This is only a preview of the January 2006 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 41 of the 120 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "Pocket TENS Unit For Pain Relief":
Items relevant to "“Little Jim” AM Radio Transmitter":
Items relevant to "Universal High-Energy Ignition System; Pt.2":
Items relevant to "Building The Ultimate Jukebox; Pt.2":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Build A MIDI Drum Kit; Pt.3":
|
SILICON CHIP
MIDI
DRUM
KIT
by JOHN CLARKE
PART 3 –
building the
sensors and stand
As mentioned last month, there are two basic pad sensor types:
those based around a piezo transducer and those based around
the optical sensing circuitry. Which one you use is up to you.
The piezo-based pads require tapping with drum sticks
or similar items in the conventional “drum” manner. The
optical pads can be tapped by hand, making them easier
to use.
We also use an optical pickup for foot-activated sensors.
This is because the system is more robust. A piezo transducer that can be attacked with a foot pedal may well be
destroyed rather quickly.
Each pad type is described in the separate sections following.
Building The Optical PC Board
Circuit details were shown in Part 1 but
are repeated here for convenience along
with the PC board overlay for the optical
sensor (there is no PC board for the piezo
sensor).
The optical sensor PC board is coded
01211053 and measures 52 x 31mm.
Once again, before assembly check the
underside for any possible shorts between
tracks or breaks in the copper.
As you did for the other boards, install
the resistors and diode (as shown), the PC
stakes and the capacitor (which is mounted
on its side to allow clearance above the
PC board). Finally, the optical sensor is
mounted directly onto the PC board, making
sure it is oriented correctly.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The Simplest Piezo Sensor
The simple piezo sensor is based
around a length of 20mm (27mm OD)
PVC water pipe. The piezo transducer
attaches to the end of the pipe with the
shielded cable
connected to the
transducer and
the other end
to an RCA plug.
To use, the pipe
is held in the hand at
the opposite end to the
piezo and the pipe is then tapped
with a stick.
Note that the two red and black wires
that are supplied connected to the piezo
transducer need to
be unsoldered and
Parts List – Piezo Sensor
1 piezo transducer
1 300mm length of 20mm PVC water
pipe (27mm OD)
1 2m length of single- cored shielded
cable
1 RCA line plug
2 No.4 self-tapping screws
Percussive (Piezo) Sensor Pad
This sensor pad needs to be mounted
onto a frame using 25mm tubing (see
separate diagram). The sensor is played
with a drumstick or similar item. Note that
the front edge is shown curved to ensure
that there is a consistent response from
the sensor when the pad is tapped around
its circumference.
Do not be tempted to use a rectangular
edge. This will give dead spots in several
positions on the pad where the sensor will
not detect a strike on the plate. In addition,
do not use metal in preference to the MDF
since this will resonate for too long after
it is struck.
The sensor pad is constructed as shown
at right. Cut out the circular section of
the MDF panel with a jigsaw and paint
the pad with gloss black paint. The piezo
replaced with the shielded wire. You
must carefully prise off the back of the
piezo case to gain access to the wiring.
transducer needs to be rewired to have the
shielded cable soldered to its piezo and brass
sections. The rear of the piezo housing can
be carefully prised off to gain access to this
wiring.
We used an epoxy resin smeared around
the edge of the back of the piezo housing
before securing with the M2.5 screws into the
MDF. This ensures a good physical contact
with the MDF plate.
The top of the MDF sensor plate can be
painted black or covered with a thin sheet
of vinyl using contact adhesive. The vinyl
can deaden the sound produced by striking
it with a stick.
Alternatively, the stick can be rubberised.
In most cases, the sound of the stick directly
onto the painted MDF will not cause any
concern.
Parts List – Piezo Pad
1 piezo transducer
1 140 x 140mm piece of 3mm
MDF
1 120mm length of 20mm
PVC water pipe (27mm OD)
2 25mm cable cleats
(Farnell NP10 pro-power
Cat 725-7399)
2 M4 x 12mm screws
4 M4 nuts
1 ¼” x 4” bolt and nut
1 6.35mm ID x 9mm OD x 22mm
long plastic spacer (electrical
lamp fitting)
2 M2.5 x 4mm long screws
Miscellaneous
Gloss black paint, vinyl (optional),
epoxy resin, contact adhesive
This upsidedown view of a
piezo sensor
pad is mainly to
show the method
of mounting
the transducer.
