Silicon ChipA PC To Die For; Pt.2 - You Can Build It Yourself - July 2001 SILICON CHIP
  1. Outer Front Cover
  2. Contents
  3. Publisher's Letter: The Electric Wiring Debate - have YOU sent in your "Statement of Will"!?
  4. Feature: Statement of Will: Reform of Electrical Legislation
  5. Feature: Digital Amplifiers Are Here! by Jim Rowe
  6. Feature: A PC To Die For; Pt.2 - You Can Build It Yourself by Grreg Swain
  7. Project: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor by John Clarke
  8. Project: Do Not Disturb Telephone Timer by John Clarke
  9. Order Form
  10. Project: Pic-Toc - A Simple Digital Alarm Clock by Michael Moore
  11. Project: A Fast Universal Battery Charger; Pt.2 by John Clarke
  12. Review: Tektronik TDS3014 Colour Oscilloscope by Leo Simpson
  13. Review: PrismSound dScope Audio Test System by Leo Simpson
  14. Product Showcase
  15. Vintage Radio: How to repair Bakelite cabinets by Rodney Champness
  16. Back Issues
  17. Notes & Errata
  18. Book Store
  19. Market Centre

This is only a preview of the July 2001 issue of Silicon Chip.

You can view 31 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments.

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Articles in this series:
  • A PC To Die For - And You Can Build It For Yourself (June 2001)
  • A PC To Die For - And You Can Build It For Yourself (June 2001)
  • A PC To Die For; Pt.2 - You Can Build It Yourself (July 2001)
  • A PC To Die For; Pt.2 - You Can Build It Yourself (July 2001)
  • A PC To Die For; Pt.3 - You Can Build It Yourself (August 2001)
  • A PC To Die For; Pt.3 - You Can Build It Yourself (August 2001)
Items relevant to "The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor":
  • PIC16F84(A)-04/P programmed for the HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor [HEART.HEX] (Programmed Microcontroller, AUD $10.00)
  • PIC16F84 firmware and source code for the HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor [HEART.HEX] (Software, Free)
  • HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor PCB patterns (PDF download) [04107011/2] (Free)
  • Panel artwork for the HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor (PDF download) (Free)
Items relevant to "Do Not Disturb Telephone Timer":
  • Do Not Disturb Telephone Timer (PDF download) [12107011] (PCB Pattern, Free)
  • Panel artwork for the Do Not Disturb Telephone Timer (PDF download) (Free)
Items relevant to "Pic-Toc - A Simple Digital Alarm Clock":
  • PIC16F84(A)-04/P programmed for the Pic-Toc Simple Digital Alarm Clock [alexcloc.hex] (Programmed Microcontroller, AUD $10.00)
  • PIC16F84 firmware and source code for the Pic-Toc Simple Digital Alarm Clock [alexcloc.hex] (Software, Free)
  • Pic-Toc Simple Digital Alarm Clock PCB pattern (PDF download) [04207011] (Free)
Items relevant to "A Fast Universal Battery Charger; Pt.2":
  • ETD29 transformer components (AUD $15.00)
  • Wiring diagram for the Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger II (Software, Free)
  • Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger II PCB patterns (PDF download) [14106011, 14302982] (Free)
  • Panel artwork for the Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger II (PDF download) (Free)
Articles in this series:
  • A Fast Universal Battery Charger (June 2001)
  • A Fast Universal Battery Charger (June 2001)
  • A Fast Universal Battery Charger; Pt.2 (July 2001)
  • A Fast Universal Battery Charger; Pt.2 (July 2001)

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COMPUTERS: Do-it-yourself & learn A PC TO DIE FOR Part 2: installing the operating system & squashing the bugs By GREG SWAIN Last month, we showed you how to build a great PC based on a 1GHz Athlon CPU and an Asus A7V133 motherboard. This month, we’re going to show you how to partition and format the hard drive and install Windows Me (WinMe) as the operating system. 14  Silicon Chip terfere with the CPU fan. If this stalls, you’ll get a distinct burning money smell as the CPU “fries”. Switching on I NSTALLING THE OPERATING system on a new computer is usual­ly quite straightforward – a piece of cake, in fact. If you haven’t been through the process before, here’s your chance to learn. We’re going to describe the installation of Windows Me but the procedure is pretty much the same for other operating systems. Basically, it involves a 5-step process: (1) Tweak a few motherboard BIOS settings; (2) Partition and format the hard disk drive; (3) Install the operating system; (4) Install specialised device drivers, as necessary (eg, for graphics and sound cards); and (5) Connect to the Internet and down­ load any critical updates for the operating system. OK, we’re about to turn the computer on for the first time but before doing so, it’s a good idea to remove the sound card. Yes, we know that we instructed you to install this card last month but experience has shown that it’s best to install the operating system first, then add the sound card later. The same applies to any other devices. Now take a good look at the system and check that every­thing is correct. In particular, make sure that all the drive cables and power connectors are plugged in and that nothing can in- Now for the smoke test – hook up the mains power leads and switch on. If everything is OK, the system will go though its Power-On Self Test (POST) routine. First, it should show the type of video card used (at the top of the screen), along with the amount of video RAM (32MB for the board specified). It should then correctly identify the motherboard BIOS version and the processor before going through the memory test procedure. At this stage, you should press “DEL” to get into the BIOS Setup Utility. This will take you directly to the Main menu, as shown in Fig.1. What we’re going to do now is change a few of the BIOS settings so that everything is identified and works correctly. The BIOS Setup Utility is easy to navigate – just use the arrow keys to jump from one setting to the next (and from one Menu screen to the next) and press <Enter> to bring up a sub-menu when you want to change a setting. The -/+ keys are then used to change the setting, after which you hit the <Esc> key to take you back to the previous menu. It’s hardly the stuff of rocket sci- ence and you’ll soon become adept at finding your way around, even if you’ve never ventured into a BIOS setup screen before. Anyway back to the main chase. Begin by setting the system time and date to the correct values, then check that the floppy disk drive (ie, Legacy Diskette A) has been correctly identified. This done, you have to “tell” the system what drives are hanging off the primary and secondary IDE ports. Now this bit is important – these two IDE ports have nothing to do with the two Ultra ATA100 IDE ports that are also on the motherboard. In fact, the Ultra ATA100 ports are not covered by the Award BIOS – in­stead, they have a separate BIOS chip on the motherboard and are detected later during the boot process. In our machine, the only item to be covered here is the DVD-ROM drive which is connected as a master to the primary IDE port. As a result, we set the Primary Master drive type to “Auto” (for auto-detect) and this show­ed up as “ATAPI DVD-ROM 16X Maxim” after we hit the <Esc> key to take us back to the Main menu. If you have any other drives hanging off the IDE ports, these can be set to “Auto” (for auto-detect) as well. Alterna­ tively, you can choose the Fig.1: this is the main BIOS setup screen. You set the system time and date here and adjust the settings for the primary and secondary IDE ports. In our case, the DVD-ROM drive was on the “Primary Master” IDE port – see text. July 2001  15 cannot change them – at least not when the “Operating Frequency Setting” is set to “Standard”. The “DRAM Frequency” setting defaults to 100MHz to ensure system stability. However, provided that you’ve used 133MHz SDRAM, you can bump this setting up to match (ie, to 133MHz) to squeeze a bit more performance. Overclocking Fig.2: the Advanced menu shows the settings for the CPU clock multiplier and bus frequency. In this case, we are using a 1GHz processor and the settings are 10.0 and 100MHz respectively (10 x 100MHz = 1GHz). Because we are using PC133 SDRAM, the DRAM frequency has been bumped up to 133MHz. For those interested in overclocking, changing the “Operat­ing Frequency Setting” to “User Define” lets you tweak both the CPU clock multiplier and frequency settings. You can manually set the multiplier anywhere in the range from 5.0x to 12.5x, while the CPU frequency can be tweaked in 1MHz steps over the range from 100MHz to 166MHz (note: this was incorrectly stated as 133MHz last month). Bus frequency settings of 90MHz and 95MHz are also available. Our advice here is simple – DON’T DO IT! If you want to play around with overclocking, at least wait until the operating system is installed and everything is working correctly. Even then, we don’t recommend over­ clocking unless you know exactly what you are doing. Actually, we think that the performance gains to be had from overclocking are so small as to not warrant the in­creased risk of system instability and CPU damage. The same goes for