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Vintage Radio
Building a 1970s Little General
By Fred Lever
The Little General is
a classic superhet
AM radio design
published in the
April 1940 issue
of Radio & Hobbies
magazine. Some
time ago, I built one
using parts that were
available in 1946, but
I decided to see what
improvements could be
made using parts from
the 1970s.
M
y classic post-war styled (1946)
Little General, shown in Photo
1, used octal valves and contemporary parts. The set was quite heavy
and bulky by today’s standards at
280 × 200 × 200mm and 5kg, but for
1946, that was typical of what a radio
enthusiast could achieve. By 1976,
30 years later, electronics and components had greatly advanced due to
the advent of TV.
So I decided to build a new Little
General using valves and parts that
were available in 1976.
For inspiration, I went through
my valve box and, out of dozens of
TV types, found a 6CS6 pentagrid,
a 6EH7 frame grid pentode and a
6DX8 triode/pentode output valve.
All were new old stock (NOS), still
in their original boxes. With a twogang mini condenser, a suitable aerial
coil and an oscillator coil, the 6CS6
could be the tuner/converter and the
6EH7 could be used as an IF amplification stage.
That IF signal would then be applied
to a diode and filter to demodulate the
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AM and eliminate the remaining RF
signal. As the 6DX8 is a triode/pentode, I could use the triode section as
a diode and the pentode as the audio
amplifier.
To keep things compact, four of the
new (in 1976) silicon diodes can work
as a bridge rectifier in the power supply in place of a 6V4 valve rectifier.
That eases the heater draw and allows
a simpler transformer with just two
secondary windings.
The resulting set (see the lead
photo) measures 230 × 150 × 140mm
and weighs approximately 2kg, so it
is much more compact than my 1946
style model, at 4.8L versus 11.2L. The
more modern miniature valves draw
much less power, reducing the size of
the required power supply. Parts like
IF transformers and valves are about
¼ of the size of the 1946 version. The
performance is similar.
had several types of mini intermediate-
frequency transformers (IFTs) to
choose from. However, I was short
aerial and oscillator coils. Still, I had
a box full of assorted unknown coils
to go through at a later stage.
I wanted to settle the size of the
transformers first as they are the biggest parts on the chassis and affect
the layout more than the small pieces.
Using three valves, I needed 1.3A at
Design process
I will now go through the design
process. Having selected the valves, a
look through the junk boxes showed I
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Photo 1: this 1940s-style Little General
radio I built earlier works well, but it’s
hardly compact and fairly hefty at 5kg.
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Photo 3: I placed the components on the chassis to get a
rough layout, marked the locations, drilled and cut the
holes and then painted it. Here it is ready to start having
parts mounted to it.
6.3V for the heaters and about 30mA
at 250V for the plates. That works out
to about 16W, so a 20W transformer
would be suitable. I had a discarded
soldering iron transformer specified
as “22 watts” on the sticker.
I dismantled the transformer, leaving the mains primary winding on the
bobbin. I replaced the soldering iron’s
30V secondary with a 6.3V winding
for the heaters and a 240V winding
for the HT. I then restacked the transformer, tested it with dummy loads
and finally, varnished it.
I had a Jaycar AS3025 90 × 50mm 8W
general-purpose rectangular speaker
on hand, so I decided to use that for
the radio.
The speaker transformer needed
to reflect the 8W impedance of the
loudspeaker to a higher value for
the plate of the 6DX8. I had a Jaycar
MM2006 2W 12V mains transformer
Photo 2: the aerial coil (left) and
oscillator coil (right) look a bit messy,
but they tune over the required ranges.
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Photo 4: I riveted the valve sockets and mains transformer
to the chassis. Most other components were mounted less
permanently later, via bolts or on tag strips.
that I wired to a 6DX8 in a bench test
circuit configured as a class-A audio
amplifier to see how it performed. The
transformer did an OK job of passing
a couple of watts from the valve to
the speaker.
The impedance of the primary circuit, at maximum power transfer,
was around 12kW. I dismantled the
transformer, stripped off the original
tapped secondary and wound back
on a single secondary with a turns
ratio that matched the 8W speaker to
12kW. I reassembled the transformer
with a slight air gap in the lamination
stack, tested it again, then dunked it
in varnish.
Tuning coils
The mixer stage needed tuning and
oscillator coils that would give a continuous frequency differential matching the intermediate frequency (IF)
while adjusting the tuning gang. For
example, if the tuning coil tuned from
500kHz to 1700kHz over the full rotation of the tuning gang, the oscillator
coil would need to tune from 955kHz
to 2155kHz, ie, 455kHz above the tuning coil (assuming a 455kHz IF).
