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SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Remotely Interesting
Dave Thompson
The internet is a blessing and a curse. It lets us do lots of things from
just about anywhere, but it can also give access to people we don’t want
accessing our files and bank accounts! This has made some people
nervous about remote access, and that makes my job more difficult.
This modern age is something else; I’ve said and thought
it, as have many others. However, engineers and philosophers have been saying so since the dawn of time. At one
point, a sundial was the pinnacle of technology. They still
exist, albeit mostly as garden ornaments, but I have seen
some very old, used and working examples in Rome and
other historic places.
Modernisation is always a double-edged sword. What
makes better microwave ovens also makes more effective
weapons.
Since we first had the technology, remotely controlling
something has been a prized goal. Early radio-controlled
model aeroplanes were basic and usually only had just
one channel controlling a rudder via an escapement-type
arrangement. The transmitters were large, valve-based,
battery-
powered, and usually just a switch to change
between left, right and oh-it’s-crashing modes.
The range was not great back then. These days, the
transmitters and receivers are much more advanced and
reliable, with multiple channels, continuous controls and
such. Some even provide remote point-of-view (POV) video
from the aircraft!
When I was a kid, back in the chalkboard days, my parents had a remote control for their TV. It was my siblings
and me. Fortunately, we only had two channels, so a trained
chimp could have done it. It wasn’t long before Dad modified our TV to use a wired remote: a metal box with a
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pushbutton that had a wire running around the skirting
board into the back of the TV.
I, for one, was very relieved by this innovation. Pretty
soon, those old clunky ultrasonic controllers came along.
I still see them occasionally on old American TV shows,
making an exaggerated click sound and hand movement
when operated. Even when the newfangled infrared (IR)
LED types replaced them, the remotes on those shows still
made the click sound!
In the 1980s, suddenly everything was remote controlled.
Stereos, radios, heaters, ovens; anything that would help
sell appliances. It got so bad that people had special pockets
in their chairs for all the remotes. Then the universal remote
came along, and that changed everything (pun intended!).
Of course, most of us still have multiple remotes these
days for all our devices, but the whole remote philosophy
really expanded and came into its own during the recent
pandemic. Many companies found that their employees
could work from home and the job would still be done
(something some of us have been doing for so long that
we’ve forgotten what the others look like!).
In fact, many found that the better work/life balance
actually improved productivity and boosted output, even
though fewer actual hours were being worked. Spending
time working that would otherwise be wasted commuting
helps a lot, too!
This caused a lot of wringing of hands and gnashing of
teeth amongst bosses and ‘human resources’ departments,
who considered that despite the increased productivity,
they were somehow being cheated out of chargeable
labour by allowing people to work from home.
Some companies have embraced the new ethos,
and why not? Some have a policy that workers can
choose to come to the office or work from home,
or use a ‘hybrid’ model that involves doing both
on different days.
Some ask that workers come in at least a few times
per week/month to stay in touch with their teams.
The reality is that with technology the way it is now,
people can use the likes of Zoom, Teams or even a
basic remote desktop app to do their jobs effectively.
In some cases, the company can even close or
downsize expensive and capital-draining offices in
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Items Covered This Month
• The perils of remote access
• Repairing a car’s ignition unit
• A dim clock backlight
• Sony ICF7600D receiver repair
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
favour of working from home, with appropriate expenses
and compensation.
Of course, we computer nerds have been able to operate computer systems remotely since the 1990s. One could
argue that hackers have also been able to, because if you
open the door to someone, a sneak thief may take the
opportunity. A huge industry was then built around network and server security.
As is becoming all too clear, this is far from foolproof;
we are always hearing about breaches in defences, especially now we have state-sponsored players in the mix.
Software like Norton’s PC Anywhere and eventually
Microsoft’s Remote Desktop (which is built into all versions of the operating system for client use, but only Pro
versions for controlling use) became the gold standard of
remote access software.
Now, anyone with an internet connection and the correct access permissions could ‘remote in’ and control the
host computer as if they were sitting in front of it. As soon
as these apps were released, the bad guys started looking
for ways through them. Local firewalls became extremely
important, and everyone had to learn a new set of new
words if they were going to use these utilities.
Windows started shipping with a built-in firewall; routers and modems had their own hardware firewalls, and
techs suddenly had migraines from all the hoops they had
to jump through to allow authorised remote connections
to happen.