the “CPU Vcore Setting” – leave it on the default Auto setting unless you know what you are doing. Most other settings here can be left on the defaults. You can refer to the motherboard manual for more information on these. Boot sequence Fig.3: this is the Boot setup menu. Move the CD-ROM to the top of the list if you have an OEM or full retail version of the operating system. The floppy drive should come first if you are installing an upgrade version. drive “type” if devices other than hard disk drives are involved; eg, CD-ROM, ZIP-100, etc. What about the Quantum Fireball hard disk drive used in our machine? Well, that’s connected to the primary Ultra ATA100 IDE port and is automatically detected during boot-up, so we don’t have to enter any special settings. Next, flick across to the Advanced menu (just press the left arrow key) 16  Silicon Chip and check the settings shown in Fig.2. Assuming that you configured the Asus motherboard in JumperFree mode as described last month, these settings should all be automatically identified and should be correct. In particular, for a 1GHz CPU the “CPU Clock Multiplier” will be set to 10.0x, while the “CPU Frequency” will be 100MHz – ie, 10 x 100MHz = 1GHz. Actually, these two settings will be “greyed out”, which means that you OK, now let’s flick across to the Boot menu and sort out the boot sequence (Fig.3). This determines which drive the system boots from and your choice will depend on whether you’re installing a full retail version or an upgrade version of the operating sys­tem. If you have a full retail (or an OEM) version, you can boot directly off the CD-ROM. The system will then pretty much au­ tomatically partition and format the hard disk for you, prior to installing the operating system. Conversely, if you are installing an upgrade version, you have to boot from a Windows Me (or Windows 98) startup floppy. You then have to manually partition and format the hard drive yourself. After that, you need to reboot from the startup floppy to load the necessary drivers for the CD-ROM drive, so that the operating system can be installed. It all boils down to this – if you have a full retail or OEM version of the operating system, place the DVD-ROM drive at the top of the boot order. Alternatively, if you are using an upgrade version, place the floppy disk drive (Legacy Floppy) at the top. While you’re at this menu, set the Plug & Play O/S to “yes” (assuming you’re using Windows 98/Me/2000) and disable the boot virus detection feature. The setup procedure is going to write to the boot sector of the drive when installing the operating sys­tem, so we don’t want any false alarms here (you can re-enable the virus protection when setup is complete). Once that’s done, flick to the Exit menu, save your changes and exit from the BIOS Setup Utility. Fixing Up The Video Driver Fig.4: this is the display that greeted us the first time Windows Me booted. This occurred because WinMe installed a generic video driver running at 640 x 480 and 16 colours. Fig.5 (left): the System Properties dialog box confirms the type of video card driver installed. It also shows a problem with the “PCI Mass Storage Controller”. Operating system versions Before going further, let’s clear up a misconception that many people have about “full” and “upgrade” versions of an oper­ating system. An upgrade version is in no way “inferior” to a full version. The main difference between them is that you cannot boot from an upgrade CD-ROM and it doesn’t include the partition­ing and formatting tools included in the full version. An upgrade version also performs a “compliance” check during installation, to confirm that you already have an earlier version of Windows. Naturally, if you are “clean installing” an upgrade version onto a new hard disk, there will be no evidence of the previous operating system. The way around this is to “show” the system the CD-ROM for the earlier version when prompt­ed to do so during the compliance check routine (see panel), after which the installation will proceed normally. Apart from that, an upgrade version is identical to a full version and in­ stalls exactly the same system onto the hard disk. Partitioning and formatting We’ll assume here that you have an OEM or full retail ver­sion of Windows Fig.6 (below): the new video driver is a snack to install – just auto-run the driver CD & click Install Driver. Me. Begin by inserting the WinMe CD-ROM in the drive, then restart the machine and choose “Boot from CDROM” and “Start Windows Me Setup from CD-ROM” from the resulting menus. The setup procedure will now automatically