Upgrading the SC480 amplifier module
I built a couple of SC480 amplifiers a couple of years ago and
they are still going strong and have never given any problems. However, I am an
incurable tinkerer and wish to upgrade the output power transistors.
I heard a report from someone who used MJL15024/15025s with
very good results, however I built the "plastic" version so I would need
something with a TO-218 case. Also you mentioned MJL21193/4 and MJL1302A &
MJL3281A in the original article. Can you recommend a particular transistor pair
as a suitable starting point?
I know the measured performance of the stock amplifier is
fantastic but I want to try a few tweaks. After all, that is the fun of DIY! Do
you have a view on changing the quiescent current? (K. W., Newport,
Vic).
The only transistors
we would suggest for an upgrade would be MJ21193/4. Leave the quiescent current
at the specified setting.
Old EA frequency reference kit wanted
I’m after a pre-loved EA kit and that’s the Low-Cost TV-Derived
Frequency Reference, published in Electronics Australia in the October &
November 1993 issues, by Jim Rowe. The kit’s PC board number is 93TVF8.
Ideally, I’d prefer a working unit in its case but a "dead-un"
would be considered. It’s part of my excursion into high-precision and digital
HF and VHF transmission techniques. It’s a strange world looking at millihertz
stabilities of TV carriers and E-layer ionospheric Doppler shifts.
Could any readers please let me know the pickup suburb/state
and asking price on 0411 232 734. (C. S., Beacon Hill, NSW).
Modification to PIR sensor lights
I have a surveillance system at home. One of the features of
this system is reliant on a sensor light and a relay that starts my video
recorder. This works well until we get a momentary power failure. Most sensor
lights have a feature that allows you to momentarily switch the power off and on
so as to leave the light on. To return to sensor light mode, you have to switch
off for about 20 seconds, then switch back on.
Is there a chance that one of your boffins could devise a
circuit to allow the sensor light to return to sensor light status after a
momentary power interruption? I would envisage an override switch if you wish to
have the sensor light work normally. In addition to my needs, this would save
people coming back from holidays and finding that the day they left on their
6-month journey, the power glitched and they’ve paid a bigger electricity bill
than otherwise and contributed to global warming.
It’s the simple things like this that drive me to buy and read
your magazine and I hope that this could "spark" an article for me to build. (N.
O., Moruya, NSW).
That is an
interesting suggestion but it would not be easy to implement. As you point out,
these sensor lights do have a drawback with momentary power interruption. A more
practical solution is to use a separate PIR sensor with relay output to switch
the security light.
Smart card reader is mute
I purchased and built the Smart Card Reader/Programmer project
from the July 2003 issue of SILICON CHIP but it
does not work. The unit powers up and has both LEDs lit until Windows loads.
Then the red LED goes out and the unit will not work.
I have tried it on three different computers with Windows 98,
Me & XP loaded and used several different COM port cables, all to no avail.
The several card writer programs cannot work unless the card writer works.
Can you give me some advice as to how to get the unit working
please? G. E., via email).
First up, note that
you need a "pin-to-pin" serial cable for connection to a free 9-pin serial port
on your PC.
Also, you mention that the project did not work with "several
card writer programs". We have no knowledge of the project’s use with any card
writer programs other than the one described in the original article. This was
IC-Prog, available from www.ic-prog.com
To test your completed project, use IC-Prog and follow the
steps exactly as given in the instructions. In our experience, the most common
problem is a fault in the gold card rather than in the project.
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Class-D amplifiers get hot
Recently I was in the market for a modest home theatre
amplifier to replace my Panasonic SA-HT70 which is rather large and clunky, has
an inbuilt and unhackable DVD player, and lacks any auxiliary input for the
internal surround decoder circuitry.
I was interested in a couple of very low-profile and
fully-featured JVC models and searched the web for reviews. Apart from some
negative comments about their automatic set-up features, the most common thread
was the large amount of heat they produce, even when idling! That put me right
off the products.
