Interfacing a Picaxe to the 45s voice recorder
I’ve built the 45-Second Voice Recorder featured in the May
2005 issue and it works fine. However, I’m trying to interface it with a PICAXE
08M and have encountered some difficulty. Should the output of a PICAXE be
enough, when toggled from low to high then back to low, to activate the
rewind/playback of the chip when directly connected to pin 23 (/M7_End) of the
HK828 via the 10-pin IDC header? Or do I require extra components?
My original plan had been to replace the Rew/Play switch with a
small relay, although I would prefer to interface more directly. (B. B., via
email).
It should be
possible to control the HK828 voice recorder IC with a PICAXE micro. A falling
edge on M1-bar (pin 1) initiates playback, so you’d set the chosen PICAXE port
bit as an output, idle high. You’d then pulse it low and back high again.
Experiment to find the minimum pulse width – 100ms would be a good starting
point.
Refer to the HK828 datasheet for more information. It’s
available from
www.honsitak-taiwan.com/list.files/list_pdf/hk828-2.pdf
High power 13.5V
DC supply
I’m looking for a project published years ago in SILICON
CHIP or "Electronics Australia" magazine. It was a high current 12V supply
using phase-controlled SCRs in the primary side of the transformer. Any ideas as
to when it might have been? (R. C., via email).
The project you
refer to was a 13.5V 25A power supply for amateur transceivers, published in the
May & June 1991 issues of SILICON CHIP. It
used a Triac in the primary of the transformer. We can supply the back issues
for $8.80 each, including postage.
Garage door
remote controller
I am building the Garage Door Remote Controller featured in the
October 2004 issue. On testing using the manual button on the PC board, the
correct response is obtained; ie, Stop, Up, Stop, Down, Stop, Up, etc. However,
when using the remote, I usually achieve Up, Down, Stop. It hardly ever stops
until it has done a reverse. Why is this so? The above tests have been done on a
small 12V motor not connected to anything.
Then, when I connect it to the motor coupled to my garage door,
it failed to lift the door up (it got up about 30cm) and simply stopped. I have
adjusted VR1 and VR2 in various ways to no avail. On a closer inspection, I
realise that the output current draw for the kit is not enough to power my motor
and lift the door up. Is there a way to increase the current output on the
receiver unit or do you have a better suggestion? (R. E., via
email).
It’s possible that
you have a fault in the RF module. Check that it is properly soldered to the PC
board and that the supply is 5V. If these checks are OK, you may need a new
module.
As far as the limit current is concerned, you can increase this
by reducing the sense resistors to 0.1Ω or by increasing the 220kΩ resistors
associated with IC3a & IC3b.
Enhancing The Video Enhancer
I refer to the Video Enhancer & Y/C separator described in
the August 2004 issue of SILICON
CHIP. I have constructed this unit and
found that although the adaptive digital comb filtering works well, the edge
enhancement does not.
Because of the low bandwidth (3MHz) of VHS recordings, the rise
time of the highest frequency luminance edges exceeds 100ns. The circuit
explanation for the video enhancement states "all signal changes which last
longer than selected delay lines will be cancelled out".
I have found that the output of the enhancer with VHS video is
essentially zero. The enhancer is bypassed during sync because, as per the
article, spikes would be added to the sync. The sync rise time from a VHS
recording is about 300ns which exceeds the length of the delay lines by a large
amount and would therefore not suffer distortion with spikes on edges.
I have checked the circuitry very carefully and all appears to
be as it should be. I would appreciate your comments. (D. M., via
email).
The length of the longer delay line in
the Y/C Separator/Enhancer was indeed something of a compromise, because the
full cable length necessary to give a good measure of enhancement to
low-bandwidth VHS signals was around six metres. This length was almost
impossible to fit inside the box, so we reduced it empirically to a length which
still seemed to give useful enhancement using the prototype.
If you want to achieve better enhancement of VHS signals, you
might care to run a short length of cable from the "DL2" terminal pins on the PC
board out to a BNC socket added to the rear panel of the box and then use this
socket to connect a suitable long length of cable coiled up neatly outside the
box.
The external cable would have a BNC plug at one end and a short circuit at
the other, of course. This external cable arrangement would let you experiment
with round-trip delay times and let you achieve the optimum edge enhancement for
your system.
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UHF/VHF tuner project for older TV sets
I have an old B&W VHF-only TV set sitting in my spare room
which I would like to be able to use if I could "upgrade" it to also handle UHF
and perhaps also digital as well as analog. My suggestion would therefore allow
for any old B&W or older colour TV set to be brought back into service.
My idea is that the project might include either a separate VHF
& UHF selector knob or an "up" and "down" button with an optional remote
control available for both versions. Also, if suitable "black box" tuner units
were available that would simplify the design, then so much the better.
Among the features of the "adapter" during the construction
process would be the ability to either preselect a VHF output channel or allow
the user to select the VHF output channel to be fed into the TV when installing
the unit. The unit would be powered via a low voltage plugpack and would be
located external to the TV as per the attached diagram. Since drawing the
diagram I have just noticed that the addition of a 2-digit channel display would
be required in the "up and down button" model. (P. M., via
email).