partition and format the disk drive. Be sure to choose “enable large disk support” when prompt­ed. This installs the FAT32 file system which is necessary for the operating system to recognise large disk partitions. By contrast, the older FAT16 file system limited partition sizes to 2.1GB and that’s hardly enough these days. A FAT32 file system also reduces cluster size (down from 32KB to 4KB) and that means less disk wastage. Installing Windows After formatting, the system will automatically reboot and run Scandisk before going to the Windows Me Setup menu to install the operating system. This basically involves a 5-step process, as follows: (1) Preparing to run Windows Setup; (2) Collecting information about the computer; July 2001  17 The Gentle Art Of Hard Disk Partitioning The most common method of partitioning a hard disk drive is to create one large “Primary DOS Partition” which occupies all the disk space. However, many people prefer to “split” their hard disk drive into two partitions, so that it looks like two (or more) individual drives (eg, C: and D:). Why would you want to do this? Well, there are several reasons. First, it allows you to keep your work files completely separate from program and system files. This makes accidental deletion of vital program and system files far less likely, makes it much easier to do routine data backups and allows for faster defragging of the work “disk”. Second, splitting a hard disk drive into multiple parti­tions is the way to go if you want to set up a dual-boot or triple-boot operating system. For example, you might want a dual-boot system that lets you to choose between Windows Me and Wind­ows NT, or between Windows Me and Linux. By far the best way to set this up is to install each operating system into its own partition. Basically, you can split a hard disk drive into just two partitions: (1) a Primary DOS Partition; and (2) an Extended DOS Partition. The primary partition becomes the C: drive but you can create as many logical drives in the extended partition as you wish. Fig.7: the fdisk utility is menu driven, so you’ll have no trouble finding your way around. You can either create one primary DOS partition, or split the disk into two separate partitions – primary and extended. (3) Copying Windows files to the computer; (4) Restarting the computer; and (5) Setting up hardware and finalising settings. It might look a tad intimidating but it’s really all bounc­ing ball stuff that’s easy even for a novice to follow. Most of the procedure is automatic and you just have to fill in a few details and make a few choices along the way. In particular, you have to fill in the “Product Key” (found on the back of the CD-ROM case) and choose the type of system you want installed when you get to the “Setup Options” menu – either Typical, Portable, Compact or Custom. Take my tip and go for the Custom setup. This lets you add components that are not installed by 18  Silicon Chip If you install an OEM (or full) version of WinMe on a new hard disk, the setup routine will automatically create a single “Primary DOS Partition” on the hard disk. So how do you create multiple partitions? The answer is that you have to manually create the parti­tions using the fdisk utility (this is included on the CD-ROM). To do this, you boot from the CD-ROM as before but this time you select “Start Computer With CDROM Support” from the menu (in­stead of “Start Windows Me Setup from CD-ROM”). This boots the computer to a DOS prompt and creates a “RAM disk” with the system tools in it. Typing fdisk initially brings up a Fig.8: if you answer “Y” here, fdisk creates one primary DOS partition that occupies all the available space. Answering “N” lets you specify the size of the primary partition and then create an extended partition. default and delete space-consuming features that you don’t want. My advice is to leave out as much clutter as possible. This includes unnecessary stuff such as Destop Themes wallpaper, sounds, fancy mouse pointers and other features. After all, why slow down a PC by loading wallpaper or other fancy background themes? Always keep your desktop clean and simple – you’ll get better performance if you do. For the same reason, you should also later resist the temptation to have lots of programs automatically start up at boot time. Everything you load runs in the background and hogs system resources, so keep as much stuff out of the Startup folder as possible. Other stuff that can usually go are the Accessibility items and the Online Services. You can also deselect “Disk Compression” (found under System