTTY on our computer,
clicked on serial connection and then
“Open”. This opens a window that
prints out data on the serial port – see
Screen 1.
In test mode, you will get relevant
data sent out about once per second,
depending on what test you are running. You will know that you are in
Self-Test mode as the heartbeat LED
does not blink. Instead, data is sent
on the serial line and to the Score
display.
Input tests
Screen 3: testing the LED ports one at a time.
Screen 4: testing the high-current (‘power’) output ports, one at a time.
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The first test is reading the inputs.
This will present data to you on the
serial console as shown in Screen 2.
Simultaneously, the Score display will
scroll the value of the inputs in two
four-character HEX numbers. These
are arranged as MSB first, LSB last.
There is a space in between to let you
see the two words.
We have inverted the logic in the
display, so 1 means the input is active,
ie, pulled low.
You can stimulate each input to the
controller by shorting that input to
ground and you should see the corresponding input value change. We
used the General Input PCB for this,
as it breaks out all eight inputs run
from the ribbon cable to eight two-pin
headers. We shorted each in turn with
siliconchip.com.au
a screwdriver. You could also use a
jumper shunt.
A quick-and-dirty test is to short
each input in turn and look for the
reported input state changing. Even if
you don’t bother decoding the input, if
the value changes each time you short
a different input, it’s likely that all the
inputs are working. If an input does
not work, check the associated input
soldering, resistor, cabling and diodes.
If a whole input bank does not work,
check that IC’s soldering. Before desoldering chips, check the soldering and
the control lines carefully, as getting
those ICs off the board realistically
requires a hot air gun or snipping
every lead off and individually desoldering them.
Output tests
Once you are satisfied that all the
inputs are working, press and hold the
Self-Test button for a second or so to
progress to the output tests. A quick
press might not work because of how
the software works in test mode. A
message will be presented on the serial
output and also the score display.
Press the Self-Test button again; this
makes the Player LED port blink on
and off at 1Hz. A second press runs
each LED in series for that port. The
serial report on your computer should
show something like Screen 3.
Repeat this test for the four Score
board headers, the three Bumper headers, the two Pattern LED headers; then
the Rollover LEDs, Target LEDs and
General LEDs (those three are on one
header each).
If a whole port does not work, debug
the control lines and check your soldering, especially around the associated IC. If individual LEDs do not
work, look from the output IC through
the transistor to the output connector.
Power Output tests
Next come the power outputs. These
tests make the output active for 100ms,
then off for 600ms. We run the test this
way, as if you have a solenoid connected, it will be driven very hard, and
we do not want to leave power applied
for an indefinite period. If you have the
serial port connected still, you will see
these states reported on the terminal,
as shown in Screen 4.
The next three button presses will
start bumpers 1-3 pulsing on and off.
Connecting a bumper or LED with a
1kW series resistor to see these operate.
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 9: this photo gives you an
idea of the size of the Pinball
Machine. It stands 153cm tall
(71cm for the legs alone), 60cm
wide and 112cm deep.
After that are the two kickers, then the
left and right flippers.
The eighth press activates the second kicker, although I didn’t use that in
my machine. A ninth press triggers the
ball load solenoid, then after that the
ball release solenoid. The bell comes
next; this operates at 50% duty cycle
since we use a 12V bell, and if you run
this test with the bell plugged in, we
don’t want to melt it.
If all of these fail, then we need
to look at the SER and SRCLK lines
(although if you got this far, surely they
are OK). If the first eight or second four
fail but not all, look at IC22-IC23 plus
the L_Power0 and L_Power_1 lines.
If an individual output fails, check
Australia's electronics magazine
for soldering problems and wiring
problems, especially around the Mosfets. These Mosfets are pretty chunky,
so it is very unlikely that they will
fail if you have the diodes installed
correctly.
Now plug the speaker into CON10
and turn up the volume to a moderate
level. Apply power and listen for a tune
at start-up. If this fails, look around the
power amplifier and volume pot.
Next month
You should now have the controller
up and running. Next month we will
start describing how to 3D-print and
assemble parts like the bumpers, kickSC
ers, targets and flippers.
July 2026 65
Feature By Andrew Woodfield
Making simple & good-loºking
boxes
If you are anything like me, you make all sorts
of electronic stuff. When I show off my latest
creation, an attractive-looking device with a few
pretty lights always gets a more positive response than my
rough, lashed-up designs on unetched PCBs.
T
he final step of creating a new electronic device typically involves
finding a box to suit it as it’s nearing
completion. It’s a Goldilocks moment,
except that I usually find absolutely
nothing is quite the right size. I might
buy something, only to change the
design and then discover that it no
longer fits in that expensive box!
Frequently, I just need a simple box.
One well-known approach is to lasercut something from thin birch ply (see
Photo 1 above). You can also use this
approach with acrylic sheets. Designing and fabricating these boxes is easy,
particularly with help from the many
free online design tools.
These types of boxes are instantly
recognisable; it’s the dark and light
crenulated edges that are the giveaway.
Frankly, that appearance is sometimes
seen as less than ‘professional’, even
if the electronics within are a marvel
of design.
An alternative is 3D printing. This
approach is great in many cases,
especially for unusually shaped prototypes. However, 3D prints can take an
appreciable amount of time to design,
and often even more time to print.
I recently needed to make several
boxes, the first for a version of an HF
receiver, and the second for a small,
short-range, low-power SSB transmitter. In both cases, I was looking for a
quick solution while also delivering
an attractive appearance.
The receiver I was testing was built
by Charles Kosina (April 2026 issue;
siliconchip.au/Article/20079). The
electronics are all mounted on a PCBtype front panel. It is designed to allow
the receiver to be mounted in an offthe-shelf plastic box. However, try as
I might, I couldn’t find that box or a
suitable equivalent locally. Faced with
this problem, and wanting to get the
receiver into a box quickly to allow
testing, I looked for other options.
Solution one
The first solution I came up with,
Fig.1: the cross-section of
the 3D-printed rails
used in the first
of these simple
enclosures.
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
shown in Photo 2, was surprisingly
simple. In this approach, four corner
rails are 3D-printed in lengths (and
colours) of your choice. For this first
enclosure, I made my rails 50mm long.
In hindsight, they were probably about
10mm too short, and things got a bit
tight inside.
I slotted in a set of small rectangular ply panels cut from 2mm basswood
ply sheets. That shape, along with
the selected material, permits very
fast and easy cutting. Being simple
rectangles, they can be cut by hand
with a metal ruler and a sharp craft
knife or, as I did, with a laser cutter.
One feature of this type of enclosure
is that the burnt laser-cut edges are
completely hidden.
While the ply thickness was quoted
as 2mm according to the label, the
material actually measured 1.6mm,
so that was the thickness I used in the
corner rail design. I double-checked
this again on several other sheets from
another retailer, and I found the same
result. A third retailer, however, had
2mm sheets that were 2.1mm thick.
Clearly, some variation exists in the
industry.
The cross-section of these rails along
with a 3D view is shown in Fig.1. The
holes were dimensioned to suit M3
hardware.
With the 6.5mm thickness from the
rails on each panel edge plus 0.5mm
for the materials, a total allowance
of 14mm is used when designing the
panels.
However, the back panel of the case
requires no such allowance, and thus
siliconchip.com.au
▶
Photo 2 (left): Charles Kosina’s HF receiver needed
an alternative enclosure solution prior to bench
testing when the specified enclosure could not be
located locally.
Photo 1 (lead): while easy
to design and make, the
appearance of many lasercut boxes does not reflect the
excellence of the electronics inside.
has identical dimensions to that of the
front panel.
The HF receiver’s front panel measured 160 × 65mm. I cut the following
panels directly from the “2mm” ply
using a laser cutter:
∎ Top & bottom panels: 2 <at> 146 ×
50mm
∎ Left & right panels: 2 <at> 51 × 50mm
∎ Back panel: 1 <at> 160 × 65mm
I used PC-based drawing software
to create the outline of the back panel.
This allowed me to precisely dimension and locate the holes for the DC
power supply and the RCA phono-type
antenna connector that I used with the
receiver. The next version will add
a 3.5mm speaker connector and an
accessory connector for the optional
colour LCD screen.
I used CorelDraw to design this
panel and to convert it to a suitable format for my laser cutter. However, there
are many possible design packages,
including free ones (eg, Inkscape).
At a pinch, the drawing functions in
standard office productivity software
could also be used.
During assembly, I gently sanded the
edges of the panels that were inserted
into the corner rails. While the drawing (Fig.1) shows sharp right-angle corners in the base of the slots, when 3D
printed, there was a very slight rounding on the corners at the bottom of the
slots. Sanding the edges with 180-grit
sandpaper very lightly allowed the
panels to fit precisely into place.
I initially planned to use 6mm-long
self-tapping cheesehead screws to
hold everything in place. However,
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 3 (above): a smaller enclosure with curved edges.
my elderly 3D printer ended up producing slightly undersized holes in the
rails. I found some M3 hex bolts in my
parts bin instead and tapped the holes
in the rails to match.
Incidentally, I designed and
3D-printed all the front panel knobs.
This provided a neat overall appearance but, more importantly, it allowed
me to use a set of knobs that fitted
nicely into the available panel space.
A second option
I then designed a second smaller
enclosure for a very small low-power
SSB transmitter, this time an enclosure using rails with curved edges.
The box, shown in Photo 3, measured
120 × 25 × 55mm. The small transmitter PCB and a 9V battery fit inside
this little box.
The new rails I designed for this
enclosure were slightly smaller and
subsequently faster to print (see Fig.2).
The panels were equally fast to cut,
again from 2mm ply, and the assembly
was completed in just a few minutes.
This time, I used 10mm-long self-
tapping screws.
While smaller overall, a total allowance of 10mm is used with the panels
and these rails. For this enclosure with
its 120 × 25mm front and back panels,
the dimensions of the remaining ply
panels were:
∎ Top & bottom panels: 2 <at> 110 ×
55mm
∎ Left & right panels: 2 <at> 15 × 55mm
Available files
The industry standard STL files for
the two rail styles described here are
available for download from the Silicon Chip website at siliconchip.au/
Shop/6/3577
These can be lengthened or shortened using settings in most 3D ‘slicers’. These slicers drive the 3D printer
based on the content of the STL files.
Just prior to printing the file, the user
can adjust several features of the final
output, including scaling each axis.
Fig.2: the rail
cross-section
used in Photo 3.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 67
Ideal Bridge Rectifiers
Choose from six Ideal Diode Bridge
Rectifier kits to build: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/?article=16043
28mm spade (SC6850, $30)
Compatible with KBPC3504
10A continuous (20A peak),
72V
Connectors: 6.3mm spade
lugs, 18mm tall
IC1 package: MSOP-12
(SMD)
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ (DPAK)
21mm square pin (SC6851, $30)
Compatible with PB1004
10A continuous (20A peak),
72V
Connectors: solder pins on
a 14mm grid (can be bent
to a 13mm grid)
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ
5mm pitch SIL (SC6852, $30)
Compatible with KBL604
10A continuous (20A peak), 72V
Connectors: solder pins at
5mm pitch
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ
mini SOT-23 (SC6853, $25)
Width of W02/W04
2A continuous, 40V
Connectors: solder
pins 5mm apart
at either end
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: SI2318DS-GE3 (SOT-23)
D2PAK standalone (SC6854, $35)
20A continuous, 72V
Connectors: 5mm screw
terminals at each end
IC1 package:
MSOP-12
Mosfets:
IPB057N06NATMA1
(D2PAK)
TO-220 standalone (SC6855, $45)
40A continuous,
72V
Connectors:
6.3mm spade lugs,
18mm tall
IC1 package: DIP-8
Mosfets:
TK5R3E08QM,S1X
(TO-220)
See our article
in the December
2023 issue for more details:
siliconchip.au/Article/16043
68
Silicon Chip
Alternative panel materials
The files corresponding to Figs.1
& 2 can also be used with panels cut
from 1mm-thick (18 gauge) aluminium
sheets available from several electronics retailers. I’ve also included two
additional STL rails files for use with
0.5mm-thick (24 gauge) aluminium
panels. These are more commonly
found at building supply retailers.
The 0.5mm sheets can be cut with
heavy-duty domestic scissors in situations where access to a metal guillotine is not available. The front and
back panels in either of the examples
here can also be replaced by aluminium panels without any changes to
other parts of the enclosures.
The panels may also be made from
thick card in cases where designers
are uncertain about the final size or
placement of parts on the enclosure
(and we’ve all been there!). This is also
an option for those on a limited budget. By applying inkjet-printed paper
labels covered with self-
a dhesive
transparent film to the front and rear
panels, a fairly robust and quite professional finish can be achieved.
If panels are made from PCB material, these are usually 1.5-1.6mm thick
and therefore nicely match the first
set of rails.
Adhesives
Once all the panels are slotted and
screwed together, they will all stay
locked in place without the need for
any adhesive. During prototyping,
when you may wish to leave some of
the panels off, such as the top cover
and back panel, it may be necessary to
use a drop of hot glue here and there
to keep everything in place.
If the panel thickness varies significantly from the slot width, a little
adhesive may be required to prevent
the panels from vibrating, particularly if that panel is used for mounting a speaker.
Different enclosure sizes
The enclosure dimensions can be
altered to suit individual requirements. Just keep in mind the allowance
required for the rails when dimensioning the panels.
Let’s use the curved rails to demonstrate this. As designed in the STL
files, these are 55mm long. You may,
for example, want an enclosure that
measures 60 × 35 × 50mm, as shown
in Fig.3. The rails can be printed at a
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.3: an example of a differentlysized enclosure.
Z-scale of 50/55 or 91% to produce
rails with the same cross-section but
lengths of 50mm.
Remember that these rails add 5mm
to the left, right, top and bottom edges
of the ply panels. So, for this new
enclosure with its 60 × 35mm front
and back panels, the dimensions of
the remaining panels would be:
∎ Top & bottom panels: 2 <at> 50 ×
50mm
∎ Left & right panels: 2 <at> 25 × 50mm
3D printing & laser-cutting
services
3D printer and laser cutting services
are now available for those who do not
own such equipment. The first place to
check is local public libraries. Over the
past decade, many have begun hosting technology services, and facilities
often include this type of equipment.
Some also provide classes, and
many provide a maker service, offering
printing and cutting for a very modest fee. In the case of our city libraries,
the charges for 3D printing are usually
based on the item’s weight in addition
to a small setup fee, and availability of
the finished item is often very prompt.
Failing this, some companies also
provide a fee-based printing and cutting service, although these are likely
to be slightly more expensive.
Final comments
This simple, fast, and low-cost
approach to making enclosures has
allowed me to dramatically improve
the final appearance of some of my
designs. It delivers a modern professional finish and, importantly, avoids
the often distracting appearance of
dark and light laser-cut edges on these
boxes.
It’s also very easy to modify the basic
components presented here to cater for
a wide range of requirements. Armed
with this approach, I feel this solution
is certain to also find a use around your
SC
workshop, too.
siliconchip.com.au
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KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
DCC ACCESSORY DECODERS
(JUL 26)
I2C CONTROLLER COMPLETE KIT (SC7690)
(JUL 26)
HUMAN COMFORT INDICATOR (SC7646)
(JUN 26)
Snap-type (SC7685): includes the PCB and all non-optional onboard parts
Servo-type (SC7686): includes the PCB and all non-optional onboard parts
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts (see p83, Jul26)
Kit: includes all parts, except the case and battery (see p49, Jun26)
- white 3D-printed case: portrait (SC7453) or landscape (SC7684) version
- 3.3V GY-BME280 module (SC5482)
$40.00
$40.00
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DCC BOOSTER / REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER KIT (SC7579)
(MAR 26)
Includes all required parts, except for the Jiffy box, OLED screen (see below),
power supply and front panel (see p58, Mar26)
- 0.91-inch OLED screen (SC7484)
$30.00
DCC REMOTE CONTROLLER KIT (SC7552)
(FEB 26)
$60.00
$12.50
$10.00
MAINS HUM NOTCH FILTER (SC7598)
(FEB 26)
DCC BASE STATION KIT (SC7539)
(JAN 26)
DCC DECODER KIT (SC7524)
(DEC 25)
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(DEC 25)
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(NOV 25)
PINBALL MACHINE KITS
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Includes everything except for the case and power supply (see p53, Feb26)
$50.00
(JUN 26)
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Control Board (SC7659): includes the PCB and all non-optional onboard parts
$150.00 The Pico 2 is supplied but not programmed (see p39, Jan26)
$90.00
Power Supply (SC7680): includes the PCB and all onboard parts
$50.00
RGB
LED
STAR
KIT
(SC7535)
(DEC 25)
Cable & Connector Set (SC7681): includes 17 10-pin box headers, 34 10-pin IDC
Includes the mostly-assembled board and all non-optional components
connectors, 10m of 10-way ribbon cable, 30 2-way pluggable terminal blocks
$80.00
and 20 2-way polarised headers
$65.00 except the power supply (see p43, Dec25)
SIMPLE USB POWER MONITOR (SC7683)
(JUN 26)
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts (see p63, Jun26)
- 0.96in 128x64 cyan OLED screen (USB Power Monitor, Jun26; SC6176)
- 0.96in 128x64 white OLED module (USB Power Monitor, Jun26; SC6936)
μDCC DECODER KIT (SC7617)
(MAY 26)
Includes all the parts and the optional piezo (wire not included). Specify if
you want a bell or whistle sound for the microcontroller (see p88, May26)
SIMPLE LC METER COMPLETE KIT (SC7657)
(MAY 26)
POWER AMPLIFIER CLIPPING INDICATOR (SC7649)
(MAY 26)
Includes all the parts and the 3D-printed enclosure (see p67, May26)
$50.00
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$45.00
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are not included (see p35, May26)
$95.00
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(APR 26)
CALLIOPE AMPLIFIER PARTS (SC6021)
(APR 26)
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Includes some of the harder-to-get transistors, resistors and a capacitor
$35.00
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$55.00
Assembled Board: a fully-assembled PCB with all non-optional components,
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By Tim Blythman
μDCC Decoder
Accessory Decoder
I2C Controller
DCC Accessory
Decoders
Destination Display
Our previous DCC (Digital Command Control) projects can control multiple trains in a model
railway, but what about fixed devices such as points (turnouts or switches) and signals? You need
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/
an accessory decoder; we describe two suitable circuits.
a-model-train-set-with-a-red-caboose-iP9kBOECD2U
W
e have previously published points
motor controllers and signal controllers, including a design that
interfaces with servo motors – see
Circuit Notebook, December 2020
(siliconchip.au/Article/14682).
