Solution to interference with STBs
I am writing about Robert Parnell’s letter concerning
electrical interference to his digital set-top box, in the July 2005 issue. I
solved my electrical interference problems as follows.
The glitching on my reception was quite intolerable (every few
seconds), so rather than go back to analog I sought a solution – which maybe I
have. I have heard a number of stories of people in my area who are not using
their STB because of electrical interference. This issue of electrical
interference is rapidly becoming a major factor impeding digital uptake in
Australia.
I put an earth stake in the ground and connected it to the
antenna system signal ground, just before the distribution amplifier. It made a
huge improvement and I do not have quad-shield coax!
One possible explanation for the improvement is that cleaning
out the LF garbage in the coax braid has removed spikes that were sufficient in
amplitude to drive the tuner front-end into non-linear overload.
If there is any part of the VHF spectrum that you can filter,
then do this. I fitted a -50dB VHF filter (Kingray DPO-UV diplexer) and this
made a difference but I am lucky because all my stations are UHF-only.
The best general alternative is a triplexer (Kingray FL3BPMH)
that can be used to filter out all non-TV frequencies and any unused TV
bands.
Electrical trade wholesalers such as Lawrence and Hanson,
Middendorps, Active Electronics, etc sell 1.8m copper-plated earth stakes for
about $20. I located mine in the wettest part of the garden, minding any
underground gas pipes, etc. This was a shade-clothed fernery with a built-in
mist-spray watering system and it also happened to be close to where the TV
distribution amplifier is located. I also purchased 6m of some very heavy mains
(green-yellow) wire – the copper was about 5mm diameter.
I soldered the wire and clamp that comes with the stake and
soldered the other end to the shield/braid at a splitter just before the
distribution amplifier. Leave out the soldering if that is too hard but it does
help reduce the earth path impedance.
This arrangement almost completely eliminated audio/video
drop-outs, pixellation and "no signal" indications on my digital tuner.
I would not recommend using the mains earth for the antenna as
this is very "dirty" and makes matters worse.
Those people with STBs that run extremely hot might also
benefit from my clean earth idea as the problem is eliminated if you don’t have
isolated TV outlets. Before I earthed my antenna it "measured" 2000V! This is
fairly common, not usually dangerous and is caused by leaky TV sets but it does
cause tuner modules to run very hot.
Neil (via email).
Interference not the only problem with STBs
I read with interest the email about the digital set top box in
the July 2005 edition, from Robert Parnell. Having investigated digital
reception myself, and speaking to many people on the subject, I agree that the
analog system is unlikely to be shut down any time soon, if ever. I believe,
however, that one of the major reasons for people not switching to digital is
being over-looked, that being network programming.
Many people I know (including myself) are watching a fraction
of the television that they used to. In fact, most of the time now the
television set is off, unless I’m watching a DVD. The vast majority of what the
networks try to pass off as entertainment is absolute garbage and if you have no
interest in football or cricket (a significant number of people don’t, despite
what the networks think), there is not much reason to turn it on.
With these points in mind, why would any one bother spending
money on a digital set-up? Nobody needs to see garbage in high-definition, along
with channel logos and banners. Television stations have become, like most
companies, only interested in pleasing shareholders.
The government will have a hard time getting enough people over
to digital, until the networks are made to lift their game. I would not hold my
breath though.
Tony Joyce,
via email.
Photocopying is a cost issue in schools
Leo Simpson is totally correct when he registers his concern
(June 2005) about the rampant photocopying that takes in a whole variety of
industries. In schools, one core reason for this practice is the fact that good
quality texts for the teaching of electronics to teenagers are difficult to find
and some of them are ridiculously expensive, or aimed at the juvenile level (one
UK book I am considering for my classes is priced at $A149!).
There are heaps of electronics training manuals and more senior
texts available but they don’t "talk" to teenagers. Teachers are thus forced to
compile piecemeal workbook and copy masters for classroom use, adding their own
teacher-speak to explain the engineering concepts in novice terms. Everybody
involved in the electronics teaching industry is absolutely flat-out just
teaching and can’t find the quality time required to write and publish a good
affordable text for teenagers.
There are some tactics SILICON CHIP could
try, apart from justifiably hammering the copyright authorities. For example, I
want 25 copies of the excellent current series on PICs in schools. I really
can’t afford to buy 25 sets of the whole series to do this. It would cost
hundreds of dollars to do so and I would just be covering PICs. Perhaps
SILICON CHIP could collate them and sell
them as a series package and I’d gladly buy a class set.
Another tactic would be to include photocopying authorisations
for individual schools so that teachers who felt professionally accountable
could pay a yearly fee for photocopying rights. I’d certainly be quite happy to
pay a fee of $30 or so for this service.
Whatever happens, SILICON CHIP needs
the support of all educators in this regard if it is to remain the world class
magazine that it is. Don’t photocopy SILICON CHIP!
