Wire gauge for white LED torch
I’m currently constructing the white LED torch as described in
the December 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP. Unfortunately, I am in Perth and none of Dick Smith Electronics, Jaycar
or Altronics carry the 0.16mm enamelled copper wire specified for the
construction of L1, the 220μH inductor.
I was curious as to whether either 0.125 or 0.2mm wire would be
suitable and if so, whether any adjustment would be necessary to the number of
turns. (J. L., via email).
The
wire gauge is not critical. Use 0.2mm if that’s all you can get.
How to improve Commodore ventilation
I drive a Holden VL Commodore and the ventilation could be a
lot better. The heating/cooling/air conditioning fan in the cabin has a four
stage switch. (I believe all the VB to VL Commodores have pretty much the same
fan and the same switching mechanism). Can you design a circuit that could be
connected to the fan to make it run faster? I want it 1.5 times faster on
setting 1 and so on. (D. H., via email).
It
is possible but it’s not really practical and the fan would be a lot noisier in
any case. We’re pretty sure the fan motor will be a permanent magnet type and
therefore the speed control is basically just a tapped resistor in series with
the motor (it was this speed control which was subject to a recall of the VK
Commodore due to a fire hazard!).
So since it is a permanent magnet motor, the only way to make
the fan run faster is to increase the input voltage and this can only be done by
using a relatively high power step-up inverter.
Using a PC for video editing
As a keen video editor, I need to control my VCR with my PC
using the RS-232 port to drive V-LANC or the 5-pin edit control port on VCRs. I
hope you have some ideas on how to build such a project. (V. P., via
email).
We
have not published any article which is relevant to your application but if
other readers indicate an interest we shall consider doing a project to
suit.
Opto-electronic pickup wanted
Could you please advise on what brand of opto-electronic pickup
was used in the opto-electronic version of the High Energy Ignition article on
page 58 of the October 2000 edition of SILICON CHIP? And where can I purchase it? (B. G.,
via email).
We
do not know the particular brand of opto sensor. It was requested by a reader
who had a sensor with a common ground connection. The circuit can be used with
the Crane Cams optoelectronic points replacement unit. These should be available
from high performance automotive parts suppliers. Another circuit for this
optoelectronic pickup was published in the Circuit Notebook pages of the August
1988 issue.
As an alternative to using a commercial unit, you could use a
photo-interrupter from Jaycar (Cat ZD-1901) and make up your own interrupter
disk to break the infrared beam.
Protection components for mixture display
I have a mate who runs your bargraph mixture display
(SILICON
CHIP, November
1995) and he keeps blowing the chips. He tells me there is a fix for it you
released. So I offered to install it for him but I need to know if you can help
me with a description of the fix? (G. M., via email).
You
need to add three components: a 39kΩ resistor in series with pin 5, a 10Ω 0.25W resistor in series with the 12V
supply and a 15V 1W zener across the 12V supply after the 10Ω resistor. The 15V zener
clips off any spikes on the 12V supply. The details were shown in EFI Tech
Special which is available from us for $8.95 including postage.
Substitute for OP27 in 8-channel mixer
I was thinking about building the 8-channel mixer project from
your November & December 1996 edition. Can you please tell me where I can
get the OP27 op amp or can a substitute be used? If so, which one?
Also I don’t intend using microphones, so can the SSM2017 be
omitted and the line signal connected directly to VR1 on IC2a (LM833)? (E. Z.,
via email).
Dick
Smith Electronics have the LM627CN which is a direct pin-for-pin equivalent of
the OP27. And yes, you can link the line signal to VR1.
Gain controlled microphone preamp
I have built the gain-controlled preamp described in August
1995 for use in our church. On setting up, using two different microphones, the
open R1 is too sensitive with significant hiss and a tendency to run into
feedback but the next set of values in Table 1 are not sensitive enough.
There is a non-linear relationship between R1 and the parallel
C. I am not sure how to select the resistor/capacitor pairs. Would the pair
6.8kΩ and
.0047μF be
satisfactory to try as an intermediate set of values between open and the first
set of values in Table 1? (G. C., via email).
