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Feature by Julian Edgar
There are so many useful
parts just waiting to
be collected in the
consumer goods
that people throw
away. Here’s what
to look for.
SALVAGING PARTS
T
he electronic equipment I build
seems to use a lot of cooling fans
and heatsinks. Those heatsinks range
from the small ones that cool individual transistors up to those that are
200mm or more in length, while the
fans go from tiny ones to 150mm in
diameter. The good news is that, over
the years, I have paid nothing for any
of them!
It isn’t just fans and heatsinks. I also
get free plugs, sockets, switches, bearings, stepper motors, mains filters and
IEC sockets... the list goes on and on.
The trick is to salvage parts from the
electrical consumer goods that others
throw away.
Let’s look now at some of the most
productive discarded goods to salvage.
There are warnings for some items, so
make sure you read them before doing
any disassembly.
Photocopiers
Photocopiers are always worth
salvaging, and the bigger they are,
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the better. I once saw a huge Kodak
commercial printer advertised free
of charge. I just had to take it away. I
knew it was going to be big, but when
I broke a sling trying to hoist it onto a
trailer with my engine crane, I thought
I was defeated.
The company was so eager to get
rid of it that they agreed that I could
dismantle it in their car park. I could
take what I wanted and put the rest
in their skip (it was too big to fit in
the skip without being pulled apart).
I still marvel at the quality of components that I got out of that machine.
But let’s get back to more normal size
photocopiers...
The quality and number of useful
components that you’ll find in a photocopier depends a lot on the specific
machine. Unfortunately, there’s no
way of knowing until you pull it apart.
Some photocopiers have as many five
DC brushless fans, while others have
only two.
Some photocopiers have large
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stepper motors but other use synchronous AC motors, which are much less
useful. Then again, finding out what
you’re getting is part of the excitement of salvaging parts from discarded
equipment.
You’ll find lights and fans inside
all photocopiers. The lights are high-
voltage, high-power incandescent filament bulbs that are used both to illuminate the material to be copied and
also as a heater to cook the toner as the
photocopied sheets are on their way
out of the machine. The latter light
often includes an over-temperature
switch mounted nearby.
In addition, you’ll sometimes find
rows of mains-powered neons or
low-voltage LEDs. The fans consist primarily of conventional PC-type fans;
they often run from 24V but they’ll
work down to 12V without problems.
Sometimes, if you get lucky, you’ll
find a bunch of high-flow squirrel-cage
fans. These are most often mains-
powered, but a few work on 24V DC.
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A typical older photocopier, partway
through disassembly. Photocopiers
are always worth savaging for their
parts; the larger the machine, the
better. You’ll find lenses, front-faced
mirrors, low current and heavyduty switches and often good quality
stepper motors.
Three stepper motors (bottom) and an AC motor with a built-in reduction
gearbox (top) salvaged from a photocopier. The AC motor had an output
shaft speed of just 53 RPM, making it ideal for spinning an advertising sign
or the like.
Two cooling fans, LED lights and incandescent lights.
The latter can also be used as high-power resistors.
All photocopiers contain
at least one very sharp
lens. They are ideal
for use as close-up
magnifying glasses.
There is a lot
of salvageable
hardware
inside a typical
photocopier,
like springs,
pulleys,
machine screws
and self-tapping
screws.
You can also be guaranteed to find
an excellent quality lens (typical focal
length: 180mm) and several mirrors.
The lenses are razor sharp and make
ideal hand magnifying glasses. They’re
large and bright, and some are coated
for better light transmission.
The mirrors are front-faced and of a
length that corresponds to the width of
the photocopy area. Typically, they’re
10 to 20mm wide, so they’re long and
narrow. I haven’t found a lot of use for
them (except, oddly enough, winding high-powered resistors on them),
but if you’re into lasers or other optical systems and need a very low-cost,
high-quality mirror, there are plenty
waiting for you!
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Even if the photocopier’s main
transport system is powered by an
AC motor, there will still be a few
low-voltage stepper motors inside. For
example, if the copier uses a document
feeder, there’ll be a stepper motor buried in that part of the machine.
However, occasionally you stumble
across gold – huge stepper motors with
built-in reduction gearboxes. These are
highly prized (and if you don’t want
them, you can make a good profit selling them). They can be used to drive
robots or three-axis milling machines,
or be driven backwards and used as
surprisingly powerful alternators.
There are two completely different
classes of switches that you’ll find
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in a copier. The most numerous are
the tiny tactile PCB-mounted press-
buttons mounted behind the membrane keypad.
If these are extracted from the PCB
by using a heat gun directed at the solder side, while at the same time a pair
of pointy-nosed pliers is used to pull
them out, many can be salvaged in a
very short time.