While browsing in K-Mart one day I came upon a Sansui SAN0310
amplifier complete with five surround speakers and a subwoofer for the princely
sum of $129.00! "Can’t go wrong at that price", I thought, and made my
purchase.
I left the original Panasonic speakers in place and connected
the new amplifier, taking immediate advantage of the coaxial and optical inputs.
The Sansui amplifier gives a good account of itself as far as sound level goes
but the lack of tone controls and the most bizarre "DSP" reverb effects I have
ever heard (why would anyone listen to a movie in a mineshaft full of
cotton-wool or in an empty cathedral?) make me sad when I think back to the
excellent Sansui hifi gear of the 1970s and 1980s.
Anyway, you do get what you pay for, so I’m not complaining
about that. What I do find objectionable is the large amount of heat the Sansui
amplifier (and apparently the JVC class-D units) produce all the time. Even when
‘Off’ it gets quite hot, too hot for any gear sitting on top of it.
When the unit is turned off by the IR remote, the power LED
blinks slowly – just what you need in front of your face when you’re not using
it. There is a power switch on the front panel which disconnects the power but
unfortunately all your settings for delay, etc are lost when you power off this
way. This Sansui amplifier will not have a long career in my set-up but will
suffice for the time being.
I have not studied class-D much but I assume that the heat is
being produced by the switchmode power supply, the class-D switching transistors
and the low-pass filters in the six power amplifiers. How can it be claimed that
class-D is 80% or so efficient when it wastes power so freely? This is an
outrage in these times when we should be conserving energy.
I’d be most interested to hear your views on this topic. (J.
R., via email).
If your amplifier is
80% efficient at full output, that means that around 40W will be dissipated in
the case when everything is going flat chat. But at idle, you could well have
15-20W being dissipated in the case and if there are no conventional heatsinks
on the outside or an internal fan, that means that it will become pretty
warm.
However, there does not seem to be any good reason why the unit
should still get hot when it is in standby mode. It may be that the power supply
it quite simple and does not have a low-power rail to run the micro when it is
"asleep".
Speed controller for a Go-Kart
I have built an electric Go-Kart for my two young boys. It is
powered by two 24V 300W motors, one driving each rear wheel via a 2-stage chain
reduction with the overall ratio chosen to limit top speed to about 12km/h.
In use, the motors easily reach their rated RPM even with an
adult aboard, do not blow the 40A supply fuse and are not overly warm even after
30 minutes or so of use. So I am satisfied that the motors are working well
within their ratings.
The speed controller used was originally constructed many years
ago using a combination of ideas from various "Electronics Australia" and
SILICON CHIP train controllers. The
controller was originally used with a much smaller motor, with only three FETs,
and was actually only used a few times.
When the controller was modified to suit the current
application, the output stage was revised to include a 4093 and eight FETs. The
FETs are mounted as two groups of four on two separate heatsinks but drive both
motors connected in parallel. Reverse is provided via a heavy-duty relay. The
idea of using the 4093 and eight FETs was based on information gained from
reading some recent articles in SILICON CHIP.
The Go-Kart has been used many times over the last three or
four months and is a "hit" with the boys but on two recent occasions the speed
controller has failed. On both occasions, it is the output(s) from the 4093
driving the FET gates that has failed. The FETs test OK and no other components
appear to have suffered.
As the same failure has occurred twice, I suspect that I have a
design problem. The latest failure occurred on a fairly hot day so the problem
may be temperature related. Can you suggest a fix? (A. C, Boronia
Vic).
As far as the
circuit is concerned you are correct in saying the 4093 outputs are being
overloaded. The outputs could be damaged in several ways. Firstly, the transient
current required to drive four FET gates at the same time would be quite high.
The second and the most likely cause of the damage is that the
switching transients at the FET drains can be coupled back to the gates
(capacitively) to cause 4093 output damage. Thirdly, the gates of each FET are
not isolated using 10Ω resistors (one resistor should be in each gate); the FETs
tend to oscillate at switch-on without them.
