Silicon ChipAdvertising Index - January 2015 SILICON CHIP
  1. Outer Front Cover
  2. Contents
  3. Publisher's Letter: Petrol power tools are anathema
  4. Feature: Interfacing To The Brain by Dr David Maddison
  5. Feature: The Micromite Mk.2 by Geoff Graham
  6. Project: Isolating High Voltage Probe for Oscilloscopes by Jim Rowe & Nicholas Vinen
  7. Project: High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars, Pt.2 by John Clarke
  8. Product Showcase
  9. Project: The Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.3 by Nicholas Vinen
  10. Beginner's Project: the PicoMiniCube by Design by Philip Tallents, article by Ross Tester
  11. Subscriptions
  12. Review: Tektronix RSA306 Real Time Spectrum Analyser by Jim Rowe
  13. Order Form
  14. Salvage It by Ken Kranz
  15. Vintage Radio: The Stromberg-Carlson 5A26 radio by Associate Professor Graham Parslow
  16. Market Centre
  17. Advertising Index
  18. Outer Back Cover

This is only a preview of the January 2015 issue of Silicon Chip.

You can view 36 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments.

For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues.

Items relevant to "The Micromite Mk.2":
  • 44-pin Micromite PCB [24108141] (AUD $5.00)
  • PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP programmed for the Micromite Mk2 plus capacitor (Programmed Microcontroller, AUD $15.00)
  • PIC32MX170F256D-50I/PT programmed for the Micromite Mk2 (44-pin) (Programmed Microcontroller, AUD $15.00)
  • CP2102-based USB/TTL serial converter with 5-pin header and 30cm jumper cable (Component, AUD $5.00)
  • Firmware (HEX) file and documents for the Micromite Mk.2 and Micromite Plus (Software, Free)
Items relevant to "Isolating High Voltage Probe for Oscilloscopes":
  • Isolated High-Voltage Probe PCB [04108141] (AUD $10.00)
  • Hard-to-get parts for the Isolated High-Voltage Probe (Component, AUD $37.50)
  • Isolated High-Voltage Probe PCB pattern (PDF download) [04108141] (Free)
  • Isolated High-Voltage Probe panel artwork (PDF download) (Free)
  • Isolated High-Voltage Probe drilling guide diagram (PDF download) (Panel Artwork, Free)
Items relevant to "High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars, Pt.2":
  • Multispark CDI PCB [05112141] (AUD $10.00)
  • ETD29 transformer components (AUD $15.00)
  • Hard-to-get parts for the Multispark CDI (Component, AUD $45.00)
  • Multispark CDI PCB pattern (PDF download) [05112141] (Free)
  • Multispark CDI panel artwork (PDF download) (Free)
Articles in this series:
  • High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars (December 2014)
  • High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars (December 2014)
  • High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars, Pt.2 (January 2015)
  • High-Energy Multi-Spark CDI For Performance Cars, Pt.2 (January 2015)
Items relevant to "The Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.3":
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier main PCB [01111141] (AUD $55.00)
  • Currawong Remote Control PCB [01111144] (AUD $5.00)
  • PIC16F88-I/P programmed for the Currawong Remote Volume Control [0111114A.HEX] (Programmed Microcontroller, AUD $15.00)
  • Front & rear panels for the Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier [01111142/3] (PCB, AUD $30.00)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier acrylic top cover (PCB, AUD $30.00)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier top cover cutting diagram (Software, Free)
  • Firmware and source code for the Currawong Remote Volume Control [0111114A.HEX] (Software, Free)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier main PCB pattern [01111141] (Free)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier panel artwork (PDF download) (Free)
Articles in this series:
  • Currawong Stereo Valve Amplifier: A Preview (October 2014)
  • Currawong Stereo Valve Amplifier: A Preview (October 2014)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.1 (November 2014)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.1 (November 2014)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.2 (December 2014)
  • Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.2 (December 2014)
  • The Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.3 (January 2015)
  • The Currawong 2 x 10W Stereo Valve Amplifier, Pt.3 (January 2015)
  • Modifying the Currawong Amplifier: Is It Worthwhile? (March 2015)
  • Modifying the Currawong Amplifier: Is It Worthwhile? (March 2015)
  • A New Transformer For The Currawong Valve Amplifier (October 2016)
  • A New Transformer For The Currawong Valve Amplifier (October 2016)
Items relevant to "Salvage It":
  • SPICE simulations for Common Mode Chokes (Software, Free)