Tools) if you don’t intend running compressed disks. While you’re here, it’s usually not a bad idea to select the following items: Character Map, Clipboard Viewer, Net Watcher (for monitoring network connections if you have a network); System Monitor and System Resource Meter. A lot of the items under “Communications” can also be dese­lected but be sure to select “Dial-Up Networking” if you intend connecting to the Internet. You should also select “Internet Connection Sharing” if you intend using the machine to share an Internet connection with other machines on a network. dialog box that asks whether you wish to enable large disk support (ie, the FAT32 file system). It’s necessary to answer “Y” (yes) here if you want the operating system to “see” partitions greater than 2.1GB. After that, the screen shown in Fig.7 appears and you simply follow the menus to partition the drive. Assuming an unpartitioned drive, you first select option 1 to create a DOS partition and then option 1 again to create a primary DOS partition. If you allocate all of the disk space to the primary partition, then that’s the end of the matter and you finish up with just one logical drive (ie, C:). Alternatively, if you allocate only part of the space to the primary partition, you can then create an extended partition to cover all or some of the remaining disk space. After that, you can create one or more logical drives in the extended partition. These logical drives automatically take on the next drive letters in the sequence (ie, D:, E:, etc). Typically, you might want to split a 20GB hard drive so that it has a 6GB primary partition and a 14GB extended partition with a single logical drive. This means that your machine would appear to have two hard disk drives – a 6GB C: drive and a 14GB D: drive. Of course, you can make the partitions any size you want. By the way, you have to set the C: partition as the “Active” partition. This designates which partition con­tains the boot sector – ie, it determines where the boot files are stored. Once the partitions have been Fig.9: this screen shows the partition information for a 1.6GB drive that’s between split into two partitions. The primary partition occupies 65% of the drive space, while the extended partition occupies the remainder. It’s largely a matter of personal preference as to what you keep and leave out. And, of course, you can always add wanted items and delete any unnecessary features after the operating system has been installed (this is done using the Add/Remove Programs utility in Control Panel). Along the way, you will be directed to create a Startup disk so be sure to set aside a clean floppy disk before starting the installation. You’ll also be prompted to choose a keyboard type – the US 101-key keyboard is the one to go for in Australia. At this stage, the system will begin copying files to the hard disk drive. This will probably take 20-30 minutes or more, depending on the speed of your CD-ROM drive. created, you need to format each of the logical drives in turn. You’ll find the format utili­ty (format.com) in the \WinMe folder on the CD-ROM, so you’ll need to change to this folder before running this command. For example, let’s say that you have two logical drives (C: and D:) and that your CD-ROM is at E:. First, you’ll need to change to the CD-ROM drive by typing E: <Enter> at the DOS prompt and then typing cd \WinMe to change to the \WinMe folder. Once there, you can format the C: drive by typing format c: at the prompt. When the format is complete, you can then format any remaining drives in exactly the same manner. It’s also a good idea to run the scandisk utility on each of the drives, to verify the drive integrity. Fig.10: if you make a mistake or change your mind, it’s just a matter of deleted the existing partition(s) and starting again. Warning: all data on a hard disk drive is lost when you alter partitions using fdisk. During this process, the Setup Wizard automatically re­ s tarts the computer several times and there’s a great deal of disk activity as the system identifies the hardware configuration and copies the relevant files across. Towards the end, you will be prompt­ ed for a password. If you don’t want a password, leave the password field blank. Final setup Once the installation is complete, the system should au­tomatically boot into Windows but there may be a few problems to solve. In our case, the system booted with a grey desktop as shown in Fig.4 – nothing like the default dark-blue desktop normally expected with WinMe. What’s happened here is that the system has installed a generic