The solution to your
quest is quite simple: use any old VCR, preferably one with a working remote
control. It will tune over the entire UHF and VHF band. Just plug its modulated
output into your old TV’s aerial socket.
Reverse display for Speedo Alert
In your Speed Alarm kit (November & December 1999 issues),
can you tell me how I can get the display to show in reverse? (R. W.,
Wellington, NZ.)
The display cannot
be shown in reverse without changing the lookup table that determines which
segments are driven for a particular number to be displayed. This table is
located within the software. We have not published or written any revised code
for this although it is a very simple change in the lookup table to rearrange
the segments that are driven.
Deep Cycle Battery Charger Has Low Output
I have finished building the Deep Cycle Battery Charger
(November & December 2004). It all seems to be functioning but I have a
question.
The battery voltage reported by the unit seems to be lower than
what I measure at the battery with a multimeter. For example, the charger shows
14.2V but a measurement across the battery terminals reads 14.5V on a digital
multimeter.
As you can imagine, I am a bit worried about cooking some
expensive batteries. Is this normal or is there some further testing I can do to
find out if there is a problem? I did all the testing and test-point measurement
and setup as per the article and it all looks good. (B. D.,via
email).
The circuit was designed to compensate
for voltage drops across the leads. Make sure you used the specified length and
gauge of wire. Alternatively, you can slightly recalibrate the battery reading
so it is correct. So adjust VR4 a little for the display
reading.
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Motorcycle power for GPS unit
I use a GPS on a motorcycle quite often. My son and I go riding
in the bush and the GPS stops me from getting lost. I have a problem with the
GPS switching off due to battery bounce from the bike vibration.
I want to run the GPS from the power lead but my bike is a 1984
model with AC electrics (6V). I was looking for a voltage converter that will
step up the 6V AC to somewhere around 10-12V DC as my GPS will run from 8-30V
(Garmin GPS12cx). Would the 3V-9V DC-DC converter from March 2004 issue be
suitable for this application with some mods or have you produced any other kits
that would be suitable? (C. L., Ingham, Qld.)
The 9V DC-DC
Converter has a maximum output current of 100mA (ideally), which is probably too
low for your GPS. One possible solution would be to modify the "Adjustable DC-DC
Converter for Cars" (June 2003). Assuming a 6V AC input and 13.8V DC output with
about 500mA maximum load, the following changes to the converter will be
required:
(1). Replace the two 1000μF input capacitors with 2200μF 25V
low-ESR units (Jaycar RE-6330).
(2). Replace the 1nF capacitor connected to pin 3 of IC1 with a
680pF ceramic disc type.
(3). Replace the 0.1Ω 5W resistor with 2 x 0.33Ω resistors (1W
or higher) connected in parallel.
(4). Replace MOSFET Q1 with a "logic-level" type; eg MTP3055EL
or Jaycar ZT-2271.
(5). Replace D3 with a wire link.
(6). Using the specified wire diameter (1.0mm), increase the
number of turns on L1 so as to make one complete layer without gaps. We expect
that the toroid will accommodate at least five turns more than specified in the
construction details.
(7). Wire up a 2A (or higher) bridge rectifier (eg, Jaycar
ZR-1314 or ZR-1360) between the AC input leads and the converter’s 12V DC input
terminals.
After construction, be sure to adjust and test the unit on the
bench using a transformer and a dummy load. You can use the 6.3V tap of a type
2155 transformer (eg, Jaycar MM-2002) and a 68Ω 5W resistor would make a
suitable load (it will get very hot!). Adjust VR1 to get 13.8V at the
output.
Once the unit has been tested, the entire assembly should be
thoroughly cleaned and all components (apart from the 0.25W resistors) securely
glued to the PC board to prevent vibration related problems later. Depending on
your installation, you will probably also need to seal the case to prevent
moisture ingress. Spraying the assembly with circuit board lacquer may also
help.
You might also consider an off-the-shelf solution such as Jaycar’s DC-DC
Step-Up Converter (Cat. AA-0264) coupled with a rectifier and filter.
Notes & Errata
PICAXE-Powered Thermostat, Feb- ruary 2006: the reset
signal from the output of the PICAXE is coupled to the rest of the circuit via a
100nF capacitor, whose output is connected to ground via a resistor. On the
circuit (Fig.1), this resistor is shown as 22kΩ in value, whereas on the overlay
diagram (Fig.2), it’s shown as 20kΩ and in the parts list as 100kΩ. Although all
of these values will work, the correct value is 22kΩ.
IO Controller, November 2005: the Windows-based software program can
crash after running for an extended period – ie, when the logger reaches its
maximum 2048 number. This bug has been fixed and the revised software posted on
the SILICON CHIP website.
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains
power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should be considered
dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these
projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into
contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident
about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you
are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while
working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the
manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any
liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
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