Les Kerr’s past designs include a
semaphore signal operated by a servo
motor from April 2022 (siliconchip.
au/Article/15273) and a points motor
controller for snap-type motors in the
February 2024 issue (siliconchip.au/
Article/16132).
A DCC decoder that can interface
with points motors and servo motors
allows these devices to be integrated
into a DCC system. Let’s have a quick
look at the types of accessory devices
that might be found on a model railway and how our Accessory Decoders can work with them. We’ll assume
you have some experience with model
railways.
Points motors
The most common points motors
fall into two main categories. The
first is a solenoid or snap-type motor,
where the mechanism is actuated by
one or more coils. Peco-brand motors,
as used by Les, are common and have
two coils: a pulse on one coil sets the
points for the straight, while a pulse
on the other sets the points for the
curved track.
Other designs have one coil and
depend on reversing its drive polarity to change the points. It is possible
to convert between different arrangements with cleverly connected diodes.
The snap-type motors may come with
two, three or four wiring connections.
DCC PROJECT KITS
Snap-type Accessory Decoder (SC7685, $40)
includes the PCB and all onboard parts, including the electrolytic capacitor
Servo-type Accessory Decoder (SC7686, $40)
includes the PCB and all required onboard parts
I2C Controller (SC7690, $30)
includes the PCB and all other parts
70
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Another type is known as a slow-
motion or stall motor. These are simply
brushed DC motors driving a gearbox
to slowly move a linkage, and are thus
more like their full-size counterparts.
As the name suggests, the motors simply stall at their endpoints if they are
continuously driven.
Better units are designed to handle continuous stalling and may have
extra dry switch contacts to provide
feedback or control other devices,
such as signals. As you might expect,
the current requirements for these
motors are quite different, with stall
motors needing perhaps tens of milliamperes, while the snap-type motors
might draw a few amps for a fraction
of a second.
Our Snap-type Accessory Decoder
will work with both of these motor
types. Each output consists of a
DRV8231 full-bridge motor driver IC,
like we used in the DCC Locomotive
Decoder earlier in this series. Driving
the DC motors in a slow-motion point
motor or the coils of a snap-type motor
is trivial with this chip.
The DRV8231 can be operated as
two open-drain outputs, so we also
provide a connector to the supply
voltage, which becomes the common
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Fig.1: the Snap-type Decoder uses a
simple linear regulator to power its
low-voltage circuitry. The 4700μF
capacitor provides a reservoir for
bursts of current to drive solenoidbased motors.
connection when used with three-wire
motors. Two-wire point motors simply
use the two motor outputs.
Signal lights
We have also provided a mode that
configures the Decoder as four opendrain outputs (with independent controls), so it could be used to operate
simple on-off devices like signals or
layout lighting.
A basic application could wire a
red and green bi-colour LED (with
an appropriate series resistor) across
the motor output to show a different
colour depending on the polarity of the
output. Independent LEDs (wired with
a common anode) or lamps could also
use the open-drain outputs.
Servo motors
Servo motors simply require power
and a digital pulse signal. They will
move to a position determined by the
pulse width. Les’ project shows how
a servo motor can be used to operate
a semaphore signal arm. It could also
be applied to things like level-crossing
boom gates.
Commercial suppliers such as Peco
are now selling servo motors and
brackets that allow their points to be
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driven by a servo motor. Our Servo-
type Accessory Decoder simply has
four servo motor outputs that are suitable for small hobby servos. It can set
each output to be one of two adjustable pulse widths to toggle between
two different positions.
Circuit details
Our original plan combined features
of both Decoders into a single circuit,
but we figured it would be simpler
to create two distinct variants. Thus,
there are two boards with much in
common; we will start by explaining
the common features. Fig.1 shows
the circuit for the Snap-type Decoder,
while Fig.2 is the Servo-type Decoder.
CON5 is the input for the DCC track
voltage, while diodes D1-D4 form a
bridge rectifier to create a DC rail,
which we’ve labelled as a nominal
Features & Specifications
🛤 Separate DC input to allow higher voltage for motor operation (up to 24V)
🛤 Pushbuttons to allow use without DCC
🛤 Headers to allow remote mounting of pushbutton controls
🛤 Programmable running time set by DCC CVs
🛤 Can interface with the I2C Controller (described in this issue)
🛤 Simple address programming
Snap-type Accessory Decoder
Two bipolar high-current outputs suitable for driving snap-type and slow-motion point
motors
Can be configured with four open-drain outputs instead
Servo-type Accessory Decoder
Four servo outputs
5.3V 1A switchmode power supply for servos from DCC input
Two independent programmable servo positions per output, set by DCC CVs
🛤
🛤
🛤
🛤
🛤
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 71
12V here (it could be lower or, more
likely, higher). CON6 leads to a single
diode D5 that can be used to connect
a different source of DC power; effectively, it is diode-ORed with the supply from CON5.
Our locomotive decoders can work
up to about 17V, but both Accessory
Decoders can operate with inputs up to
at least 24V. 12V is a common voltage
for HO and N scale operation, so the
CON6 input allows a higher voltage for
accessories operation without having
to run the booster at a different voltage.
Many snap-type point motors suggest a
16V minimum operating voltage.
IC1 is a 20-pin 8-bit microcontroller in both cases, with a nominal 5V
supply bypassed at its pins 1 and 20.
These, along with pins 4, 18 & 19,
connect to the ICSP (in-circuit serial
programming) header, CON8. The
10kW resistor pulls up pin 4 for normal operation.
CON7 is the connection for the I2C
Controller that can be used to easily
program the Accessory Decoders. The
two 10kW resistors are pullups for the
I2C bus that the I2C Controller uses.
The 3.3V pullup is from an I/O pin
on IC1; this pin can be directed to an
internal DAC that can source or sink
up to 20mA at an internally set voltage,
so it is an easy way to get a suitable
voltage at adequate current without
needing external components.
The two LEDs are provided with a
series resistor, with LED2 driven by
one of IC1’s digital output pins. LED1
is driven from a different power rail on
each Decoder; from the motor supply
on the Snap-type Decoder and from the
5V rail on the Servo-type Decoder. The
5V rail here is derived from the 5.3V
rail used to power the servo motors.
Thus, they show the health of the
respective power supplies.
The other common items in both
circuits are the pushbutton switches
(S1-S4 or S1-S2) and jumper shunt (JP2
or JP3). These are simply connected
to digital input pins on IC1. The pins
are configured with internal pull-up
currents to allow detection of the
switch or jumper state. The respective
CON9s simply break out the switch
connections so that the switches can
be remote if preferred.
These inputs are used in different
ways for manually controlling the
Accessory Decoder or programming
its CVs (configuration variables) to
customise its operation.
Snap-type Decoder specifics
In this Decoder, the 5V power rail for
IC1 is provided from a simple 78L05
linear regulator (REG1), with 100μF
capacitors on its input and output.
The current requirements for the 5V
rail are expected to be no more than
20mA, even with the I2C Controller
connected, so this widely available
part will be fine.
IC2 and IC3 are the motor driver ICs
described earlier. Their supply (Vmotor)
is bypassed by a 4700μF capacitor
that is charged from the 12V rail via a
1W 100W resistor. The large capacitor
allows brief bursts of high current to
be provided to the motor drivers, while
Fig.2: the Servo-type Decoder has a switchmode supply to provide ample current to power servo motors. The low-voltage
circuitry (such as the microcontroller) is powered via a diode from this supply.
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the resistor limits the rate at which
the capacitor charges between uses;
the charge time is around one second.
Since LED2 is connected across
this capacitor, it will show point
motor activity by dimming briefly.
Two 10kW/1kW dividers with 100nF
smoothing capacitors monitor the
voltage upstream and downstream of
the resistor. Thus IC1 can detect when
the 4700μF capacitor is fully charged.
IC2 and IC3 each have a 1μF local
bypass capacitor and have 3.3V supplied to their Vref pins by the DAC
output noted earlier. The 0.1W shunt
resistors on the Isen pins set the current limit for IC2 and IC3 to 3.3A, just
below their 3.7A maximum.
The pairs of IN1 and IN2 pins are
driven by IC1 to control IC2’s and IC3’s
outputs, which connect to CON1 and
CON2, respectively. For cases such
as slow-motion point motors where
lower loads are driven and the burst
capability is not needed, the 100W
resistor could be replaced by a link
and the 4700μF capacitor reduced in
value to, say, 100μF.
Servo-type Decoder specifics
With most hobby-type servo motors
operating at around 6V and typically
drawing a few hundred milliamperes,
we need something more capable than
a 78L05 to provide the low-voltage
rail on this variant. REG1 is
an MCP16311 switching regulator that’s
used instead. It is configured for an output
of 5.3V and the circuit
here is much the same as
that used on the DCC Base
Station.
The Servo-type Decoder
(the board shown directly
to the right) could be used
for other applications such
as level crossing booms and
semaphore signal arms.
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Table 1: Accessory Decoder CVs
CV number Purpose
Default
Notes
1 (513)
Low address byte
1, 2, 3, 4
All values (0-255) are valid.
3 (515)
Output duration
25
In steps of 10ms; the default gives 0.25s
and the maximum value of 255 gives 2.55s.
A value of 0 gives an unlimited duration.
9 (521)
High address byte
0
Only three bits are valid (ie, values 0-7).
33 (545)
Servo time thrown
100
Servo pulse length in steps of 10μs
(100 = 1ms).
34 (546)
Servo time closed
200
Servo pulse length in steps of 10μs
(200 = 2ms).
35 (547)
Number of outputs
available
2 (Snap)
4 (Servo)
When the Snap decoder’s CV35 is set to
four, there are four open-drain outputs
available. This only has an effect on the first
decoder output of each board.
Apart from the SMD parts that surround it, it has a 100μF capacitor on
its input and output. The power rail
for the microcontroller is supplied
from the 5.3V rail via schottky diode
D6, giving close enough to 5V; this
rail also has a 100μF capacitor for
bypassing.
The diode ensures that bursts of
current from the motors do not cause
brownouts on the microcontroller.
LED1 is fed from this 5V supply, so it
should be steadily lit.
Since servo motors are quite simple
to control, the remaining circuitry is
straightforward: the four servo connections at CON1-CON4 consist of threeway headers with ground, 5.3V and
a digitally generated signal from IC1.
The four 470W resistors help to isolate
IC1’s I/O pins from any noise or surges
from the servo motors.
These two
compact boards
allow you to control
different points motor types in a
DCC model railway. The Snaptype Decoder (the boards shown
above and to the left) can also
be used to control lights, such
as signals. Here we’ve shown it
with and without the 4700μF
capacitor attached.
DCC accessory decoder details
We should briefly explain some of
the terminology related to DCC accessory decoders. Accessory decoders
might also be called stationary decoders, in contrast to the mobile decoders found in locomotives and the like.
Accessory decoders have a separate
addressing scheme to mobile decoders, so locomotive #1 and accessory
decoder #1 are distinct and will not
be confused. The packet structure and
data contents are different, too.
The current standard promotes a flat
addressing system that ranges from 1 to
2048, although earlier standards used a
segmented sub-addressing system. We
tested our Decoders with a DigiTrax
system along with the JMRI software;
both work with the linear system, so
that is what we are using.
Unlike mobile decoders, stationary
decoders have just two outputs; these
are known as ‘closed’ and ‘thrown’,
based on US railway terminology for
points set to the straight (or default)
route or curved (non-default) route,
respectively. The common Australian equivalents are ‘normal’ and
‘reverse’.
For example, the DigiTrax unit uses
the abbreviations ‘c’ and ‘t’ to describe
the outputs, and the JMRI software
has buttons labelled “Closed” and
“Thrown”.
July 2026 73
Each output can be activated, which
will deactivate the other if it is active.
There is also a duration setting, which
determines how long an output is activated; this is
the duration of the
brief pulse when
a snap-type motor
is activated. If the
duration is set to
zero, the output
runs indefinitely.
This brings us to
the CVs (configuration variables) used
by accessory decoders.
Table 1 shows the CVs
that are supported by
our Accessory Decoders.
CV33, CV34 and CV35 are
custom CVs whose purpose is not fixed
by the standards. Not all of these CVs
are used, but CV3 is commonly used
as a duration setting and is available
for all outputs.
The CV numbers are given as two
different addresses (that differ by 512)
since these were created under a different numbering scheme, which has also
been simplified. We treat the CV numbers the same in software by ignoring
the upper bits.
Firmware operation
Like the locomotive decoders, these
Decoders monitor the DCC signal via
100kW protection resistors. When a
relevant packet is detected, it triggers
one of the outputs or programs a CV
as needed.
The Accessory Decoders also check
if an I2C Controller is connected and
interact with it if it’s present. This Controller has no processor of its own, so
the Decoder must provide a display
driver and menus for allowing settings
to be made.
The driver keeps a character buffer, not unlike an older 8-bit personal computer. It updates one character at a time from the buffer, which
Snap-type Decoder assembly
The Snaptype Decoder
attached to the I2C
Controller.
takes about 2ms. Since DCC
packets take about 5ms to
receive, this means it is very
unlikely for the Decoder to
miss a packet.
The Snap-type Decoder
can also delay activation of
an output if the Vmotor rail
line is low from a previous
activation. The threshold
used is 90% of the 12V rail
or 6V absolute minimum. A
round-robin counter ensures
that only one pulse output is
activated at a time.
Construction
We’ll describe the construction of the two Decoders separately, followed by some common
operational features, then the unique
aspects of each. How to use the I2C
Controller with the Accessory Decoders is described in its separate article.
You’ll need SMD assembly gear,
since there are a number of SMD parts.
This should include flux paste, tweezers, a magnifier and solder-wicking
braid. Illumination and ventilation
will also help.
Fig.3: start by soldering
the exposed pads on
the undersides of IC2
and IC3; there are
large holes in the PCB
to allow access from
below. There is nothing
smaller than SOIC
or 1206-size parts on
this board. The large
capacitor has not been
fitted in this photo.
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Silicon Chip
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Make sure that you have the PCB
coded 09111254; this and the board
for the other Decoder are the same
dimensions and have the same mounting holes. Refer to the Fig.3 overlay
diagram in this case.
Start with IC2 and IC3, since they
have large underbody pads that need
to be soldered to the PCB. We find it
easiest to temporarily hold these
parts in place using a high-
temperature tape, such as Kapton. Make sure the pins are
over the correct pads and the
part is orientated correctly,
then add flux and flow a generous amount of solder
through the hole from
the underside.
Check that the chips
are aligned and firmly
held by the solder
before attempting to
solder the remaining pins. Apply
flux to the pads for
the remaining SMD
parts and fit IC1
next, ensuring that
its pin 1 aligns with
the marker. Tack one
lead to start. Check
that the remaining
pins are aligned with
their pads and flat
against the PCB before soldering them.
Next, solder the SMD capacitors;
there are three 100nF parts and two of
1μF. The latter are adjacent to IC2 and
IC3. Note that the 100nF marking on
the silkscreen near REG1 indicates two
parts, one to its left and one to its right.
The larger 0.1W resistors are also
near IC2 and IC3, so solder these next.
The remaining SMD parts are the 11
smaller M3216 (1206) size resistors.
Below the pair of 100nF capacitors,
there are pairs of 10kW and 1kW resistors as shown. With the SMD parts
complete, you clean up any flux residue on the board (eg, using alcohol
and a lint-free cloth).
Now you can move on to the
through-hole parts. The five 1N5819
diodes all face the same way, with
their cathodes to the right. Similarly,
the two LEDs can be fitted flush against
the PCB with their cathodes to the
right; LED1 is green and LED2 is red.
Snap the two tactile switches into
place and solder them. The 100W 1W
resistor can be spaced slightly (about
2mm) above the PCB to help with air
movement for cooling.
Join the three-way screw terminals
CON1 and CON2 via the moulded
dovetails before slotting them into
place. The two-way screw terminals
(CON3 and CON4) are fitted separately. Make sure that the cable entries
to the terminals are accessible from the
edges of the PCB.
Next fit REG1 and the two 100μF
capacitors near it. Solder the jumper
header JP2 in place and leave the shunt
off for now. The remaining headers
(CON7, CON8 and CON9) might not
be needed, so fit those as needed and
to suit.
Finally, solder the larger capacitor
in place. If you are using a 4700μF
part, bend the leads over and lay it
over the top of the remaining components, towards CON5. If you are using
a smaller part (for example, to power
slow-motion point machines), it can
be fitted vertically.
Servo-type Decoder assembly
This version is assembled on the
PCB coded 09111255 and with the
help of overlay diagram Fig.4. Apply
flux to the SMD parts and put the tiny
MSOP-8 REG1 in place with its pin 1
marker at upper left, near the REG1
designator. Tack one lead, verify that
the placement is still good, then solder
the remainder. If you get a bridge, add
extra flux and use the braid to draw
away the excess solder.
Follow with IC1; its pin 1 is also at
upper left. The remaining SMD parts
are passives. There are two 100nF
capacitors and three 1μF capacitors,
plus 13 resistors. The single inductor
might need a bit more heat to solder
properly since it is larger and has more
thermal mass. It’s best to put some flux
paste on its pads before placing it.
These components are all individually marked on the PCB; none of them
are polarised. Clean off any excess flux
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* servo wire colours may vary
Fig.4: the switchmode
regulator is in a tiny MSOP8 package and should be
soldered first. You should find
the remaining components
straightforward after that.
Check the pinout of your servo
motors before connecting, since
we have seen some that use a
different pin order.
before fitting the through-hole parts
and allow the solvent to evaporate.
Next, solder the six through-hole
diodes and two LEDs. Apart from D6,
all these components have cathodes
facing to the right of the PCB. D6’s
cathode is towards the top of the PCB.