driver for the video card. That’s easily checked out in the Device Manager and this will also highlight any other prob­lems that may be lurking. In fact, once the system is running, the Device Manager should be your first port of call. You can start it by double-clicking the System icon in Control Panel and then clicking the Device Manager tab on the resulting System Properties dialog box. This lists all the items that are currently installed on your system and allows you to check that all devices are working cor­rectly. A yellow exclamation mark or a red cross next to any item indicates a problem. July 2001  19 Installing The Driver For The Promise Ultra ATA100 Controller Fig.12: the wizard automatically searches the CD-ROM for the best driver or you can specify the path to the driver yourself. Fig.11: the VIA 4-In-1 drivers and the Promise Ultra 100 IDE Controller driver are installed from the CD-ROM supplied with the motherboard. The CD-ROM auto-starts when placed in the drive. In our case, the Device Manager revealed two problems – see Fig.5. First, it showed that a “Standard PCI Graphics Adapter (VGA)” had been installed for the video card (something that we already expected). Second, it showed that we needed to install a driver for something called a “PCI Mass Storage Controller”. These two problems were easily solved. First, the video driver – this is supplied on a CD-ROM which auto­ starts to bring up the dialog box shown in Fig.6. Clicking the “Install Driver” button then did the trick. This automatically installed the correct driver, after which the machine booted to a nice blue desktop. The “PCI Mass Storage Controller” that WinMe found during setup is actually the Promise Ultra ATA100 IDE controller. Get­ting this working correctly is just a matter of installing the drivers from the CD-ROM supplied with the motherboard. This CD autostarts to the dialog box shown in Fig.11. In­stall the “Via 4-in-1 Drivers” update first, then install the driver for the Promise Ultra ATA100 controller. Actually, click­ing the but20  Silicon Chip Fig.13: this list shows the drivers found by the automatic search routine. Choose the one that matches the installed operating system. ton here doesn’t automatically install the driver. Instead, it brings up a small text file which instructs you how to do this manually. The procedure is straightforward – select the “PCI Mass Storage Controller” entry in Device Manager, click the Properties button and select the Driver tab to update the driver. You can then either do an automatic search for the driver or manually specify the driver’s location (Fig.12). An automatic search eventually brings up the dialog box shown in Fig.13 and it’s then just a matter of selecting the driver that matches the operating system (WinMe in this case). Manually specifying the location of the driver is quicker though – you just browse to the folder that has the driver. In our case, the required driver is in D:\Promise\ATA100\WINME (D: is the drive letter for the CD-ROM drive). Once we’d done all that, the driver entries for the video card and the Promise Ultra ATA100 Controller appeared as shown in Fig.14. Note that the Promise driver is listed under SCSI con­trollers, even though it’s not a true SCSI device. This is per­fectly normal. Fig.14 also shows the driver entries that appeared after we installed the sound card. Fig.14: this is what the System properties dialog box looks like after the correct drivers have been installed for the video card and the Promise Ultra 100 IDE Controller. Installing other drivers If any other devices are causing problems, you can update the driver in exactly the same manner. Usually, it’s just a matter of clicking the Update Driver button in Device Manager and then letting the system automatically search for a driver on the CD-ROM or floppy disk supplied with the device. If it finds more than one driver, it’s then simply a matter of choosing the cor­rect one for your operating system from the list. Alternatively, you can manually specify the location of the driver by browsing to the correct folder on the CD-ROM or floppy disk yourself. Be sure to check out any readme files on the driver disk for installation instructions. Another technique for dealing with problem devices (ie, those with yellow exclamation marks or red crosses beside them) is to remove them from the Device Manager and reboot. The system will then rediscover the new device as it boots and prompt you for the driver disk. Again, you can do an automatic search for the driver or specify the location yourself. Setting the display resolution