Nowadays, it is relatively straightforward with utilities
like TeamViewer and virtual private networks (VPNs),
which offer a certain amount of built-in security, depending on how they are set up. The problem is that most ‘hackers’ and scammers now realise that trying to get through is
very difficult compared to the old days, so they play to the
obvious weak links in all these systems: the user.
And they are very good at it. The way to gain access to
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someone’s system is to get the user to install a remote viewing app and give the scammers access. Of course, the ways
they do that are as varied as the scammers. I have known
several people who have lost considerable sums of money
to these con artists.
In one, a 70-year-old widow was played for over a year
to the tune of $85,000 in a so-called ‘lonely hearts’ con by
some very glib, professional shyster. I warned her it was
a scam (she called and asked me about it and I told her
to bail). Her bank put a hold on payments going overseas,
but she overrode them or went to a money transfer place
and sent it that way.
While technology is robust enough nowadays that I
haven’t seen an actual virus infecting a computer in over
10 years, users are unfortunately falling for these scams
more and more.
During the pandemic, I was still getting a few support
calls, and I would ask them to download and install the
run-and-stand-alone version of TeamViewer to be able to
see what was going on with their machines. TeamViewer is
a popular remote control program for Windows machines.
I used that because it doesn’t require any fiddling with network settings, nor even installation.
You just run the downloaded file and
choose ‘run once’. When it fires
up, they then send me the randomised computer ID number
and password displayed in the
app, and I can then connect
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and log in right away from my machine. Once there, I can
do whatever I need as if I’m sitting in front of it. I repair
any problems; transfer any files I might need to run locally
there; and do whatever.
But many users are so paranoid now (and rightly so!)
that as soon as I suggest I can do that, they get nervous and
hem and haw. Many would ask if I could come out to their
place and do it, but under the lockdowns, that just wasn’t
possible. Not to mention that I didn’t want to put myself
at risk anyway – I haven’t contracted COVID-19 yet, and I
have no plans to change that at this stage!
For those that did agree, I did the job and often fixed
their problems, but then when it came to payment, they
would stall and say, well, you never really did anything, so
I’m not paying. That was extremely disappointing coming
from long-term clients, and of course once I log out, I can’t
log back in and return it to how I found it.
Without the machine physically in the workshop, I have
no leverage regarding payment, and instead rely on the
goodwill of people to actually pay for the job I’d done. Of
course, I altered my prices where required, but overall, it
left a sour taste.
That was pandemic times. Lately I’ve had a few overseas
clients from Australia, the USA and England, and the same
model still stands. I can use remote control to gain access
to the computer and help the customer. But of course, this
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is only for software-related problems where Windows is
still running. If it isn’t, then we have a problem.
So how to resolve problems like Windows won’t start,
the network adaptor is not found, or it is faulting and I can’t
access the computer remotely? I had to change strategies
and see if I could inspire the owners to do the job for me.
Now, obviously, some are not going to be up to that,
but for those who might be able to help, I’d give them the
option and use a well-known phone video call app to see
what we could do together.
This method is far more difficult. While most people
have a smartphone these days, not everyone has this
app installed. So that’s the first hurdle. Once they
download and install it, we then do a test call. It
works pretty well, even on slower connections.
The video quality is good enough; with communications sorted, we can get down to basics.
It could be as simple as rebooting the machine – many
people don’t know that holding the power button down
resets it. If that doesn’t work, we can look at the BIOS, Windows startup menus and trapping stop codes/blue screens
that often flash so quickly on modern machines nobody is
even aware they are there. That can tell me a lot.
How this process goes tells me a lot about the person at
the other end, and whether I have to suggest getting someone else in physically.
Recently, I was chatting with a client who had relocated
to northern Spain and was having trouble with their laptop. It was too hot to touch and had slowed right down, so
of course my immediate question was: are they using it on
their lap or a duvet or similar that could be blocking the
air intakes on the bottom? I was told that it was sitting on
a timber table and running from the mains power supply.
There are only two reasons it could be that hot: the CPU
fan isn’t running, or the airways are blocked inside. Either
way, it was going to have to come apart. This was not going
to be a problem, as I knew this person was handy with
a screwdriver and could pull it apart. The problem was
that they hadn’t attempted a challenge like this on a new,
aluminium-bodied, slimline device.
Half of my task here was going to be giving them the confidence to do the job. I found a strip-down video on YouTube
for this model and sent them step-by-step instructions on
where the screws were, including a couple hidden under
bumper feet. The biggest challenge was for them to crack
the clips holding it together.