The
value of capacitance is not overly critical. You could use a trimpot for R1 to
vary the gain instead of a fixed value. A value of 20kΩ would allow variation in gain over the
range required. The use of a .0047μF capacitor would be a good compromise value. For a fixed
value of resistance, try 10kΩ and .068μF capacitor.
Reflector for beat-triggered strobe
I was wondering where you got the reflector used in the
prototype of the beat-triggered strobe described in the August 1998 issue. I
have built the PC board but after quite a bit of shopping around, cannot find a
suitable reflector around the size specified, except as part of a very expensive
CFL downlight fitting. Most start at about 300mm (way too big) or below
120mm.
I would appreciate any help you could give to point me in the
right direction. (J. V., via email).
Those spun aluminium reflectors used to be available as a part from
kitset suppliers but now are only available in the kit from Altronics. Have you
thought about using a large semi-sealed beam headlight from a wreckers? Might be
worth a try and would have the advantage that the front glass is integral.
Dead display in digital tacho
I have built the digital tacho featured in the April 2000 issue
of SILICON
CHIP. The
problem is that when power is applied only "LO" appears in full height on the
display (in the two centre LED segments). I have replaced the PIC with a new one
purchased from Jaycar but to no avail. Nothing happens when you press any
button. (L. R., via email).
Your
problem could be that the switches S1-S3 are oriented incorrectly. Try rotating
them through 90 degrees. Alternatively, you could be lacking a connection
between the two PC boards. Check the contacts between the 7-way sockets and pin
headers.
Adding memory to the Wavemaker
I enjoyed the article on the Wavemaker in the January 2001
issue – a very practical solution, well implemented. For our application, it
would be an advantage to have the capability of storing a single
computer-generated complex wave on the PC board so it could be played back
continuously. Thereby, the device is not dependent on the presence of an
external computer.
Can you advise, in general design terms, how you would approach
this modification? (P. N., via email).
It
would require a complete redesign of the Wavemaker to allow on-board storage and
replay of waveforms. As well as storing the waveform file in memory, you also
have to save the information regarding its length and/or replay speed. It gets
fairly complex.
A design for a waveform generator along these lines was
described about three years ago, in another Australian electronics magazine.
That design might be of interest if you do need a generator that can store the
waveform on board.
High power light dimming
Just recently the need has arisen for a high power (1200W)
incandescent lamp dimmer and delving through my library of SILICON CHIP magazines I found the
article on a Heat Controller in the July 1998 issue and a High Power Dimmer in
the August 1994 issue. Now I realise the Heat Controller is clearly not designed
for the job of lamp dimming but I am very attracted to the simpler design (there
is no transformer for a start).
Would it be possible to adapt your circuit to lamp dimming duty
by increasing the operating frequency of the oscillator or are there other
complications that would make this too difficult? (R. M., via
email).
The
Heat Controller cannot be used to dim lights although your thinking is on the
right track. The problem is that the mains frequency is fixed at 50Hz and the
heat controller varies the power by applying bursts of 50Hz sinewave to the
appliance. The minimum burst is one 20ms cycle.
So no matter what you do with the burst rate, a heat controller
like this, relying on zero voltage switching, will always cause really severe
flicker if used to control power to lights. However, if the mains frequency is
increased to 400Hz, as it is on aircraft, then this system of light dimming does
become practical.
LED displays for bright sunlight
Some time ago I purchased and built a couple of the Digital
Speedo kits, as featured in the November & December 1999 issues. They are
excellent. However, the car in which they are used has a serious problem with
reflective light and in bright sunshine the numerals are virtually
illegible.
I ignored this until I purchased a digital voltmeter kit, which
has numerals which are much brighter and very easy to read. I have no need for
dimming capability. So my question is, how can I make the digital speedo display
as bright as the digital voltmeter display?