Once you have the correct driver installed for the graph­ics card, you’ll want to set the display resolution to something better than the 640 x 480 default. To do this, right-click on the desktop and choose Proper­ties to bring up the Display Properties dialog box Adjusting The Display Properties Fig.15: this screen grab shows the default display settings that were installed by Windows Me. It installed a generic video driver at 640 x 480 pixels and just 16 colours. Fig.16: once the correct video driver has been installed, you can adjust the display settings as shown here. Clicking the advanced button gives you lots of other settings to play with. (Fig.15). Now click the Settings tab and drag the slider to the right to increase the display resolution. A resolution of 1152 x 864 is about right for a 17-inch monitor but you can vary this to suit yourself – see Fig.16. While you’re here, you will also want to change the number of displayed colours from the drop-down list to the left of the slider. Depending on your graphics card, choose either “High Color (16-bit)” or “True Color (32-bit)”, then click the Apply button. Windows will then resize the desktop for 15-seconds, after which you can Clean Installing The Windows Me Upgrade Version If you are clean installing an upgrade version of WinMe onto a hard disk, you won’t be able to boot from the CD-ROM. This means that you’ll need a WinMe or Win98 startup floppy in order to start your system. These startup floppies also include the necessary utilities to allow you to partition and format the disk drive, and include drivers for CD-ROM support. If you’re upgrading from an old computer, you’ll need to make a startup floppy before trashing the system. It’s easy enough to do – just insert a floppy disk in the drive, open “Add/Remove Programs” in Control Panel, click the Startup Disk tab and then click the Create Disk button. If you’ve already trashed the system, you’ll have to beg, borrow or steal a startup disk from somewhere. But be careful – you don’t want your new machine to start life with a virus on board. Note that you will have to change the system BIOS, so that the floppy disk drive is first in the boot order. If you don’t do that, the system will try to boot from one of the other drives first and you’ll get a “Non-system disk” error message. When you boot from the startup disk, a menu appears giving you the option to start the computer with or without CDROM support. The startup floppy first loads the CD-ROM driver (if this option is selected), then loads a 2MB RAM drive. This RAM drive includes format.com plus several diagnostic tools. Note that the RAM drive will push your CD-ROM drive back one letter. This means that if your CD-ROM is usually drive D:, it will now become drive E:. In any case, an on-screen message tells you what the drive letters are, so you don’t have to figure it out. After that, you can partition and format the drive(s) in the usual manner. You then boot the machine with CD-ROM support, switch to the CD-ROM drive and type Setup at the command prompt to run the Windows Me installation wizard. During installation, the system will perform a “compliance” check to make sure that you’re entitled to use the lower-cost product. Typically, it does this by checking the hard disk drive for an earlier version of the operating system but you can also install an upgrade version onto a freshly formatted drive. How? – easy; just insert the CD-ROM for your earlier version when prompted to do so. If you are upgrading from Win98 to WinMe, for example, all you have to do is “show” the system your Win98 CD-ROM for com­pliance checking. In fact, you can even show a Win98 upgrade CD-ROM (eg, if you’ve previously used this to upgrade from Win95) and the system will be happy with this. Once compliance checking is complete, you re-insert the upgrade CD-ROM and the installation proceeds as normal. July 2001  21 Fig.17: the Folder Options dialog lets you set Windows up to satisfy your personal preferences. Fig.18: clicking the “View” tab gives you other options to choose from. Choose the options that suit you best. choose to either accept or discard the new settings. Clicking the Advanced button will allow you to change the monitor driver and to adjust other parameters specific to the graphics card. In our case, the Philips 107S monitor (which is Plug ’n Play) was correctly identified and its driver installed during the WinMe setup, so we didn’t have to bother with this. If you have a different monitor, then it may be necessary to install the driver yourself from the supplied CD. Windows Me directly