Snap in the four tactile switches and
solder them, then follow with the three
100μF capacitors.
Now mount both two-way screw
terminals, CON5 and CON6, making
sure that the cable entries face away
from the PCB. The jumper header
(JP3) and three-way headers (CON1CON4) should be fitted next, followed
by CON7, CON8 and CON9 if needed.
Leave the shunt off the jumper for now.
Microcontroller programming
If you have purchased a chip or kit
from the Silicon Chip shop, microcontroller IC1 (for both boards) will
already be programmed with the correct firmware. Make sure you choose
the correct variant at the time of purchase. You can skip forward to the
section on testing.
To apply power, use CON5 since it
is followed by the bridge rectifier (D1D4) and the polarity will not matter. A
9V battery is a fairly safe option and
should cause LED1 to light up when
connected.
Connect a programmer (Snap, PICkit
4, PICkit 5 or PICkit BASIC) to CON8;
be sure to align pin 1 (with the >
marker) to the matching marker on the
programmer and use the Microchip
IPE program to upload (program) and
verify the appropriate HEX file (see
the parts list for the code).
Testing
The pushbutton controls mean that
both boards can be quite thoroughly
tested with little more than a suitable
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power supply. It doesn’t even need
to be a DCC system. If you want to be
cautious, try a 9V battery or a current-
limited (100mA) 12V supply such as
a bench PSU. Connect it to CON6,
observing the polarity.
On either board, LED1 should light
up to indicate when power is applied.
You can probe for the other expected
voltages relative to circuit ground (eg,
the – terminal of CON6). You should
see 5V (4.9-5.1V) on pin 2 of CON8,
the ICSP header. This pin is next to the
one marked with a chevron.
If all is well, you can now connect
a more powerful supply (or your DCC
system) and your motors. Fig.5 shows
wiring examples for different types
of point motors. The most typical
connection will be to wire the main
DCC track output from a base station
(“MAIN” on our DCC Base Station) to
CON5. Since a DCC signal is effectively
AC, the polarity is not important.
Pressing one of S1, S2, S3 or S4
should cause the corresponding
(CON1, CON2, CON3 or CON4) output
to activate for a quarter of a second.
Pressing the same switch a second time
should activate the alternate action.
For example, repeated presses on
S4 should cause a servo motor connected to CON4 to toggle between its
two pre-programmed positions. From
this, you can see that the Accessory
Decoders are quite useful, even without a DCC system connected. Bridging
the respective pins on CON9 to ground
should have the same effect.
DCC operation
By default, the DCC accessory
addresses correspond to the connectors. So CON1 will respond to address
1, CON2 to address 2 and so forth. For
our testing, we used our DigiTrax system and the JMRI software, as well
July 2026 75
as our own DCC Base Station. JMRI
is an open-source project that works
on Windows, macOS and Linux – see
www.jmri.org
There are many options for hardware to interface JMRI to a layout,
including commercial systems that
have a computer interface. In our January 2020 DCC project (siliconchip.au/
Article/12220), we used the DCC++
BaseStation sketch. It can be found
at https://github.com/DccPlusPlus/
BaseStation
It’s also possible to use a bare Arduino Uno (programmed with the DCC++
BaseStation sketch) to generate logic-
level DCC signals. We used this to
quickly test JMRI’s operation with the
Accessory Decoders. To do the same,
install JMRI and configure your programmed Uno as the DCC interface by
setting the connection name to DCC++
and the serial port to that allocated to
the Uno.
Fig.6 shows the wiring needed to
feed the signal into an Accessory
Decoder and also supply it with power.
You will need a suitable DC power supply that is capable of sharing ground
with the Uno and thus your computer.
Either Accessory Decoder can be used
this way.
The JMRI DecoderPro program provides a few useful windows under the
Actions Menu. The Turnout Control
window can be seen in Screen 2. Enter
the address number (1-4 by default)
and then press Thrown or Closed to
operate the outputs.
When a command is received (that
the decoder should respond to), LED2
will flash for 200ms. If the activation is
delayed (due to the capacitor charging
or round-robin sequencing), LED2 will
emit another very brief flash when the
output is ultimately activated.
The Single CV Programmer (Screen
1) can also be used to set the configuration variables. Set the lower radio
button to “Ops Accessory Byte” and
the upper radio button to “Accessory Address”. Enter the Accessory
Decoder address (lower text box) and
fill in the CV and Value fields before
pressing the “Write CV” button.
We have locked out the ability to
program addresses (CV1 and CV9) to
ensure that they cannot be inadvertently changed. Since these CVs also
need to be accessed through their own
address, it can be messy to do it this
way. We will discuss how these can
be changed shortly.
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Silicon Chip
Fig.5: We found snap-type motors (a & b) to be the most difficult to get working.
You may need to adjust the motor and points to ensure that they are moving as
freely as possible. Points with integrated motors (c) worked well. Many slowmotion motors (d) have extra switch contacts, which can be ignored or used for
other purposes, such as operating signal lights. For loads like LEDs, make sure
that the polarity is correct (e).
If you have a Servo-type Decoder, we
recommend changing CV3 to 0 so that
the outputs are always driven. Then
the servos will immediately respond to
changes in CV33 and CV34 if the output has already been set to thrown or
closed, respectively. CV3 should also
be 0 for slow-motion motors that can
be constantly powered.
For a Snap-type Decoder, CV3
should be set long enough to ensure
that the points are thrown, but not so
long that the coil overheats. The points
motor manual should provide guidance on this.
If you have your own DCC system,
it should have instructions on how to
work with accessory decoders.
CV35 on the first output only can
be changed to configure a Snap-type
Decoder to have two full-bridge outputs or four open-drain outputs. The
values are 2 for the full-bridge outputs
and 4 for the open-drain outputs. The
Snap-type Decoder will not accept any
other values for CV35.
With four open-drain outputs, the
outputs follow the numbering shown
next to CON1 and CON2, with outputs
1 and 2 coming from CON1 and outputs 3 and 4 coming from CON2. The
output is on (sinking current) while
the “throw” output is active, so it can
be turned off by setting the “close”
Screen 1: DecoderPro’s Single CV
Programmer (also under the Actions
menu) can be used with both mobile
and stationary decoders. Select Ops
Accessory Byte as the mode and then
Accessory address before entering the
address, CV and value.
Screen 2: JMRI’s DecoderPro
program has several tools for
interfacing with accessory
decoders. The Turnout
Control (found in the Actions
menu) opens the window
here, which can be used to
manually operate accessory
decoders.
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Fig.6: an Arduino Uno can be used to generate logic
level DCC signals, which can then be passed to the
Accessory Decoder using this wiring. The DC power
supply needs to be capable of sharing ground with
the Uno and computer it is connected to.
output. It can also switch off due to
the timer expiring.
Due to the operation of the DRV8231,
these aren’t true open-drain outputs. If,
for example, output 1 is on and output
2 is off, output 1 will be driven low (to
ground), while output 2 will be driven
high (to the voltage on the COM+ pins).
However, this shouldn’t be a problem
for loads like lamps or LEDs.
We did note a small leakage current
from the outputs, so sensitive loads
like LEDs might benefit from a resistor
across their leads to shunt this current.
Inductive loads like relays should also
be fine, since the DRV8231 has internal clamp diodes.
DCC Base Station
software update
We’ve updated our DCC Base Station from January 2026 (siliconchip.
au/Article/19558) to allow control of
accessory decoders. There is an extra
screen (accessed from a new AC button on the main screen) that can be
used for operation. An extra button
has also been added to the CV programming page.
Copying the file 0911125A.UF2 to
Pico 2 on the DCC Base Station will
add these features. Note that loading a
different firmware (new to old or old to
new) will invalidate the Base Station’s
configuration. Thus, it’s a good idea to
record the calibration parameters from
the Settings page before reflashing the
Pico so they can be easily reinstated
afterwards.
If you find it difficult to access the
BOOTSEL button, try connecting to its
USB serial port (with a terminal program) at 1200 baud; this is the method
the Arduino IDE uses to enter the bootloader. If you run into problems after
loading the new firmware, try clearing
Screen 3: the updated version of our DCC Base Station
Firmware has a page for controlling accessory decoders; its
simple interface is shown here.
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the flash with the flash_nuke.UF2 firmware image, then load it again.
Screen 3 shows the new screen. It is
quite simple and just contains a button to select the accessory decoder
address. This opens a numeric keypad for number entry. The buttons
for THROW and CLOSE will activate
the corresponding outputs on the
addressed decoder. We have tested
this with our own Decoders and also
a commercial Rokuhan decoder; all
worked as expected.
Screen 4 is the updated CV programming screen. A new ACC button has
been added to provide programming
for accessory decoders. This works
on the MAIN track output (operations
mode) of the base station and uses the
accessory decoder address entered on
the AC screen. Being on the MAIN
track means that there is no readback
– only writing is possible.
To avoid corrupting addresses, the
accessory decoder addresses cannot be
set via their CVs. Instead, you should
use the I2C Controller board or follow
the instructions in the next section.
Our Accessory Decoders also support
being reset (all CVs to default values)
by programming a value of 8 into CV 8;
this will, of course, change the address
back to its default value.
Addressing
The default addresses will work fine
for testing, but may need to be changed
if you are using more than one Accessory Decoder board, since they would
all be on the same addresses otherwise. Fitting the shunt to the jumper
sets up address programming mode;
the section below assumes the shunt
is fitted.
Screen 4: the new ACC button on the programming page of
the DCC Base Station allows CV programming of accessory
decoders on the MAIN track output.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 77
Parts List – Accessory Decoders
Snap-type Accessory Decoder
1 42 × 70mm double-sided PCB coded 09111254
2 3-way 5-5.08mm/0.2-inch pitch screw terminal blocks (CON1 & CON2)
2 2-way 5-5.08mm/0.2-inch pitch screw terminal blocks (CON5 & CON6)
1 4-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch polarised header or similar (CON7)
1 5-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch right-angled pin header
(CON8; optional, for ICSP)
1 3-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch right-angled pin header
(CON9; optional, for external switches)
1 2-pin 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch header and jumper shunt (JP2)
2 6 × 6mm tactile switches (S1, S2)
mounting hardware to suit installation
(eg, 3mm machine screws and spacers)
glue to secure the 4700μF capacitor
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18146-I/SO microcontroller programmed with 0911125P.HEX,
wide SOIC-20 (IC1)
2 DRV8231DDAR motor driver ICs, SOIC-8 (IC2, IC3)
1 78L05 regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
5 1N5819 schottky diodes (D1-D5)
1 green 3mm LED (LED1)
1 red 3mm LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 4700μF 25V electrolytic (optional for Snap-type motors)
2 100μF 25V electrolytic
2 1μF 25V X7R SMD M3216/1206-size MLCCs
3 100nF 50V X7R SMD M3216/1206-size MLCCs
Resistors (all SMD M3216/1206-size ±1% ¼W except as noted)
2 100kW
5 10kW
1 3kW
3 1kW
1 100W ±5% 1W axial
2 0.1W 2W SMD M6331/2512-size
Servo-type Accessory Decoder
1 42 × 70mm double-sided PCB coded 09111255
4 3-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch right-angle pin headers (CON1-CON4)
2 2-way 5-5.08mm/0.2-inch pitch screw terminal blocks (CON5 & CON6)
1 4-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch polarised header or similar (CON7)
1 5-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch right-angle pin header
(CON8; optional, for ICSP)
1 5-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch right-angle pin header
(CON9; optional, for external switches)
1 2-pin 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch header and jumper shunt (JP3)
1 22μH 1.3A 6 × 6mm SMD inductor (L1) [eg, NRS6028T220M]
4 6 × 6mm tactile switches (S1-S4)
mounting hardware to suit installation
(eg, 3mm machine screws and spacers)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18146-I/SO microcontroller programmed with 0911125V.HEX,
wide SOIC-20 (IC1)
1 MCP16311(T)-E/MS buck regulator, MSOP-8 (REG1)
6 1N5819 schottky diodes (D1-D6)
1 green 3mm LED (LED1)
1 red 3mm LED (LED2)
Capacitors
3 100μF 25V electrolytic
3 1μF 25V X7R SMD M3216/1206-size MLCCs
2 100nF 50V X7R SMD M3216/1206-size MLCCs
Resistors (all SMD M3216/1206-size ±1% ¼W)
2 100kW
1 56kW
4 10kW
2 1kW
4 470W
78
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The pushbutton switches also influence this mode and will not operate
the outputs while the shunt is fitted.
In this state, the Accessory Decoder
will record the address of the first
accessory packet that it sees three
times in a row.
The first output (which defaults to
address 1) will take on this address.
The second output will take on the
next address and so forth. Addresses
wrap above 2048, so if 2046 is sent
to the Servo-type Decoder while
the shunt is set (and S1-S4 are not
pressed), CON1 to CON4 will be set
to respond to addresses 2046, 2047,
2048 and 1, respectively.
Holding one of S1-S4 will program
just the corresponding output to the
address seen on the DCC bus. When
the jumper is set, LED2 will light up for
a second when a valid action occurs.
Pressing S1 and S2 together while
the shunt is in will force a reset of all
outputs to the CVs and values shown
in Table 1.
For our DigiTrax system, we had
to push the accessory button twice
to ensure enough packets were sent,
since it only sends two packets per
action. Note that this arrangement
means that you do not need to know if
the addressing used by your system is
linear or otherwise, since the bit patterns are all that is matched.
Mounting
The Accessory Decoders have four
mounting holes to suit 3mm hardware, and we expect many readers
will mount the Decoders underneath a
baseboard or control panel. You might
like to use the bare PCB or the overlay diagram (which is to scale) as a jig
to mark mounting holes. The centres
are at 36.5mm and 64.5mm spacings.
Summary
If you wish to use the I2C Controller to monitor the Accessory Decoders
and change their CVs, there is further
detail (including screenshots) in that
project article. With this article, we
now have a fairly complete DIY DCC
system, including mobile decoders,
stationary decoders, a base station and
numerous other items!
We plan to round that off in the
future with a miniature destination
display that can be installed within
model trains and controlled by our
previously described microDCC
SC
Decoder.
siliconchip.com.au
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER, 28mm SQUARE SPADE
↳ 21mm SQUARE PIN
↳ 5mm PITCH SIL
↳ MINI SOT-23
↳ STANDALONE D2PAK SMD
↳ STANDALONE TO-220 (70μm COPPER)
RASPBERRY PI CLOCK RADIO MAIN PCB
↳ DISPLAY PCB
MICROPHONE PREAMPLIFIER
↳ EMBEDDED VERSION
RAILWAY POINTS CONTROLLER TRANSMITTER
↳ RECEIVER
LASER COMMUNICATOR TRANSMITTER
↳ RECEIVER
PICO DIGITAL VIDEO TERMINAL
↳ FRONT PANEL FOR ALTRONICS H0190 (BLACK)
↳ FRONT PANEL FOR ALTRONICS H0191 (BLACK)
ARDUINO FOR ARDUINIANS (PACK OF SIX PCBS)
↳ PROJECT 27 PCB
WII NUNCHUK RGB LIGHT DRIVER (BLACK)
SKILL TESTER 9000
PICO GAMER
ESP32-CAM BACKPACK
WIFI DDS FUNCTION GENERATOR
10MHz to 1MHz / 1Hz FREQUENCY DIVIDER (BLUE)
FAN SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
ESR TEST TWEEZERS (SET OF FOUR, WHITE)
DC SUPPLY PROTECTOR (ADJUSTABLE SMD)
↳ ADJUSTABLE THROUGH-HOLE
↳ FIXED THROUGH-HOLE
USB-C SERIAL ADAPTOR (BLACK)
AUTOMATIC LQ METER MAIN
AUTOMATIC LQ METER FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
180-230V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
STYLOCLONE (CASE VERSION)
↳ STANDALONE VERSION
DUAL MINI LED DICE (THROUGH-HOLE LEDs)
↳ SMD LEDs
GUITAR PICKGUARD (FENDER JAZZ BASS)
↳ J&D T-STYLE BASS
↳ MUSIC MAN STINGRAY BASS
↳ FENDER TELECASTER
COMPACT OLED CLOCK & TIMER
USB MIXED-SIGNAL LOGIC ANALYSER (PicoMSA)
DISCRETE IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER (TH)
↳ SMD VERSION
MICROMITE EXPLORE-40 (BLUE)
PICO BACKPACK AUDIO BREAKOUT (with conns.)
