Items Covered This Month
- Masuda MGV28AV TV set
- Blaupunkt IS70-33VCT TV set
- Mitsubishi CT-29ATS(A)TY TV set
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My first story involves a typical customer type; easy to get
along with and prepared to pay what was necessary to solve any awkward problems.
The set was a Masuda MGV28AV, bought from the now defunct Brashs chain of
shops.
The Masuda was a Chinese-made set and I explained to Mr Bull
that there could be problems obtaining parts or service information. However, he
was eager for me to try; as I said, he was easy to get on with and prepared to
pay.
The problem was a very annoying intermittent brightness
variation – it sometimes became brighter when the set got hot. Well, the first
thing was to confirm that the set was exhibiting this fault and so I put it to
one side where I could monitor the picture. Nothing happened for the first two
days but on the third day, towards closing time, the fault began to show, the
picture gradually becoming brighter and brighter. I couldn’t do anything about
it just then, although I did remove the back and set it up on the workbench so
that it would be ready for me to tackle the next day.
The next morning, while waiting for it to misbehave again, I
tried accelerating matters by covering it with a blanket. And I rummaged among
my circuits to see if I had a diagram that might match. As luck would have it, I
found a circuit for a 1993 Teac CT-M715B, which is very similar.
Where does one start? I needed to make measurements consistent
with the symptoms so I started by measuring the screen voltage to the picture
tube (pin 7) to see if it varied when the fault occurred. When it did occur some
hours later, the voltage was rock steady, so I wasn’t looking at an EHT
fault.
Eventually, I determined that it was some kind of video fault,
because the tube cathode voltages were drifting lower when the problem occurred.
I even went so far as to trace this drift back to IC304, a TDA3504 which is well
known for causing problems (usually resulting in loss of picture). This was
encouraging but the job was still proving to be extremely frustrating because it
took so long for the fault to show.
Calculated gamble
As a result, I took a calculated gamble and plumped for
replacing IC304. Unfortunately, it wasn’t meant to be, so I spent yet another
day leaving a meter connected to pin 17 of IC304, the brightness control input.
This was normally at about 2V but under fault conditions it was all over the
place.
Where to from here? I followed the beam limiting signal path
from pin 17 via R355 (56kΩ) to R433 (150kΩ), then to the 143V rail and R403, C425 & D406, but these
all measured OK. I also checked D302 which links the contrast DC tracking,
before going on to check R322 and transistor Q302. Once again, I drew a
blank.
That left the brightness control circuit itself which comes out
of pin 3 of microprocessor IC601 and also involves pin 25, the mute line, which
controls transistor Q302.
I wasn’t getting anywhere – I knew I was in the right area but
I couldn’t isolate the exact cause. Finally, I decided to check the
sub-brightness control circuit involving VR301 but initially couldn’t find its
location. The reason was that it was, rather ridiculously, situated under a
large resistor which in this instance had been bent down so that it was
literally touching the plastic former of the control.
Naturally, the heat from the resistor had distorted the control
former, resulting in its function being intermittent when hot. A new control
fixed the problem completely and I also relocated the resistor so that it
wouldn’t happen again. The only tricky part now was telling Mr Bull how much all
this cost – plus the GST! But he didn’t baulk.
Crook Blaupunkt
My next customer, Bill Strong, is another reasonable bloke; not
the sort to whinge for no reason. He brought in his Blaupunkt IS70-33VCT
complaining about the sound – or lack of it. He was very apologetic in admitting
it was extremely intermittent.
He wasn’t wrong. I put it on the soak bench with the sound on
low while I hunted up a circuit. This set used an FM310.32 chassis with part No.
7663 700. The nearest I had was for IS70-31VT with part No. 7660 800 but it
would have to do.
The fault didn’t occur for the first couple of days but did on
the third day and continued to give trouble. Unfortunately, I couldn’t do
anything about it because I had my hands full with other more pressing jobs.
On the fourth day, I transferred the set to the main bench and
took the back off. But much to my frustration, it worked perfectly all day. By
the fifth day, I was losing patience with the set – I needed something I could
work with but it refused to play up. In the end, I switched it off and pulled
the chassis out, looking for bad connections and faulty joints but could find
none.
I switched it back on and tapped the chassis with a screwdriver
handle, then tried heating and freezing it. Nothing I did made any difference at
all. Fed up, I decided to put it back on the soak bench and switched the set off
to do this. But – you’ve guessed it – as soon as it was back on the soak bench,
it started playing up again.
By now, I was beginning to notice that, at times, the fault
would occur almost from the moment I switched it on until I switched it off. At
other times, when I switched it on, it would come good and stay good until I
switched it off. Bells were beginning to ring. Perhaps it was the way I switched
it on and off. I was using the master switch on the soak bench but perhaps it
was the set’s switch itself?
I tried switching it on and off many times and it did seem that
there was something about the switch that was causing the problem. But what was
it and more importantly, why did it only affect the sound?
I removed the switch (S601) and checked the contacts. The main
AC power contacts were fine but the standby or "Temp contact" (as Blaupunkt
calls it) was intermittently sticking on. This momentary switch controls T801
(BC548C) and the U WISC line P1.0 to pin 15 of the microprocessor I811 and, if
left permanently on, mutes the sound!