Both coils needed to be adjustable,
with ferrite cores, and inductances to
suit the broadcast tuning range. Note
that the required ratio on the tuning
coil is about 3:1, while it’s closer to
2:1 for the oscillator coil.
The mini gang I intended to use had
equal aerial and oscillator capacitance
sections. That means series ‘padding’
of the oscillator gang capacitance is
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needed to compress the oscillator
range from 3:1 to 2:1.
I scratched about in my coil junk
box and found nothing that looked
like an oscillator coil, but I did locate
a rough-looking complete ferrite core
coil on a ½” (12.7mm) tube with a
tuning winding and a small primary.
I measured the inductances as 0.1mH
for the big coil and 0.01mH for the
other.
When I hooked it to the gang and
tested for resonance, I found it tuned
from 600kHz to 1800kHz, and screwing the core in and out made a big difference to the range. That was good
enough for the aerial coil.
For the oscillator coil, I had a spare
blank portion of a ¼” (6.35mm) IFT
former left over from previous projects,
so I wound on about 250 turns of scrap
Litz wire and measured its inductance
as 0.08mH. I added a 30-turn tickler
coil of 0.01mH. I tested its resonance
and, with 150pF in series with the
coil, I had a tuning range of 950kHz
to 2300kHz that also varied a fair bit
by moving the slug in and out.
Those two coils were good enough
to start testing.
I found a pair of mini IF cans marked
“L128” and checked their resonance.
Both coils resonated at around 440kHz
with measurements of 1.43mH and
23W. The four adjusting cores worked
on both, so they looked good to go.
Building the set
I dropped the parts gathered so far
onto a sheet of paper and outlined a
June 2025 95
Photos 5 & 6: these photos show the underside of the chassis (left) and top (right) partway through construction. Most of
the larger parts are in place, with the smaller components and wiring to do.
likely layout. That layout provided
a template for the chassis. The chassis is so small that some light gauge
sheet (from a computer case) sufficed. I centre-punched the holes and
used drills and hole saws to make
the cutouts.
I made a few adjustments, like slotting the control spindle holes so I
could drop those parts in and out easily. I sprayed a light undercoat on the
inside and a light coat of white paint
on the outside, giving the result shown
in Photo 3.
I then started mounting parts on the
chassis, pop riveting some parts permanently into place, like the valve
sockets and tag strips, as shown in
Photo 4.
Next, I mounted the heavy parts,
followed by lighter parts like the coils
and gang. I mounted the tuning gang
using some spacers to lift the shaft to
the centre height of the speaker. I left
the actual dial drum for later and used
a large knob to move the gang spindle
temporarily.
I also bolted a pot shaft to the chassis for a string drive. That shaft bush
and nut were later secured to a strip
of Bakelite on which the tuning coils
were mounted. I made access holes in
the chassis front panel for the slugs of
the tuning coils.
I fitted some tag strips underneath
and squeezed another tag strip on the
top of the chassis behind the speaker.
On that, I mounted the filter capacitors and three 4.7kW PW5 ceramic
resistors in parallel for ~1.5kW total
to use in the HT filter. I pushed the
resistors hard up against the transformer as a heat sink.
Underneath, I mounted a small MB4
bridge rectifier on a tag strip and wired
the HT through the filters to the 6DX8.
I then completed the mains and the
heater wiring to the sockets. It was time
to power it up and road test the 6DX8
with the new power supply.
The audio stage
Having completed the power supply
and 6DX8 wiring, I increased the AC
input voltage in small steps using a
variac to reform the electrolytic capacitors. Nothing smoked, and I measured 313V DC at the rectifier output
and 6.6V AC on the heaters. The three
4.7kW 5W HT dropper resistors lowered the 313V DC to 284V DC.
I had wired the 6DX8 with a 330W
bias resistor, keeping in mind the
plate rating of 18mA, and measured a
24V drop across the HT resistor and
6V bias, both indicating about 20mA
being drawn. The audio stage tested
OK with an input sensitivity of 0.5V
for clipping and no audible hum.
The IF stage
I wired in the 6EH7 and 6CS6 and
fluked the oscillator tickler coil phasing, allowing the oscillator to run
immediately. I aimed to prove the IF
part of the circuit first but encountered
Photos 9 & 10: shown adjacent is the set with a temporary
tuning knob, while above is the tuning knob string
arrangment I came up with.
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Photos 7 & 8: the photo on the left shows the initial stage of under-chassis wiring, while on the right I have added and
wired up the smaller components too.
problems feeding a 440kHz IF signal
through the control grid of the 6CS6.