8-CHANNEL LEARNING IR REMOTE (BLUE)
3D PRINTER FILAMENT DRYER
DUAL-RAIL LOAD PROTECTOR
VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE Mk2 (BLACK)
FLEXIDICE (RED, PAIR OF PCBs)
SURF SOUND SIMULATOR (BLUE)
COMPACT HIFI HEADPHONE AMP (BLUE)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGER
PICO COMPUTER
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
↳ PWM AUDIO MODULE
DIGITAL CAPACITANCE METER
5MHZ 40A CURRENT PROBE (BLACK)
BATTERY MODEL RAILWAY TRANSMITTER
↳ THROUGH-HOLE (TH) RECEIVER
↳ SMD RECEIVER
↳ CHARGER
USB PROGRAMMABLE FREQUENCY DIVIDER
HIGH-BANDWIDTH DIFFERENTIAL PROBE
NFC IR KEYFOB TRANSMITTER
POWER LCR METER
WAVEFORM GENERATOR
PICO 2 AUDIO ANALYSER (BLACK)
PICO/2/COMPUTER
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
DATE
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
DEC23
JAN24
JAN24
FEB24
FEB24
FEB24
FEB24
MAR24
MAR24
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MAY24
MAY24
JUN24
JUN24
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JUN24
JUN24
JUL24
JUL24
JUL24
AUG24
AUG24
AUG24
AUG24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
SEP24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
OCT24
NOV24
NOV24
NOV24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
DEC24
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
JAN25
FEB25
FEB25
FEB25
MAR25
MAR25
MAR25
APR25
APR25
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PCB CODE
18101241
18101242
18101243
18101244
18101245
18101246
19101241
19101242
01110231
01110232
09101241
09101242
16102241
16102242
07112231
07112232
07112233
SC6903
SC6904
16103241
08101241
08104241
07102241
04104241
04112231
10104241
SC6963
08106241
08106242
08106243
24106241
CSE240203A
CSE240204A
11104241
23106241
23106242
08103241
08103242
23109241
23109242
23109243
23109244
19101231
04109241
18108241
18108242
07106241
07101222
15108241
28110241
18109241
11111241
08107241/2
01111241
01103241
9047-01
07112234
07112235
07112238
04111241
9049-01
09110241
09110242
09110243
09110244
04108241
9015-D
15109231
04103251
04104251
04107231
07104251
07104252/3
Price
$2.00
$2.00
$2.00
$1.00
$3.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$20.00
$7.50
$20.00
$15.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$15.00
$10.00
$12.50
$2.50
$2.50
$10.00
$10.00
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$10.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$10.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
ROTATING LIGHT (BLACK)
433MHZ TRANSMITTER
VERSATILE BATTERY CHECKER
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK, 0.8mm)
TOOL SAFETY TIMER
RGB LED ANALOG CLOCK (BLACK)
USB POWER ADAPTOR (BLACK, 1mm)
HWS SOLAR DIVERTER PCB & INSULATING PANELS
SSB SHORTWAVE RECEIVER PCB SET
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
433MHz RECEIVER
SMARTPROBE
↳ SWD PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
DUCTED HEAT TRANSFER CONTROLLER
↳ TEMPERATURE SENSOR ADAPTOR
↳ CONTROL PANEL
MIC THE MOUSE (PCB SET, WHITE)
USB-C POWER MONITOR (PCB SET, INCLUDES FFC)
HOME AUTOMATION SATELLITE
PICKIT BASIC POWER BREAKOUT
DUAL TRAIN CONTROLLER TRANSMITTER
DIGITAL PREAMPLIFIER MAIN PCB (4 LAYERS)
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL
↳ POWER SUPPLY
VACUUM CONTROLLER MAIN PCB
↳ BLAST GATE ADAPTOR
POWER RAIL PROBE
RGB LED STAR
EARTH RADIO
DCC DECODER
DCC BASE STATION MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
REMOTE SPEAKER SWITCH
↳ CONTROL PANEL
DCC REMOTE CONTROLLER
MAINS HUM NOTCH FILTER
MAINS LED INDICATOR
DCC BOOSTER / REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
↳ FRONT PANEL
SOLAR PANEL PROTECTOR (WHITE)
GRAPHING THERMOMETER
PICOSDR CONTROL PCB
↳ RF PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
DCC/DC STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER
CALLIOPE AMPLIFIER
MICROMITE AUDIO PLAYER ADD-ON
↳ ALL-IN-ONE
μDCC DECODER
SIMPLE LC METER
WIFI ALARM MONITOR
POWER AMPLIFIER CLIPPING INDICATOR
PINBALL MACHINE CONTROL BOARD
↳ POWER SUPPLY
↳ PLAYER LED BOARD
↳ SCORE LED BOARD
↳ LED OUTPUT BOARD
↳ BUMPER LED BOARD
↳ CASCADE LED BOARD
↳ SWITCH INPUT BOARD
↳ GENERAL INPUT BOARD
↳ HIGH-CURRENT INTERFACE
↳ ROLLOVER INTERFACE
↳ BUMPER DRIVER
SSB TRANSMITTER (MikeOne/Two/Three)
SIMPLE USB POWER MONITOR
HUMAN COMFORT INDICATOR
DATE
APR25
APR25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
MAY25
JUN25
JUN25
JUN25
JUN25
JUL25
JUL25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
AUG25
SEP25
SEP25
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OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
OCT25
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DEC25
DEC25
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JAN26
JAN26
FEB26
FEB26
FEB26
MAR26
MAR26
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MAR26
APR26
APR26
APR26
APR26
APR26
APR26
APR26
MAY26
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MAY26
MAY26
JUN26
JUN26
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JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
JUN26
PCB CODE
Price
09101251
$2.50
15103251
$2.50
11104251
$5.00
11104252
$7.50
10104251
$5.00
19101251
$15.00
18101251
$2.50
18110241
$20.00
CSE250202-3 $15.00
CSE250204 $7.50
15103252
$2.50
P9054-04
$5.00
P9045-A
$2.50
17101251
$10.00
17101252
$2.50
17101253
$2.50
SC7528
$7.50
SC7527
$7.50
15104251
$3.50
18106251
$2.00
09110245
$3.00
01107251
$30.00
01107252
$2.50
01107253
$7.50
10109251
$10.00
10109252
$2.50
P9058-1-C
$5.00
16112251
$12.50
06110251
$5.00
09111241
$2.50
09111243
$5.00
09111244
$5.00
01106251
$5.00
01106252
$2.50
09111245
$5.00
01003261
$7.50
10111251
$2.50
09111248
$5.00
09111249
$5.00
17112251
$7.50
04102261
$3.00
CSE251101 $5.00
CSE251102 $5.00
CSE251103 $7.50
09111242
$2.00
01111212
$5.00
01110251
$2.50
01110252
$5.00
09111247
$1.50
04103261
$2.50
01304261
$2.50
01104261
$15.00
08107261
$25.00
08107262
$7.50
08107263
$2.50
08107264
$5.00
08107265
$2.50
08107266
$5.00
08107267
$5.00
08107268
$2.50
08107269
$2.50
08107260
$2.50
08117261
$2.50
08117262
$5.00
06103261
$2.50
04104261
$5.00
21105261
$5.00
ADJUSTABLE ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL PCB
SNAP-TYPE DCC ACCESSORY DECODER
↳ SERVO-TYPE
I2C CONTROLLER
JUL26
JUL26
JUL26
JUL26
JUL26
04105261
04105262
09111254
09111255
09111256
NEW PCBs
$7.50
$5.00
$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
We also sell the Silicon Chip PDFs on USB, RTV&H USB, Vintage Radio USB and more at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
By Tim Blythman
μDCC Decoder
Accessory Decoder
I2C Controller
2
I C Controller
Destination Display
for DCC Accessory Decoders
Programming accessory decoders can be tricky, even though the
standards provide for it, since not all base stations provide the capability.
This small board makes it easy to program our DCC Accessory Decoders.
It only requires power and two signal lines on an I2C bus, so it could be a
handy device for other projects that need a simple user interface.
A
s we noted in the DCC Accessory Decoders article, it can be tricky to program accessory decoders. They
are usually permanently wired to the
main track circuit, so they can only
be programmed in ‘operations mode’.
There are means for bidirectional
communication in operations mode
(to read back and verify programmed
values), but that requires extra hardware, both on the decoder and on the
base station.
Providing a display and user controls for each Accessory Decoder
would make this much easier, but that
would be a waste as it would sit idle
most of the time and you’d need one
per decoder. It would also make the
Decoder larger, harder to build and
more expensive.
This I2C Controller is a simple
removable device that provides a display and some buttons. One Controller
can be used to set up several Accessory Decoders, one at a time, then be
put aside for future use. We also think
that the I2C Controller might come in
handy for other projects that require
a similar interface.
In this article, we’ll describe the I2C
Controller and its construction. We’ll
also detail how it can be used with the
DCC Accessory Decoders described
elsewhere in this issue, including programming their CVs and monitoring
their operation.
Circuit details
The circuit of the I2C Controller is
shown in Fig.1. CON1 is a four-way
header that has the SCL and SDA I2C
signals, plus ground and power. This
connects to a matching header on
the DCC Accessory Decoder (or other
device that needs a control interface).
The Decoder provides power and
acts as an I2C master. LED2 is simply
a power indicator LED with a 1kW
series resistor.
The I2C Controller provides several I2C slave interfaces that can be
controlled by the master. The first of
these is an OLED module, MOD1. It
contains a display controller IC, a 3.3V
regulator (for the display controller)
and pullups from the SDA and SCL
lines to 3.3V.
IC1 is a PCF8574 (or PCF8574A) I2C
IO expander (IC1); this also connects
to the I2C bus at its pins 14 and 15. IC1
is powered from the supply at pins 8
and 16. These are bypassed by a 100nF
capacitor. Three pins (1, 2 and 3) are
pulled low to set the I2C sub-address of
DCC PROJECT KITS
Snap-type Accessory Decoder (SC7685, $40)
includes the PCB and all onboard parts, including the electrolytic capacitor
Servo-type Accessory Decoder (SC7686, $40)
includes the PCB and all required onboard parts
I2C Controller (SC7690, $30)
includes all the parts in the parts list overleaf
80
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
IC1 to zero. This means that a PCF8574
will appear on address 0x20 and a
PCF8574A on address 0x38.
Eight of the remaining pins are
designated as quasi-bidirectional I/O
pins. In practice, these are open-drain
outputs with weak internal pullups.
The chip also implements a pullup
accelerator that briefly applies a stronger pullup as the open-drain output is
switched off. Pin 13 (INT) is an output
that is triggered on an I/O state change
and is not used here.
The open-drain arrangement means
that the pins can be safely pulled to
ground without causing a conflict.
IC1 has commands to read its I/O pin
state and to control its open-drain outputs. Switches S1-S4 are connected
between the I/O pins and ground, so
a switch closure is detected as a low
level by IC1.
LED1 is a two-pin bicolour LED,
with each lead connected to another
of IC1’s pins. They are also pulled up
to the supply by 1kW resistors. When
one of LED1’s leads is taken low by IC1,
current flows into the resistor on the
other lead and out via the grounded
pin. Current is also wasted on the
other resistor, which is now directly
connected across the supply.
Still, by taking one or the other pins
low, either the red or green element in
LED1 can be lit up. Taking both pins
low means that they are at the same
potential and no current flows through
the LED, holding it off.
Helpfully, the wiring of CON1 is the
same as the I2C OLED modules that we
use, so the two can be interchanged to
a degree. Be careful, though; we have
seen some I2C OLED modules with
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: this board does little more than break out an I/O expander IC connected
to some pushbuttons and a bicolour LED along with an OLED module.
swapped power and ground connections!
For example, an OLED module can
be plugged in where an I2C Controller
is expected, and the display will work
as intended. The default display is a
status information screen that can be
viewed without the pushbuttons needing to be pressed.
Since the pinouts are identical,
other projects or devices that use an
I2C OLED module could be reprogrammed to access the I/O expander
chip to add extra inputs (S1-S4) to an
existing interface.
Having said that, note that the
PCF8574 and PCF8574A parts have
different I2C timing requirements to
the OLED module’s display controller.
So the I2C Controller may not work in
place of a bare OLED module unless
the firmware takes account of this.
Options
We have marked the PCB to suit a
polarised header so that the I2C Controller and Accessory Decoders can
be connected by flying leads without
a risk of reversed connections. However, you might prefer a different plug
and socket arrangement.
For example, it might be just as easy
to hard-wire a flying lead (with plug)
directly to the Controller, since there
will be little need to detach the lead
from the Controller. Our early prototypes used a simple header plug and
socket arrangement.
pin 1 indicator lines up with the mark
on the board. Tack one lead and check
that the other leads are on their pads,
then solder the remaining leads and
after that, refresh the first lead.
Next, solder the three resistors and
one capacitor; none of these are polarised. Clean off the flux residue and
allow the board to dry.
Now fit the four switches, making
sure their bodies are flat against the
PCB, then mount LED2 with its cathode to the left as shown. LED1 has
the red element’s cathode as marked.
Use a multimeter on diode mode to
check the orientation before installing it. When this LED lights up red
on a tester, the negative lead (usually
black) is connected to the cathode of
the red element.
When trimming the leads of the
LEDs, put the offcuts aside. Attach the
pin header to the OLED module if necessary, then solder it in place, being
sure to leave a small space between it
and the parts below. A piece of card
could be used as a temporary spacer.
Finally, use the offcuts to secure the
lower mounting pads in the OLED
module to the PCB below using solder.
You can test the I2C Controller by
applying 3.3-5V between the G (negative) and V (positive) connections.
If LED2 lights up, everything is working as well as can be tested without
an external microcontroller driving
the I2C bus.
Wiring harness
The photo overleaf shows how the
harness is assembled; we recommend
it be no more than 10cm in length.
Remember that I2C is short for inter-
integrated circuit and is designed to
cover short distances within a PCB.
Both ends are wired the same, and
the colour code we have used matches
black for GND and red for V, so there
are also some visual cues to ensure it
is not wired up incorrectly.
Fig.2: both the decoders
and I2C Controller
are marked with their
pin layouts, but we’ve
chosen a polarised
cable to ensure that
the boards are always
connected correctly. The
OLED module is fitted
last and sits over the
other components. We
designed this board to
interface with the DCC
Accessory Decoders
(elsewhere in this
issue), but it could
be a handy addition
to any project that
needs a simple user
interface.
Construction
Referring to Fig.2, the overlay diagram, apply flux paste to the pads for
the SMD parts. Place IC1, ensuring its
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 81
Use the headers and lead offcuts to
space the OLED module off the PCB
and clear of the parts below.
We used the colour coding shown
here (matching our prototype) but
it isn’t critical since the plugs are
polarised. The two ends can
be interchanged without any
problems.
How to use it
As shown in Fig.2, connect the I2C Controller to CON7 of the
DCC Accessory Decoder (based on a
PCB coded 09111254 or 09111255) and
power up your DCC system.
Both LEDs and the OLED screen
should light up. LED1 should be green
after a second or two, and the OLED
will display something like Screen 1; it
will be slightly different on the Servo-
type Decoder.
In general, buttons S3 and S4 (left
and right) cycle through the screens,
while S1 and S2 (down and up) edit
the values on the screen. Pressing S3
and S4 together resets the OLED display controller; try this if the display
is corrupted.
Screen 1 is a status screen, useful for
monitoring the Accessory Decoder’s
operation. As mentioned before, this
will appear if you just plug an OLED
screen in too.
The second line is only present on
the Snap-type Decoder and shows
the voltages on the motor supply
before and after the 100W resistor. The
screen will show VM OK and a green
LED1 if the 4700μF capacitor is fully
charged, or “VM --” and a red LED1
if it is charging. The servo motor supply rail voltage is shown by the Servo-
type Decoder.
The DCC text shows if DCC packets are being received, while the
last line shows the address of the
most recent accessory packet, or
dashes if none have been seen in
the last five seconds. These should
allow you to check that your DCC
base station is sending packets to the
expected addresses.
Pressing S4 will cycle to Screen 2,
showing the main mode. This screen
only affects the Snap-type Decoder
since the Servo-type Decoder is fixed
at four outputs. When two outputs are
selected, they are full-bridge types,
while the four outputs are open-drain
types. S1 or S2 can be used to change
this setting.
Screens 3-8 are repeated for each
output (1-4) and the output number is
shown at top left. These mostly allow
direct editing of the CVs (configuration variables). On these screens, S1
GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock
with long battery life
➡ Convert an ordinary wall clock into a highlyaccurate time keeping device (within
seconds).
➡ Nearly eight years of battery life with a
pair of C cells!
➡ Automatically adjusts for daylight saving
time.
➡ Track time with a VK2828U7G5LF GPS or D1
Mini WiFi module (select one as an option
with the kit; D1 Mini requires programming).
➡ Learn how to build it from the article in the
September 2022 issue of Silicon Chip (siliconchip.
au/Article/15466). Check out the article in the
November 2022 issue for how to use the D1 Mini WiFi
module with the Driver (siliconchip.au/Article/15550).
Complete kit available from $55 + postage (batteries & clock not included)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6472 – Catalog SC6472
82
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
and S2 increment by one, unless the
other button (S2 or S1) is held down;
this will increment by ten instead,
allowing you to reach the desired setting faster.
Screen 3 is the address, which can
be set from 1 to 2048. Multiple outputs
can be set to the same address so that
they respond to the same commands,
although this will not work with CV
programming packets.
Screen 4 sets the output runtime
in multiples of 10ms, so the top-right
value is the raw CV3 value, while the
lower value is the actual runtime. A
value of zero means the output runs
indefinitely, at least until its counterpart is activated.
Screens 5 and 6 set the pulse width
that is applied to the servo motors in
the Servo-type Decoder. If an output
is active and its CV3 is set to zero, the
servo position will update the output
in real-time to allow it to be easily
fine-tuned. Note that these screens are
not present on the Snap-type Decoder
since they would serve no purpose
there.
Screen 7 allows the manual operation of an output. This means that
it’s entirely possible to operate the
DCC Accessory Decoders using just
the I2C Controller, without a DCC
base station. Screen 8 is used to reset
the selected output’s CVs back to the
default values.
The Accessory Decoders have been
programmed to recognise when the
I2C Controller is connected, but we
recommend that it is only connected
or disconnected while the power is
switched off to the decoders. This
should help to avoid damage due to
stray voltages while the connection
is being made or broken.
Screen 1: the first screen shows status
information, meaning that even a bare
OLED module can be used to check
and monitor an Accessory Decoder.
Screen 2: the Snap-type Decoder can
be configured to have four open-drain
outputs on this page. All changes are
made by pressing S1 or S2.
Screen 3: like the other pages, the
values can be quickly changed by
holding down S1 while pressing S2
(or vice versa).
Screen 4: the runtime applies to all
decoders. When it is set to zero, the
output is on until the other output is
activated.
Screen 5: this screen sets the servo
pulse width for the THROW output;
values between 1000μs and 2000μs
(1ms and 2ms) are typical.
Screen 6: the servo pulse width setting
for the CLOSE output. The defaults
should give about 90° of movement,
but most constructors will need to trim
the values to suit their installation.
Screen 7: this screen allows manual
operation, giving yet another option
(besides the onboard pushbuttons)
for using the Decoders without a DCC
system.
Screen 8: each output can be set to
its defaults by pushing S1 or S2; this
includes the address, run time and
servo pulse widths.
Parts List – I2C Controller
The I2C Controller is little more
than a module with a few I2C devices
on it, so it should be easy to connect
to microcontrollers like Arduinos
and Micromites. As we mentioned,
the PCF8574(A) has different timing
requirements to the OLED modules,
so you might find you need to tweak
your bus speed to suit.
