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Crook electric wiringI couldn't agree more with the sentiments expressed in your Publisher's Letter (March 2003) about dodgy electrical wiring. We have just had a 3-storey building refurbished and rewired by professional electricians. To describe their work as a "pigs' breakfast" would be too good for it. This is fast becoming the rule rather than the exception in jobs I've seen lately. In days of old, sparkies were required to be relatively neat in their work, however work standards seem to have started to really go down hill since late 1998. In this particular project, wires are held up above the new suspended ceiling via disused old suspended ceiling eyes, clipped every metre if you're lucky. TPS cable is hanging down to the 3-pin troffer lighting sockets which are slung in mid-air. On the upper floor, the cabling runs above the safety wire mesh that is below the insulated sarking under the roof. Not to mention the new TPS building cable that has about half the insulation of the old stuff! Those unlicensed people such as electronics technicians, etc who know how to change a power point or run an additional circuit are in danger of being found out simply by the fact that their work is too neat and tidy! Where's this all going to lead? I don't know but one thing is for sure and that is that no pro sparkie can bleat about unsafe wiring practices if what I've seen recently is what is now the normal standard produced by these people. Name supplied and withheld at writer's request.
ETI-480 amplifier a faithful old dogIn your articles on the SC480 (January & February 2003) you say that the ETI-480 Amplifier Module was a "dog" of an amplifier and that it was not a good performer, but there is another view. I'm a bass guitarist and since 1986 I've used a pair of ETI-480s running in bridge mode. Two dogs are usually better than one and this is definitely true with these modules. Together they run a full 100W RMS into an 8W heavy-duty 38cm loudspeaker. I've done many hundreds of gigs with them; they've been faithful companions and have never let me down. However, they do develop a bit of a smell during the warmer months. I was a bit stingy with heatsinks and the specified 1W rating was never going to be sufficient for R16 and R17, the 33Ω emitter resistors for the driver transistors. I've since replaced them with two 68Ω 1W units in parallel. Several years ago, I tried upgrading to a higher-powered MOSFET module and a much bigger power supply but it sounded too pure, too tight, too dead for my setup. It felt like trying to play golf with a set of clubs whose shafts had no "whip". The MOSFET module works much better for vocal PA and I'm still using the 480s for bass. I would really love to build the new SC480 module but there's every chance that the old dogs will outlive their master. Neil Hobbs,
Exploding motherboard capacitors hard to replaceI just read your article about exploding motherboard capacitors in the May 2003 issue. Unfortunately, it came a little too late. I manage the network for an Internet cafe and I recently diagnosed the capacitor problem on 20 of our motherboards. I read your article and you have covered the problem but not enough about the solution. You mentioned the low ESR capacitors you can buy from RS but unfortunately they were all too big to fit on these boards (about 20 capacitors need replacing on each board). I imagine that most motherboards will have a similar problem as everything is squashed in as close as possible. After many interstate phone calls and confused sales people, I found a suitable replacement. The Rubycon ZLH series provide a range of 1500μF capacitors which I managed to be able to get in an 8mm package from Tenrod Australia - see www.tenrod.com.au for contact details. The capacitors cost 60c each. If enough people need these replacements Tenrod may reduce their minimum order quantities to make it a bit more accessible to someone with just one motherboard to fix. Hope this helps! Aaron Russell,
It never rains but it boresI found your PIC-based Rain Gauge in the September 2000 issue an interesting project, though I didn't build it for its original use. I wanted a controller for a bore pump. The pump has to fill two large tanks, if possible using only off-peak electricity. An added complication is that the pump can only run for six hours at a time otherwise the bore may run dry. If more than six hours pumping is required, it has to run during the day as well as at night. Using the PIC gave me the opportunity to log the time that the pump took each day to fill the tanks and store this information for 61 days, as in the Rain Gauge. In modifying and adding to the program, I found the source code very easy to follow, well commented and clearly laid out. In the hardware, you kindly left me one output bit unused that I required to control the pump, that 7th segment in the bargraph. Thanks for a great project. Keith Gooley, Project discrimination against front-wheel drive carsAs a subscriber and reader of your magazine over the years it has come to my attention that us owners of front-wheel drive cars (which these days are probably the majority) are being discriminated against when you publish automotive projects. Any project is usually only designed and described for a tail-shafted car; ie, rear-wheel drive. I realise it is more difficult to put sensors on front-wheel drive cars but as there are not that many rear-wheel drive cars on the market any more maybe you could put your thinking caps on and come up with a solution. The latest project, the "Triptronic Gear Indicator" in January 2003, is but one example. Ray Draper, Comment: what a grievous accusation. We would never discriminate in such a way. In truth, while the diagrams may show a speed pickup attached to a tailshaft, exactly the same method can be employed with front wheel half-shafts, although it is more difficult. In any case, in the Gear Indicator article you refer to, on page 43 we describe how to use the speed signal from the engine management computer. Virtually every front-wheel drive car produced in the last 20 years will have an engine management computer. CRC 2-26 can catch fireI write in response to a letter about WD-40 in Mailbag in the March 2003 issue. I agree with John (don't use WD-40), that WD-40 is a penetrating oil never designed for electronic use. Conversely, I do not agree that CRC 2-26 is NOT flammable. I once washed the engine of my car and pretty much saturated the distributor, inside and out, with CRC 2-26 when the ignition got wet and the engine wouldn't start. Once it did start, within a moment I noticed a burning smell and a little smoke from under the (still open) bonnet. I discovered my distributor on fire! It was only burning for a moment and no damage was done except to some plug lead insulation, and a rag thrown over it soon put it out. Significantly, no other product had been used on the distributor except CRC and obviously there were no residues from previous servicing, otherwise the distributor would have caught fire beforehand. There is no doubt the CRC 2-26 ignited, yet subsequent attempts to ignite a little of the liquid with a match failed and the container does say it is non-flammable. My only conclusion is that it ignited maybe because the temperature or intensity of the arcing within the distributor was hotter than a match flame. I don't know. Importantly, many of the water dispersant type products sold for auto use are oil-based, particularly the cheap products from discount stores, yet while they may be marked as flammable, they give no cautions about the potential for the incident I experienced. Indeed, one such product I use is Australian Export WD Spray as a general anti-rust product and while the can is marked as flammable gas (which I suggest is incorrect labelling), it is indicated on the can that the product "acts fast to start wet engines". This product is distributed by Oweno Sales, NSW. Incidentally, I was once advised by a mechanic not to use these types of products on tools to prevent rusting, since they are hygroscopic (absorb water) and therefore will attract water in a humid atmosphere and actually cause rust, rather than prevent it! Peter Cahill,
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