As is typical of me, I have a dozen different spudgers to
do this with. He used his fingernails at my suggestion and
eventually cracked the back off. He’ll need a manicure, but
otherwise, all was well.
As I thought, the fan was choked, as I could see as he
played the phone camera over the innards. He had no compressor, so it was a vacuum cleaner to the rescue. It sucks
(har!), but needs must. I advised him to keep holding onto
the nozzle at the end to ground it as much as possible, and
avoid getting near the motherboard itself, a challenge given
the tight confines of a laptop.
Still, he managed to get rid of most of the dust and lint
that always builds up in those ducts and heatsink vents.
Once done, he just reassembled it and fired it up, and all
was well. No fan thrashing, no heat buildup. So, a good fix.
But how does one charge? I didn’t. They did all the work.
I just stood by, advising via the internet. It is not easily
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chargeable anyway, even without the logistics of the international payment systems.
Another interesting fix happened recently with a friend
of my wife. This friend lives in the USA and is currently
enduring a bathroom renovation and all that entails. If
you’ve ever done any renovation work, you know it takes
three times as long and costs twice as much as we budget
for, not to mention the mess.
I heard they had allowed one week for the reno; I thought
that was a very optimistic timeframe. From personal experience, just clearing the old stuff off the wall, the tub, loo
and shower out was going to take longer than that, even if
all you used was a sledgehammer!
Anyway, while the subbies were moving around, they
somehow damaged an electric ‘Roman’ style blind. Usually, these come with a cord of some kind with which to
raise and lower it. Like an old blind that people of a certain age will remember, you pull it down by the bottom
and is held in place until you give it a little more, then it
rolls up again.
These blinds have no springs to wear out; the cord winds
them up and down. Anyway, this was a custom-made blind
that spanned a set of doors, so it was quite large, and it
was controlled by a motor at one end. This was powered
by batteries and a controller that replaced the cord. Somehow, someone had cut through it, leaving the controller/
battery holder on the floor. Tradies!
So, another WhatsApp call then. I could see the problem; it was obvious, really. But this should be a simple
fix. The difficulty was that this woman didn’t even know
how to hold a screwdriver. The male of the house was no
help either, so it was down to me to guide her in fixing
the problem.
I told her she would need an inline connector and found
and sent a link to one that should do the job. I also included
a link to a small pack of heatshrink tubing. It could all be
delivered within 24 hours (which is still amazing to us
here), so we prepped the rest in the meantime.
Luckily, the wires were coded as to positive and negative,
as many cables are, with a black stripe down one side. I got
her to strip the wires; without a stripper, or even a Stanley
knife, we had to improvise. A sharp paring knife was used,
and she was very careful (almost too careful) not to hit the
wiring inside the insulation. But she got the plastic clear
and twisted the ends.
The other bits arrived the next day, and she cut the heatshrink tubing to size and slipped a big piece over the whole
lot, then she used the twin inline connector to reconnect
that battery pack. She’d found a small jeweller’s-type screwdriver and managed to connect everything up. She tested
the control, and the blind operated as expected.
I got her to put the heatshrink over the whole connector, and she used a BBQ lighter to carefully shrink it down.
She was chuffed, and it was a good fix. Job remotely done!
Transistor-assisted ignition unit repair
In the last years of high school, an adult friend bought
me a copy of Electronics Australia. This got me interested
in electronics, and I continued to buy EA magazines while
at school and after leaving. I built several of the projects,
sometimes buying kits and sometimes sourcing the parts
myself.
A few years after finishing school in 1970, I got my first
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car, a 1962 EK Holden station wagon. I had to rebuild it as
it was missing many parts, including the engine and the
entire front end. Through the late 1970s, 1980s and early
1990s, I had several 1960s Holdens.
In the December 1979 issue of EA, there was a transistor-
assisted ignition unit featured. After reading the article, I
decided to build one for my car, which had the standard
Kettering ignition system with points, condenser and coil.
The article promised better performance and better fuel
economy.
I don’t remember if I sourced the parts or bought a kit
from one of the multitude of kit suppliers back in the day;
possibly the latter. After installing the unit, I notice an
improvement in performance, with the engine running
smoothly and increased torque at lower engine RPM.
The car went well for quite some time, but then suddenly stopped for no apparent reason. I did some troubleshooting and determined that the transistor-assisted ignition unit had failed, which was a big disappointment, as
it had been going well up until then.