Usually, I just kill the local oscillator and treat the converter as a straight
RF valve to pass the IF signal into the
control grid and through the IF transformer set. In this case, if I shut down
the local oscillator, the 6CS6 valve
would not pass a signal from its control grid to the plate! As soon as I
unblocked the oscillator grid circuit,
the valve would self-bias and work as
an RF amplifier.
However, if I blasted several volts
of 440kHz into the 6CS6 grid, enough
passed through the plate that I could
at least peak the cores. There were
many other problems with making
the IF section work, but suffice it
to say that after a hard struggle, it
worked well.
One important lesson I learned was
that the 6EH7 needs a separate, stable
screen supply, not one shared with
the converter. Also, the 6EH7 is a very
high-gain valve and needs an AGC bias
feedback control on top of a pedestal
of self-bias to work stably at all signal
strengths.
With the IF system working, I had
to adjust the tuning and oscillator
coils so that, with the tuning gang set
anywhere in its range, the oscillator
frequency was 440kHz higher than
the tuned station frequency. The initial oscillator range of 1000kHz to
2700kHz was too high. I left the coil
turns the same but changed the padder capacitor value, added a trimmer
on the gang and varied the coil core
position.
By juggling those three factors, I
achieved the desired range.
The next job was to make the tuning
coil resonate from 500kHz to 1800kHz.
With the core set so that good coupling was achieved from primary to
secondary, I could not get the bottom
frequency under about 650kHz, and
then the top was around 2300kHz,
both too high, indicating insufficient
turns on the coil.
I pulled one lead end off the big
winding, joined some Litz wire and
wound on another 40 turns. I then got
a range of 549kHz to 1890kHz, close
enough to work.
Next, I carefully measured the actual
difference in frequency between the
two coils at multiple points over the
tuning range. My first tests concluded
that the variation was about ±20kHz
around 450kHz over the tuning range.
With a bit more careful adjustment of
the coils, I reduced that error to ±5kHz
– see Fig.1.
As a product of that process, the
mean IF value increased to about
455kHz. I deemed that acceptable, as
the IFTs have a passband broad enough
to encompass the deviation without a
significant loss of coupling.
With those changes, the set started
to act like a real receiver. The volume could be adjusted from zero to
Fig.1: this plot shows the difference in the tuning
and oscillator coil resonances (vertical axis)
as the dial is rotated (horizontal axis). The red
plot is what I found initially, with a variation of
more than ±20kHz from an average of 450kHz.
Some tweaking gave me the blue curve, within
about ±5kHz from 455kHz over most of the range,
resulting in more consistent performance.
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June 2025 97
Fig.2 (above): this is my revised version of the Little
General circuit. There are other changes besides the
different valve lineup, such as the volume control
method (attenuation of the audio signal rather
than varying the valve bias) and the oscillator coil
arrangement (tapped rather than two coupled windings).
Fig.3 (below): the original Little General circuit diagram
from Radio & Hobbies, April 1940. You can find all the
changes I made in my circuit by comparing the two.
Still, the overall configuration (number of valves and
purpose) is very similar.
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maximum, and the audio output was
level no matter what station it was
tuned into. At this stage, the circuit,
shown in Fig.2, was pretty much final.
You can compare it to the original Little General circuit, Fig.3.
The AGC voltage was low on a
weak station, around -1V with 4.2V
across the IF valve bias resistor. On
a strong station, the AGC signal measured -12V and the cathode measured
1.5V, indicating that the valve was
throttled, trying to keep a consistent
IF signal level.
However, the set was full of heterodyne whistles! They led me on
another merry chase, trying this and
that with little effect. Having run out
of ideas, I realised that the set, while
very selective, was not that sensitive,
needing a fair length of antenna to
work. I decided to look at that problem first.
Harking back to the 6CS6 not wanting to work as a plain RF amplifier, I
tried another 6CS6 valve. For this test,
I tuned the receiver with the original
valve and settled the RF level so the
AGC was –12V.
I then swapped the valve for a
grubby, well-used XTV chassis 6CS6
(from a different manufacturer), and
as it warmed up, without moving anything else, I was amazed to see the AGC
climb past -12V and settle at -24V!
That was not just double the gain, as
the AGC works up a slope throttling
the 6EH7, but many times the gain.
The AGC system was now working
even better, with the 6EH7 operating
over a huge bias range, drawing 4mA
with no signal and throttling back to
around 0.2mA on 2RPH, with a mean
level of around 2mA on average stations.
The net result was that the audio
level was consistent, irrespective of
the station signal level. Off-station,
the background frying and fizzling
from all the suburb rooftop inverters
comes up, while on-station, the background noise disappears and stations
tune in loudly.