A new switch fixed the problem completely.
An overbearing customer
And now for a change of scene. Mrs Ruddock did not strike me as
a reasonable type and the screaming and demanding children she brought with her
only made matters worse.
Anyway, she arrived with her Mitsubishi TV set in the back of
the station wagon. She said that it wouldn’t come on and asked if I could fix
it. I said that I was sure I could – not realising that she meant immediately.
But having lifted the 68cm 46kg TV set into the workshop, all by myself, I
wasn’t in the mood to return it to the car when she made that point obvious. And
she reinforced this idea by closely following me into the workshop and standing
there expectantly.
Somehow or other, I had allowed myself to be painted into a
corner – almost literally. For lots of reasons (including safety), I regard it
as an unwritten rule that clients do not to come into the workshop. Yet here I
was plugging the set in and switching it on. And before I knew it, I had the
back off and was making measurements.
This Mrs Ruddock had powers beyond my understanding. Indeed, I
felt as though I was part of some Greek mythology, where I was being controlled
by one of the Gorgons – probably Medusa. I even tried to avoid Mrs Ruddock’s
gaze; after all, I didn’t want to be turned to stone!
Anyway, this was a 1993 Mitsubishi CT-29ATS(A)TY with an
ATMT691 chassis. This set employs a lot of advanced features and is a real bells
and whistles job. It even had a motorised swivel stand so one could rotate it by
remote control.
Apparently, the fault had been intermittent but had
progressively become worse until now it was completely dead. I had never come
across this model before and didn’t have a circuit. However, I did have a few
notes from a trade meeting I attended, at which this type of dual switchmode
power supply had been discussed although not in great detail.
I could measure voltages all over the place and all the fuses
were OK, so I knew this wasn’t going to be easy. But Mrs Ruddock was still
pressurising me to fix it now.
I located the standby switch transistor (Q9132) and was trying
to measure the voltage on its base when suddenly the set came on. At the time, I
didn’t have a clue why and could only conclude that my shaking hands had
accidentally shorted something. What’s more, the set now came on perfectly each
time it was switched on, with all functions working (including the
power/on/off/standby). And nothing I could do would recreate the fault.
Mrs Ruddock was initially pleased that it was working but
wanted more – basically, a lifetime guarantee was the kind of thing she had in
mind.
However, her slight sign of pleasure released the psychological
hold she had over me; the image of Medusa instantly vanished and she was now
just plain Mrs Ruddock. The spell had been broken and I took full advantage of
it.
Emboldened, I told her that whatever I had done could only be
considered temporary and that, sooner or later, the set would give trouble
again. I also told her that the only way to fix the problem was to leave the set
on test while I acquired the correct service manual (which costs $60), so that
the real fault could be tracked down.
She immediately tried to reassert control but failed. I had
won; well, sort of. In any event, I was happy to replace the back of the set and
put it back into her car. But I wouldn’t budge from my position and I didn’t
charge her.
That was the last I heard of the set until some nine months
later, when the set suddenly reappeared with the same fault. The lady’s attitude
had improved a little. She said that the fault had recurred within a few days
(just as I had predicted) and so she had taken it to a Mitsubishi agent. She
also complained that they had kept it for eight weeks before they fixed it.
I am also a Mitsubishi agent but I resisted the temptation to
ask her why she had taken it elsewhere. Nor did I ask her why she hadn’t taken
the set back there now. But I insisted on my basic ground rules – I must have a
circuit, time and space!
This agreed to, I proceeded to connect the set and see what was
cooking. Well, to begin with, the set came on straight away with severe hum and
picture distortion and with the picture jumping. Mrs Ruddock thought I was
splitting hairs when I mentioned these faults, pointing out that it came good
after five minutes.
I then asked her what the other Mitsubishi agent had done.
Their bill was produced, which showed they had changed microprocessor IC701
(M50436-566SP) but, in fact, they had done more. I discovered this when checking
the -30V rail on the power supply – capacitors C9F1 and C9E9 had both been
changed.
My insistence on getting the correct service manual had paid
off but it was irritating to find different voltages marked along the same
supply rail. This makes it difficult to be sure of the correct value. In the
end, I found that the 12V rail was significantly low, with the CRO showing
significant ripple on it. The culprit turned out to be C9E5, a 470μF 25VW electrolytic that was
leaking badly.
Because I had to take the board out to change this capacitor, I
took the opportunity to examine the rest of them. C9E1, another 470μF 25V electrolytic was also
leaking badly and I could see that most of the other electrolytics were in poor
condition. Before changing all 25 or so, I thought that I would confirm that the
two I had just replaced were the significant ones. I was gratified to see that
they were, the set coming on immediately with picture and sound.
I then set about replacing all the remaining capacitors and
cleaning up the damage caused by the leaking electrolyte from the C9E1 and C9E5.
These had even corroded the heatsink a few centimetres away.
Finally, when it was ready, I replaced the board and checked
the six main voltage rails (130V, 33V, 15V, 12V, 9V and -30V), all of which were
OK. With soak testing I had the set turned around within one week but received
only moderate praise from Mrs Ruddock. I guess there is no pleasing some people
but maybe she learnt something. Who knows, she might even call on me the next
time something fails!