Using an I2C scanning program is
a good way to test whether the bus is
working correctly. The PCF8574(A)
should be seen on 7-bit addresses of
either 0x20 or 0x38 (32 or 56), while
the OLED modules are typically set
SC
to 0x3C (60).
1 57 × 40mm double-sided PCB coded 09111256
1 4-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch polarised header or similar (CON1)
[Jaycar HM3414, Altronics P5494]
1 1.3-inch OLED display module (MOD1) [Silicon Chip SC5026, SC6511]
4 6 × 6mm through-hole tactile switches (S1-S4)
Semiconductors
1 PCF8574 or PCF8574A I/O expander IC, wide SOIC-16 (IC1)
1 red/green 3mm bicolour LED (LED1)
1 green 3mm LED (LED2)
Capacitors/resistors
1 100nF 50V X7R M3216/1206-size SMD MLCC capacitor
3 1kW ¼W M3216/1206-size SMD resistors
Cable
2 4-way 2.54mm/0.1-inch pitch polarised header plugs with crimp pins
[Jaycar HM3404, Altronics P5474 + P5470A]
1 10cm length of 4-way ribbon cable OR
1 40cm length of light-duty hookup wire
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Using it with other projects
July 2026 83
Review by Tim Blythman
ALTIUM
DESIGNER 26
With each new year comes a new major version of the Altium Designer EDA
(electronics design automation) software. Now that we have had the chance to
use Altium Designer 26 for a while, we will detail what we have found.
L
ike much modern software, Altium
Designer sees frequent updates, so
the changes that we see are often
incremental improvements. For this
review, we are using Altium Designer
version 26.2.0. Our last review, in the
June 2025 issue, was of version 25.0.2
(siliconchip.au/Article/18307).
New minor versions appear about
monthly, so some of our observations
in this article will be of features that
first appeared after that review, including versions after Altium Designer
25.0.2.
In the Altium Designer 25 review,
we noted that Altium had been
acquired by Japanese semiconductor
company Renesas.
EDA (electronics design automation) software is best known for its
ability to design PCBs, but Altium
Designer has many features that go
beyond this, such as PCB CoDesign
and MCAD (mechanical computer-
aided design) integration.
CoDesign refers to being able to collaborate with other engineering disciplines; this is mostly managed through
Altium 365. MCAD typically relates to
project aspects such as enclosures and
similar hardware.
Over the last few years, we have
also seen the introduction of the Harness Designer (for the design of wiring harnesses) and support for 3D-MID
designs (three-dimensional mechatronic integrated devices). The 3D-MID
manufacturing process uses a custom
3D-printed substrate in place of a traditional 2D fibreglass substrate.
This means that the substrate which
forms the PCB can also be shaped to
work as an enclosure, making designs
84
Silicon Chip
more compact. We published a feature
on 3D-MID and similar technologies in
the April 2025 issue (siliconchip.au/
Article/17936).
Altium Designer 25 introduced the
ability to create designs using bare COB
(chip-on-board) silicon dies and bond
wires. Wire bonding allows COB dies
to be incorporated as components and
connected to the PCB by bond wires.
The Constraint Manager has also
been added to provide a unified, hierarchical way to manage the design
constraints of a project. Currently, it
is offered as an alternative to the older
PCB Design Rules. Existing projects
can be converted to use the Constraint
Manager.
Many new features are introduced
as optional features available only to
registered beta testers. Beta software
is mostly complete but may still have
minor bugs. After ‘beta testing’, the
features are made widely available but
can be disabled by an option switch
in the Advanced section of the Preferences menu.
If you can’t immediately find a
new feature, check to see that it is not
hidden as a beta or optional feature.
Some features may also be unavailable
depending on your license inclusions.
Licensing changes
Probably the biggest change to
coincide with Altium Designer 26 is
the way that subscriptions are being
licensed and bundled with other features. Roughly speaking, the new
Altium Develop product is comparable to a Standard or Pro license and is
intended for smaller teams. It includes
the Altium 365 cloud platform.
Australia's electronics magazine
Above this sits Altium Agile, consisting of the Teams and Enterprise
subcategories. Ultimately, the core
Altium Designer software remains
much the same, but the different product lines include different features and
tools for data management, such as
Altium 365. Fig.1 shows the web page
at www.altium.com that highlights the
different options.
We are a small team developing relatively simple designs, so we do not
need all of Altium Designer’s advanced
features. Some advanced tools are
aimed at things like compliance, traceability and security in heavily regulated fields such as medical electronics; these are well above our needs.
Logging into an Altium account is
now via a ‘unified login’ in a browser,
which also provides access to other
services such as the Altium 365 Workspace. Depending on your chosen
access method, this could include a
simple email address and password,
SSO (single sign-on) scheme, or twostep verification.
Altium Discover
Yet to launch at the time of writing is the recently announced Altium
Discover. This tool will take in a set
of project requirements and analyse
reference designs from manufacturers
to provide high-level design suggestions for components, such as chips
and modules, to help fulfil those
requirements (see www.altium.com/
discover).
The web page at www.altium.com/
capabilities/requirements suggests
that an AI assistant will be part of this
process, being used to analyse and
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the new
AD26 licensing
scheme. Altium
Develop and
Altium Agile
both incorporate
Altium Designer
and Altium 365.
The upcoming
Altium Discover
will suggest
project solutions
from design
requirements.
Fig.2: the Harness
Designer now
shows break
points in harness
diagrams where
necessary.
summarise the vast quantities of information that need to be reconciled in
developing a complex design.
With Altium owning the Octopart
parts database, such a tool would have
access to information such as availability, pricing and technical specifications to feed into these analyses.
The Manufacturer Part Search within
Altium Designer makes use of the
Octopart database; we often use this to
import new components to our library.
In our series on How to Design
PCBs, published in December 2025
to February 2026 (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/453), we work through the
steps needed to design and manufacture PCBs. In particular, we use Altium
Designer’s Schematic Editor and PCB
Editor for the design stages.
at www.altium.com/documentation/
altium-designer/new while upcoming features are highlighted at www.
altium.com/altium-designer/coming-
soon
In our Altium Designer 25 review,
we mentioned that the underlying
software was transitioned to the opensource .NET 6 framework. Starting with
version 26.10 of Altium Designer, this
has been updated to .NET 8, allowing
Altium Designer to benefit from newer
features in the framework, as well as
promising a performance increase.
This update means that Altium
Designer can no longer run on Windows 7 or Windows 8. As has been
the case in the past, newer versions of
Altium Designer can also be installed
alongside older versions.
AD26 overview
Improvements
We have previously noted Altium’s
focus on continuous improvement,
and Altium Designer 26 follows this
trend. The latest features can be found
Small but helpful updates have
appeared in Harness Designer, particularly in relation to the creation of
harness manufacturing drawings. This
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
includes automatic annotation of bundle lengths and the embedding of 3D
models. For bundles that cannot be
displayed at their true scale length, a
break symbol indicates this – see Fig.2.
Altium Designer has the ability to
import designs from other EDA tools,
which we find handy, since we occasionally need to process contributed
designs that have been developed
using other software. There are a
number of improvements noted in the
importing tools since our last review.
Fig.3 shows the Import Wizard and the
options that are available in Altium
Designer.
Solder mask expansion rules
We are also seeing continuous
improvement in the capabilities of
PCB manufacturers, and it makes
sense that these should be reflected in
Altium Designer’s behaviour. In particular, PCB manufacturers can achieve
smaller feature sizes and tighter tolerances. This will generally mean that
July 2026 85
Fig.3: the Import Wizard can handle
the file types shown here, and there
are many more options in the native
File → Open menu. It’s also possible
to add other importers for files
produced by tools such as KiCad.
Fig.4: these pads on an SSOP
(small shrink outline package) IC
with 0.65mm lead pitch show the
advantages of reducing solder mask
expansion in line with modern PCB
manufacturing capabilities. The
default 0.1mm expansion at left does
not allow solder mask between the
packs, while the zero solder mask
expansion at right provides the best
defence against bridging pads.
smaller designs and closer spacings
become more achievable (or cheaper!).
Over time, we have been able to
update our design rules with tighter
spacing and clearances where this is
necessary or helpful. Since we often
present our projects as kits, they are
intended for manual assembly, and
having appropriate solder mask coverage can be helpful for avoiding bridging between narrowly spaced leads.
Previously, some pins (especially
on small surface-mount parts) were so
closely spaced that it was not possible
to provide solder mask in the gap; the
so-called solder mask sliver between
the pads would have been thinner than
what the PCB manufacturer could reliably produce.
This is compounded because the tolerances of older processes dictated a
narrow margin between a pad and its
solder mask opening; this is the ‘solder mask expansion’ and Fig.4 shows
how this reduces the available space
between close pads.
It appears that many PCB manufacturers now use a LPI (Liquid Photo
Imageable) solder mask process, which
requires negligible solder mask expansion; this expansion is the border left
around a pad to ensure that the solder
mask does not encroach upon the pad
due to tolerances in the process.
So-called zero solder mask expansion is now possible and is the default
in IPC-7351B, the industry standard for surface-mount device land
Fig.7: being
able to add QR
codes and other
2D codes allows
more machinereadable
information
to be printed
on PCBs. This
can include
tracking codes
and product
identifiers.
86
Silicon Chip
patterns (footprints). As of Altium
Designer 26.1.0, the default solder
mask expansion rule has been set to
zero. Of course, this can be changed in
the rules if needed or manually set for
individual pad requirements.
ActiveBOM
The bill of materials (BOM) for a
project is an important document,
and Altium’s ActiveBOM is a tool for
managing this. We often use a simple spreadsheet-based BOM (which
Altium Designer can export) to ensure
our parts lists and kit listings are correct.
The BoM CoDesign feature is
intended to allow collaboration with
the purchasing and procurement
departments in relation to the PCB
BOM. This can provide live information about parts availability, alternatives and lead times from the Octopart database. Figs.5 & 6 show a typical BOM and its supply chain status.
QR codes
For a while now, Altium Designer
has been able to create 1D (linear)
barcodes as part of a PCB document.
These would typically be applied
to the silkscreen layer to act as
machine-readable identifiers for stock
and part management.
It’s now possible to add QR codes
and DataMatrix codes; these are two
different types of 2D codes that can be
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the BoM
CoDesign tool
can be used by
procurement
teams; there is
a more detailed
supply chain view
that can highlight
potential issues
with specific line
items.
Fig.6: the BoM
CoDesign tool
presents a range
of information
relating to part
options and
supply chain
availability.
used to encode more data than a linear barcode. Fig.7 shows a QR code
being instantly generated to encode
the PCB code on one of our PCBs. We
delved into QR codes while reviewing
a tiny QR code reader module in the
February 2026 issue (siliconchip.au/
Article/19663).
Free stuff
Altium Designer still offers a free
trial at www.altium.com/altium-
designer/free-trial/roadmap although
this page also notes that the website
is being updated, so this may change
in the future. Altium CircuitMaker
(www.altium.com/circuitmaker) is
also free to use.
CircuitMaker is an EDA tool aimed
siliconchip.com.au
at hobbyists and makers. It is built on
the same engine as Altium Designer
and allows designs to be easily shared
with other CircuitMaker users. We
reviewed CircuitMaker in January
2019 (siliconchip.au/Article/11378).
Even if you don’t use Altium
Designer, they have a trove of resources
relating to PCB design, including a
guide to getting started at www.altium.
com/documentation/altium-designer/
tutorial and the Altium Academy YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/<at>
AltiumAcademy
Summary
It’s not surprising that the Renesas purchase of Altium has seen
some changes to the way the product
Australia's electronics magazine
is delivered, with the new Altium
Develop and Altium Agile products
being introduced. The Altium Discover product sounds like it will provide an interesting addition to the
Altium repertoire.
Altium Designer 26 continues to
improve; the advances in the Harness
Designer and BOM tools continue the
trend of Altium’s tools gaining a wider
scope beyond simple PCB design and
layout. It’s good to see contemporary
updates to the PCB Editor, such as QR
codes and alignment with modern PCB
manufacturing standards.
For more information on the software, see www.altium.com – it can be
downloaded from www.altium.com/
SC
products/downloads
July 2026 87
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Batteries, monitors, lights and audio
Dave Thompson is once again busy doing whatever he does when he
disappears: fighting an alien invasion, creating a new sheep hybrid, or
practicing his haka – we aren’t sure which, but it must be one of those.
Anyway, in the meantime, Bruce Pierson has been very busy in his shed
fixing everything that comes across his bench, so here are some of the
things he has repaired lately.
To start things off, my son asked me if he could borrow my battery charger because his had stopped working.
I asked him to bring it over and I could see that it was a
switch-mode type, which are sometimes tricky to fix, but
I said I would a look at it.
I started by removing the four Phillips-head screws on
the bottom and split the case apart. Thankfully, they didn’t
use ‘tamper-resistant’ screws as is so common these days!
I had a good look over the circuit board. All the electrolytic capacitors looked OK, with no bulging tops, so I turned
it over and examined the copper side with a magnifying
glass to check for dry joints, but there were none. In fact,
it looked as if it were quite new, probably because it was.
It was a change from the older items I usually work on.
I got out my ESR/Low Ohms Tester from Electronics
Australia, February 1996, that I built from a Jaycar kit. It
indicated that all the electrolytic capacitors were good.
This device has been very useful over the years for finding
faulty electrolytic capacitors that showed no external signs.
The MK II version of this tester was featured in the Silicon
Chip March & April 2004 issues (siliconchip.au/Series/99).
88
Silicon Chip
Next, I got out my In-Circuit Transistor, Diode and SCR
Tester to start testing all the two- and three-legged semiconductors. I started with a diode, but the tester was not
working correctly. It was flashing very dimly and slowly,
then stopped flashing, with one LED lit dimly. It was a
sure sign that the battery had gone flat since I last used it.
I built it from a Jaycar kit of an Electronics Australia project from September 1983, and it has proved very useful.
When I tried to remove the 9V battery, the negative terminal came off the battery.
It took some effort to remove this detached terminal from
the battery connector, but I eventually got it off. With a new
battery fitted, I could continue testing. Nothing showed up
as faulty. I noticed that near the battery leads there was a
component that was likely some sort of SCR. I wondered
if it might be faulty.
I tested it, but no matter how I connected the leads from
the tester, it came up as an open circuit. Well, that must
be it. I used my 20W soldering iron to remove it from the
board and tested it again with the same result. Now I had
to identify it so I could order a new one.
The writing on the device was almost unreadable, but
I thought I could make out IRF724N. I looked on eBay for
this and found nothing suitable. A Google search for the
component gave many hits for IRFZ24N, so I guess what
looked like a 7 must have been a Z. I searched again on
eBay and ordered five from China for just over $5.
It took only 12 days to arrive. This is a 55V, 17A Mosfet so
I was surprised the original failed as it seems quite robust.
I soldered it to the board and clipped the excess leads off.
It mounts in the top-left corner of the circuit board, on the
left side of the battery cables.
I decided to test the charger before reassembling it. I
set the charger on the bench with a spare 12V SLA battery connected, plugged it in and switched on the power.
After a couple of seconds, the charging LED came on next
to the power LED, so I knew I could reassemble it and give
it back to my son.
I checked the Supercheap Auto website to see if this
charger was still available, but it was not. Similar chargers
cost between $60 and $100. My son has had this charger
for several years now (it came with the caravan he bought).
His caravan battery is charged by two solar panels, with the
charger being used to top up the battery when necessary.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The internals of the
Samsung SyncMaster
2253BW monitor. The
remains of the lizard
were very clearly
present when the back
was taken off.
It cost just over $1 to repair the battery charger, a considerable saving compared to buying a replacement charger.
Saving a ‘new’ SLA battery
I was sorting out some things in my shed when I came
across a new UPS box that had a brand new UPS in it. I
didn’t remember having this, so it must have been in the
shed for a very long time. I could tell by the weight of the
UPS that it had a battery in it, which was a bad sign.
These SLA batteries must be kept charged because when
the voltage drops below a certain point, they will refuse
to charge again. In that sense, they are worse than flooded
lead-acid batteries. Of course, car batteries should never
be in a situation where they are allowed to become dead
flat, as it shortens their life. Still, usually you can recharge
them if they go flat.
I took the SLA battery out of the UPS and tested the
voltage with my multimeter; sure enough, it read 0V. That
was a waste of a new battery. I was just about to recycle it
when I thought I would connect my SLA battery charger
to see if there was any chance it would charge. It wouldn’t
hurt to try.
I left the battery connected to the charger for a couple
of hours, but when I came back, the battery was still dead
flat. Just as I was about to put the battery into the scrap pile
again, I had a thought. I had nothing to lose, so I decided
to connect my car battery charger to it. I came back after
15 minutes and the ammeter on the charger showed that
the battery was charging.
That was unexpected, but it was a good sign that the battery might be able to be salvaged. I didn’t want to leave the
battery connected to the car battery charger, so I swapped
it for my SLA charger, and the charger’s LED turned red,
indicating that the battery was charging.
After several hours of charging, I switched the charger
off and got a 55W quartz halogen globe and tested the battery with it. The globe lit up at full brightness, showing
that the SLA battery had come good.
I had another old SLA battery in the scrap pile, so I
thought I would try charging it with the car battery charger, but it did not work, no doubt due to the age of the battery. Also, it had bulging ends, indicating that the plates
had deteriorated to the point of no return.
An SLA battery is only worth a few cents as scrap, but
siliconchip.com.au
a replacement battery is around $40. So this experiment
was worthwhile.
Sometimes in a situation like this, with nothing to lose,
it pays to experiment. You never know when things might
turn out better than expected.
Samsung monitor reptile removal
I’ve had this Samsung SyncMaster 2253BW monitor for
many years. Previously it was in use in my back shed where
I used to do electronics repairs before I got my new electronics workshop finished last year. I used to work more on
computers and monitors, but now I mostly work on laptops.
A few years ago, I went to switch on the monitor and it
tripped the safety switch. I unplugged it and put aside. I
reset the safety switch, got another monitor, and continued
doing what I had been doing at the time.