A quick rewire back to the standard Kettering ignition
and I was on my way again. I had installed the transistor
assisted unit in such a way that in case of a failure, I could
easily swap back to the original ignition system.
Later, at home, I took the unit out of the car and inspected
it. I could see straight away that the three 2.7W 1W resistors
had overheated and burnt part of the circuit board, destroying the tracks and causing an open circuit.
I decided that the three parallel 2.7W 1W resistors were
under-rated for the application, so I replaced them with
two 1.8W 5W resistors that I had on hand, spacing the
resistors off the board. Because the PCB tracks no longer
existed, I used the leads from the resistors to make new
“tracks”. I reinstalled the unit and I had no more problems
with it after that.
I still have it, but our current cars have either fuel injection or electronic ignition with a carburettor, which has
made this unit, which was excellent for its time, redundant.
Bruce Pierson, Dundathu, Qld.
Sony ICF7600D receiver repair
I had a Sony ICF7600D radio receiver for many years,
which I purchased on Norfolk Island when travelling with
the RAAF in the 1970s. It was a beautiful radio, made in
Japan, with synthesised tuning, an LCD readout and a separately powered clock. The bands it covered were LW, MW,
SW to 30MHz, plus the extended VHF FM band, and it had
SSB demodulation support.
It had two dedicated AA cells for the clock and four for
the radio, which could also be powered from a mains power
supply. I relied on this radio as a secondary alarm clock
during my time as a regional airline pilot, as I could never
be late; therefore, I relied on the separate cells.
After leaving the industry, I used the radio less, and it
languished in a drawer. I forgot to remove the cells, and
they inevitably leaked, so I cleaned the compartments and
contacts and all was well.
Many years later, I decided to get rid of things that I had
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← The circuit for a transistor ignition unit from the December 1979 issue of Electronics Australia, which Bruce built to put
into a 1962 Holden station wagon.
A simple self-oscillating white LED driver to replace a fluorescent lamp. When Q1 switches on, it shorts out the bottom
end of L2. When it switches off, the voltage at that point flies up above the 1.5V supply to power the two white LEDs.
not used in a while, including the radio. I plugged it in
to test it, but nothing happened; it was completely dead.
Trying fresh cells instead of the AC adaptor did nothing.
On opening the case, evidence of the previous leaking
cells was visible near the compartment and the connecting wires appeared corroded, so I cleaned everything and
replaced the wires. The radio still refused to work. I was
able to download a schematic diagram, but my board looked
slightly different.
I started tracing the 6V from the cells and it was apparent on one side of a wire with a ferrite bead, but not on the
other. Assuming a dry joint, I resoldered the wire. As I did,
I noticed that the wire moved within the bead.
Using tweezers, I pulled half of the wire out and, on close
inspection, it was corroded inside the bead, likely due to
the aforementioned cell leakage. A new piece of copper
wire simply brought the radio to life.
Rowan Wigmore, Hadspen, Tas.
I soldered the toroid winding and a 2N5551 NPN transistor with a 1kW base resistor onto a small piece of matrix
board, and connected two white LEDs in series between
the collector and emitter of the transistor.
The clock has two small perimeter slots on its face at
the 11 o’clock and five o’clock positions that are relatively
transparent. I hot glued LEDs at these positions with the
lens pointing inwards. When the backlight switch was operated, the LEDs lit up, and the hands could be easily seen.
While the backlight is no longer spread evenly over the
whole of the clock face, the LEDs provide sufficient illumination to easily check the time during darkness.
SC
Phillip Webb, Hope Valley, SA.
Seiko Bedside Clock backlight repair
In the early 1990s, I received a Seiko bedside alarm clock
in recognition of 20 years’ service with my then employer.
This clock has performed perfectly in timekeeping, but its
fluorescent backlight gradually dimmed over time, then
stopped functioning altogether.
I finally got around to opening the case, and discovered
that at some point in time, the 1.5V dry cell battery had
leaked all over the small circuit board that drives the fluorescent backlight. I cleaned up the board as best I could,
but could not coax the backlight into life.
I immediately thought of replacing the backlight with
white LEDs, but realised they needed about 3V to get them to
light. Years ago, I had played around with the “Joule Thief”
circuit that was easily able to light LEDs from a 1.5V cell.
Looking through my boxes of parts, I found a compact
fluorescent lamp (CFL) driver board with a small toroid
that would be perfect for making a Joule Thief transformer.
I stripped the old winding out and wound 12 turns bifilar.
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