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Soldering iron tip preserverAlthough 60/40 solder melts at about 200°C, the tip temperature of a soldering iron should be at about 370°C. This is necessary to make a good quick joint, without the risk of overheating delicate components because the iron has to be kept on the joint for too long. Unfortunately, at this temperature, the tip oxidises rapidly and needs constant cleaning. That's where this circuit can help - it keeps the soldering tip to just below 200°C while the iron is at rest. Oxidisation is then negligible and the iron can be brought back up to soldering temperature in just a few seconds when needed. In addition, normal soldering operation, where the iron is returned to rest only momentarily, is unaffected because of the thermal inertia of the iron. Two 555 timers (IC1 & IC2) form the heart of the circuit. IC1 is wired as a monostable and provides an initial warm-up time of about 45 seconds to bring the iron up to temperature. At the end of this period, its pin 3 output switches high and IC2 (which is wired in astable configuration) switches the iron on - via relay RLY1 - for about one second in six to maintain the standby temperature. The presence of the iron in its stand is sensed by electrical contact between the two and some slight modification of the stand may be necessary to achieve this. When the iron is at rest, Q1's base is pulled low and so Q1 is off. Conversely, when the iron is out of its stand, Q1 turns on and pulls pins 2 & 6 of IC2 high, to inhibit its operation. During this time, pin 3 of IC2 is low and so the iron is continuously powered via RLY1's normally closed (NC) contacts. Note that the particular soldering iron that the circuit was designed for has its own 24V supply transformer. Other irons may need different power supply arrangements. The warm-up time and standby temperature can be varied by altering R2 and R5, as necessary. Alan March,
Simple card access control systemThis card access control system for medium-to-low security situations can be built at a relatively low cost and is more fun than a keypad. The circuit can be driven by the smallest of microcontrollers, say a PIC12C508A, and only requires simple assembly code to run. The concept is quite simple - a cardboard or plastic card (with holes punched) is slipped between two PC boards separated by a plastic spacer. This spacer also helps to guide the access card into position. When the access card is inserted all of the way to the back of the spacer, it hits a small rubber mat attached to a flexible metal clip which makes up one half of the "card present" switch. This flexible clip is forced against a small metal contact plate, resulting in the trigger line going low. This tells the microcontroller that a card is present. The microcontroller can then pulse the clock line while reading the sense line. A low signal on the sense line indicates the presence of a hole. If you are using the unit in bright sunlight, it is advisable to read the sense line with an A/D converter input, to allow for variations in ambient light conditions. If no A/D converter input is available, a simple op amp input circuit would work just as well. The circuit uses infrared LEDs and phototransistors, while the access card is covered with IR lens material on each side. This not only minimises problems with ambient light but also means that the holes in the access card are hidden (infrared lens material is readily available in sheets from Farnell Electronics). IC1, a 4017B decade counter, counts up on every clock cycle
(only one pin high at any time) from the microcontroller. Its outputs in turn
drive LEDs The sense line is fed back to the microcontroller. If the correct sequence of phototransistors turns on, the microcontroller turns on transistor Q1 to activate the relay and the door strike mechanism. David Kadow,
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