supports DVD-ROM drives, so there is no need to install additional drivers for this device. You might, however, want to install the software that’s supplied with the DVD-ROM drive (this will install a DVD player (Fig.23). Installing the sound card Now let’s get that sound card going. Power off, plug the card into a vacant PCI slot (don’t forget to connect the audio cable from the DVD-ROM drive) and switch on. The system will find the new hardware as it boots and prompt you to install the driver. It’s then just a matter of placing the Sound Blaster Live CD-ROM in the drive, and specifying the location for the driver on the CD-ROM by browsing to D:\ AUDIO\ENGLISH\WIN9XDRV. Alternatively, you can allow the Fig.19: clicking the “Performance” tab in the System properties dialog box should show the message “Your system is configured for optimal performance”. system to automatically search for the driver and then select the correct driver from the resulting list. The system will then complete the reboot, after which your sound card should be fully functioning. By the way, there are lots of other goodies on the Sound Blaster CD-ROM for you to install. Just re-insert the CDROM to auto-run the install dialog box and go from there. You’ll probably also want to install Acrobat Reader so that you can read the Sound Blaster manual that’s on the CD-ROM. Other hardware items (eg, ZIP drives, CD-ROM burners, network cards, etc), can now be added to your new PC. It’s always best to install these Asus Probe: Watching Over Your System’s Health Fig.20: the Asus Probe summary screen let's you check the system “health” at a glance. 22  Silicon Chip Fig.21: this screen lets you set the alarm thresholds for the CPU and motherboard temperature. There’s lots of “goodies” with the sound card Fig.22: the SoundBlaster sound card comes with a bewildering array of software, including “Rythmania” (above), “Media Ring Talk” for Internet phone calls (top, right) and a Surround Mixer, Recorder, Play Center and Application Launcher (right). There’s lots more, as well. Fig.23: the DVD-player software installs this dedicated DVD-player utility. one at a time and get each new device working before installing the next. tab on the System Properties dialog box – see Fig.19. Personal preferences Asus Probe There are a few adjustments that you might like to make to the appearance of the desktop, to satisfy your personal preferences. For example, if you want a Windows classic desktop rather than web-enabled content, just click Tools -> Options in Explorer to bring up the Folder Options dialog box shown in Fig.17 and make your selections. It really is a matter of personal preference here. Clicking the View tab brings up the dialog box shown in Fig.18. Personally, I always like to select the “Show hidden files and folders” options and choose not to “Hide file extensions of known file types” (ie, I want to see the file extensions). You should also check that your system is configured for optimal performance by clicking the Performance It’s a good idea to install the Asus Probe utility from the motherboard CD-ROM. This handy utility runs in the background and continuously monitors the system “health”, in- cluding the CPU fan speed, the CPU and motherboard temperatures and various voltage levels. It can be set to launch automatically at system startup and could save you big bucks if there’s a simple hardware failure. That’s it – don’t forget to visit the Windows Update site when you’ve finished. You should also download and install any updated device drivers; e.g, SC for the video card.ZIP-100, etc. RAID 0 vs RAID 1: Disk Striping & Disk Mirroring As stated in Pt.1 in the June issue, the Promise controller on the Asus A7V133 motherboard supports a feature called “RAID 0”. The article then went on to describe RAID 0 as disk mirroring but this is incorrect. RAID 0 (also known as “data striping”) is actually a technique that “stripes” the data across two identical disk drives. It allows you to combine the two drives into one logical partition and splits the data evenly between them. This effectively doubles the data transfer rate because only half the data is written to each drive and the drives operate in parallel. The setup procedure is fully described in the manual. The downside is that RAID 0 offers no data protection at all. In fact, it actually increases the risk of failure because if one drive fails, all the data on the RAID array is lost. The disk mirroring technique referred to in Pt.1 is actually known as RAID 1 and is not directly supported by the Asus A7V133 motherboard. July 2001  23