It also shows
the method of
mounting to the
stand via a clamp
and length of
PVC pipe (also
see diagram
below).
siliconchip.com.au
January 2006 87
Bongo Drums
The bongo drums are made using 12mm MDF and 18g (1mm)
aluminium sheeting. The MDF makes up the top and bottom dual
semi-circular sections while the aluminium sheet is wrapped
around the sides of the MDF and secured in place with 6g x 20mm
countersunk wood screws.
Cutouts in the top are blocked off using MDF timber glued on
the underside. These provide the mounting base for the optical
sensor PC board to be secured using the 4g self-tapping screws.
The MDF cut-outs and the semicircular shape can be cut using a
jig saw. Glue the timber to the underside of the top panel cutouts
and paint the timber.
Wiring the PC boards involves following the overlay diagram for
the optical pad sensor and wiring. Note that only two DC sockets
are necessary – the second PC board derives its power from the
first using hookup wire between the + and + power terminals and
the - and - terminals. The DC sockets mount on the aluminium sides
of the drums. The signal leads pass through the aluminium via a
rubber grommet. A cable tie holding the two signal leads behind
the grommet will help prevent the leads pulling out. An alternative
arrangement is to attach two RCA panel sockets to the drum and
use RCA-to-RCA leads for the signal connections.
Make up a DC socket to DC socket lead and terminate the signal
leads with‑ RCA plugs.
The pressure plate is secured to the top of the drum using 4g
screws. The screw that passes through into the optical sensor
must be exactly located so that it fits neatly into the optical slot.
The plate is bent as shown.
Adjustment
The slight upward bend allows the screw to have clearance
inside the optical slot. This screw needs to be adjusted carefully
so that there is a change in voltage at the signal output when the
plate is moved.
The completed bongo drums. In the photo below left the
drums are partially disassembled, showing the optical
sensors and plates.
The easiest way to adjust this is to firstly make up an RCA socket
to RCA plug test connector as shown below and insert this in line
between the signal output lead and the MIDI Drum Kit. Alternatively,
access the rear of the RCA socket inside the MIDI Drum Kit. Plug into
one of the RCA input sockets for the MIDI Drum Kit.
Apply power to the drum kit and also connect the DC power lead
between the drum kit’s DC output socket and one of the DC input
sockets on the bongo drums. Connect a multimeter set to read DC
volts to the test connector. The voltage reading should be either small
(< 0.1V) if the screw is too far out of the sensor gap or up to 5V is
the screw is too far into the slot.
Adjust the plate angle and screw setting so that the normal voltage is very close to 200mV. This voltage should rise to close to 5V
when the plate is pressed. Ensure the plate is free to move without
scraping the sides of the MDF and without the screw scraping the
inside of the optical sensor.
With the arrangement shown having a nut on top and on the
bottom of the plate, the screw can be turned in or out to make the
adjustment. An alternative method is to cut the screw to length so
that it does not need adjusting. If you have cut too much from the
screw, the length can be built up with some solder. This makes it
easy to file down so that the length is just right when the plate is
secured down with the screws into the MDF panel.
Finishing
We finished the drums by covering with loudspeaker carpet.
This is attached with contact adhesive. The covering is optional.
This easy-to-make jig
will allow you to adjust
the Bongo Drums (and
other optical sensors)
very easily, by connecting
to your multimeter and
adjusting the screw to
give maximum voltage
change.
88 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Bongo
Drums
Plan and elevation of the bongo drums. Top right shows how the pressure plate fixes
onto the surface of the drums, with the PC board underneath in the “well”.