I suspected that a gecko might have gotten inside the
monitor and shorted out something on the power supply
board. I had this happen to an Asus monitor a long time
ago. In that case, the fuse had blown and some tracks were
damaged from arcing, but I was able to repair it.
This monitor is a bit tricky to disassemble. I started by
unscrewing the stand/base, then I unclipped the front
screen surround. This gave me access to the two screws
that hold the stand stem on, so I could remove it. Then,
with the monitor face down, I could remove the back shell.
With the back off, I unplugged the front control cable.
There is a metal screen to remove, plus four plugs for the
high-voltage supply. I put some dots on them so I would
know which one went where, as I thought this might be
important. I now had the metal shell with the power supply board and the video board loose from the rest of the
Items Covered This Month
• A shopping list of repairs
• Lights out on a receiver
• Fixing the fan bearings in a gas heater
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 89
The garden lights at night and one of the working glass
solar panels.
monitor. And there I found what was left of the gecko.
After removing the gecko and cleaning the board, I could
not see any damage. There were no burnt tracks or any other
signs of damage, but there was a small area on the back of
the screen with a black mark where the high voltage had
arced onto the gecko. Maybe the gecko shorted things in
such a way as not to cause any actual damage. Here’s hoping!
I placed the metal shell with the boards in it on the concrete floor, plugged in a power cable and switched it on.
Nothing happened. There was no smoke or any other sign
of anything being wrong. Maybe I got lucky with this one.
I put the monitor back together loosely so I could test it
before reassembly.
With it facing up, I connected it to power and pressed
the power button on the front screen surround. The screensaver came on, indicating that the monitor still worked. I
reassembled the monitor and then took it into the house
and connected to my Linux laptop with a VGA cable. I got
a good picture, so the monitor had been restored to working order.
This time I didn’t have to actually repair anything, just
remove the cause of the safety switch being tripped. Good
thing we have a safety switch!
Garden light repairs
We have 50 garden lights around features in the front of our house and on the
side of our driveway. Some of these lights
need maintenance from time to time. I usually check them every so often to see if there
are any that aren’t lit when it gets dark. It had
been a few months since I last checked them,
and I found that 30 weren’t working.
The most common reason they fail is
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Silicon Chip
that the rechargeable AAA cell needs to be replaced. This
was the case with 27 of the non-working lights. I only had
21 rechargeable AAA cells in stock, so I had to order some
more cells on eBay. I usually get 24 at a time so that I have
a good supply on hand.
Another point of failure is the YX8018, which is a specialised, low-voltage solar LED driver IC used primarily in
solar-powered garden lights, lawn lamps and fairy lights.
It is a single-chip solution that manages battery charging
during the day and drives the LED at night, operating efficiently at the low voltages typically supplied by a single
1.25V NiMH rechargeable cell.
As with the cells, I was able to obtain replacement
YX8018 ICs on eBay.
Another point of failure is the colour-changing LED,
which I occasionally have to replace if one colour goes out.
I was also able to obtain these on eBay. It’s not very often
that I need to change one, though, as they last a long time.
The final point of failure is the solar panel, which is a
40 × 40mm glass panel. If this fails, the garden light is not
repairable, as I cannot find glass solar panels of that size
anywhere.
Similar plastic solar panels are available on eBay but
they cost more than a replacement garden light, and in any
case, plastic solar panels are lucky to last a year here in the
Queensland sun. The glass panels can last 10 years or more.
As for the other three garden lights that were not working,
two had a failed solar panel and one had a failed YX8018
IC. In the case of either component failing, the light will
either not work at all or be on all the time in bright light.
To find out which, I disconnect the solar panel from the
circuit board, set it under a bright light and connect my
multimeter to the wires.
These small solar panels deliver around 1.8V at
20-100mA to charge the AAA cell during the day. They
produce voltage even out of direct sunlight. They comprise three individual cells that generate around 0.6V each.
I replaced the two lights with failed solar panels and
repaired the last with a new YX8018 IC. Whenever I buy
a new garden light, I take out the AAA cell that comes in
it and I replace it with the much better one from eBay as
these cells keep the light lit for longer at night and also
have a longer life expectancy.
In the process of repairing the garden lights, I had to
reseal some holes where the wires from the solar panel
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Left: the standing spotlight, which was rewired so that it
had a longer cable, and did not need an extension cable.
enter the light, as some were not sealed correctly, allowing
water to enter the light. This resulted in a couple of battery connectors needing to be replaced; I used parts from
old lights that had failed solar panels.
In over 10 years, I have amassed 20 lights with failed
solar panels. I also replaced two glass bodies, as the water
had rusted the bottom screws, which caused the screws
to expand and break the glass. Sometimes a light may get
broken from another cause as well.
Simple headphone repair
My son brought me some headphones that had the cord
ripped off. He pointed out that there was a tiny piece of
red wire still attached to one speaker terminal so I’d know
which wire went where.
I got my 20W soldering iron out and plugged it in to heat
up while I prepared the wires for the repair. The wires
appeared to be cotton-covered, multi-core enamelled copper wire, so I used a lighter to burn off the cotton covering
and the enamel at the end.
I was then able to tin each wire, ready to solder them
back to their respective terminals on the speaker. I carefully soldered each wire to the correct terminal and put the
speaker back onto its bracket.
This was an easy repair that
only took me a few minutes.
I gave the headphones back
to my son and suggested that
they should be stored where
their cat could not find them
again, as it was fortunate that
the headphones had not been
ripped to pieces. If the cat had
another go at them, it could
end up a lot worse than just
the wires ripped off.
Rewiring a
standing spotlight
I’ve had this standing spotlight for several years, but
hadn’t used it. It had a short
cable with a footswitch,
which may have worked well
inside a house with the power
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points near the floor, but it was impractical in my workshops with power points above the benches.
I had been using it with an extension cable, but I decided
to rewire it to have a longer cable without the foot switch.
I looked on Jaycar’s website and found the exact cable I
needed, sold by the metre.
I worked out that I needed six metres, as the stand was
around 1.5m high and that would give me around 4.5m of
cable to reach a nearby convenient power point.
I knew I had a plug to suit this twin-core flat cable, as
I had planned to use it to repair a fan from the local Tip
Shop that someone had cut the plug off, but at the time I
could not find it. In the meantime, I had found it and lost
it again, but after a quick search, I located it and put it on
my workbench until the cable arrived.
When it did, I started by removing the two screws securing the shade and lamp holder to the stand. Then I fed some
cable up through the stand so I had working room to disconnect the cable from the lamp holder. With that done,
it was time to remove the old cable and run the new cable
through the stand and connect it at both ends.
After removing the lamp holder and the lampshade, I
tried pulling the cable through the stand from the bottom,
but it got stuck and I could not
pull it through. I suspected
that there might be a join in
the cable, so I unscrewed the
segments one-by-one and,
sure enough, there was a join
in the cable.
I cut the joint off the
cable and I was then able to
extract the old cable through
the segments and then
through the bottom of the
stand and out of the base,
ready for the new cable to
be installed.
I fed the cable into the
stand base from the bottom,
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 91
The JVC
receiver,
which
needed
tracks to be
bypassed
with wire,
due to
corrosion.
disintegrate is a mystery because they are on opposite ends
of the PCB. On close examination, it looks like the tracks
have oxidised in numerous sections. There is no visual
indication of burning or lifting as if it had occurred from
overcurrent heat stress.
Editor’s note: while those supply tracks carried an AC
voltage, there would likely have been a small DC voltage.
That, combined with moisture and acid from decaying
insects, is likely to lead to electrolytic corrosion. The solder mask is porous and doesn’t prevent the copper tracks
underneath from corroding away under these conditions.
Paul James, Kanwal, NSW.
Braemar gas heater fan bearing repair
but I found there was a plastic sleeve at the top of each
section that the cable was getting caught on. I fed the cable
through from the top instead, which proved to be successful. I screwed the segments together and then onto the base
as I fed the cable through.
Having connected the lamp holder and reassembled it, I
screwed the lamp holder and shade back onto the top flexible part of the stand.
The last job was to wire up the plug. A regular plug is not
suitable for this two-core flat cable because the cable hole
in the outer section of the plug is too big, so it was lucky I
still had this one that suited the cable. With the rewiring
finished, I tested the spotlight, and it worked as expected.
JVC RX 5032-VSL receiver repair
I was asked if I could do anything about the lights on an
amplifier/receiver so it could be used properly. The amplifier had no display and therefore couldn’t be readily controlled because there was no indication of volume settings,
radio stations or any other functions.
I completely dismantled the receiver and found that
numerous insects had entered the casing and had died
there or been scorched. On tracing the power supply circuit for the vacuum fluorescent display, it was clear that
no power was getting to it at all.
The AC voltage was coming out of the transformer at 5V
but not getting to the ribbon cable pins that supply the display. Testing with a multimeter on the PCB track from the
transformer and the pins showed an open circuit no matter where tested along the PCB track. The same thing was
happening on both outputs from the transformer.
The PCB track appeared to be a different colour from
the others and was unstable. Further testing on the track
revealed that it was all open-circuit.
The PCB track had to be bypassed with some wire to get
the transformer output voltage to the ribbon cable, maintaining the resistor in one leg of the supply.
During this process, I obtained a circuit diagram that
showed that the transformer was supposed to be supplying 15V AC, but all my measurements showed 5V AC and
the display worked after bypassing the faulty tracks, so I
guess that must be correct. Apparently, the circuit I found
is incorrect or for a different version because the transformer pinouts were different as well.
What really caused both of the supply tracks to
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Silicon Chip
When purchased and installed in 1982, our Braemar
gas wall heater fan was equipped with plain bronze bush
bearings. By 2021, not only had the bushes worn out, but
the bush at the fan end of the motor had worn a shallow
groove into the motor shaft.
Because there is only about a 10 thou (~0.25mm) clearance between the rotor and stator, the wear caused the rotor
to rub against the inside of the stator and emit a rhythmic
scraping sound, which steadily grew louder. By the winter
of 2022, the friction of the rotor against the stator became
sufficient to prevent the rotor from spinning.
Ball bearings should have been fitted when the motor
was manufactured. Provided that they were a reasonably
tight fit on the shaft, the ball race would rotate with the
shaft, and there would have been no shaft wear.
Clearly, something needed to be done, but what?
Braemar stated that they had no spare parts, but for
approximately $3000 they would provide and install a
whole new heater. Needless to say, that was never going
to happen for the sake of a couple of measly ¼-inch bearings. I explored other possible sources of new motors or
rotors, but couldn’t find any with a sufficiently long shaft.
The options then were:
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1. Find and fit a new shaft. Perhaps a length of ¼-inch
(6.35mm) diameter silver steel rod or a drill blank would
do the trick.
2. Manufacture a new shaft from a suitable length of
hardened steel.
3. Purchase a replacement motor of suitable dimensions
but with a short shaft, and extend it using a collar.
4. Fill the grooves on the existing shaft, perhaps by metal
spraying.
5. Turn some new bushes from bronze bar or rod.
6. Fit ball bearings and fill the shaft grooves with epoxy
resin.
7. Fit ball bearings and fill the shaft grooves with epoxy
resin reinforced with fine steel filings. Such mixes are
available commercially, but anyone with some scrap metal
and a file can make their own (I once drove from Oslo to
London after repairing a chewed-out rear axle spline in
this manner).
Option #6 seemed to be the least expensive and most
expedient. Even though epoxy is a relatively soft material
compared to steel or chrome, it wouldn’t be subjected to
wear so long as the shaft and inner race rotated as one.
Because option #6 was likely to involve a delay of several
days while suitable bearings were delivered, I attempted a
temporary fix using the existing bush bearings by filling the
groove worn into the shaft with epoxy mixed with graphite.
In theory, the graphite would provide a low-friction bearing surface while the epoxy held it in place. Unfortunately,
the epoxy collapsed after about four days, bringing the fan
to a halt once more. Curses!
By the time the ball bearings arrived, I’d refilled the
groove worn in the shaft with plain epoxy and, using nothing more than a fine file, reduced the filler to the same diameter as the shaft. Voilà! The bearing slid on neatly with a
small interference fit.
Moreover, the ball bearing width proved to be equal to
that of the original bronze bushes, so the shaft position and
end play were no different once the original spacer was
installed on the shaft between the rotor and fan end bearing.
Having measured the bearing outer diameter, I made
ready to turn a suitable spacer ring to support it inside the
motor housing. Then I had a brainwave. Had my old friend
Ian not recently gifted me a box of various-sized O-rings?
Maybe the box might yield a couple sized suitably for this
purpose. Indeed, I found four.
There was only space for one per bearing, leaving the
possibility of the O rings migrating to the outer end of the
bearings and releasing them. I needed some annulus-shaped
packing spacers that would slip over the bearing yet fit
inside the housing.
After rummaging through my box of washers and finding
nothing suitable, I decided to experiment by cutting some
thin cardboard packing washers. After all, there was no
more danger of the cardboard burning than of the wiring
or plastic formers within the motor. I could always make
metal versions later if this worked.
Work it did, and wonderfully so. The fan is silent and
rotates with a vigour as never before. Whereas we habitually
ran it at the medium speed setting, we now use only the
low speed setting. It has been running this way for a couple of years, and I’ve never needed to replace the O-rings
or cardboard washers with anything more substantial.
SC
Ron, via email.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 93
Vintage Radio
National R-72 “Toot-a-Loop” radios
by Ian Batty
Is it a musical
instrument? Is it
a telephone? No,
it’s a radio! This quirky transistor set comes in
a unique, colourful plastic case that’s sure to attract
attention. Inside, the circuitry of this six-transistor set hid some surprises.
W
ho doesn’t remember the 1960s?
The Beatles, the Vietnam War,
moon landings, Mao’s Great Leap Forward, Woodstock, and cars with massive tailfins. Fashion designers shook
free the drab aesthetic of the 1950s,
releasing more and more flamboyant,
colourful, exciting designs in a frenzy
to capture the new postwar economic
boom.
By the late 1960s, transistor radio
engineering had pretty much settled
on the standard set: three radio frequency (RF)/intermediate frequency
(IF) stages, a volume control, an audio
driver and a push-pull Class-B output stage, likely powered by the then-
ubiquitous 9V PP6 battery that’s still
in use today.
Matsushita’s National brand, unable
to use that name in the USA due to an
existing company of the same name,
had rebranded as Panasonic. They put
forward several remarkable offerings;
the R-72 Toot-a-Loop (appearing at the
end of the 1960s) is one of the most
distinctive.
It’s another example of National’s successful marketing strategy:
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Silicon Chip
visually attractive radios using sound
electronic design. Like the R-70 Panapet (March 2025; siliconchip.au/
Article/17800), the Toot-a-Loop is
unique. Even if you have no idea of
its provenance, you’ll be impressed
by its styling.
As an early ‘wearable’ radio, it’s a
standout. The quirky design was complemented by bright colours to create a
radio rivalled in its overall effect only
by an identical offering from RCA subsidiary Japan Victor Corporation (JVC).
The Toot-a-Loop came in white, red,
blue, yellow, orange and lime, with
the last two options being specific to
the Australia/New Zealand markets.
Our models were badged National
JIS transistor coding
Prefix Type
2SA High-frequency PNP BJT
2SB Audio-frequency PNP BJT
2SC High-frequency NPN BJT
2SD Audio-frequency NPN BJT
2SJ P-channel FETs (JFETs & Mosfets)
2SK N-channel FETs (JFETs & Mosfets)
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Panasonic and were advertised as a
“Sing-O-Ring”.
Between my yellow and red sets and
what’s online, I’m aware of three different circuits for this radio. Let’s look
at the R-72S yellow set (serial number
88009) first.
Ernst Erb’s Radiomuseum has the
circuit, showing a classic six-transistor
set; my redrawn version is shown in
Fig.1. It runs off a battery of two AA
cells, giving a nominal 3V supply.
The six transistors comprise one converter, two intermediate-
frequency
gain stages, one audio driver, and
the transformer-coupled Class-B output pair.
My example matched this with a
few exceptions. The audio driver transistor, rather than a metal-can germanium PNP 2SB475/AC125 type shown
in the original circuit, is an epoxy silicon NPN type, the 2SC828.
The RF/IF section varied even more;
the converter uses an epoxy silicon
NPN 2SC829 transistor, while the IF
strip has only two IF transformers, one
coupling the converter to the first IF
amplification stage, with the second
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coupling the second IF stage to the
demodulator. It has two IF transistors, both ceramic-cased silicon NPN
2SC920s, with resistance-capacitance
coupling.
The red R-72 set (serial number
11878) runs from a PP6 9V battery.
The RF/IF section is similar to that in
the original R-72S circuit, with three
metal-can PNPs (2SA102, 2SA101 &
2SA101). These are drift types, with
typical ft values in the 25MHz range,
an improvement over the preceding
alloy-junction OC44 with its typical
15MHz ft.
It’s a very similar circuit to that of
the previously reviewed R-70 Panapet. Does that mean my red R-72, apart
from the supply voltage, is similar to
the R-72S? Well, no. It shows a notation for a 2SC829 silicon NPN converter with the correct symbol, but it’s
wired into the circuit with the correct
polarities for a PNP device.
It’s odd that it says 2SC829 (OC1044),
since the OC1044 (2SA101) is definitely a PNP germanium type, which is
what I found installed. Also, the audio
section’s transformerless design uses
two epoxy-cased NPN transistors and
one PNP type.
Online searching revealed the
Philips 20RL012 long-wave-only set
using PNPs for the converter and IF
amplifiers, with a complementary
output stage using NPN and PNP
transistors. It’s an unusual design, as
long-wave broadcasting had begun
declining by the time the Toot-a-Loop
arrived.
So I ended up with two chimeras
– not quite the classic lion’s head,
goat’s body and snake’s tail, but close
enough.
Finding no authoritative circuit for
the yellow set, I resorted to tracing it
out as-built. This was complicated by
the extreme compactness of the design
and by almost all the resistors being
printed onto the circuit board.
Where I would usually lift one end
of a resistor to measure it, I had to
apply my ohmmeter with both polarities and take the higher reading (to
prevent transistor junctions giving a
false reading) or, bravely, short-circuit
bias resistors to ground, measure
the short-circuit current, then apply
Ohm’s Law. You may not want to try
this at home! The resulting circuit for
the red set is shown in Fig.2.