I have disconnected LDR1, VR1 is up full, and changing the
seven 150Ω
resistors to a lower value has not helped. I think that changing XTAL1 may fix
the brightness problem but may change the readings. Can you help? (P. W., via
email).
While it may seem that the displays used in the speed alarm are of a
lower emission output compared to the voltmeter, in fact both projects should
have the same light output if the recommended displays are used. Perhaps you
purchased the parts from a different supplier?
Where the display is used in bright ambient light conditions we would
recommend using the sunlight readable HDSPH151 which produce 16mcd of light at
20mA compared to the 1.3mcd from the HDSP-5301 displays. HDSPH151s are available
from Farnell Electronics (Cat 264-313). Phone 1300 361 005.
Don’t drive speakers too hard
My two main speakers in my hifi system blew a midrange driver
whilst testing (at high volume). They are an Epicure model and were supposed to
have been rated at 100W. I was sweeping the amplifier with a signal generator at
50W RMS output, about 2/3 the amplifier’s capability. (I thought we had a
resonant frequency problem with the setup and was trying to find it). I ran the
system at 1kHz (clean and undistorted) for about 40 seconds or so and then it
fizzled.
Now why did the midrange driver blow? If the speaker is rated
at 100W, shouldn’t it be able to take 100W across the frequency range it’s rated
for?
Having said that, my problem now is replacing the Epicure
midrange driver. And what’s to stop it from happening again? (M. S., via
email).
Most
speaker ratings refer to normal program material so a speaker rated for 100W
would comfortably handle the full output of a 100W amplifier (not driven beyond
clipping) on normal program (ie, music) material. The problem is most program
material, even rock which has a pretty narrow dynamic range, still would have an
average power level of only a few watts, with the amplifier being driven to the
onset of clipping.
By feeding in 50W you were really going over the top and it is
a wonder you weren’t deafened. Even a couple of watts on sinewave over the
midrange is really deafening on most speakers.
The moral is this: if you want to test on sinewave, check that your speakers
are rated for continuous power. If not, assume they won’t handle it and keep the
volume down to the merely loud, otherwise you will easily blow tweeters and
midranges.
High efficiency fluoro inverter wanted
I have constructed three 20W fluoro light inverters, as
described in the February 1991 edition of SILICON CHIP. All perform brilliantly and have cut
power consumption by nearly 50% on our solar power system.
I have also built the 40W inverter, described in the same
article but this has not performed to expectations. While powering a 40W tube,
the inverter would not draw more than 2.8A when fully warmed up and the
secondary voltage measured up to be around 600VAC. When powering a 36W tube only
2.6A could be drawn.
The transformer consisted of 500 turns of 0.25mm enamelled
copper wire, wound on an ETD29 bobbin, for the secondary and 12 turns of 0.5mm
ECW, centre tapped at 6 turns, for the primary plus the base windings. The cores
used were made from F44 material rather than N27 stuff and were gapped at 0.6mm
to achieve the results above.
I tried larger air gaps but the inverter would only fire the
tube and settle drawing nearly 4A, with the tube glowing dimly. So I wound
another transformer, this time with the secondary consisting of 5 full layers of
0.25mm enamelled copper wire. The instructions aren’t particularly clear for
winding the 40W transformer. Winding 5 layers of 0.25mm will make 400 turns all
up.
I tried this transformer and ran
a 36W tube at 700VAC, with
the inverter drawing 2.2A. The transformer cores were gapped at 0.44mm, just
like the instructions said. The ballast capacitors are rated at 500VAC but still
work.
Could you please advise me on what to do to make this circuit
work properly? (N. R., via email).
It
is impossible to produce a high efficiency inverter for a 40W fluoro using
bipolar power transistors such as TIP3055s. Their gain is low and so is their
Ft which means
that they cannot switch efficiently at high frequencies.
The only way to get high efficiency is to use Mosfets and run at frequencies
of 100kHz or more. We produced such a design in the November 1993
issue.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ
a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should be
considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that
high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the
articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If
you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or
other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip
Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed
or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be
covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of
such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP
also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to
infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
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