There will also be another pair of
high-current switches: the main on/
off switch (normally on the back of
the photocopier) and a pushbutton
switch that goes open-circuit when
the top half of the copier is pivoted
up for repair or toner replacement.
The latter two switches are definitely
July 2025 55
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mind. If it was recently powered or
you aren’t sure, use our Capacitor Discharger (December 2024; siliconchip.
au/Article/17310) to make sure they
are fully discharged as soon as you
can access them.
This list of parts hasn’t been exhaustive – I haven’t mentioned the LED displays, the electromechanical counter,
the electric clutches, bearings or
shafts. There are usually plenty of good
bits to salvage.
Even if you don’t keep a lot of stuff,
pulling apart a photocopier is a fun
exercise in itself – it’s fascinating to see
how the engineers have fitted a complex machine into a compact package.
used it as a cooling spray on a turbo
car intercooler!
Washing machines
siliconchip.au/Article/16677
Coffee machines
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts.
Audio Breakout board and Pico BackPack are
sold separately.
You wouldn’t normally think of
looking inside a discarded espresso
coffee machine for good parts – but, in
fact, there’s a bunch of useful goodies
inside. In addition to switches, pilot
lights (sometimes neon, sometimes
LED), stainless steel fasteners and normally closed temperature switches,
there’s the pump – and what a pump!
Coffee machines contain a mains-
powered oscillating (sometimes
rotary) water pump that is capable
of very high pressures – over 15bar
(218psi). These pumps are fantastic
where you want highly atomised water
– just use high-pressure hose and fittings to attach the pump to a good
quality brass misting nozzle.
You cannot run the pump continuously (it gets too hot), but if you cycle
it on and off, it will be fine. When
salvaging the pump, don’t forget to
also get the rubber mounts on which
it sits – in operation, these pumps
vibrate at 50Hz. I’ve actually run one
of these pumps from an inverter and
Washing machines have changed
a lot over the years. Whereas once
a typical washing machine was a
top-loading, belt-driven design with
mechanical timer controls, machines
now include technology like directdrive motors, fully electronic controls
and plenty of wiring. Those aspects
make any washing machine built in
the last 20 years worthy of salvaging
for its internal parts.
All washing machines have a powerful electric motor inside. Most
machines are belt-driven; that is,
they use an electric motor that’s easily removed and can then be used as
a standalone motor to drive anything
you want – from a workshop sander
to a fan.
If removing the motor, don’t forget
to also get the start and run capacitor, if fitted.
Some washing machines – notably
Fisher & Paykel designs – use a very
special, large diameter, direct-drive
motor. These can be removed, complete with the stainless-steel shaft and
bearings, and then used as a wind generator, water generator, or even brushless DC motor.
We described how to convert one
of those motors to a generator for a
windmill in the January 2005 issue
(siliconchip.au/Series/84), and how to
use one as a motor in February 2012
(siliconchip.au/Article/766). Even if
you decide you don’t want it, these
motors are worth money second hand.
The electric pump from a washing
machine is usually quiet, relatively
low power (30~40W), can handle hot
Metric stainless-steel cap-screws
salvaged from a coffee machine. You
pay real money for stainless steel
fasteners like these, but here they
were free.
A microswitch, two normally open
temperature switches (107°C) and a
DPDT mains relay rated at no less
than 16A, all hidden in a discarded
coffee machine.
worth salvaging; they are heavy duty
with typical ratings of 16A at 250V AC.
Cautions
When you’re pulling apart a photocopier, you need to be careful of a few
things. Disassemble the copier outside
while wearing old clothes – inevitably,
toner will get everywhere.
Some copiers use torsion bar springs
to counterbalance the weight of the
open top half; these springs are very
powerful and if you undo their retaining screws while they’re under tension, they can fly out.
Other copiers use small gas struts –
another excellent salvage part.
The high-voltage power supplies
have onboard capacitors that could
give a nasty bite – they’ll be fine if
the copier hasn’t been powered-up
recently, but keep the potential in
Inside discarded coffee machines
you’ll find a very special pump. An
AC design that oscillates at mains
frequency, the pump produces very
high pressure (over 15bar) and is safe
to use with water.
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If you can get them for nothing, washing machines are well worth pulling apart for their components. The water-control
solenoids from washing machines are worth salvaging, especially if they’re 12V designs. Like the one shown at upper
right, however, most are mains-powered. These LEDs, pushbutton switches and the rotary encoder were salvaged from
the control panels of just two washing machines. All washing machines contain mains-powered pumps as shown at lower
right. They’re quiet, use little power, can handle hot water and have removable filters.
water and has a removable lint filter.