Majestic Loudspeakers & A Suitable Amplifier I have been reading SILICON CHIP magazine and came across some kits that interested me with regards to the “man cave” that I have. I have a shed where I tinker and relax and have made some additions to it but I am looking to make some more, especially with regards to the entertainment set-up. The Majestic loudspeakers described in the June & September 2014 issues would be good in my paradise. However, I have some questions about them. I have small and large children who like to poke their fingers into everything, God bless them but they have a habit of destroying things in the process. Are there speaker grilles, corner protectors or some devices available to protect them besides placing them up high? Then there is the question of the amplifier that would drive these speakers. I found the Ultra-LD Mk3 200W Amplifier module (SILICON CHIP, July to September 2011). Would this unit do the job to drive the speakers above or is there another unit more suitable? I live away from my neighbours so noise complaints are not on my list of priorities. As well, I have a big screen TV, for the big matches, which has many HDMI ports and a digital audio output port. I would like to connect it to the amplifier. Do you have a preamp or a method to connect the audio from the TV to the amplifier? Also, I have assorted iPod, DVD & CD players that have RCA plugs and Apple connectors that I would like to interconnect into the system. Is there a method to connect these devices as well? (B. D., via email). •  We agree that the Majestic loud- Ask SILICON CHIP . . . continued from page 103 wirewound element to heat the water. You could also get replacements that just had two metal plates and if you used these with rain water you had to add a pinch of salt or they would not work. Over the years I have thought about it but cannot figure out why this should happen as there were only two wires to 104  Silicon Chip speakers would need protective grilles if you have children or pets, otherwise they will be damaged quite quickly. There are various 15inch speaker grilles available which could work. For example, Jaycar has a clip-on type, Cat. AX3598. The tweeter could potentially require protection too. It’s mounted higher up and back in the horn but it might still be possible to poke a finger in and damage it. The simplest solution in that case might be to tell them not to do that! The Ultra-LD Mk3 would be ideal for driving these speakers and there is an Altronics kit, Cat.K5125. If you don’t want to spend that much money, the smaller Tiny Tim amplifier also works well. That project was published in the October 2013, December 2013 and January 2014 issues. Our CLASSiC DAC design (February-May 2013) will convert stereo digital audio to high-quality analog signals that can then be fed to the amplifier. However you should first check if your TV has a “stereo downmix” or similar option for the digital output as this DAC can’t handle compressed audio such as Dolby Digital. It can also play music and switch between multiple digital inputs. The Ultra-LD Mk3 has three inputs but if you have more audio sources than that then you would need an external switching device. A commercial home-theatre receiver might be a good choice too. It can do all the switching and digital-to-analog conversion and you can feed its left and right channel pre-outs (assuming it has them) to a better quality stereo amplifier. the jug and the jug was insulated, being china, so there was no way for extra leakage current to flow back through the Earth. So what is the explanation as to why the Neutral terminal did not also turn brown? Maybe there is a very wise electrician out there who could explain why this occurred. (D.F., via email). •  We think you will find that the blackening of power points in those days was because people often pulled the plug straight out of the socket rather Advertising Index 4D Systems Pty Ltd........................ 9 Altronics.................................. 72-75 Element14...................................... 5 Emona Instruments........................ 3 Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC Icom Australia.............................. 11 Jaycar .............................. IFC,49-56 KCS Trade Pty Ltd........................ 37 Keith Rippon .............................. 103 KitStop............................................ 9 LD Electronics............................ 103 LEDsales.................................... 103 Microchip Technology..................... 7 Mikroelektronika......................... IBC Ocean Controls.............................. 6 Quest Electronics....................... 103 Radio, TV & Hobbies DVD............ 93 Sesame Electronics................... 103 Silicon Chip Binders................... 101 Silicon Chip Online Shop............. 83 Silicon Chip PCBs...................... 103 Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 89 Silvertone Electronics.................... 8 Trio Test & Measurement................ 4 Tronixlabs................................... 103 Wabeco Australia......................... 10 Wiltronics...................................... 59 Worldwide Elect. Components... 103 than switching off first. And if they did switch off first, the resulting arc across the switch contacts (in the Active) circuit eventually led to carbonisation around the Active terminal. Note that if the jug boiled over (a frequent occurence), there was the possibility of leakage to Earth, particularly if the jug was close to a stainless steel kitchen sink. In fact, a boiled-over jug could give a “tingle” if it was not first turned off before being unplugged. Also, as these jugs became older, the Bakelite lids could become partially conductive and again lead to a “tingle” from time to time. That was generally an indication that the jug needed a new lid or that it should be replaced SC altogether. siliconchip.com.au