Both sets are built on double-sided
PCBs with most of the resistors
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printed directly onto the phenolic substrate. This would reduce the
amount of mechanical assembly, as
resistors don’t need to be placed prior
to wave-soldering the PCB. It’s also a
great way of reducing the overall size
of the set, and would be highly reliable.
It does make circuit tracing harder,
especially when the as-built set differs as much from available circuits,
as these two do.
So we have three different circuits
for just two sets. Let’s look at the RF/
IF sections first.
Circuit details
The 3V (Fig.1) front-end uses Q1,
an NPN 2SC829 converter transistor.
With a typical ft of 230MHz and being
recommended for “RF amplification,
oscillation, mixing, and IF stages of
FM/AM radios”, it’s similar to the
more familiar BF115.
The base bias for Q1 is supplied
from the decoupled supply via resistive divider R1/R2, with emitter resistor R3 stabilising the circuit, bypassed
by capacitor C4. I’ve never seen a tuning gang returned to the emitter (or
cathode) of a converter before, but
this does conform to the single-point
grounding technique.
Be aware that the tuning gang’s
‘cold’ RF connection is above ground
and must not be used as an earthing
point during testing.
Q1 is configured as a self-oscillating
converter, with the usual ‘Japanese-
style’ oscillator feedback from LO
transformer L2 via 10nF capacitor C3
to the base. Since connecting a signal
generator to the base stops the oscillator, I used a low-value series capacitor
to inject to the top of the tuned antenna
circuit. This confirmed the high sensitivity borne out in testing (more on
that later). IF injection is also reliable.
The converter feeds the tuned,
tapped primary of the first IF transformer, IFT1. Its secondary feeds first
IF amplifier Q2, a 2SC920 transistor with a typical ft of 250MHz. This
stage’s emitter goes directly to ground,
eliminating the usual emitter resistor
and its bypass capacitor. It gets weak
Fig.1: both of my sets had a different
configuration from the ‘standard’
published circuit. This is how my
yellow set was built. It uses many
different transistor types from the
standard circuit and has one fewer IF
transformer, with RC coupling taking
its place.
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July 2026 95
forward bias via R4, and gain-control
voltage from the demodulator via R10.
Load resistor R5 measured as 1.3kW.
The signal is then resistance-capacitance coupled to Q3, another 2SC920,
via 22nF capacitor C8, working with
fixed bias. Voltage divider R6/R7 measured as 30kW and 16kW, while emitter resistor R8 measured at 210W,
bypassed by 22nF capacitor C9.
IFT1 was confirmed as the first IF
transformer (converter circuit) by its
yellow adjusting cap, and IFT2 as the
final IF transformer (demodulator circuit) by its black adjusting cap. The
usual second IF (white cap) was missing, confirming (i) only two IF transformers and (ii) R-C coupling.
My familiarity with two-stage audio
preamplifiers initially suggested a
direct-coupled design, but the application of AGC would presumably have
disturbed DC operating conditions
excessively.
Q3 feeds final IF transformer IFT2’s
tapped, tuned primary, shunted by
100kW resistor R9, presumably to provide some damping and broaden the
IF bandwidth. IFT2’s secondary feeds
demodulator diode D1, a miniature allglass silicon diode.
Jim Greig’s January 2025 article in
Radio Waves magazine on the Sanyo
RP-1250 shows a circuit that’s very
similar to the R-72. The IF circuit, on
pages 50-51 of that issue, is very similar to that of my Toot-a-Loop. Given the
relationship between Panasonic and
Sanyo, a shared design makes sense.
That circuit notes the silicon rectifier
diode as a BAY41.
A silicon type is needed, rather than
the usual germanium type, as its forward conduction voltage must match
that of silicon transistor Q2 for proper
AGC action. As usual, the diode is
weakly forward-biased by the controlled IF amplifier’s bias circuit, in
this case, 22kW resistor R4.
The rectified IF signal is filtered
by RC network A1. The demodulated
audio is sent to volume control potentiometer VR1, and the rectified DC
component is sent back to the first IF
stage via 7.3kW resistor R10.
Audio stages
The as-built circuit of the yellow
set’s audio stages was close to the
published R-72S circuit, with a few
oddities. The audio driver, rather
than a metal-cased PNP 2SB475, was
an epoxy-cased silicon NPN 2SC828
type.
The R-72S showed an adjustable
resistor of some kind in the lower
end of the 2SB475’s base bias divider,
but no emitter stabilising resistor.
This would be consistent with laser-
trimming, where the set would be put
on test and the resistor element carefully vaporised to give the correct circuit voltages/currents. I was unable to
discover any evidence of laser-trimming, though.
As the 2SC828 is an NPN type, its
emitter returns to supply ground, and
it gets base bias via resistor divider
R11/R12. Its collector feeds the primary of driver transformer T1, with
its ‘cold’ end going to the battery’s
positive terminal. Top cut is applied
to the audio signal via collector-base
feedback capacitor C12 (10nF).
T1 phase-splits the audio signal
and applies it to the bases of transistors Q5 and Q6 in anti-phase. Both are
metal-can germanium PNP 2SB475s.
They get around 200mV of forward
bias via the R15/R16 divider and
temperature compensation via 240W
thermistor R14.
Output transformer T2 feeds the 8W
speaker via the earphone socket, with
the usual disconnection of the speaker
when the earphone jack is plugged in.
Red set front-end
My circuit (Fig.2) may seem unusual
but, as it uses a positive supply, the
audio section is easily understood.
This does ‘invert’ the all-PNP RF/IF
section, with the IF transformer primaries going to ground and transistor
emitters returning to the decoupled
positive supply.
The RF/IF stage is a completely
ordinary all-germanium circuit, which
should be similar to that of the R-72S.
My set differs from the R-72S in that
the latter shows a 2SC829 silicon NPN
converter wired in-circuit as PNP! It
does correctly show its equivalent as
a germanium PNP OC1044, however,
which is equivalent to the 2SA101.
The equivalence is confusing; the
OC1044 is described as a ‘junction’
type (with a typical ft of 15MHz),
while the 2SA101 is a drift-field type,
with a typical fαβ of 25MHz (not an
identical specification to ft but usually close).
As built, converter Q1 gets bias via
divider R1/R2 (5.6kW/33kW), with
emitter stabilisation via 1.2kW resistor R3, bypassed by 22nF capacitor
C4. R2 is one of four discrete resistors,
probably used because printed-circuit
types (marked on the 20RL012 circuit
as “imp”) could not give sufficiently
high (R2/R12) or sufficiently low (R14/
R15) values.
Note, though, that the 20RL012 circuit shows R2 as a printed type.
LO transformer T1’s tuned, tapped
secondary feeds back to Q1’s emitter
via 4.7nF capacitor C3. The tuning
gang uses a cut-plate LO section, so
R14
R9
R15
C13
Both variants (R-72S, left; R-72, right) are built on a double-sided PCB, with only two components on the bottom side.
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Silicon Chip
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there is no padder. The bias voltage
on the converter transistor is only
some 100mV, confirming the Class-B
operation needed for the conversion
process.
Converter Q1 feeds the tapped,
tuned primary of the first IF transformer, IFT1. Its untuned, untapped
secondary feeds the base circuit of the
first IF amplifier transistor, Q2, noted
as a 2SA101/OC1045. Although the
drift construction method improved
high-frequency performance over that
of alloyed-junction devices, the resulting collector-base capacitance was still
significant, so Q2 is neutralised by 2pF
capacitor C8.
Q2 gets weak forward bias via 100kW
resistor R4, bypassed for audio by 10μF
capacitor C7. Q2 feeds second IF transformer IFT2’s tapped, tuned primary,
with its untuned secondary feeding
second IF amplifier transistor Q3.
Unusually, transistor Q3 is also
gain-controlled. This did not give
much better output constancy with
changes in signal strength, but it did
give a very early onset of gain reduction, demanding an abnormally high
input signal to give the standard 50mW
output. More on this below.
Q3 feeds the tapped, tuned primary
of third IF transformer IFT3. Q3 operates without neutralisation, possibly
due to demodulator diode D1’s loading of IFT3 giving a lower gain in this
second IF stage.
Demodulator diode D1, an OA70,
feeds the IF filter block C11/C12/R7.
Audio is fed, via 1kW resistor R9 and
1μF coupling capacitor C14, to the
volume control. D1’s DC output is fed,
via 10kW series resistor R8 and 10μF
audio filter capacitor C7, to the bases
of Q2 and Q3 for AGC, as noted above.
Red set audio stages
The red set’s audio section appears
complicated, but it became the design
of choice and remains so to this day.
You’ll find its principles everywhere,
from the LM386 audio chip to highpower amplifiers in the kilowatt range.
Its circuit stability surpasses that of
previous designs, while the removal
of transformers and most capacitors
allows manufacturers to deliver any
level of performance, from low-power
AM radio quality up to hifi systems of
previously unmatched fidelity.
Transistors Q5 (NPN) and Q6 (PNP)
form a complementary pair. Feeding
an AC signal to their bases will see Q5
siliconchip.com.au
biased on for the positive half-cycle,
with Q6 coming on for the negative
half-cycle.
They’re both configured as emitter-
followers, so they provide roughly
unity voltage gain. They do, though,
provide considerable current gain,
with high input impedances. A highgain driver stage can take the millivolt-
level signal from a radio’s demodulator and amplify it up to speaker levels, with the output pair matching the
low-impedance speaker load.
In detail, audio from the volume
control enters the circuit via coupling
capacitor C16, arriving at the base of
preamplifier/driver transistor Q4. Q4’s
collector current, flowing via D2 and
R13, becomes the driving voltage for
Q5/Q6. Their emitters (via R14 and
R15) connect together to drive the
speaker via C20.
The circuit is able to deliver almost
the entire supply voltage (as a peak-topeak AC signal) to the speaker, around
8V peak-to-peak in this circuit. A quick
calculation gives a potential output
power of around 200mW into this set’s
40W speaker.
It’s important that the circuit is
biased correctly. This demands a quiescent (idling) current of a few milliamperes in Q5/Q6, temperature compensation to ensure that Q5/Q6 do not
enter destructive thermal runaway at
high temperatures, and that the Q5/
Q6 emitters set close to half the supply voltage, to allow maximum undistorted output, ie, equal magnitude positive and negative half-cycles.
The quiescent current is set by the
base-to-base voltage of Q5/Q6. Diode
D2 is designed for a breakdown voltage of just about 1.2V, which is roughly
twice the normal Vbe for silicon transistors. D2 also has a negative temperature coefficient (NTC). As the ambient
temperature rises, D2’s forward voltage will fall, compensating for the 2
× -2.5mV/°C fall in Q5/Q6’s total Vbe.
For the emitter voltages of Q5/Q6,
we need to look at the DC feedback
path via 560kW resistor R12. For example, a rise in the emitter voltages will
supply more bias current (via R12)
to Q4. This will raise Q4’s collector
current, drawing its collector voltage
down and lowering Q5/Q6’s emitter
voltages.
Fig.2: the circuit of my red set is
different again, with most of the
transistors having different polarities
than in the yellow set!
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 97
A fall in the emitter voltages of Q5/
Q6 would result in less bias for Q4,
allowing the circuit to send the Q5/Q6
emitters higher. It’s a simple feedback
loop that stabilises the entire amplifier’s DC conditions.
The final problem is to get enough
voltage swing at the bases of Q5 & Q6.
They need several milliamperes of
base current to deliver full current
into the speaker at signal peaks
(the speaker current divided
by their hfe figures). Pulling
the bases down to switch Q6
on hard is easy; Q4 can readily pull Q6’s base to ground
and supply many milliamps
of base current.
Pulling up seems harder. Let’s
send Q4 to cutoff. Now, Q5’s base
is fed via 820W resistor R13. Assuming we need about 2mA base current
to bias Q5 fully on, we’ll get a drop
of around 2V across R13. If only we
could supply R13 from a higher voltage than the battery.
That’s the job of R13’s connection
to the speaker. With no signal, this
point will be at around 9V. As the Q5/
Q6 emitters start to swing positive,
so will the speaker voltage. But the
speaker is already at 9V, so the positive half-cycle will see the speaker
connection increase above 9V on the
signal’s positive peaks.
In theory, this point can get to
The R-72 and R-72S share the same
dial and case. Apart from the
colour, the only other external
difference is on the nameplate.
around 13V. So that means that the
voltage drop across R13 is fairly constant at around 4V. It’s known as a
‘bootstrap’ circuit, based on the principle of pulling oneself up by one’s
bootstraps!
This particular design offers circuit protection; if the speaker is open-
circuit, there’s no DC supply to the top
of R13 and the circuit simply fails to
operate.
Restoration
Confusingly, a very recent search
on Radiomuseum turned up an R-72S
circuit that shows the RF/IF correctly,
but retains the PNP audio driver! My
advice is to always check any circuit
against the as-built equipment.
Both sets came in acceptable condition, although the red set’s coin slot
had seen excessive force and was a bit
mangled. They both cleaned up nicely
with a spray wash and some automotive polish.
I’ve had the yellow set for some
years now. When I first tried it back
at Harcourt, it failed to impress. I was
Fig.3: the original circuit; it seems like it may be representative of
only a minority of the R-72 sets that were manufactured.
98
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
able to pick up Melbourne stations, but
at less than full gain. I put the lack of
sensitivity down to the small ferrite
rod antenna and the oddball resistance-capacitance coupled IF channel.
But when I started to test the set,
I found that the solder tab connecting the top of the ferrite rod’s tuned
winding had broken, open-circuiting
the connection to the tuning gang and
leaving the antenna circuit completely
untuned. The low sensitivity was one
clue, but I also couldn’t get a peak at
the 600kHz alignment point.
If the antenna circuit was not
being tuned, it would not resonate at
600kHz, so adjusting the LO to maximise the 600kHz sensitivity would be
fruitless. As the antenna circuit would
just be acting as a simple untuned
pickup coil, the set would work about
as poorly no matter the LO frequency.
With that fixed, and with a quick
tweak, 3WV Warrnambool rocked in
at full volume; not bad for a station
over 200km from my previous place
at Rosebud.
The red set was dead, though. No
output, nothing. Connecting my monitor amp to the earphone socket got it
going, and the lack of output was found
to be an open-circuit speaker.
Not expecting to get it rewound
(does anyone repair/rewind three-inch
speakers?), I got a replacement online.
Its diameter was a little smaller than
the original, but I turned a collar using
a circle-cutter on my bench press drill
from an old ice-cream container. That
done, it was onto the test bench for
alignment and performance analysis.
We’ve just moved to Malvern, where
the local levels of EMI even intrude
on 774 ABC Melbourne’s powerful
signal. Taking both Toot-a-Loops for
a walk in the park, though, I was easily able to pull in my favourite 3WV
at full speaker volume, albeit with a
bit of noise.
How good is it?
I was able to test the yellow set at
the standard audio output of 50mW.
The audio response from volume control to speaker is around 220Hz to
4.6kHz; from antenna to speaker, it’s
some 160Hz to 1.1kHz.
Driving the output stage to clipping
gave 150mW at 10% total harmonic
distortion (THD), while the 50mW
output (4.5% THD) and 10mW output
(2.8% THD) are creditable for a Class-B
push-pull output circuit.
siliconchip.com.au
Volume control
Demod
Output
transformer
2nd IFT
Driver
transformer
2nd IF
Output
1st audio
1st IF
1st IFT
Oscillator
coil
Converter
3rd IFT
2nd IF
Volume
control
Demodulator
1st audio
D2
Output
1st IF
2nd IFT
Converter
1st IFT
Oscillator coil
R2
The insides of
both the R-72 and
R-72S with some of the
components labelled.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2026 99
Some Panasonic history
National Panasonic’s founder, Konosuke Matsushita, was born in 1894 to a
family that fell on hard times. Young Konosuke was forced to leave school at
age nine to find various jobs until he made his first invention, a light socket.
While his product surpassed many others in quality and cost, he found marketing this product very difficult. The experience showed him the need to find
marketing outlets for his products. He formed a strategy that reduced the
energy put into manufacturing in favour of the establishment of a sales force
that led to a retail store network.
His next outing seems equally humble today: a bicycle lamp. Still, it was
battery-powered, making it far superior and much more convenient than his
competitors’ candle- and oil-based offerings.
Matsushita was in danger of being removed as president of National after
the end of WWII. One of General Douglas MacArthur’s strategies to rebuild
the Japanese economy involved breaking up the Zaibatsu (large national corporations).
A 15,000-strong petition from National employees changed MacArthur’s
mind and, in 1947, Matsushita gave brother-in-law Toshio an unutilised manufacturing plant to manufacture bicycle lamps. This company eventually
became Sanyo Electric.
It’s tempting to cast National as the also-ran to Sony, especially given Sony’s
remarkable rise from the ashes of WWII. Against this, we can consider Sony’s
vulnerability as industry leader and the VCR wars of the 1970s and 1980s,
which saw Sony’s Betamax outsold and finally obsoleted despite continuing
improvements that ultimately delivered CD-quality audio.
The competitor to Betamax, Video Home System (VHS), had been developed
by Japan Victor Corporation (JVC) and was strongly supported by National, with
Mitsubishi, Hitachi and Sharp adding their marketing power to the VHS push.
It’s fair to say that Sony’s innovative energy and design flair would always
be challenged by products that, while perhaps not the cutting edge of technology, were sound, reliable and well-marketed. And the leader of that group
was Matsushita’s company, National.
The Panasonic
“Toot-a-Loop”
radio could rotated
into a ring, which was
designed to be wrapped
around your wrist. And all it needed
was a single 9V battery or two AAs.
100
Silicon Chip
The set needed 140μV/m at 600kHz
and 110μV/m at 1400kHz for signal+noise:noise (S+N:N) ratios of
18dB and 13dB, respectively.
For 20dB S+N:N, the levels
were both 190mV/m. AGC control was as expected for a single
stage: a signal rise of around
+30dB gave an output rise of
+6dB.