Simple!
Dave Kennedy,
Collaroy, NSW.
Welcome to a SILICON
CHIP convert
I must have been in another world to have missed SILICON
CHIP until now. I dragged wartime copies (WWII) of "Radio and Hobbies" out of
the cellar at the Scout Hall when I was "cub". It was still "Radio and Hobbies"
when I used to borrow it from the boy next door and when I started to buy my
own, it was "Radio TV and Hobbies". I absorbed the change to "Electronics
Australia" and later on, on the Council of IREE, I worked with such luminaries
as Neville Williams and Neville Thiele.
I had never been a very regular subscriber to "EA" or its
predecessors, almost always buying it from the newsagent on a regular basis.
Then I began to miss it but try as I might, I couldn’t find a replacement.
Recently I have been conserving a 1930s radio chassis and my net search for bits
led me to an email address for a previous "EA" staffer. Next step: SILICON
CHIP!
Now I am a subscriber and I have just got my first issue. I
feel like I am back home! It’s a wonderful feeling.
It is interesting to note that I had picked up SILICON
CHIP editions twice at the newsagent but thought "Naah!" It was the list of
topics on the website that showed me that SILICON CHIP is what
I have been looking for and now I am back in familiar territory. Thanks – it’s a
great magazine.
Ross Tester’s July article on "WiFi", particularly his comments
on page 12 about possible illegality of sharing communications with the "NDN",
brought back some interesting memories. I couldn’t help but think how
legislators, once having forbidden something, are reluctant to relinquish
control. Ross probably does not remember the "Wireless License" every house had
to have.
My mother used to freak out if the "wireless licence" was a day
overdue. It was a hurried walk to the Post Office to buy a new one. Inspectors
could knock on your door at any time, and they did, to check that you were not
listening to an unlicensed radio. Can you imagine it? So an extension speaker
across the fence to let the "poor old dear next door" keep a check on the fate
of her son away "at the war" was a breach of your licence and a loss of
revenue.
All that has gone, and good riddance. But I suspect that only
the licence requirement was revoked, with the "sharing with a neighbour" part of
the Act left untouched. Ahh! – the seduction of legislative power.
Max Williams,
Ringwood, Vic.
Using a Train Detector with Command Control
Could I suggest that R.S. of Bundaberg (Ask SILICON
CHIP, July 2005) have a look at the Level Crossing Detector from the March
1994 issue of SILICON CHIP?
Assuming that he only wants to know where a train is, this
circuit could be used by placing the Hall Effect sensors so that the exit from
one section is the start of the next. Then use suitable LEDs on the track
circuit board which will light and go out as the train proceeds around the
track.
The only problem I have with this setup is the magnet attached
to the underside of the wagons (see page 43, March 1994 issue). If you use
magnetic decoupling with magnets between the rails, trains come to a sudden halt
at times and wagons can derail when the two magnets come together.
I use miniature glass magnetic reed switches (Jaycar SM-1002)
set between tracks at just below rail level and ferrite magnets (Jaycar LM-1616)
cut in halves and suitably fixed on edge under the wagon.
I am sure the Hall Effect pickups could be easily changed to
reed switches.
N. J. Guy,
Cohuna, Vic.
Coolmaster circuit not energy-efficient
I am the author of the "ultra-efficient fridge" article in
Jan/March "Renew" magazine, issue 90.
I got your SILICON CHIP
magazine and read about your "Coolmaster" freezer thermostat kit. Perhaps you
and your readers may be interested in its shortcomings.
(1). The "Triac" part (that switches 240V to the freezer
compressor) consumes at least 0.85W for 24 hours; ie, about 20 watt-hours per
day when the fridge becomes connected to its socket.
(2). The "plugpack" that you suggest using to power the 9V
electronics, if carefully chosen, will consume about 1.7W for 24 hours; ie,
about 40 watt-hours a day.
Hence, the power consumption of your thermostat alone (with
fridge connected but not working) is about 60Wh a day. Now, you may remember
that the entire fully working fridge with my thermostat consumes only about
100Wh a day. Can you see how mediocre your thermostat really is?
It seems that you have never been exposed to living with
limited energy resources. You haven’t even noticed the challenge of zero-standby
power consumption.
The thermostat that I currently use for my fridge has zero
standby 240V power consumption, essential for power-sensing inverters and people
who can use every bit of saved energy that they generate.
It consumes about 70mA from a NiMh battery to monitor the
fridge temperature and has a built-in fast battery charger that tops up the
battery when the compressor is turned on (about two minutes per hour), so that
the entire system can work for many years on one battery.
Please let me know if you are interested to publish, test or
improve my version of the thermostat.
Dr Tom Chalko,
Senior Scientist,
Scientific Engineering Research Pty Ltd,
Mt Best, Vic.
Comment: it is true that the Triac does dissipate about a watt
but only when it is turned on and since it is in series with the fridge, it does
not add anything to the overall power drain.