These characteristics make the pumps
excellent for circulating water in a
solar water heater or for low pressure
water transfer.
However, if using a pump in this
way, always ensure the wiring is
appropriately insulated and Earthed
and that water cannot come in contact with it.
There are two (sometimes three)
solenoids in each washing machine.
These are electrically operated valves
that control water flow. Most washing
machines use mains-powered solenoids, but some use 12V solenoids.
The solenoids can be used whenever mains-pressure (or lower) water
supply needs to be switched on and
off. The lower-voltage solenoids can
be easily and safely used to control
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water flow in a variety of applications,
including solar water heating systems,
gardening or recreational vehicles.
They will cope with high water
pressures and are usually leak-proof.
The mains-powered solenoids should
be used only in insulated surroundings.
Old washing machines use a
mechanical pressure switch to detect
the water level. The water level adjustment is achieved by altering the spring
preload. These switches are simple to
use, high current, very sensitive and
are always worth salvaging. An example use is for warning of a low water
level in a rainwater tank.
More modern washing machines use
variable output electronic water level
sensors. That sounds good, but most
of these sensors appear to use an iron
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core moving within encapsulated electronics and I haven’t found an effective
way to interface with them.
Many washing machines now incorporate heater elements to allow higher
water temperatures than can be provided by the domestic water heater
(and/or to allow a single cold water
hose to be used).
These machines use a temperature
sensor to monitor the water. These sensors are excellent parts to grab, being of
stainless-steel construction and with
quite a quick reaction time. They use
an NTC thermistor, where the resistance falls as its temperature rises. As
such, they are suitable for temperature
sensing in a range of applications.
Most electronics in washing
machines is ‘potted’ – that is, the
boards are covered with a thick layer
July 2025 57
of rubbery plastic, waterproofing them.
It’s pretty well impossible to salvage
components from these boards.
However, the control panel is usually not potted. By placing the control panel board in a vice and using
the heat gun approach described earlier, it’s possible to salvage parts in
literally seconds. Parts likely to be
available include LEDs, switches and
rotary encoders.
There is a surprisingly large
amount of hardware in many washing
machines. Much of it is of high quality: stainless-steel self-tapping screws,
heavily plated machine screws, and –
in front-loaders – many long self-tapping hex-headed bolts (they hold the
drum halves together).
Because the washing machine tub
needs to cope with out-of-balance
loads, most machines also incorporate springs to allow tub lateral movement (top loaders) or vertical movement (front-loaders). These springs are
heavy-duty and a well worth salvaging. You’ll also find a variety of rubber
hoses and spring clips.
Finally, there’s usually plenty of
wire of different gauges and colours
– perfect whenever you need a short
length of hook-up wire.
Video cassette recorders
VCRs were once among the most
numerous of electronic consumer
goods being discarded. Now, they’re
becoming much rarer, but they do still
sometime pop up as giveaways. Contrary to what you might expect, the
best bits are mechanical rather than
electronic.
The pick of the bunch is the video
drum assembly – I am happy to pull
apart a VCR just for the video drum.
Why? It contains a precision-ground,
hardened steel shaft. It also uses two
precision sealed ball bearings that perfectly match the shaft.
You also have two light alloy housings, one of which is normally a press
fit on the shaft and the other that
houses the two bearings. Finally, there
is a brass collar with a grub screw that
fits perfectly on the shaft.
In almost any application where
you need small bearings and a shaft
Shown in the left photo is the rotating video head from a VCR. Even the cheapest VCR has a good-quality spinning
assembly, and in disassembling over 50 VCRs, I’ve yet to come across one with worn-out bearings. At right, the video
drum from a VCR contains precision matched components, including a hardened steel shaft, two bearings and two alloy
castings. The brass collar, complete with retaining grub screw, is a tight fit on the shaft.
Top: PCB-mounting RCA sockets
salvaged from a VCR.
Right: a sensitive wind vane that uses
the components from a video drum for
its rotating bearing.
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or axle (robotics, a wind vane, small
wind generator, model car etc) these
parts can be used. Furthermore, as
they’re pretty well standard across
all VHS VCRs; if you need two axles
(or four bearings etc), just keep collecting!
In addition to the video drum, inside
a VCR you’ll also typically find small
springs, switches, wire-wound resistors and RCA sockets. You will also
often find a DC brush-type permanent
magnet motor that uses a worm reduction drive to turn a slowly rotating
output shaft. It would make a perfect
winch for a model boat, or a merrygo-round for a model railway layout
or kids’ toy.