As a minimum, we would recommend 10Ω gate resistors for each
FET and a 12V zener diode between each gate and ground to clamp voltages above
12V. Further reliability would be gained by using the 4093 outputs to drive a
complementary transistor buffer comprising a BC337 and BC327. The NPN BC337
transistor would have its collector to +12V and the PNP BC327 transistor would
have its collector to 0V (ground).
Car radio noise cure
I noticed the letter asking for help with AM car radio noise in
"Ask SILICON CHIP", January 2007. The usual
cause for this is due to poor earthing to the car body at the antenna. ( D. A.,
via email).
Serial I/O Controller & Analog Sampler
I want to use the Serial I/O Con-troller & Analog Sampler
featured in November 2005 to monitor and control the charge/discharge of some
large batteries, a total of 48VDC at 700A.
I want to monitor both temperature and voltage and switch the
load and the charger during daylight and at night. To do this, I need to be able
to locate the temperature sensor and LDR remotely. Is this OK or will long leads
(up to five metres) cause a problem?
Also, what do I need to do to monitor up to 52V DC at the
analog input port (normally 25V DC max)? Do I use a voltage divider? I assume
software changes would be required in the Windows program as well but what about
the PIC code? (K. K., via email).
You should be able
to mount the LDR remotely if you use shielded cable for the connection.
Miniature 2-core microphone cable would be suitable. Wire the cable shield to
ground. A 1kΩ resistor in series with pin 3 of the microcontroller will help to
protect it in the event of static discharge to the long cable run.
The second analog input can be modified to accept 52V as
follows:
(1).replace the 330k&Omega resistor with 110kΩ.
(2).replace the 100kΩ trimpot (VR1) with a 2kΩ unit.
(3).Break the track between VR1 & LED4 (the ground
connection) and insert an 11kΩ resistor in series with the pot.
The above changes will give an input range of about 49V-59V.
You will need to modify the Windows software to get the correct reading. The
source code for the software is written in VB5. The PIC firmware should not
require modification.
Remote Control Extender Does Not Work With Foxtel
I have been using a Remote Control Extender as published in
SILICON CHIP, October 2006. Recently, I upgraded my Optus
analog TV to digital (using Foxtel equipment).
Initially, they installed a standard digital set-top box as the
IQ boxes were out of stock. Immediately, the remote control barely worked via
the extender, with maybe one trigger for every 10-20 presses. As soon as they
swapped the box over to the IQ, the extender stopped working altogether, with
not even a flicker from the receive confirm LED.
I have done a few tests on my Tektronix scope and found that
the original analog remote carrier was on about 38.17kHz. The new digital remote
is carried on almost exactly 36kHz. Is there any way to modify the circuit to
allow for the 36kHz carrier frequency without losing the 38kHz ability? (S. T.,
via email).
The carrier frequency can only be set to
one value at a time and so the Remote Control Extender may not work with both
36kHz and 38kHz remotes at the same time without readjusting the carrier adjust
trimpot VR1. You may be able to compromise with the adjustment so both remotes
(with 36kHz and 38kHz carriers) work by setting the carrier between the 36kHz
and 38kHz frequencies (eg, to 37kHz).
Ideally, however, you need two Remote Control Extenders to cover both carrier
frequencies.
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Regulated Power Supply For Amplifiers Wanted
I would like to suggest a regulated split rail power supply
project for audio amplifiers. The design should have an adjustable voltage of as
wide a range as possible but should be able to go up to ±37V and at least 3A of
current.
There are many audio amplifier designs which I would imagine
could benefit from the addition of a quality regulated supply, especially those
with a high continuous current draw (such as class-A designs). The main reason I
want a regulated supply is to get that extra bit of quality from the amplifier –
to lower distortion. I would have thought that it would be impossible for any
amplifier to have zero distortion (theoretically) unless the supply had a
constant unvarying voltage.
