AC voltages more dangerous
I wish to bring to your notice a boo-boo in the November 1999
Mailbag letter from Jonathon Waller. He maintains that the danger from a DC
electric shock is greater than a shock from the same voltage on AC. He goes on
to say that this is because AC tends to throw the person away, while DC tends to
paralyse the muscles, making it difficult for the victim to escape the
shock.
Now this is a very dangerous boo-boo because it is the exact
opposite: DC tends to throw the person off or away and AC paralyses the
victim.
Please check on this and you will find I am correct. Now don’t
get me wrong; they are both dangerous but AC is more so. Having been brought up
on DC power supplies and having had a belt or two from DC, if it has been AC
possibly I would not be here today.
The other item I would like to comment on refers to the use of
alternative power when connected to the grid and there is a power failure. Do as
most rural families do: invest about $1200 - $1400 on a 5kVA engine-driven power
plant and you can run the full house from it. Rural areas do have quite a few
blackouts, sometimes for days, and the 5kVA plant is the most practical
alternative.
Keith Lang,
Esperance WA.
Solar regulators not expensive
I read with great interest your feature on a solar panel
regulator in the December 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP. Although I get great
pleasure from constructing kits myself, I feel that this project needs some
consideration. I wish to point out a few things mentioned in your article that
need highlighting.
First, the article says that solar regulators are
expensive. This is NOT true. The cost of a solar regulator is only a very
small part of the overall system cost. Take for example the BP solar panel
featured in the article, with a recommended retail price of $795. Although we
sell many of these panels, a system usually consists of several of these and
sometimes more than a dozen or so. This is expensive indeed, not to mention the
cost of quality battery storage, which can be around the same.
Secondly, 5A current capability is all but useless except for
the hobbyist, which is probably who you are targeting anyway.
Thirdly, there are no current draw figures for the featured
regulator. By using a relay, I guess that it is reasonably high, compared to
commercially available units. The reason I say this is because when using solar
energy, especially on small systems, such as this regulator would have been
designed for, you need to be aware of ALL loads, including the regulator.
For example, if the regulator is drawing 100mA on standby, this
will equate to 2.4 Amp-hours per day (24 hours) at 12V. This will require a 12W
solar panel just to provide the power to run the regulator during winter, not to
mention the relay as well. This could be an expensive regulator if extra power
is needed to run it.
Fourth, the regulator provides no equalisation charging, which
is required for any system using multiple wet/flooded cells (ie, more than 2V –
a 12V battery has six cells). Equalisation charging is required because when
cells are discharged and recharged repetitively, they must be slightly
over-charged to equalise all cells. This will prolong the battery life
substantially. Also quality deep-cycle batteries should be charged at
14.1V, not 13.9V as this regulator does, to prolong their life. However, if used
with SLA batteries, this regulator will work OK.
Fifth, always check with the battery manufacturer
concerning their required charging characteristics, as you may void the
battery warranty if you are not charging correctly. This should have been
explained at the start of the feature, as some companies will not warrant
batteries unless they are charged with anything but a quality regulator/charger.
I believe this to be very important.
The solar regulator could easily have the current
increased, if the user does not wish to use the current reading capability
of the display, by increasing the relay’s rating and why not use the excess
power from the panel/s to do something else, such as run a pond pump or charge a
second battery, by removing R1 and dumping the solar power to an outside device,
rather than just burning it off with a resistor. You would need a diode in
series with the solar panel if charging another battery though, as the second
battery may discharge back through the solar array overnight, as well as
requiring another regulator.
Another idea: why not make it suitable for charging 32V or even
48V systems, by increasing C10’s voltage rating, and putting in an over-voltage
circuit before REG1, using a 47kΩ or 51kΩ resistor
(for 48V or 33kΩ for 32V) in
place of R5 or R6 and upgrading any other component that may need its
voltage rating upgraded (I haven’t looked at it too closely).
The most used solar regulator by us would have to be the P1.20
or P1.40, manufactured by Plasmatronics, in Melbourne. They consume as
little as 8mA, will switch up to 40A current and are programmable with up to
four-stage charging, with adjustable set points and time.
They retail for $245 (20A model) and $345 (40A model) plus tax
if applicable, so these are not expensive after all, considering the
features.
K & C Stork,
Solar Power Consultants,
Bacchus Marsh, Vic.