Cordless drills
If VCRs are now getting scarce, the
same can’t be said for cordless drills –
they seem to be thrown away in their
thousands every week.
At the tip, at garage sales, even in
kerbside rubbish pick-ups; there are
now always plenty of defective battery-powered electric drills. You might
even have one or more broken cordless drills tucked away at the back of
your workbench.
Cordless drills usually have a maximum speed of 1000RPM or even less.
To reduce the speed of the DC electric
motor, and to increase the torque, a
planetary gearbox is used. In fact, most
often there are two planetary gearsets
back-to-back – rather like the gear systems used in traditional automotive
automatic transmissions.
And like automotive transmissions,
some cordless drills let you select
between ratios – more on that in a
moment.
For their size, planetary gears are
very strong and, especially when
two sets are used, allow high reduction ratios to be achieved in small
volumes. Considering their size and
torque capacity, these are really nice
little gearboxes.
The torque multiplication might be
achieved by the gearbox, but if you
want to be able to quickly drill holes –
or screw screws – you need power. It’s
provided by a high-current DC brushed
motor. Brushless motors are now available in electric drills, but I haven’t seen
many yet on the discard pile.
Typical drill motors draw around
10A at 12V when stalled, and considering they are about the size of a
D cell, that’s a powerful motor you’ve
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A discarded battery-powered drill contains a powerful low-voltage, brushed DC
electric motor and a compact but strong epicyclic gearbox. Many also contain a
PWM speed controller.
The epicyclic gearbox. Many drills use two geartrains mounted back-to-back,
while some allow two different gear ratios to be manually selected.
A brushed electric drill motor being driven by a crank placed in the chuck,
making a low-voltage hand-powered generator. Over 2.5W is easily available, so
a powerful LED can be driven, or via a 5V converter, a phone charged.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2025 59
Top ten parts to salvage
We’ve been looking at the parts you
can salvage from specific pieces of
equipment, but you can turn the process around and look at the best parts
to get. Here are the top ten.
1. Knobs
Whenever you see a piece of equipment
with quality knobs on it, grab them! It
takes literally seconds to pull knobs off,
and it makes such a difference when
you’re building a project if you can just
go to your storage drawers and immediately lay your hands on a knob that’s
just perfect for the application.
It’s also interesting sorting through
different knobs and feeling the way in
which they work – some knobs (eg,
amplifier volume controls) need to be
large and smoothly contoured; others
(like the adjustment knob on an electronic thermostat) need to be small
and much better shaped to suit fine
adjustment.
2. Switches
A switch is one type of electronic component that doesn’t go out of date.
Over the years, I’ve collected switches
from:
∎ VCRs (miniature pushbuttons,
microswitches and the contactless Hall
Effect switches often used on the video
drum chassis)
∎ photocopiers (the switch that
deactivates the power when the lid is
raised)
∎ old electric typewriters (typically,
the main on/off switch is a quality pushfit rocker design)
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∎ amplifier input selectors (a multipole rotary switch)
∎ old washing machines (the water
level switch – a very sensitive pressure switch)
∎ miscellaneous heavy duty equipment (high-current switches)
All are useful and, even better, easy
to use.
3. Cable clamps, mounts and holders
Whenever you run wires or cables
around inside a piece of equipment,
there’s a need to hold them in place.
Inside commercial equipment, you’ll find
the full gamut of cable and wire holders
– bendy insulated metal strips, steel
clamps, plastic clamps, clamps that pop
into chassis holes and clamps that hold
mains-power cables. It’s always worth
collecting these.
4. Fuses
Fuses are another example of a component that doesn’t date – a 50-year-old
glass fuse and holder are just as useful
today as back then.
As a matter of course, I collect fuses
from all sorts of equipment. If the fuse
holder is inline or an easily removed
chassis-mount design, I collect those
too.
You can also obtain very useful fusible links from car fuse and relay boxes,
and much industrial equipment contains
resettable circuit breakers.
I also collect the two different sizes
of blade fuse used in vehicles. It is not
at all hard to collect enough fuses that
you’ll never need to buy one again – or
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spend the time travelling to the shop to
buy that required obscure value.
5. Relays
Relays are extraordinarily useful –
rugged (basically impossible to blow
up unless you do something really
stupid!), universal within voltage and
current restraints, and easy to wire
up. An enormous range of equipment
and appliances have relays inside –
you can easily collect one from every
even moderately complex bit of gear
you salvage.
Commercial equipment often uses
solid-state relays, and I remember picking up the ABS (anti-lock braking) controller from a car and realising with joy
that it contained no less than six small
high-current 12V relays!
6. LEDs
The idea of salvaging LEDs from equipment can seem silly – why bother when
LEDs are so cheap new?