The design should be able to be used for amplifiers in the
small to mid-power range (say up to 60W) and perhaps the design could allow for
a variable number of pass transistors to allow the current capacity to scale
with the intended use. (P. T., via email).
We have already designed a dual-rail
fully regulated supply for amplifiers, in the August 1998 issue. It was used to
power the 15W Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
As published, it delivered ±20V but it could be made
adjustable, depending on the transformer input voltage. However, we do not
regard such a power supply as providing any advantage for most class-B amplifier
designs.
For a start, typical class B amplifiers have a PSRR (power
supply rejection ratio) of 100dB or more, over a wide frequency range. This
means that the supply rails can have quite large fluctuations with negligible
effect on the amplifier’s waveform and distortion performance. There is also no
advantage in terms of residual hum and noise from the amplifier itself. Provided
the supply voltage does not droop so low that the amplifier is pushed into
clipping, the fluctuations will have negligible effect. Amplifier designers have
been depending on this factor for decades.
In fact, there is a disadvantage in terms of power output. Any
normal class B amplifier will have considerably higher music power output than
its continuous power output (the ratio is referred to as "dynamic headroom") if
it is used with an unregulated power supply. That is why all commercial
amplifiers do not have regulated supplies.
Making the supply adjustable to cover a range of output
voltages also presents a difficulty because if the supply is to have a big
difference between the input and output DC voltages, it will need big heatsinks
to dissipate the waste heat.
Connecting PIR Sensors To An Alarm
I am a year-12 student at Ulladulla High School doing
electronics and I am about to start my major project. It is going to be the
PC-Controlled Burglar Alarm from the February 2006 issue of SILICON CHIP.
I have a problem with the PIRs for the sensors. They have a
positive, negative and two alarm terminals. By contrast, the PC board in your
magazine has positive, negative and one terminal for the alarm signal.
Does this mean that I put the two leads out of the PIR into the
one on the board or do I need different PIRs? (N. P., Ulladulla,
NSW).
Many sensors have four terminals. Two
terminals provide power for the sensor’s internal circuits and are often marked
"+" (positive) and "-" (negative). These two terminals connect to the "+12V" and
"GND" outputs on the alarm board.
The second two terminals provide "normally open" (NO) and
"normally closed" (NC) outputs. Only one of these must be connected and it’s not
important which one you choose. As described in the article, the NO or NC output
of the sensor connects to one of the "ZONE" inputs on the alarm board.
When running the alarm software, be sure to select "N/O" or "N/C" in the
"Configuration" panel to match the sensor wiring.
Converting A TV To An Oscilloscope
Have you ever designed a project that converts a miniature or
portable B&W TV into an oscilloscope? It doesn’t have to be fancy but just
has to have some accuracy. Would this be possible? (K. S., Adelaide, SA).
A TV CRO Adaptor was published by
"Electronics Australia" in the May 1980 issue. This is only good for audio
signals up to about 20kHz or so and is not calibrated.
These days, a much more practical approach would be to use our
sound card interface for PCs together with software available over the internet
to give a much better instrument. Two articles on this subject were published in
the August 2002 issue of SILICON
CHIP, together with a follow-up Circuit
Notebook modification in May 2003.
By the way, Dick Smith Electronics has a 10MHz single-channel oscilloscope
(Cat. Q1803) available for just $128.00
Notes & Errata
Programmable Ignition System For Cars Pt.2, April 2007:
there are several corrections to the parts overlays and parts list as
follows.
(1) the 4.7kΩ resistor shown to the right of REG1 in Figs.8-13
should be 47kΩ.
(2) the 10kΩ resistor shown immediately to the right of VR1 in
Fig.10 should be 47kΩ.
(3) the resistor immediately to the right of Q4 in Figs.8-13 is
47kΩ.
(4) the parts list should show 3 x 100nF MKT polyester capacitors (not 1). A
10μF 16V PC electrolytic capacitor should also be added to the
list.
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Warning
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains
power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should be considered
dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these
projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into
contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident
about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you
are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while
working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the
manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all
advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as
subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
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