Speaking of the well, here’s how to make it. This diagram is half the size of the
finished drum – so if you have an enlarging photocopier, 200% is the magic number!
siliconchip.com.au
2 PC boards coded 01211053,
52 x 31mm
2 photo-interrupters
2 1N4004 diodes
2 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
capacitors
4 470W 0.25W 1% resistors
2 panel-mount DC sockets
2 line DC plugs
8 PC stakes
1 50mm long cable tie
4 metres single core shielded
cable
2 RCA line plugs
2 135 x 245mm pieces of 12mm
MDF
2 30 x 220mm pieces of 12mm
MDF
2 120 x 707mm sheets of 18g
(1mm) aluminium
2 61 x 108mm sheets of 18g
(1mm) aluminium
2 20 x 58mm sheets of 18g
(1mm) aluminium
8 4g x 12mm self-tapping screws
12 6g x 20mm csk wood screws
1 M3 x 12mm screw
1 3mm star washer
2 M3 nuts
1 6mm ID rubber grommet
Miscellaneous
Black paint, contact adhesive,
speaker carpet (optional),
PVA glue
January 2006 89
Optical Sensor
In many ways, the optical sensor is similar
to the Bongo drums in construction. Most of
the construction for this applies to the optical
sensor. The sensor is designed to mount
onto a frame described on the next page.
When used as a foot controller it can be
placed on the floor rung of the stand.
The current design is not suitable for use
on the higher rungs of the stand. This is
because there will be too much stand
movement when the sensor is pressed.
A heavy-duty stand made from tubular steel could
be used to support several optical pad sensors.
The optical pad sensors would also need to be
held in position with steel clamps instead of
plastic ones.
In addition, use two DC sockets for the power input and output
as shown in the main optical sensor wiring. The second DC socket
allows for interconnecting power between sensors.
The 12mm MDF will require trimming back in thickness by 3mm
where the two plastic clamps attach at the rear of the pad. Use a
chisel to do this. The reduction in thickness is so that the clamp
will close up sufficiently to mount tightly onto the 25mm frame.
The MDF material for the sensor is painted using gloss black
paint before assembly. A rubber stick-on foot is placed at the front
edge of the cut-out to provide a stopper for the pressure plate.
The sensor PC board is attached using M3 screws and nuts.
You may need to use some Nylon washers to space the PC board
slightly above the 3mm MDF baseplate. Note that the pressure
plate needs the centre screw to be adjusted correctly as described
in the bongo drum section.
PIC T/C
Note
These optical pads are not ideal for hitting with a drumstick since
it sets up resonance in the aluminium plate. This causes the drum
sound to be played more than once for each strike. If you need to
use the optical pads with sticks, then the setting-up procedure where
the DC voltage is set to around 200mV needs to be changed. The
initial voltage is set to the saturation voltage of the output transistor
in the optical sensor. This is about 100mV and is observed to be the
voltage that does not change until the pressure plate is moved by
a millimetre or two. Best adjustment is found by trial and error, but
the plate needs to be set so that it needs some movement before
any voltage change is found at the sensor output.
Parts List
1 PC board coded 01211053, 52 x 31mm
1 Photo interrupter
1 1N4004 diode
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic capacitor
2 470W 1/4W 1% resistors
1 line DC plug
4 PC stakes
1 2-metre length of single core shielded cable
1 RCA line plug
1 140 x 142mm piece of 12mm MDF
1 140 x 120mm piece of 3mm MDF
1 61 x 108mm sheet of 18g (1mm) aluminium
1 20 x 58mm sheet of 18g (1mm) aluminium
2 25mm cable cleats (Farnell NP10 pro-power
Cat 725-7399)
4 M3 x 12mm screws and M3 nuts
4 4g x 12mm self tapping screws
1 M3 x 12mm screw
1 3mm star washer
2 M3 nuts
2 4” x ¼” bolts
2 ¼” nuts
4 3mm Nylon washers
2 50mm cable ties
Again reproduced half size, this diagram shows how the optical sensor
unit is constructed.
90 Silicon Chip
Miscellaneous
Black paint, PVA glue
siliconchip.com.au
Building A Playing Stand
One or two sensors alone are fine sitting on a bench, etc, (or
even the floor!) but when a number of sensors are used, some
form of frame or stand is necessary so they can mount in their
correct positions for playing.
We made up a stand using conventional hardware components.
Broomsticks were used instead of dowell because they’re usually
a lot cheaper!
The stand was glued together with builders’ adhesive for the
Tee joins and PVA glue for the MDF bracket to the 25mm rod. It
was painted in a gloss black.
Note that the design allows the top rung to be removed. This
is for easy transport of the frame on
the back seat of a car.
The broomstick pieces are cut to
length, noting that the stick is passed
right through the T-piece rather than
cutting it at this point. Each T-junction
is made stronger by making a 25mm
hole part way into the side of the
straight through broomstick.