First, it’s easy to salvage LEDs you
cannot readily buy in shops – those
with odd lens shapes (eg, long rectangular types) and LEDs with unusual
colours.
Second, using the heat-gun-and-
pliers approach mentioned above, it
takes almost no time to salvage dozens
of LEDs. I often use shop-bought LEDs
in projects, but nearly as frequently,
I’ll want something out of the ordinary
and reach for my little drawers of salvaged LEDs.
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I come across – they’re amongst my
‘most-utilised’ salvaged parts.
7. Plugs & sockets
If you’re trying to find the right plug for
a socket (eg, a DC socket that requires
the correct mains adaptor), a visit to an
electronics supplier is often required.
If, on the other hand, you’re building a
piece of equipment and need a similar function low voltage DC plug-andsocket combination, it’s often much
easier and cheaper to use some that
you’ve salvaged.
For example, I often use RCA-style
plugs as low-voltage DC power connections – they’re polarised, non-shorting
and can handle reasonable current.
You can salvage RCA sockets from any
audio or video consumer item that’s
been thrown away. The plugs are almost
as often discarded on audio interlink
cables!
8. Heatsinks
Heatsinks are available in discarded
goods in a huge range of sizes – from
small ‘tab’ style ones in power supplies to large heatsinks in audio amplifiers, and every size in between. When
building projects, it pays to have a
large variety of heatsinks on hand.
That’s because there is often not only
a requirement for heat handling but
also physical requirements as to size
and shape.
For example, space might be tight
in one direction, or the flat mounting
surface on which the components are
to be mounted might need to be a certain shape. I collect all heatsinks that
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9. Small motors
Many items that people throw away
contain electric motors. Bread makers
use mains-powered universal brushedtype electric motors; electric typewriters, printers and fax machines use
stepper motors; and VCRs contain
small low-voltage brushed motors.
And as we’ve seen, washing machines
and other larger goods contain mains-
powered induction motors.
I tend to collect just the following motors types: small low-voltage
brushed motors (good for making fans
and kids’ toys), and large and small stepper motors (good for robots, model railways and hand-cranked generator projects). Motors (of any sort) that can be
removed complete with reduction geartrains are always useful.
10. Fans
Cooling fans inside discarded equipment come in all shapes and sizes.
PC-style fans can be found in PCs (yes,
really!) and photocopiers. Fans with
removable blades can be salvaged from
microwave ovens, but open a microwave
only if you know exactly what you are
doing – they can be very dangerous.
Squirrel-cage fans are used in much
industrial equipment, as well as some
types of domestic heaters. Fans are
typically either mains-powered or run
from 12V or 24V DC. Considering
the cost of new fans (especially large
ones), real savings can be made in
this area.
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got your hands on – especially since
it cost nothing!
Many cordless drills have an
electronic variable speed function,
achieved by pulse-width modulating the power feed to the motor. The
switching transistor is mounted on a
separate interior heatsink and the rest
of the control electronics are integrated
with the trigger switch. A reversing
switch is often mounted directly above
the speed control.
Even if you grab just this bit, you
have a high-current, low-voltage electric motor speed control (or light dimmer etc). Finally, most of these drills
have an adjustable slipping clutch that
allows the peak torque to be set before
drive ceases.
There are plenty of uses for these
bits and pieces. One of the easiest is
to simply pull the body of the drill
apart (because they are low voltage
devices, tamper-proof screws aren’t
fitted, making it really easy) and cut
the wires at the motor. Bend a piece of
steel rod into a crank-shaped handle
and lock one end in the chuck. Turn
the handle and you have a powerful
small DC electric generator.
How powerful? On one unit I measured, it was quite easy to run a halfamp load at 5V – that’s 2.5W. 2.5W is
plenty to run high efficiency power
LEDs, or even work through a 5V regulator to charge a phone.
If you pick a drill that has two
user-selectable gear ratios, it works
even better. In one ratio, turning the
handle is easy, but the amount of
power generated is lower. Or, you can
slide over the gear selection lever and
have around twice the power output
at the same rotational speed – but, of
course, it will be much harder to turn
the handle.
The motor/gearbox/clutch/chuck
assembly can also be used wherever
a high torque output, low-voltage
mechanical drive is needed. For example, two of the assemblies can easily be combined to form the individual wheel traction motors for a small
robot (or use four for the ultimate in
manoeuvrability!).
Alternatively, the assembly can be
used as a small winch, eg, to hoist a
model railway baseboard up near the
ceiling when it isn’t being used. In
these applications, the built-in slipping clutch is a real asset, as it stops
the motor from being overloaded when
SC
the output is stalled.
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