As far as the plugpack is concerned, it does draw power
constantly as you say but our approach was intended to enable readers to easily
convert a fridge without having to modify its internal wiring. As such, it can
be changed back to normal operation at any time.
Our circuit was designed in the knowledge that many people have
unused refrigerators or freezers and these can be converted, to wine-coolers or
fridges respectively, as outlined in the article.
It was not intended to be ultra-efficient as your approach
undoubtedly is, although our approach does substantially reduce the power
consumption of any fridge.
Odd Panasonic S-video behaviour
We recently sold a popular infrared remote-controlled AV
switcher to a customer at Glen Innes for the purpose of switching audio and
S-video from his DVD player, digital STB and satellite STB, to his Panasonic
TX-68P100Z which is a large flat-screen model about four or five years old.
All these sources worked just fine with the Panasonic on an
individual basis but with the switcher in circuit the customer reported that the
set would automatically switch to 16:9 format and stubbornly refused to stay put
at 4:3.
I tested a sample switcher before offering them for sale and am
aware of a DC offset on all the video outputs (composite, luma and chroma) of
about 0.5V across a 75Ω load. It seemed to me that this DC offset might be the
culprit but why? I made a little box with two S-video connectors and isolating
capacitors (470μF non-polarised) in series with the luma and chroma and sent it
off.
It didn’t work as expected though. The format switching stayed
at 4:3 but the picture was now unwatchable, with gross distortion and
over-saturated colour. How bizarre!
I contacted Panasonic at Belrose and a few emails flashed back
and forth to an engineer there. Apparently, the set has an automatic format
switching feature which is controlled by a DC offset on the chroma signal. I was
unable to extract any specific information about this feature which Panasonic
refer to as "S2 switching" and I was also unable to find out if there are any
other features controlled in a similar manner (are there S1/S3/Sx?), the voltage
levels, pulse widths, etc.
Perhaps the Panasonic service manual has some details (who
knows?) but I was not inclined to spend the money to find out. I think that
Panasonic could make such information readily available. We technical types need
to know about "features" like this. The engineer did reveal that they requested
the feature, apparently popular in Europe, be disabled in Australian sets but
the cost for modified versions was too great.
Anyway, I retrieved the box from Glen Innes, connected the Y
(luma) signal straight through, put a 100nF MKT capacitor in series with the C
(chroma) signal and sent it back to our customer who reported a success! This
was because, as you would know, the chroma is a symmetrical AC signal at 4.43MHz
(or 3.58MHz for NTSC), so the average DC level is 0V but what about the
luma?
What about AC-coupled outputs? Why did the Panasonic set
totally lose control of AC-coupled video? Surely they clamp the luma. Do they
use the luma for any tricky controlling? I dunno!
The problem is this: I see DC offsets on the outputs of a lot
of recent equipment from Asia. I guess they are unaware of this S2 switching
feature too. The engineer at Panasonic did tell me that other manufacturers have
the same features in their equipment, citing Sony, Philips, NEC, and Toshiba as
examples. He likened it to the fast blanking used in SCARTs but that is a
different sort of feature as far as I know, used for keying in RGB graphic
overlays such as external teletext or picture-in-picture, etc.
Maybe there is that sort of functionality but I can’t seem to
find anything on the web or in my reference books. There are implications for
manufacturers of active switchboxes and distribution amplifiers, etc. Maybe the
TV servicing fraternity may be aware of the details. There might even be scope
for a project that exploits these features. I know I would be fascinated to find
out about it.
Joe R,
via email.
Right and wrong way to wire a 3-pin plug
I was studying the photographs on page 42 of the Coolmaster
article in the June 2005 issue and I noticed that the socket has been wired at
the wrong end of the cable. It appears to me that the Neutral/Earth conductors
are crossed, even though the socket is no doubt wired correctly.
This is the "wrong" way to wire a 3-pin mains plug & socket. Here, the plug and socket have been wired to the wrong ends of the cable, so that the wires have to cross each other to reach their correct terminals.
It is the lay of the cable that is my real concern. To
demonstrate, I have made up two short extension leads which have correct and
incorrect ("wrong" end of cable) cable lay. Both are wired in accordance with
the details provided by HPM.
Please note that in the "correct lay" extension cable, none of
the conductors "crosses" any of the others to reach their correct positions on
the plug top or socket. Also, note the distance (2-3mm) from the opaque plastic
of the plug/top socket to the other insulation of the 3-core cable.
And this is the correct way - by reversing the direction of the mains cable, the Active, Neutral & Earth wires can be run to their correct terminals without crossing each other.
I had no difficulty in making the connections and assembling
the plug top and socket. Ray Smith, Hoppers Crossing, Vic.
Comment: you make an interesting point and one that we have not
considered before. While it makes no difference to plug safety it possibly does
make the job of wiring plugs and sockets a little easier – and it looks
neater!
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