Note that the Vinidex T-pieces
allow the broomstick to pass easily
through it. Other brands may need
drilling or filing out to allow the stick
to enter right through the piece.
The MDF right angle bracket is included to give extra support
in the forward and backward direction.
The wires for the sensors can be made tidy along the frame
using cable clips.
The percussive sensor is designed to be able to be adjusted to
any angle, making it very suited for stand mounting.
However, if using the optical sensor on the stand, it must be
mounted on the floor rung of the frame, so the front edge of the
pad rests on the floor to add extra support.
As mentioned, the stand and optical sensor pad mounting must
be of heavier construction than the one shown here
if you intend to use optical pad sensors throughout.
Parts List
6 broom sticks, 25mm in diameter
6 20mm PVC water pipe Tee pieces (Vinidex)
2 20mm PVC water pipe joiners
1 150 x 150mm x 12mm MDF sheet
4 25mm rubber pipe ends
Miscellaneous
Black gloss paint, PVA glue, builders adhesive
This is the stand we put together from bedknobs and broomsticks (OK, not too many bedknobs). It’s just one possible
arrangement for mounting the controller and various sensors, giving room for foot pedals underneath.
siliconchip.com.au
January 2006 91
Foot Controller
The foot controller is generally used to control
a bass drum sound. We show how to build a foot
controller for this purpose using an optical sensor.
An alternative foot controller is shown under the
Optical pad heading.
The optical pad is made into a plastic box and
secured to the upright MDF piece with M4 screws
and nuts. This also sandwiches the pressure plate
in between the box and MDF. The PC board for the
optical pickup is supported on M3 tapped standoffs
(9mm long) and held using M3 x 10mm screws.
The screw mounted in the pressure plate to
interrupt the optical sensor must be adjusted as
described in the Bongo Drums set-up.
The DC sockets are mounted at each end of the
box. The signal output is wired to the 6.35mm jack
socket that is mounted on an aluminium bracket. You will need to
make up a 6.35mm jack plug to RCA plug lead for the connection
between the foot controller and the MIDI Drum Kit.
The footswitch is made using the MDF panelling as shown. We
painted the assembly with black paint and covered the foot areas
with speaker carpet.
If you want to build your own foot controller, here is how to do it. The alternative is to use the information in this
diagram to modify a commercial foot pedal.
92 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Footswitch
The footswitch is a commercially made unit – all it
really needs is to have an RCA plug wired to its end.
However, the wiring supplied with the switch is a little
too thick for the RCA plug so is best replaced with a
single core shielded cable instead. Connect the wire
between the normally open and common connections
on the microswitch.
Parts List
1 PC board coded 01211053, 52 x 31mm
1 bulkhead plastic box, 65 x 38 x 25mm
1 Photo interrupter
1 1N4004 diode
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic capacitor
2 470W 1/4W 1% resistors
1 6.35mm mono jack socket
2 line DC plugs
4 PC stakes
1 2-metre length of single core shielded cable
1 6.35mm mono plug
1 RCA line plug
1 65 x 120mm length of 1mm aluminium
1 20 x 40mm length of 1mm aluminium
1 60 x 20mm 1mm aluminium
1 100 x 35mm sheet of 1mm aluminium
1 85mm but hinge
6 8g csk wood screws cut to 12mm
7 6g csk wood screws cut to 12mm
1 5g x 20mm screw
1 M3 x 15mm screw
1 3mm star washer
2 M3 nuts
2 M4 x 15mm screws
2 M4 nuts
4 M3 tapped x 9mm spacers
8 M3 x 6 screws
1 20mm long by 6mm OD compression spring
(from clothes peg)
3 15mm OD x 6mm ID rubber grommets
1 100 x 320mm length of 12mm MDF
1 100 x 80mm length of 12mm MDF
1 100 x 220mm length of 12mm MDF
1 65 x 47mm length of 12mm MDF
Parts List
1 footswitch (eg, Jaycar SP-0760)
1 1m length of single core shielded wire
1 RCA line plug
NEXT MONTH:
The final part – software – and how to drive it!
Miscellaneous
Black paint, PVA glue, speaker carpet, contact adhesive
siliconchip.com.au
January 2006 93
|