I then realised that the whistle problem was also gone! Thinking about
this later, I suspect the 6CS6 might not
have been the best choice. While it is
a pentagrid, the valve was designed to
be used as a sync pulse separator. A
minor manufacture variation that had
no effect on separator use may have a
large impact when used for another
application like this one.
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Scope 1: testing the
IF response with
a swept sinewave
fed into the radio
reveals that it is
pretty symmetrical
about the ~450kHz
intermediate
frequency.
Scope 2: the signal
from the volume
control pot’s wiper
with a station
tuned in. You can
see the lowerfrequency audio
signal is overlaid
with higherfrequency noise, the
remnant of the IF
(and possibly RF)
signals.
Scope 3: the audio
signal delivered
to the speaker is
cleaner than that
shown in Scope
2, mainly due to
filtering by the 1nF
capacitor across the
speaker coil.
I also tried a second old 6CS6,
which worked just as well as its stablemate. Still, no real conclusion can
be drawn with a sample of just three
valves. I suspect a radio type 6BE6
would be a better choice. Another
possibility is that my NOS 6CS6 was
simply faulty!
Returning to the IF stage
I went back to the IF, swept it, and
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took some shots of the response. The
sweep response was quite symmetrical on either side of 450kHz, as shown
in Scope 1. Note that this is an ‘active’
response curve as the AGC is working
and limiting the gain. However, the
general response is evident.
When tuned to a station, after the
volume control, I found a signal of
over 120mV peak-to-peak with a fair
amount of RF still present (Scope 2).
June 2025 99
Photos 11 & 12: I turned five-ply
timber on a lathe and routed a
channel around to hold the string.
Note the tension spring on the back of
the dial.
By the time we get through the 6DX8,
and with the help of the top-cut capacitor on the plate, we wind up with a
clean audio signal of around 140V
peak-to-peak at the plate (Scope 3).
Finishing it off
The final chassis is not one of my
neatest jobs and would benefit from
being stripped out and rebuilt, with
some parts moved. Placing an electrolytic capacitor next to a hot output
valve is not the most sensible move.
However, it was good enough to function, and I wanted to press on, finalise
the cabinet and dial and get to the end.
With a tuning knob spindle already
mounted on the chassis, I needed a
drum on the tuning capacitor to couple to the spindle. I had nothing in
the junk box, so I grabbed a flat scrap
of five-ply timber and made a drum
about 80mm in diameter. I machined
a string groove in the centre of the
outer rim.
I had a Jaycar ¼in (6.35mm) bore
hub (Cat YG2784) that matched the
gang shaft and fitted that to the centre of the timber wheel. Next, I drilled
holes to thread the string ends through
the drum from the rim groove. These
short holes emerge at an angle at the
back of the drum. One hole allowed
one end of a string to be anchored to
a wood screw.
The string then goes around the
drum, down to the spindle, two-and-ahalf times around the spindle and back
up to the drum, then down through a
second hole, terminated to a spring to
maintain some tension on the string.
I sketched out a cabinet design
made of plywood with a circular dial
opening and then looked for something to make a dial bezel. What I
needed was something round and
shiny. My eye fell on some tin cans
in the kitchen recycling bin. I put a
can in the lathe and bored the end
out of it. Then I swung the tool post
around and cut the end off, giving me
a ‘chrome’ bezel.
The idea for the cabinet was to have
the front panel recessed from the front
to protect the knobs. Otherwise, it’s a
simple box made from five-ply timber with glue fillet joints and a back
plate with slots to let air in and form
a handle. The dial bezel and a bunch
of ¼in (6.35mm) holes for the speaker
completed the front panel.
The back is then held in with four
screws that go into the chassis blocks
and two top blocks. One of those also
limits the power transformer’s upward
movement.
With the basic box made, I sanded
it down a bit and flowed on a coat of
red stain. I repeated that a couple of
times, with sanding in between, until
I had a reasonably smooth finish. Ultimately, I decided that sticking one’s
fingers into the live works to carry
it was not a good idea, so I carefully
added a flat strap to the top as a proper
carry handle.
Conclusion
It has some flaws, such as parts not
quite lined up straight, rat’s nest wiring
and values that need optimising. These
are properties of prototype radios that
would be ironed out in a production
run. Still, I am not a manufacturer, so
it will do.
As with any other scratch-built project, there was far more work involved
in getting it to work than this article reveals. Much more detail can be
found at the following links (parts 1-3):
• siliconchip.au/link/abtk
• siliconchip.au/link/abtl
SC
• siliconchip.au/link/abtm
Photos 13-15: the last few steps required before assembly involved making the timber cabinet, which I then stained red.
The complete Little General radio was more compact, weighing ~2kg; about half the weight of the radio shown in Photo 1.
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