Selectivity was ±2.3kHz for
-3dB down and ±44kHz for
-60dB. The skirt selectivity,
especially, is very wide for
a transistor set of this era,
confirming the reduced
selectivity expected
from the use of only
two IF transformers. Selectivity
reduction is also
increased by R9
shunting of ITF2’s
primary.
As for the red set,
its unusual two-stage AGC
showed very early onset, needing
an artificially high signal to get to the
Australia's electronics magazine
standard 50mW output. Accordingly,
I tested at 10mW output, so all measurements on the diagram are for a
10mW output.
The audio response from volume
control to speaker is around 125Hz
to 2.7kHz; from antenna to speaker,
it’s about 65Hz to 1.7kHz, although
the unusually low bass response is
wasted with the tiny speaker. The top
end of just 2.7kHz seems low for an
output-transformer-less (OTL) design,
but 22nF capacitor C18, connected
from Q4’s collector to ground, gives
a significant amount of top cut.
Driving the output stage to clipping
gave 150mW at 10% total harmonic
distortion (THD), while the 50mW
output (2% THD) and 10mW output
(3% THD) show the value of a well-
designed OTL circuit.
RF performance was also creditable;
noting that I tested at 10mW audio
output, the set needed 75μV/m at
600kHz and 120μV/m at 1400kHz for
S+N:N ratios of 8dB and 7dB, respectively. Without the early-onset AGC,
these should have equated to about
170μV/m and 270μV/m, respectively,
for 50mW out.
In reality, the red set needed
450μV/m and 550μV/m to achieve
50mW. Despite the two-stage AGC,
the input change for a +6dB rise was
only about +30dB, the same as for the
single-AGC stage design.
Selectivity was ±1.6kHz for -3dB
and ±12kHz for -60dB.
Would I buy another?
I could keep going and get the complete set. It’s a striking example of
packaging; take a popular commodity
that’s gotten a bit ho-hum and wrap it
inside an exciting, attractive case that
makes it stand out from the pack.
My research turned up the R-72,
R-72S and Wadley RF-72 FM version from South Africa. There’s also
the identical AM R-720 from Citizen
Electronics. For a vividly ‘interesting’
design, hop onto Radiomuseum and
look for the JVC Balance (8008).
Special handling
When replacing batteries, take your
time and be kind to the coin slot.
For more information on this series
of radios, visit the following Radiomuseum links:
R-72(S): siliconchip.au/link/acb1
RF-72: siliconchip.au/link/acb2
8008: siliconchip.au/link/acb3 SC
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Do finished PCBs need
a coating?
I hope this isn’t a dumb question,
but I recently saw a YouTube video
where the guy said that once you were
happy that you had soldered all the
components onto the board and the
circuit did what it was supposed to
do, you should clean all the solder
joints and, when dry, coat them with
a protective lacquer.
Examining most of my assembled
projects from years past, the poor condition of the soldered joints suggests
he could be correct.
I cannot remember any mention in
any of the project assembly instructions to do this. Have I missed this in
the instructions, or is it so basic that
it’s assumed I would know it? If he is
correct, what cleaning fluid and coating compound should I use? Would
they be available at the usual electronics suppliers? (C. K., Oxley, Qld)
● Actually, that is a good question.
Generally, if using solder masked
(coated) printed circuit boards (PCBs)
and the correct solder for electronics,
where the flux is non corrosive (such
as rosin flux), you shouldn’t need to
clean off the flux and coat the PCB with
a protective coating. When bare copper PCBs are used, these will require a
protective coating to prevent the copper tracks from corroding.
If the PCB is used in corrosive conditions, such as in boats or coastal
locations, coating is advisable after
soldering. Both Altronics and Jaycar
sell circuit board lacquer. If the flux is
removed to make the PCB look cleaner,
you can use isopropyl alcohol or methylated spirits for a less clean job.
Specific flux cleaning products are
also available, such as Chemtools
Deflux It, available from Jaycar (there
are two versions; we particularly like
the G2 type).
We have prototype boards that are
over 20 years old and they are still
mostly in very good condition, but
that may be because they were stored
in containers and/or in dry conditions.
How important is Liion battery protection?
The Human Comfort Indicator project (June 2026 issue; siliconchip.au/
Article/20362) specifies a lithium-ion
rechargeable cell with built-in protection. I have looked online and in the
Jaycar catalog, but the 14500-size, 3.2V
batteries available don’t seem to have
protection. Could you tell me if that
is strictly necessary and, if so, where
I could obtain one? (B. D., Mount
Hunter, NSW)
● We purchased the cells used in
that project a few years ago. We found
the following cells online, which
appear to be suitable, but we have not
tested these:
Klarus 14GT-92UR: siliconchip.au/
link/acc7
Elemex 14500: siliconchip.au/link/
acc8
Most of the real hazards (thermal
runaway and fire) associated with
Obtaining precision resistors for the SmartProbe
I am intending to construct the SmartProbe (July 2025; siliconchip.au/
Article/18515). The parts list calls for ±0.1% 0805 SMD resistors (2 × 2MW, 1 ×
680kW and 1 × 51kW), which seem to be difficult to obtain. Could you please advise
where I might be able to get them? (J. A., Townsville, Qld)
● We found some options from DigiKey, Mouser and element14. For example:
DigiKey: A119974CT-ND (2MW), P680KDACT-ND (680kW), P51KDACT-ND (51kW)
Mouser: 279-CPF0805B2M0E1 (2MW), 754-RG2012P-684-BT5 (680kW),
754-RG2012P-513-BT5 (51kW)
element14: 2992247 (2MW), 2337965 (680kW), 1670250 (51kW)
Those three retailers should also sell a lot of the other parts required for the
SmartProbe.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
lithium-ion cells occur when they
are over-discharged and the internal chemistry changes, and then
the degraded cell is subsequently
recharged. LiFePO4 (lithium iron
phosphate) cells are generally considered more stable but can also be damaged by over-discharge.
So if you use an unprotected cell
and accidentally over-discharge it,
you should not attempt to recharge
it. Of course, that means you have to
pay enough attention to know what
has happened.
The requirement for protection
really comes down to your own circumstances and what sort of risks you
are willing to accept. We wouldn’t use
(or suggest) an unprotected cell if we
thought it could be used by someone
who didn’t understand those risks.
In summary, we suggest you purchase one of the cells linked above for
this project so you don’t have to worry
about what will happen if something
goes wrong. It’s easy to accidentally
discharge a battery!
Trouble with circuit
built on protoboard
I’m having trouble with the Simple
LC meter on page 62 of the May 2026
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/20235).
I used AVRDUDESS to program the
ATtiny85 since my copy of Extreme
Burner V1.0 doesn’t support that chip.
I used an AVRMk2 programmer.
I couldn’t program the Lock Fuse
(LB) to 0xFF. It seems to default to
0xFD. AVRDUDESS doesn’t have the
facility to change EEPROM bytes, but
since my 1000pF capacitor is within
1%, I left that for now.
I must state that I built it on some
proto PCB material, the type with a
grid of holes in a 2.54mm pitch. My
capacitor is a mica type. Inductor L1
is a 100μH RF choke from my stock.
74HC04 is a DIP part from TI. I have
mounted two terminal posts for the
unknown part, rather than flying leads
in the article. It is running from a 5V
DC bench power supply.
July 2026 101
Using the MPPT Solar Charger for charging smartphones
I built the MPPT Solar Controller (February & March 2016; siliconchip.au/
Series/296) from one of the last available Altronics kits. I was just wondering
if I could buy a cheap 120W panel from Jaycar and charge a 12V/7.2Ah Jaycar
($36) rather than 80Ah battery mentioned in the article. I don’t want to use it to
control any lighting but to charge mobile phones and similar devices.
I was thinking I could just use an alligator clip to cigarette lighter port connected
straight to the battery. Would this work, or do I need to connect to the LAMP
connector instead? (E. M., Kew, Vic)
● Yes, you can use a 7.2Ah battery. It will charge quicker than a larger battery.
For use with charging mobile phones, connect the mobile phone charger across
the battery directly. The mobile phone charger must be suitable for use with a 12V
supply to deliver the 5V power for charging. Presumably, you will use a cigarette
lighter USB adaptor for charging.
I measured the 8MHz clock at TP2
using my 200MHz oscilloscope. It’s as
close to 8MHz as the scope can measure. There seem to be some problems,
though. When it powers up, the logo is
displayed on the OLED screen. Pressing the CAL switch clears the screen,
then shows the logo again.
After about 25 seconds, the screen
then shows:
Calibrating
Short test leads
Then I see:
Frequency:
3375532Hz
Calibrating
Short test leads
If I measure at TP1, it’s actually
496KHz. If I add a nominal 47μH
inductor, the frequency displayed
changes to 323634Hz but my ‘scope
measures 410KHz. So, the LC meter
frequency shown is way off.
Has the software been changed
recently? I used the posted software
from the 2nd of May. (G. P., Narre
Warren, Vic)
● Building the Simple LC Meter
on a prototype board is possible, but
reliable operation may require small
changes to the values of the 4.7pF
crystal oscillator feedback capacitors,
since protoboard can add unwanted
stray capacitance. These capacitors
should typically be 3.3-10pF.
Programming the fuses and EEPROM
with the correct values is critical for
correct operation. While it isn’t the
software we use primarily, we have
some experience with avrdude/AVRDUDESS and it can definitely program fuses and the EEPROM. It’s odd
that you say it can’t program the lock
fuse to 0xFF, since that should be the
default for this chip per its data sheet.
Have you selected the right chip in
AVRDUDESS (ATtiny85)?
Once the fuses and EEPROM have
been programmed correctly, the frequency reading on the screen will be
right, and everything else should work
as expected.
Digital LC Meter library
isn’t the expected one
I’m in the middle of building the
Wide-Range Digital LC Meter (June
2018; siliconchip.au/Article/11099).
I downloaded the “Wide Range LC
Meter software v1.zip” file and, upon
opening the sketch, I see it includes
the header file “LiquidCrystal_
PCF8574.h”, which corresponds to
the text of the article.
However, the zip file I downloaded
includes the library “LiquidCrystal_
I2C”, which is not the same. This is
not a problem if you follow the article,
but it could cause confusion.
Thanks for a great project. (R. S.,
Wellington, NZ)
● You are right, and there has often
been confusion in relation to these
I2C LCD libraries, especially as there
are some variants that have very similar names.
It’s a while ago now, but we believe
that this project was developed around
the time that the Library Manager was
becoming a reliable choice for installing libraries for the Arduino IDE.
We suspect that we intended to use
the LiquidCrystal_I2C library (hence
its inclusion in the software downloads), but we were able to switch to
the LiquidCrystal_PCF8574 library
instead, meaning that both necessary
libraries could be installed via the
Library Manager.
As you say, the instructions in the
article are correct; let’s hope that the
Library Manager continues to work!
SC200 and general
amplifier questions
I just purchased the SC200 Amplifier kit and I have some questions
(January-March 2017; siliconchip.
au/Series/308). It states that the PSU
should be ±57V nominal. Will I be
able to drive the amplifier to its full
power using a 48V 10A power supply?
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you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
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What modifications do I need to make?
Could I use a 43-0-43V toroidal transformer?
Do I need to change how I connect
the amplifier module to the power
supply module if I am using two transformers to power two channels? (W.
L., Singapore)
● Taking your questions one at
a time, sinewave power delivery is
approximately V2 ÷ 4R, so for ±57V
and 4W speakers, that’s 57V2 ÷ 16W =
about 200W, or 100W for 8W.
Assuming the 48V power supply
you have mentioned supplies ±48V,
with 4W speakers you will get 48V2
÷ 16W = about 144W, or 72W into 8W.
Make sure it’s a split supply; you can’t
use a single-ended 48V DC supply to
power a standard Class-AB amplifier. If it is ±48V, we don’t think any
modifications would be required as
that is close enough to the specified
supply rails.
siliconchip.com.au
Regarding your second question on
using a 43-0-43V toroidal transformer,
it depends on the speaker impedance.
We don’t recommend increasing the
supply voltage for 4W speakers. For
6W or 8W speakers, a small supply
voltage increase might be acceptable.
Still, there are risks. Just a few volts
can make a big difference to whether
the amplifier is operating in the safe
operating area (SOA) or not.
We would expect ±61V DC rails
with 43V secondaries on the transformer, although it could be a little higher depending on mains regulation, tolerances etc. Change all
the MKTs to 100V rated (not hard to
find) since the 63V ratings could be
exceeded. You will need to replace
the 100μF 63V electrolytic with an
80V or 100V type. Just make sure it
will fit on the board.
The small-signal transistors will be
running close to their ratings – the
Australia's electronics magazine
BC546 and BC556 transistors are rated
at 65V. They should be OK, but only
just. If you want to up-rate them, we
suggest switching to the KSC1845FTA
(NPN) and KSC992 (PNP). We haven’t
tested them, but they should give similar performance and they have 120V
ratings.
The bottom line is that if the speaker
impedance is high enough, you could
try it, but you will need to up-rate
some of the parts (especially the capacitors) for safety. If you want to drive
4W speakers, you’re better off using a
lower-
voltage transformer (eg, 35-035V). You won’t lose much power
and it’ll run cooler with much better
margins.
With each SC200 module powered
via a single transformer and power
supply module (that includes the
bridge rectifier and filter capacitors),
you would use the Fig.13 wiring diagram that is shown on page 79 of the
July 2026 103
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Altronics.................................43-46
Blackmagic Design....................... 7
Dave Thompson........................ 103
DigiKey Electronics..................OBC
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................... 9
Jaycar.................. IFC, 26-27, 36-37
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 103
LD Electronics........................... 103
LEDsales................................... 103
Microchip Technology.................. 5
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PCBWay....................................... 11
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SC Ideal Bridge Rectifiers........... 68
SC GPS Synchronised Clock...... 82
Silicon Chip Binders................ 103
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB......... 42
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 25
Silicon Chip Shop................ 69, 79
The Loudspeaker Kit.com.......... 93
Wagner Electronics..................... 10
Errata and on-sale date
Simple LC Meter, May 2026:
the initial batch of PCBs sold,
including in kits, were inadvertently
based on an old version of the
board that had the USB power
input pins shorted together on the
bottom ground layer. All PCBs we
supply have now been replaced
with the correct boards without
the short circuit. Also, the parts
list called for M2 × 5mm machine
screws, but that is too short. The
correct screw length is 10mm. Our
kits now include the longer screws.
Next Issue: the August 2026 issue
is due on sale in newsagents by
Monday, July 27th. Expect postal
delivery of subscription copies in
Australia between July 24th and
August 12th.
104
Silicon Chip
March 2017 issue. This is for wiring up
a single-channel SC200 to the mains
power supply.
Use similar wiring for the second
stereo channel. Only join the grounds
of the two modules at one point, ideally at a star Earth point.
Are power amplifiers
inverting?
Firstly, thanks for the excellent magazine and projects. I have a question
regarding your Studio 350, Ultra-LD
and SC200 power amplifier designs.
Are these non-inverting amplifiers, ie,
are the output signals in phase with the
corresponding input signal?
I want to use them in an active threeway speaker system utilising a pair of
the Studio 350s on the bass drivers and
two pairs of Ultra-LD 200W amplifiers
for the midrange and tweeters. I need
to make sure there aren’t any phasing
issues at the crossover frequencies.
The speakers are Jamo R909s. The
ULDs are superb amps, quiet with
a neutral and detailed sound. (J. M,
Auckland, NZ)
● Those are all non-inverting amplifiers. We don’t think we have ever published an inverting power amplifier,
although some of our amps have been
bridged types with both outputs being
actively driven (so the – outputs are
effectively inverting).
It generally isn’t important whether
a power amplifier is inverting or
non-inverting, since you can almost
always swap the speaker connections
if you want to reverse the phase.
While it’s possible to design a power
amplifier to be inverting, it usually
results in a more complex circuit for no
real benefit. If you needed an inverting
power amplifier, you could use one of
our Amplifier Bridge Adaptors (May
2019; siliconchip.au/Article/11626),
ignoring the non-inverted output.
Air conditioner
controller wanted
I have a problem that I think may be
common to other owners of reverse-
cycle AC units. My nearly new Daikin unit has difficulty tracking the setpoint that I put into the remote. This
is particularly the case when used
with cooling. If I set it for, say, 21°C,
the unit just keeps running until the
room is very cold, many degrees under
the set point.
Australia's electronics magazine
Setting the temperature higher has
little effect, and the actual room temperature will fluctuate depending on
the ambient conditions. I understand
the difficulty for the manufacturers –
the temperature sensor is located on the
wall unit, instead of somewhere else in
the room. I don’t understand why they
don’t make a remote that communicates
constantly with the wall unit to maintain a steady room temperature.
I was considering cobbling something together by combining a thermostat with an IR transmitter to simply
send the on/off code to the wall unit
from the other side of the room and
wonder if you have ever published
something that would do the trick. Perhaps your Circuit Notebook entry on
the Micromite-based Air Conditioner
Remote Control (December 2017;
siliconchip.au/Article/10914)?
I lodged a service call under warranty and was called back by a company engineer who basically told me
that that is just the way it is. (K. W.,
Newport, Vic)
● This does seem to be a design flaw
in many split-system air conditioners,
especially considering that IR sensors
that can read the average temperature
in a room are available and are not
expensive (like our Thermopile-based
Heater Controller from the April 2018
issue; siliconchip.au/Article/11027).
We don’t have a great solution for
this since there are too many different
kinds of air conditioners to support.
As you suggest, a remote sensor that
could send commands to the unit via
infrared would seem to be an ideal
solution, but it would have to be tailored to the specific brand and possibly model. The December 2017 circuit
you mentioned should work if you can
get access to an on/off switch.
Arduino libraries are available for
controlling Daikin air conditioners
(eg, https://github.com/danny-source/
Arduino_DY_IRDaikin). Temperature
sensor interface libraries are also easy
to find.
We also have some Daikin air conditioners to test with, so we will consider
putting together an Arduino-based
remote controller with an onboard
temperature sensor that can either
switch the unit on and off, or adjust
its settings, to provide better control
of the room temperature. If this works,
readers could potentially expand the
code to work with different brands
SC
and models.
siliconchip.com.au
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